Any idea when the next restock will be?

you seem to be pretty fascinated about the bad gas , yet you started the car up knowing about the gas, now you have it thru-out the fuel system and even the carb., what do you grow on the farm, pot?.

you're pretty lippy for a guy hot rodding a ugly butt, looked like a dodge comet, one of the ugliest cars known to man, v/w's are way out of your class range, and you could have taken out the entire tank with 4 bolts on top and gas Ine underneath. 3rd attempt to get one running you say, i shouldn't wonder........

Janko radio huh

Those old engines never had real high oil pressure.

I would definitely remove those tire chains when it’s not Rainey. Leaving tire chains can eventually ruin the Tire structure and tire replacement can be very costly. Yes, drain the engine oil and you’ll have to remove the Entire oil sump and scrape all destructive goo, then rinse out with gas or solvent. Might be a good idea to also put some diesel fuel into the engine. That should aid in the clean of of extra sludge. You might have to change the oil and hydraulic oils on a more frequent basis. Frequent oil drainage will aid to the live of the Tractor’s Engine. Yes, frequent oil changes is expensive but worth in order to protect the Tractor’s Engine and Hydraulic parts. Best of luck and Enjoy!

Interesting! Sherman’s Overdrive was introduced specifically for General Contractors - not for Farmers. General Contractors needed some speed for towing, hauling building materials and such going in between jobs. Thanks for your attention.

Great video thanks for posting, do you know if all Pertronix igniter 2 distributors came with adjustable vacuum Advance? I have one that’s probably 8 years old and it’s definitely adding way too much advance, but I can’t seem to get my Allen wrench to adjust it. It feels like there’s nothing there to put the wrench into.

My grandparents have a 1960 Allis chalmers d12 that has been in the family since my great grandfather bought it in 1972 or 73. Unfortunately as of today she needs engine and transmission work. It would be awesome to restore it. It actually needed transmission work for quite a few years but about 5 years ago it went out.so its parked.

Put it back together just like it is and run it it'll be fine

Dustin Jennings is a great person. Very knowledgeable. Met him a couple times. Plan on going back next month to visit him again

Jennings could fire up half an engine block that has been in a well for 100 years. Great channel.

Thanks Luke. I appreciate you.

Weld a heavy pice of angel iron to the crank pulley. Then you can break it loose without breaking the crank bolt.

Ask jamie from dead dodge garage hes the man or just mopar joe hes another mopar guy

You can put axle grease on your tap to grab most of the metal shavings.

Luke, what are you gonna do with Derek's clear coat? I guess you decided not to use it on this since it was sold so fast. Maybe the blue Ford truck?

Nice intake

why is your valve vent going to your charcoal canister filter?

fantastic video Luke, thank you.

I have a question that will either make or break my decision on buying this product. Does it come with a wide band or narrow band O2 sensor for the AFR readings?

Love it! Great to see "old men" still working...

they wernt around in 1927

How much do you add for a cold setting ?

this is just what I needed thank you!!!

In for a timing light. Appreciate all you do. Thanks.

I used spray copper coat on my C15 Cat engine on the thin steel shim. They are notorious for leaking oil. 300,000 miles, no leaks. Just a thin layer to the point I could not see through it, both sides. I believe that it would work well here also. Any thoughts from you old FE hands?

Still an informative video even in 2025.

Just found this after buying an old G-body with a ZZ4/Edlebrock combo. Distributor is hooked to ported line off carb. Having a hard time with the engine pinging bad, even with 93 octane. My climate control also has a vacuum leak and interestingly enough, when I switch to heater, my engine does not ping so bad. Waiting for some parts to fix climate control and then hopefully my pinging issue can be resolved. Thoughts?

Was that last line about dad jokes a hint at something there my guy??

Old School is in session.

Old timer I know had a fuel pump go out on his 1970 something Ford work truck back in the day. It was a Friday night and he was getting home period. He emptied his windshield washer tank and filled it with gas and put a hose down the carb vent and hit the wiper squirter button to fill the float bowl all the way home when the truck would stumble running the fuel bowls low. Can't do that with EFI 😁😇

Luke: That was fascinating engine archeology and detective work! We could not find the part 3 where you got it running and dragging. How do we find that?

Not sure I understand. I would rather have this car than a Galaxie. Now that you optimized the engine, swapping the suspension, brake and exhaust bits seems easy. Keep bringing them back, "Uncle Luke"! I have a '66 F100 with a 240 that I'm planning on recovering when the weather starts warming up.

What's the name of that opening song?

Waiting for the 64/64" inch big daddy wrench. How's that for accuracy?

Ordered this and a couple wrenches on the 22nd December. When would I expect to see those? I know it was a preorder and you calibrate them. Just looking for a rough date.

“…a proper foundation for a *Frantic Engine!”*

Never found a link to a seal with a flange?

I understand why your hands were shaking. Our brains seem to be programmed to accept a definition of "normal"; when this is categorically circumvented, your hands shake.

instructions for number 13 please.

Good deal, but why didn't you just run an orificed fitting out of one of your regulator out ends? McMaster Carr sells a 3/8 npt brass fitting with a .063 orifice for like 15 dollars.

When testing for voltage at the + terminal on the coil of both trucks. If no current is flowing through the coils because the Pertronix module magnetic interrupter just so happened has come to rest where it has triggered the coil ground interruption then like you say you would be measuring the voltage potential at the end of the + wire attached to the coil but if the Pertronix module has come to rest where it hasn't triggered the ground interruption and the ground is enabled allowing current to flow in the coil then by touching the coil + terminal and the - terminal or any suitable ground wouldn't you be measuring the voltage "drop" across the coil and any neg wiring and not the potential at the + terminal of the coil. The way to check is to touch the neg of the coil and like you say any ground and see if you get a reading on both or use the meter on amps and put it in series with the load and see if current is flowing provided it's less than 10amps or the capability of the meter!

Nope there's no tripod inside of this hay bale. LoL

I've ran into a few vehicles with relays integrated to circuit boards that have failed, requiring the whole module to be replaced, we don't mess with component level repair (but I do if I can confirm it and it's my own stuff). Chrysler of all people have a good work around for their failing fuel pump relays in the TIPM, an external relay kit. I'm confident you could make the same for this vehicle so when it is out of warranty and this does happen again it'll be as simple as intercepting a few wires and adding a relay and fuse holder to run the starter. Also shame on the upfitter for that sloppy work! Might be a good idea when there's spare time to go through their wiring and clean it up and repair it, cause if that's how they did that part you know the rest is pretty janky too. If you happen to read this and want copies of wiring diagrams I can get them from my work and pass them along.

Dude...never call / refer to your beautiful wife 'a splendid unit.' Did she pop you out of bedroom to couch, or spare room?😉

Now I'm going to ask, Luke Thunderhead 289, can you run the carburetor as normal when you are done tuning it as if you did it by ear? Or do you have to run the application all the time every time you drive it? LMK and I'll go from there. Thanks again for your help with this as always.

Hmmm, the whole faking it thing? Two scenarios: first, if I clicked this video to be the first time I watched you, I’d probably think that this jackass was pulling my leg. Second: I’ve been watching your channel a while and I’ve determined you’re pretty level, so if you say you got it running, I’m not fact checking. Questions I may have are more based on understanding the theory, but not questioning the practical experience. As far as the whole lawnmower carb thing… that’s awesome! It totally makes sense that it would work, as Science has described spontaneous reactions (fuel=power with the right conversion factor) and such. The Romantics would assign “soul” to the engine and say that it’s doing what it “wants” to do is make power when it’s fed fuel. Either way, it’s a fun experiment! Thanks for sharing your experiences with us the viewers!

That mix gas (pretty sure it’s a diesel-gasoline mix after your flame test, as diesel takes a lot of effort to light, and it has that milky sheen) might burn okay in one of your old tractors. My ‘41 J-D Model B has two tanks so that you start it on gas and then switch over to distillate and go to work. Near as I can tell, the nearest thing to distillate today is diesel and kerosene.

I hope they up production soon. These are hard to get ahold of.