Hey man, I’ve seen where sometimes folks forget to disconnect the O2 sensor when removing the exhaust for exhaust work and it damages the wires and they tape them. Not sure why someone would intentionally just cut the wires though as most of them disconnect pretty easy at the connectors.

Thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. These are pretty sensitive to rotor wear and developing a shaking in the steering wheel a much sooner than other cars I have…not sure if it’s because of the two piece design they used to save a little weight. Fortunately, decent replacement rotors aren’t very expensive now for these (RockAuto, FCP Euro, etc…) All the best ! Steve

Hey man ! Yep, this isn’t a DIY I’d want to do very often for sure lol. I had let it leak for years till it finally got too bad to tolerate. Good news is that it’s been leak free underneath since doing the job, but now things are starting to rust underneath as they don’t get constantly soaked in oil anymore from all of the leaking seals 🤣🤣. All the best ! Steve

Hey man, yep there’s usually a spider in each opening of the siding layers when they get really bad. The winter weather usually takes care of killing them, but this year they went crazy and were putting webs everywhere lol ! All of these as well as the ones that tend to live with the motorcycles are pretty much harmless outdoor spiders just looking to catch bugs as they aren’t the hiding type spiders. The Brown Recluse and Black Widows tend to like crevasses and dark undisturbed places to live so they can be found in places like in between the red walkway blocks around the house. For those areas, I sprinkle a granule type spider killer that prevents them from nesting in the cracks and dark places and haven’t seen any for years now. As for Part 1, it’s still being reviewed by the maker of the Web Dissolving stuff I sprayed on prior to killing them off with the Miss Muffet’s Revenge (it does have a pretty funny name lol !). Since the company provided the product for free for me to test, I usually send them the video to review prior to making it public on the channel in case they saw something I did wrong that might make their product not work as intended or mis-lead folks. The web dissolver maker for Part 1 was supposed to get back to me this week, but I haven’t heard from them. Hopefully they will get back to me and I’ll be able to make it public next week (it actually worked decently to remove the webs, but not quite like how the name describes it). Sometimes my reviews are a bit to honest for them which is why I like to show things like the time lapse video so they can actually see how well their product works as well…that way I’m giving an honest review. Have a good one and all the best !

@@StevesDIYs Thanks Steve for the reply and explanation. I enjoy watching your videos. You do a great job and many times you are funny with some jokes. 😊

Hello, my email is at the beginning of the videos just after the title screen scrolls 👍

@@StevesDIYs can't find yr email address ...can you reply to this comment? thanks again

Yep, since installing the kick starter on my 1st Gen bobber, there’s been no gear grinding for me…it does kick back every once in a while, but I think it mostly me being out of practice with kick starting one lol ! I’ll take that over the grinding gear noise any day ! All the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs Im bobbing my ‘81 xv750 currently and your vids are a terrific source! TY Steve!

Hey man ! I may be misunderstanding the question…if so just let me know, but these carbs use the vacuum generated by the draw of the air being pulled into the cylinder to pull fuel in as well through both the pilot (idle) fuel circuit as well as the the running (main) fuel circuit. As the butterflies are opened by the throttle, it allows more air in, which also allows more air to come into the air pilots which pushed fuel up from the bowl. There is also an emulsion tube that has small air holes in the sides that mixes air into the fuel as it is being drawn up through the main fuel jet. The fuel pump on these 2nd Gen Viragos (the 1st Gens don’t even have a fuel pump) only fills up the bowls and keeps them full so it does not actually force fuel into the manifold. There is a small deceleration pumper on the 2nd Gens, but its job is mainly to add fuel in when the butterflies close on deceleration to prevent the lean popping some bikes do.

@StevesDIYs I've checked the L shape rubber air hose, and I found that it has fuel inside. What is the problem?

@bahaanaji7823 for fuel getting back into the rubber intake elbows that are before the carb, these old carbs pop back from time to time if they are really well tuned and they will blow fuel back up into the carbs. It think the biggest reason for this is when the two carbs aren’t sync’d very good so one is getting too much fuel and then backfiring up through the carb which blows fuel backward.

@StevesDIYs OMG, that's really what happening right now. Thank you.

Hello, the ones I use are called Torpedo laser levels and are commonly used in construction (like the building of houses). Mine have magnetic bases so they will stick to the metal square tubing I strap to the rims to hold them.

Hey ! For the Mikuni carbs on these 2nd Gen Viragos, there isn’t an individual adjustment for each carb, but there is one in between the carbs that is used to synchronize them so they are pulling vacuum equally (thus both cylinders are balanced and not fighting each other). Some of these 2nd Gen Mikuni carbs did have a port on the bottom of the bowl just below the main fuel jet, but I think this was for an optional fuel bowl heater if the carbs were used on a snowmobile or something.

Hey man, yep, much of the wiring can be eliminated for sure, as the motor and TCI mainly just need the charging circuit and the ignition circuit to actually run. The TCI has one wire that is the spark defeat (cuts the spark to the plugs) which all of the safety switches go through so all but the Run/Stop button could be eliminated if desired. It might be nice to keep the not starting unless the clutch was in if in gear (or in neutral) which would require another one of the 4 relays under the seat was kept as well as the one for the Run/Stop button. I don’t have a bare bones wiring diagram available, but if you are a Facebook user and can join the Virago Owner’s Club forum, if you search “barebones” in the search field, I’ve seen a schematic that simplifies the wiring needed for a barebones bike wiring. You could probably start with that and simplify it even further. Hope this helps and all the best! Steve

Hello, I do have a Steve’s DIYs Facebook page, but it s mainly used to show information for questions that are asked…it does have Facebook Messenger active for folks to ask questions as well. For the Cardan joint making noise, if the bike has higher mileage on it, sometimes the flexible joint can go bad and would need to be replaced. It is not very difficult to do, but requires that the rear wheel and swing arm be removed to access the drive shaft and cardan joint. The only way to really know if it is needing to be replaced is to remove the swing arm so it can e inspected. Hope this helps a little and all the best, Steve

@@StevesDIYs Thank you very much for your help, my friend. I have inspected it as you have told me and the cardan joint does have some wear, but inside the gearbox it feels like there is also a misalignment. Is this normal? I have already checked most of the rear part for the noise that is already bothering me when riding the motorcycle. Thank you very much for your help. If there is anything I can ask you via messenger, have a nice night or day, whatever. Regards!!!

@juaniitocast hey again, glad to have helped some 👍. For the shaft that exits the motor gear box, it should not have any noticeable movement as it has a very larger bearings that supports the shaft inside the motor. You may hear some gear noise if the shaft is turned one way and then the reverse, but the shaft should not have any side to side movement. The long shaft that goes to the rear hub should be able to move around which is normal. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve.

@@StevesDIYs Hi Steve, thanks for your help, it’s really nice to have your help, everything you’ve explained to me previously is correct, the shaft that comes out of the gearbox acts just as you’ve explained, everything is in order as you indicate and I have to replace the cardan joint. What a joy to have a good mentor with this type of motorcycles, I would love to have someone like you close by in this country with that knowledge, unfortunately that’s not the case, there are almost few of us who love these motorcycles here in Guatemala, I really appreciate your help, I specialize in the electrical side of vehicles and machines and these steel horses! Greetings, friend Esteve! Sincerely, Juan Manuel Castillo from Guatemala.

Hey again, the last NOS (New Old Stock) original ones I bought had rotten foam in them even though they had never been on a bike so by now, I think most all of them will be bad. I’m actually setting up to make some replacement ones that have a replaceable filter element that will be available soon out on my Stevesdiys eBay account. I’ll add a link to the listings to the description of this and the other video once they are listed.

@@StevesDIYs yes Steve I watched your video on the N O S that was rotten I appreciate the link Because I surely caint find any around anywhere If I just had another stick canister I would try make one myself with the material list you provided But no luck I desperately need to get one vet soon To be with my sister who is struggling right now I have to leave here in Maryland and go be with her On October 3rd And I have to take my virago XV 700 Have to try do something soon My car is down for the moment for taking long trips right now Thanks Steve I'll see what I can do Good night friend

Hello, I’m not sure which years they had this easy setup feature, but it’s pretty consistent for GM. It’s easy to tell though…just do like the video and hold the two buttons on the fob, if it honks the horn and then shows it’s in the learn mode then the vehicle still has this feature. Hope this helps and all the best ! Steve

Hey, most times I’ll use up the tube in about a year so I haven’t had any issues with it not hardening up. I did have a tube of one type of sealer that separated in the tube that was several years old though when sealed this way.

Thanks 👍. Hopefully they will be listed this week.

Hello, I’m actually not sure as it could be several things causing one to crank, but not start up. Could be an issue with the fuel supply (injectors not getting a signal to open or a bad fuel pump), ignition system not providing spark to the plugs, or even an issue with the intake sensors like the mass air flow or throttle position sensor not working. Sorry I couldn’t help any, but it would be difficult to know without actually looking to see if the motor is getting fuel and spark to the plugs.

Hey man ! Your post out on the forums was spot on 👍. I too had been cutting them open for years and replacing the foam then sealing them back up…I just got tired of having to do it so decided to make some that unscrew so I could pop them open and replace the filters vs. cracking them back open each time. I’m getting lazy in my old age lol ! The carbs in your pics show just how much stuff can get sucked in so it was nice to see another good example of just what those little breather filters do for a living. All the best !

Hey man, the one on the bobber is the only one I’ve made so far as it took quite a few hours in the shop to make all of the components. Hopefully this winter when things slow down with work a bit, I’ll be able to dust the drawings off and simplify the design a bit now that I know it works good and the bike will consistently kick over.

Hello, I’m not sure where a NOS one could be purchased from since most of the parts for these are no longer made. Most times, a good used one has to be found from places like eBay where folks are parting bikes out.

Do you have a good one

Hey man ! Yep, every petcock on my 1st Gens either allow fuel to go to the carbs when they shouldn’t, or block it off when they should lol. I actually had one that the diaphragm split and it was pulling fuel down through the little vacuum tube and fouling the plugs…took the carbs off twice trying to see why so much fuel was entering the cylinder until I finally noticed it dripping from the little tube. If the needle seat has been damaged, it can actually be cleaned up so the carb will adjust pretty good again…normally no need to try to find another set of carbs (most likely that have been damaged as well after so many years of adjusting). Just grab a set of Acetylene torch tip cleaning files and slowly open the hole back up till you get it opened back up (about 0.9 mm if I remember right…but I mention the size in the video). They are a little set of tiny round files that are used to clean torch tips out. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve

Hey man ! Thanks for the Super Thanks…I really appreciate it 👍. All the best ! Steve

Hey ! I’m not sure who might be making one for the Vulcan if anyone. From the studies I did on the Viragos, the manifold design definitely makes a difference so if I found one, I would definitely check with the Vulcan Facebook forums to see how they did. Sorry I could not help any though, Steve

Thanks ! It would definitely be worth while to check to be sure they are clear (and even the small metal pipes that run along the frame on the 1st Gens). Around here, Mud Daubers love to fill those two metal pipes up with dirt and spiders if the bike sits for a few months which will really throw you off the next time you fire it up lol. Hopefully that’s all it is 👍. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve

👍. Unfortunately, I didn’t check the coil winding resistances before swapping it out so I’m not sure…sorry. I should have put a meter on the new one though as that would have been some good info for folks when checking theirs.

Yep, I had hopes that the bike could be resurrected from the dead like several of the others I got along with it, but looks like the previous owner didn’t know what he was doing. The frame had been chopped in the back as if they were thinking to make a bobber, but I actually have a complete frame from another parts bike I was going to swap everything over to. Not all hope is lost though as I do have other motors I could throw on there, but would have been nice to have had it all complete as an xv1000.

Thanks man 👍. All the best !

Hey man, it didn’t seem to change anything on my bobber when I put the ones I made on, but I had already cut the original ones open and put a new disk of filter media in them a couple of years ago. It might possibly change the vacuum the carbs are pulling if the old ones were really dirty or only had what’s left of the screens still in them but I don’t think it would be significant. New breather filters might change the air fuel mix needle setting slightly however if the carb was tuned with no restriction (like only having the screens left in them) or if they were full of big pieces of debris and were restricting the air. For mine, I just swapped them out and then if I notice any difference in how the bike runs, I’ll have a look at the sync and the air/fuel needle setting…so far it didn’t change anything on how the bikes ride after changing them.

Hey ! Now that I confirmed they fit good and the red filter material replicates the original Yamaha filter’s air flow, I ordered enough materials to make 20 of each style (elbows and straights). The parts should be here in a couple of weeks so I’ll get some made and out on my Steve’s DIYs eBay account soon👍. I’ll add a link to the videos description once they are listed. Thanks for checking and All the best !

@@StevesDIYs That's fantastic. I'll be watching for the link. Although i've got familiar with rebuilding the Mikuni carbs, it is getting a bit tiresome. I noticed this problem awhile ago and simply opted to run with empty tubes. Your always taking it next level. All the best to you and yours.

Hello, I actually wasn’t adjusting anything in this video…the float was stuck open in the front carb so it filled up the cylinder with fuel and I was purging it back out.

Thanks man 👍

Hello, I didn’t have a look at the fuel filter on this one as the problem ended up being the pump. Not sure why changing the filter would affect the lines to the pump, but it sounds like there’s a leak between the pump and the fuel rail if the fuel pressure comes up and then drops back rapidly. I had an Audi TT that developed a crack in the line within the fuel tank so it did that even though there was no raw fuel smell or fuel dripping.

​@@StevesDIYsordered a new fuel pump and fuel sender.

👍. Yep, I don’t know why they can’t just use connectors that separate logically…many other makers use simple connectors…even BMW many times lol.

Thanks 👍. Yep, this set I got was definitely lacking accuracy on most every surface lol…good point on using the taper vs. the body to measure as those are the touch points 👍

Hey man, I’ve not really looked at the EFI type carbs, but if they have air inlets to supply air to any of the porting, a filter wouldn’t hurt for sure.

Thanks man 👍. Yep, these little filters don’t even show up on the parts diagrams as a “filter” as even Yamaha just called them hoses or tubes. I don’t think very many folks even know a filter is in there. I still remember how I figured out there was foam in them many years ago…I had taken the carbs off to clean them as they had stopped up again with fine black particles and I too thought it was coming from the frame. During the carb cleaning, I blew into the rubber hoses with the filter pod in them as usual to be sure they were clear, but for some reason I also sucked air back through it after blowing air through…I got a throat full of the rotted foam and coughed that crap up for hours after 🤣🤣🤣. Suddenly I knew where all of that black particulate was coming from lol ! If you’d like, shoot me an email (it’s at the beginning of the video)…I had a couple extras from these first ones I made. Thanks for the compliment and all the best !

Thanks man and glad the videos help some along the way 👍. Yep, I think I’ve been messing with these old bikes too long now as sometimes I forget they are +40 years old bikes, but I still expect them to perform like they just rolled out of the showroom lol ! There have been times in the past that I was ready to dig a big hole and bury several of them in the back yard though when they got grumpy 🤣🤣. Thanks again and all the best !

Steve Please tell me exactly how i can get those breather filters you make I absolutely have to have at least 2 to get my virago going I need a 45 degree and a straight for my 87 virago xv 700 Please help me friend Tell me how to get these right away Thanks And thanks for you helpful knowledge Steve

Also do you know where the other end hooks up from the carbs it's not on the frame on mine seems to either go to the air filter side or the emissions side Thanks

Hey man ! I’ve ordered the materials to make some more which should arrive in the next couple of weeks. Once I get some made, I will put them out on eBay under my Steve’s DIYs selling page and will also add a link in the description of this video so folks can find them if interested. Thanks and all the best ! Steve

Hey again, I added another video to the channel that shows how they connect up to the frame for the 1st Gens and also out to the left side pod on the 2nd Gen bikes. Yours should be similar to one of these styles. Here’s a link to the other video that’s out on the channel: Virago Upper Carb Breather Filter Replacement - You might have not even known they were filters kzbin.info/www/bejne/qoPaeKt4hq2hd7c . Thanks and all the best !

👍

Hey man ! Yep, so far so good on these for the Escalade as well…still holding up (and pumping up) good so far after installing them when I made the video.

Thanks man and glad the videos have helped some along the way 👍. For the foam filter material I’ve been using over the years by cutting them open and re-gluing the little housings as well as what I now put in the replaceable ones, it is the UNI brand 40 PPI Red foam that comes in a 3/8” thick sheet. It’s like a 12” x 16” sheet of it so one sheet will make a ton of little filter disks. Hope this helps and all the best !

@@StevesDIYs thx Steve for your quick response.

Hey Steve, is there a link to your repop filter housings on your ebay store ??

@danielsimec2178 hey man ! I don’t have them out on an eBay listing yet as I only have a couple left of each kind from the components I ordered to make the first ones…I need to get more materials ordered before listing them. Is your bike a 1st Gen or 2nd Gen? The 1st Gen uses one straight and one 90 degree while the 2nd Gen uses two straights. Or if you’d like, you can email just me (my email is at the beginning of the video).

Hey ! Not sure on the ‘86 1100, but seems like I read that they changed the slope of the Bendix barrel helix at some year so maybe that’s what is causing the binding. Yep, the way the starter solenoid works, it won’t energize the starter until the Bendix and flywheel gears are fully meshed so if it hanging up on the engagement, it won’t start. The no spark issue should be a whole different issue I would think though. You may have already investigated all of this, but since you are having to engage the starter solenoid manually (pushing the lever in that pulls the gears over), it could just be something with how all of he diodes and circuits work. Have you tried pushing the lever over to get the gears to begin meshing (but not so far that it turns the starter yet), then pressing the start button to see if it will pull it on in and crank and spark? I’ve not looked at a diagram for a while on the early year 1100’s, but seems like the CDI gets a +12 volt signal from the start/stop button on the handle bars, but also has a defeat wire (possibly the ground) that all of the safety things tie to (side stand, if in neutral or not with clutch pulled in, etc…). Giving the CDI the ok with this wire to tell the coils to fire should rule out any switches or relays.

@@StevesDIYs definitely been researching. Anyway to energize cdi by-passing the run switch and the safeties? Thanks for the reply

@livinglikarockstar 👍. You should be able to check the Red/white striped wire going to the CDI for +12 volts (I believe Yamaha was pretty consistent with that color for the keyed hot wire). For the wire that enables the CDI, I’m not sure what it’s wire color is, but it’s definitely not the orange or gray wires as those are normally colored for the coil wires.

Thanks man 👍. Don’t feel bad though…that’s the magic of making videos…no one sees the time I spent trying to figure out why putting +12 and negative to the 2nd Gen coil wouldn’t make it work like the 1st Gen and then trying to get it to reproduce the issue lol ! That’s why in the video, one of the coils was a parted open on the lathe so I could see how the coil was wired as it just wasn’t making any sense 🤣🤣.

Hola ! Muchas Gracias y all the best ! Steve

Thanks man 👍. Yep, always something interesting to play with on the old bikes for sure lol. All the best ! Steve

Thanks man and hope the video helped with the odd way they designed that 2nd Gen solenoid 👍. I’ll have to admit that when I first picked it up and looked at it, I thought it was a standard coil solenoid just like the 1st Gen one. It wasn’t until I cut one open on the lathe that I realized that it was like a double coil inside.

Hey again, I don’t think he has a video up yet for the research he did on what has to be done to use the different year and model covers as he just mentioned it in his email to me yesterday. You might try commenting on one of his videos to ask him…I’ll also try to tag him here: Hey @_MotoMikey_ are you planning to make a video on what each setup needs?

Hi. Ill make a video on it soon but here I can just briefly tell You that the one You want is XV1000 but its like finding a unicorn. All covers "fit" on the block, same gasket etc- the only difference is the depth where stator and receiver coil sit. XV 1100 both are deeper so would need to machine a spacer for both. On XV 700 ( but only 86 and 87) the stator depth works but coil still needs some spacers. The XV1000 is the best as it also has flat cover for the timing sight window so most definitely the covers from 920 and 750 will fit but Im waiting for mine to be delivered from the other side of the world so then Ill confirm 100%.

@@StevesDIYs. Hello There Steve, You always impress me with your efforts. Thank you so much

@@_MotoMikey_. Hello , MotoMikey, Thank you very much for all your technical information and looking forward to seeing a video on your channel in the near future. I will subscribe to your KZbin channel.

@@GarysnewYT Youre very welcome. I hope that helps.

Hey man ! Thanks 👍. Yep, seems there’s always something interesting to play with on these Viragos lol. All the best !