Thanks for the question. The 372xp. In 5 years all it has required was fuel and impulse lines plus fuel filters. The 366 has required a few small repairs as identified in my other videos. Broken handle, flywheel key, fuel vent, fuel + impulse line and fuel filters.

Also, I noticed in reviews that the 366s have more issues than the 372xp.

@@bigjersobservations thx

Thank you for your question. MS361; Yes, the flywheel for the ms361 does not have a seperate key, it is moulded on the flywheel. G366; Yes they have a seperate key.

@@bigjersobservations Weird and thank you.

Thank you for your question. No springs are attached to the muffler. The only two things between the cylinder and the muffler are a gasket at the muffler and a cooling plate/heat shield at the cylinder.

They do run well, however they have required some work on them at times as you can see from the videos. Mereka memang berjalan dengan baik, namun ada kalanya memerlukan beberapa perbaikan seperti yang dapat Anda lihat di video.

Thank you

Thanks for your comment. Glad you found it helpful. Hope you enjoy that saw. All the reviews. I read about It looked pretty good, and it’s a nice size saw for sure.

Sorry so late with a reply, and thanks for asking. I have ordered keys from farmertec, and I have also walked into a hardware store carrying my flywheel and found a key that fit. If neither of those work for you, you could try a key from your nearest stihl dealer. The parts list wont show one that fits for the MS361 but they can find one for you if they choose to look. Good luck

sure does. tanks for your comment

Thank you for you comment. Answer: Unfortunately I do not have that mower with me. So other than trying youtube videos you may want to try this link: origin.kohlerenginesparts.com/oemparts/l/koh/61857843855d461d145af844/xt675-2075-husqvarna-parts Once you go to that site click on the page 07 starting Use it as a reference. remove the blower housing, about 3 nuts/screws. remove items 1, 9, and 4 as necessary. check for binding and free play as you go check the engine brake cable releasing check the blade under the deck after disconnecting spark wire/cable I am not a mechanic, just a tinker, but i would use this type of approach.

also try the shop manual: resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/14_690_01_EN.pdf pages: 32 and 33 is a good starting point.

Glad it helped

Thank you for subscribing and the question. I do not have a meter to measure them proper. My best guess is that there is about a 20 to 40% increase. If I am not wearing hearing protection I don't notice the volume change much but the tone is deeper and I can actually feel a small pressure on my ears after modifying the muffler. I always use hearing protection now.

Wow. Glad to hear this video helped you get her finally fixed. This was a little faster than doing those crank seals I imagine. Like you said, now you've got crank seals down pat, and a great running saw again. Mines 4.5 years old and I work the heck out of it.

Glad you found it usefull an thank you for the comment

Thank you. Excellent point. For future viewers that want to get to the point they can scroll to 5:05. Then watch till the 6:00 point where the saw has started. I didn't make it in 20 seconds, but I do accomplish the basic task of starting the saw in 55 seconds, without additional explanations of course. Thank you again

Your welcome, and thank you for your excellent explanation of why so many of us opt for these clone saws now days, and we want to get what we can out of them. Especially low budget, low risk improvements that we can do with the tools we have. Thanks again and have a good firewood harvest this year.

Thanks, glad you enjoyed the mod. Hope you enjoy yours.

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for your comment

I have always had to retune after modding. Thank you for your comment

Glad I could help, Thank you for your commnet

Thank you for your comment

Thank you for your comment

It’s better than 029/039. I saw you have a 291. The AV system is not identical bet very similar to the 391. So I hope that will provide you with a good reference point. Thanks for your comments.

Glad you enjoyed it

Good question.

Thank you for your comment. I could of showed readjusting the carb. They normally run lean after the mod if you don't adjust the carb. I spun the H screw out about 3/16 of a turn then finished tuning with a different piece of wood that was not shown. I also could of max reved the saw outside the wood before and between the cuts that are in the video so you could of heard the four stroke. Thanks again for helping to make future videos better.

It’s the low “L” screw you need to adjust, not the H screw. The H screw is only used to set your max RPM. Need to turn that L screw out a 1/4 turn or so to richen up the fuel/air mixture.

@@SG-ig2th Thank you for your comment. I just want to make sure that you understand that both the H and the L screws are used to adjust their respective rpm by changing how lean or rich a setting is. As you change the ratio of lean vs rich you are also adjusting rpm. The simple version is: the L screw is the primary adjustment for lower rpms, and the H screw is the primary adjustment for higher rpms. The objective rpms when using respective screws are reference points in the tuning process. For example: you may have a saw that is max rpm rated for 13,500rpm but due to altitude, bar length, temperature, type of wood, and a host of issues you may need to use the 13,500rpm as a starting point and then finish tuning for optimum cutting effect "in the wood". I recommend that anyone desiring a better understanding of H and L screw adjustments, and 2 stroke theory might want to watch the following youtube video by Craig Kirkman: Episode 43: carburetor adjustment screws on 2-stroke. Many excellent videos are available on the web, and this one does an excellent job with the use of simple yet effective graphics. Thank you again for surfacing an example of another small yet important misunderstanding.

same saw, same mod (mostly) and i did it roughly 10 years ago. saw still runs great. i adjusted the carb but didn't rejet

Thanks for the 10 year update!!!

Thank you

Thank you

Thanks for subscribing

Our pleasure Bob, and we appreciate the viewing

Thank you for your comment

@@bigjersobservations "thank you for your comment?!"Goood!

Did my muffler like your step one and an improvement. Doesn't seem to run near as hot. I am going to order another muffler and do like you did and do step two.. I check my jetting pretty regular with just a fine tune of a screw.I am not worried about warranty as it is out of warranty.I have the stock unmodified muffler but probably never put it back on.

I'm glad to hear that it is working out for you with the usual positive results. Good luck with your next step, and thank you for your comments.

@@dujeamizic3588 lmao u think i'm gonna take my saw to the 'service technician' and pay him $200 to work on my saw? I AM THE SERVICE TECHNICIAN

Thank you for your comments.

Thank you

Thanks for watching!

I hope it might help out. If you have no spark and because you have already tried spark plug, and coil, this just might be the issue.

Thank you for your comment. It should fit. I have never used Stihl OEM tank vent "# 0000 350 5800 Fuel Tank Vent OEM". However, They look identical and farmertec says that they are a direct oftermarket replacement, and they cite this Stihl part number.

I have this issue. Just bought a 5800 part. Have not installed it yet. Thanks for the video.

Yes

Thank you. Glad you found it helpful

Thank you for your comments Scott. You are absolutely right. Your comments caused me to look back at the running backwards video I made. When we diagnosed the problem it was a split key and as we took the flywheel off it was very obvious that the flywheel was loose. Nine months ago i received a comment from a viewer that had a bad running G366 and he had put 2 carbs on the saw., After watching the video he checked his saw and found a loose flywheel and split key. He replace the key retorqued the flywheel and now it runs fine. On other videos we have received comments about lousy runing G366s. I agree, everyone that owns a G366 might seriously consider taking the flywheel off, inspecting the key and slots and retightening the flywheel.

Thank you for your comment

Thank you for your comment. I am not familiar with your model. However I did a check at the Husquvarna support website and found 12 documents (manuals: owners, and illustrated parts lists, IPL).If you go to that website you may find the document you need with a diagram. The link I used was: www.husqvarna.com/us/search-results/?groups=DOCUMENTS&q=HU++725+AWD%2FBBC+ Good luck with your research.

I've had one for 2 years and all is well...did have to replace the gas line..other than that it's been great!

Thank you

Thank you for your comment

Thank you for your gracious offer, however no thank you

Thank you for your comment

Wow, I love it when I find out that I actually helped someone. Have a great day, you brightened mine.

Thank you for your comment

That's why i start on full choke until it "coughs" and then i put it in the run position.

Thank you for your accurate procedural comment. I tried it on that saw like others, unfortunately it just did not work on that particular machine. Thanks again for your input.

You bet is sure is. and thanks for the comment