Nice! I never really owned too much of their stuff, I had their greenscreen tool as a trial for awhile and randomly uploaded the video that came with it for like..no reason at all. I just thought chromakey is kinda cool. Every now and then I remind myself this upload exists and I'm like "Wow has time changed" haha

They were $600 a piece, then add freight shipping. Freight was like 300, and adding a 2nd cap bumped freight to 400. So thats why I opted for two

I haven't gotten any stats on it. Emailing the company got nothing in return. Theres a guy on ebay who has these exact same caps, but they're rusted to hell and he wants like 600 each. They look stored outdoors too, in the rain. If there's rust near the HV insulator, there's good odds water got inside and it could be useless. So i saw his listing and didnt even bother, as they're so rusted I cant imagine they wouldn't have water inside!

@@PhxSt0rmzI just noticed yours is actually a 32369 part number and the rusty eBay ones are 32327 or something? I had the same concern with the eBay ones, that moisture could have entered around the bushing. That’s one reason I didn’t buy any. Kinda curious where you got yours?

​@@PhxSt0rmz Be careful with some of the older caps, they contain polychlorinated biphenyls. Also, leaking oil filled capacitors can rapidly deconstruct themselves if there is a leak and air has gotten inside...not something you want to happen.

Depends on how you look at it. Id say my xray transformer is more damgerous as thats 175KV and hundreds of mA, and if your hand/body comes within range that 175kv can jump..yer pretty done. Where as the pulse cap is 11kv at most. And likely wont use it over 6-7KV. So you basically have to directly touch it to put yourself in that risk zone. Biggest thing is making sure there's an active meter on the cap and making sure its shorted out before handling it. Some people goof up and have an inductive pulse, and swing the cap to say -1000V after discharge..then have analog meters that dont measure negative voltage...and no crowbar. Then unwillingly welcome risk of touching something with -1000V existing on it. My case everything is basically built for this type of system. Using HVR disk resistors for my discharge system. As theyre rated to safely discharge 50KJ 11KV full tilt, in like 30 seconds. The resistors are made for high energy pulse dumping and the company makes ones that can handle up to multiple Megajoules worth of pulse. So they looked at my request as a "pfff easy" xD

He would need someone there with him to find all the parts of his body if he came in contact with that beast, you don't get shocked by something like this and survive, at full charge it would little blow you to peices, at 100uF 20kV there is more energy than a 50cal BMG round 😀... he knows what hes doing and understands the danger I'm sure....

I've used 5kV, 3.2mF banks. Never shorted them out though.... However, you most likely will be instantly deleted if you happen to be an unintended conduction path, so doesn't matter about having help nearby really.

@@ic7481 Prettty much! I use this both by myself and with a friend. Doesn't really make much of a difference. Main thing is that the operator ( You ) know the dangers and design/build a safe system with fail-safes and ways to basically always know the voltage of the cap. Always planning for something to not work, or something to be a false indication. Your meter could say 0V and if something internally failed somehow ( analog meter for example ) whats your proof that its actually 0V? Your just gona trust it 100% and trust your discharge circuit etc etc? Some go as far as adding a 3rd fail-safe which is a crowbar direct short. Basically bleed the system with a power resistor. Volt meter for showing its at 0V, and then throw the mechanical crowbar lever as the 3rd and final confirmation that cap is safe to handle. I do like having a buddy for the conversation/ideas. Just gotta be careful as a buddy can mean a distraction or a missed step. I kinda make sure my friend fully understands the charge/discharge sequence so we're on the same page.

I have two of them, as I didnt feel like paying for more on freight shipping to do more. No plans to link multiple together, its more so just a backup, since these caps have a lifespand of how many shots they're rated and you never know their past history when its gov surplus.

This happend to be off craiglist. I've seen them come across facebook market every now and then. Cheap and expensive. Once saw someone trying to get rid of 4ft tall ones for $500 each, but I had no means of moving one of those. In this case, Someone on a facebook page linked a craiglist posting of a guy that had 3 new-old-stock ones for sale. 100 pounds, so reasonable to ship/move by yourself. The guy had two left, and I opted to buy both of them since they were $250 each and shipping for each one was like 160'ish. So, hard to say. Best I can say is either harp ebay or facebook market. Same with xray transforemrs. I started searching my area weekly for "Xray" and every now and then I find a place wanting to get rid of stuff and asking $100 for everything, and there sits a 200 pound transformer in the picture and I'm just like uhhh...yes. xD But there's also postings for people wanting >10K for setups. Just depends on the day!

Someday I just need to get current limiting so I can run it at a higher voltage. 40V in is about the most I can do, as that floats around 20A, which is my breaker's limit for the time being. My friend wants to upgrade the power to 240VAC some year in the future. As you draw arcs, current drops a little One solution some people do, is use filament bulbs to limit power.. heh

@@PhxSt0rmz lightbulbs are one way, another option is using magnetic balasts (from fluorescent lighting). That is what photonicinduction did. They have a power rating and depending on how many of them you switch in parallel, you can easily set a limit. And they don't burn out as easily as lightbulbs 😊

What about putting a capacitor in series with the line voltage? Couldn't you limit current based on the size of the capacitor?

@@jasonharrison25 You can, but you have to find capacitors in an industrial package with wire terminals if you do not want to roll a custom pcb and those are hard to find in a lot of values I imagine.. Most capacitors are designed for pcb soldering. Capacitors also degrade and can change their value over time.

@@MrDubje there are plenty of run capacitors made for motors that might have the specs you need. Plus they are relatively cheap. Have wire terminals and long life

Accuracy isnt the point here. If Accuracy was the point, id mill the top first. 20mm is a rounded number. Reality depth of cut was 22mm measured from top surface to bottom of cut, which also created chips that were 22mm length. This is a "close enough" method to get an idea of how a cutter performs. As now when I do HDPE cutting ( properly bolted down ) i do full depth up to 20mm, with 80% stepover at 1500mm/min due to the above video/test showing it was doable with that cutter. Except now days, I have almost double the spindle power, more rigid setup, etc

This was full spindle speed, so 24,000rpm. Could feed faster. At my work we use 3/4" 3-Flute endmills at 15,000rpm no coolant and rough out 12" diamater blanks. Tons of chips. Likewise here, chips that come off are very warm, but the bar/tool stay a lot cooler.

Your videos are really inspiring me. I have been trying to decide between a Vasto with the closed loop upgrade or an XE-PRO with Linear rails upgrade or the Nymolabs 6040. What splendil did you upgrade to?@@PhxSt0rmz

@bretthays2674 I used a 1.5KW air-cooled spindle from BulkMan3D. Its driven by a VFD controller ( comes with the kit ). Quiet a lot more power than using a dewalt or makita router. Despite I was able to do all my cuts on the stock stepper motors. Never once experienced lost steps. Most all my other vasto videos are with the stock stepper motors. This is the only video I posted so far, with 4.2A replacement stepper motors. All the same benifits of the closed loop kit foxalien sells, but half the price. These just dont have the close-loop system which..Basically just alarm out if a problem happens. Ive seen people still report having loss steps on their closed loop system and either foxalien didnt properly enable it on the controller, or.. their closed loop type may just fault out ( estop ) if a step is lost. They dont "correct" like encoder steppers would. That said. Their claim that closed loop is "faster" is only true because those steppers have more torque than the stock ones. And well, the 4.2A ones i moved to, have more torque, and likewise are faster than stock. ( more torque at higher speed. ) Though what i did in this video is easily done with the stock stepper motors. To be clear!

⁠@@PhxSt0rmzI’m assuming the 4.2A motors required separate drivers and control from what comes with the stock setup? Or was the stock controller/drivers capable of handling the upgrade?

@@louiswatt8628 Stock controller for the Vasto, uses universal stepper drivers. Theres 4 large units inside that allow you to adjust the current and steps. Each driver module is like 3x4 inches, so I just adjusted the DIP Switches on them, to run 4.2A steppers

I got my spindle as a kit. BulkMan3D sells spindle kits, that comes with the wire, 1.5KW spindle, and VFD driver. Plug and play pretty much. I just had to make sure it was a 65mm diameter, as the 80mm spindles wont fit the stock holders. They come in air or water cooled..i prefer air, since I dont want to manage a water loop. The air ones run cool even after hours of use. The down-draft they push sorta helps push dust and small chips around which is nice for a vac system. On the VFD, you can change the settings so the spindle-on is controlled by a cheap relay off amazon. So you can still use the vasto's spindle out and just rewire that 24V to trigger a relay ( i dont remember if its 24 or 48 volts ) this isnt required though. As the VFD has a start/stop button and speed control. So you can run it manually just like a dewalt/makita router. Other than that the only stuff i changed on my vasto was I lowered the table 10mm and added extra supports. Just to make it more rigid. Not required, but it helps keep chatter down when metal cutting

@@PhxSt0rmz Thanks for the details! Did you solder the wire connector yourself, or did the cable came pre-terminated? Could you also clarify what you mean by lowering the table 10mm? Lastly, are you happy with this machine and would you recommend it over other brands/models in the same price range for milling aluminum?

@@jphalip I pre-ordered mine and the individual wood slats would flex up/down separately. This got fixed on all future machines sold, as they now interlock. So I rebuilt my table. My only minor regret is sorta wishing I bought a larger model. Although it does most my needs fine, there's times I wish it was a little larger. But then I have to wonder is it still just-as-rigid as the small one? I had to cut/solder the VFD spindle connection myself. Someone out there might sell one thats pre-assembled but I know my BulkMan3D one, you had to solder the wires and build the connector yourself. Didn't require anymore tools than a crimper and solder iron though. And I haven't tried other models. If you want to do metal, the main thing to look for is making sure the machine is NOT using belts. Belts stretch under load and dont repeat as well. You also want linear rails ( Not wheels ) for rigidity. The Vasto isnt the only machine on the market that has ballscrews ( not acme rods ) and linear rails. Shapoko I think did too, but it was a lot more expensive at the time I bought mine. The X axis gantry is also pretty rigid on the vasto. the side orange plates are over 1/2" thick solid aluminum. I've been pretty happy with it though. I never really ran into a limit with the machine. Its always been the tooling itself

@@PhxSt0rmz Awesome, thank you! The Vasto does seem like it has a lot of great features for a decent price compared to the competition. I do like the size as I have a small workshop. I'm currently thinking between this and the MillRight Mega V2, which is more expensive but is American-made and would have (supposedly) good support in the long term.

@jphalip Right now mine sits on a 2x4ft table. The machine overhangs by about 4 inches..and the steppers another 3 inches. It puts a decent gap behind the table/wall because I wanted the machine flush at the front. Since I clamped a monitor to my desk, I have a 2x2ft area almost of just empty table space. Which, i guess is handy for misc stuff. But part of me wishes this 2x4ft table was a 2x4ft machine. Since i installed drawers under the table, for tools and such. But, I guess thats just me being picky haha

Yep! They're designed for that use, I picked up a few from a local friend-of-a-friend. Sadly only this one allows for "Open load" running, as the others automatically check for a load and will alarm out, since this meter isn't drawing a load. It will actually though display 30uA when the meter is drawing 30uA. These meters you can, funny enough, buy them brand new still. Same exact look and model number. I opted to go the cheaper rout and but them as vintage old-new-stock. Lot cheaper & still function great!

@@PhxSt0rmz Regarding the no-load operation, you might want to take a careful look inside, but I'm sure you have done so already. I'll post a link in a separate comment in case KZbin blocks it. You can probably find the part of the circuit responsible for the load detection if it is anything like this.

This is a 65mm spindle, theres a handful on amazon but I got mine from bulkman3D. Mounts to the stock clamp that comes with the vasto, no modding was done! bulkman3d.com/product/spk-1500/ They sell both diamaters here.

Z-Height is limited by the distance between the cutting surface ( table ) and the bottom of the Z assembly. This distance on mine is 3.75 inches. Regaurdless of the fact my spindle can travel more than that, If the part cannot slide under the gantry, there's no ability to machine it of course. So its limited by the gantry height, not so much the spindle. That distance is 3.75 inches on mine, Given my bed sits 12mm lower than a stock vasto..as its heavily modified and reinforced. So stock vasto may actually be more like 3.3 inches

How did you lower the bed ? It looks like you still have the hybrid table that the vasco comes with? Did you have a pic of the bed modification? Thanks

So, I was able to use a Dewalt router ( I think those are 700W? ) origionally. I used 1/4" collet on the router and was able to use 1/4" tooling without problems. I use to do all my aluminum cuts with the dewalt router. The issue I had wasn't the power. I was able to do ( sorta ) similar cuts like this video. But, The RPMs dropped once it starts cutting, then the speed-controller would over-correct, shoot the RPMs way up, and correct it stable. By time it got stable, the cut was already done. This spirratic RPM made for messy chatter cuts. If your 800W spindle is brushed, with just DC power going to it, it wont be as durable/powerful at holding RPMs like a dewalt/makita/VFD spindle. Those 3 are brushless and use a driver to keep the RPM constant, by dynamically changing the current as the spindle is loaded. With the 1.5KW spindle, the limitation is usually the tool breaking. I never stalled the spindle and never had steppers skip yet. But to be fair, I havent really broken any tooling yet. I recently got a 3-FL 1/8" cutter and I ran that around 1000mm/min with a 0.2 stepover at 14mm DOC ( side-wall cutting ) without issues. Its a super rigid machine. All my parts made so far look almost as flawless as parts made with a HAAS VF1 at work. I just gotta take the cuts slower, vs the industrial machines haha

@@PhxSt0rmz thanks for the really useful points. The spindle is a brushed one with DC power. I do have a plan to upgrade to a 1.5kw spindle with VFD.

Any will work, its all user preference. I prefer controlling/loading programs with Candle CNC. I use Fusion 360 to do my toolpaths, since its free & I'm already accustomed to using Fusion at my work, as I've been in the CNC trade, industry, for >10 years.

Thanks! Some reason I didn't see this comment til recently. It definitely is uncommon to have someone own a 120W fiber laser for 'fun' along with other stuff. To me they're all just tools to help aid in craft/design. I will say a lot of stuff I do dosen't make it to a KZbin channel. I do a lot of pictures, pretty much photo document everything I do day-to-day, in a way. I'm just not too accustomed to doing videos and having to mind camera shots when I want to fixate on the craft. A lot of that too is I'm just a natural introvert. As much as I'd love to be all voicing-over and such, I'm too paranoid with house-mates to be 'talking to myself for a video' and having random interruptions or simply knowing others could be listening-in etc. Stupid silly things like that keep me from ever kicking this channel off, beyond what its been. High-Voltage and such has been on standby. Still into it, Got a 175KV 500mA xray transformer sitting dormient in a friend's barn, etc. Need to DIY a 120V 1Khz inverter for it. But yeah. I still exist, I still do all the crafting/hobbies. Adulting happened ( Full-Time Aerospace CNC Machinist ) which limits me, and lack of full privacy allowing an introvert like me to blab to a camera, restricts me..haha. Someday hope to reboot things once I get my own place hopefully here soon in the near future and I'd probably just start a new channel if things end up going well enough. Of course I'd video-post on this channel, if I did end up creating another. Unless I can rename on here. As PhxSt0rmz was origionally a fake joke channel I made back when I beta-tested with Phoenix-Storms for GarrysMod. I created it as a joke and never intended to use it like I have.

@@PhxSt0rmz I know you are still around, doing all kinds of weird and wonderful stuff. Love the variety of content on your twitter. I'm a follower. I can relate to the introvert part a bit, but I'm in my own house. My lack of in-depth knowledge is what's keeping me from making "interesting videos", and as I often do repairs and not design that's what keeps it that way. I also want to get stuff done when I feel like it, and like to get it over with once started, so documenting it for "no reason" other than YT feels like a waste of time and effort. Adulting over here as well, haha. Working a full-time desk job with a lot of frustrations and stress to get everything arranged so production can keep moving forward during the day leave me with no real desire or energy to just make content for the sake of content in my spare time.

The only mods from stock are the 1.5KW VFD spindle ( highly recommend, makes for a whole new machine vs a dewalt router ) and I did reinforce the table by adding a lot of 2020 extrusions under it, just to keep the boards from flexing. This isnt NEEDED as most people slap a large spoilerboard ontop and screw it down, which has a similar effect of reinforcing. But, I come from 10 years of CNC machining in the industry..rigidity is everything..so, I just did it to be extra sure haha. Its a good machine for the price in my opinion. I can absolutely rip HDPE plastic at 20mm depth of cut at 1500mm/m speeds pretty easily and even if i do get a chatter surface, nothing a finish pass doesnt fix ( 0.2mm stepover ) Have cut one steel part. Needed to turn a small block of steel into a T nut for a vintage lathe. I took my time though doing like 0.2mm stepdown passes, but the results looked made-to-be and perfect especially after a quick pass through a steelwool buffing wheel.

@@PhxSt0rmz thanks 🙏

Why is a VFD spindle better than say a makita router? Honest question, im new into cnc.

@@AritonovicDusan cause usually vfd spindles with proper controllers can be controlled down to rpm not just by selecting from 6 speeds and in most cases ppl buy 1.5kw and up spindles so they are more powerful. For example a makita router is around 710-800w i think. Hope this clears it up! :D

Lot of this was just making do with what I have. Now I run a metal fixture plate with MODVISE & mitebitte jaws to hold my parts, so i can cut them faster.

1.5KW VFD Spindle, Air cooled, 65mm diamater, bought off BulkMan3D

This holds my 40W optical power 455nm laser module. XTool, needed a way to mount it to my linear rail. Does the job great and looks ment-to-be!

This was full tilt, which i believe is 24,000 or 20,000rpm. I seem to have best results just running the spindle at its full speed, as I think it has the most power/torque at full speed. Even with the 3 flutes, the cuts sound pretty normal and really no signs of rubbing. The aluminum parts when put onto a 0000 steel wool buffing wheel, to make them matte, literally look like they're professional fabricated flawless parts..like the same quality that im getting off the machines at work ( HAAS VF4 / Kitamuras )

Thank you for replying I just changed out my fox alien wm-3020 300w spindle for a 1500w. Just trying to get an idea of where I should start. Max I could do and not have chatter with the 300w was. .080 depth of cut. .015 step over at 48ipm.

SpeTool 2Pcs 1/4" Shank Aluminum Router Bit 3 Flute End Mill 2-1/2" OVL SPE-X Extra Long Life a.co/d/eYSkMMH This is the tool I used in this video and my other video. I do aerospace CNC for a living and most all our finishers/roughers for high speed machining are 3 flute endmills. TitanCNC also has a video that explains 3 Flute is the best for aluminum as its a good balance of chip evacuation for roughing, and a good finisher. 1 flute will evac chips the most, but wont leave a good finish typically. 5 flute leaves a good finish, but is poor at removing tons of chips. Mind you, although I can do 14MM depth of cut, this is ONLY for profiling a perimeter. If you tried to cut a slot at that depth, where 50% of the tool is engaging the part, it wouldnt go well. Maybe if you back the speed off a ton. The first section of the video is that type of cut, so I only took 0.5mm off per pass, since we learned in my past video, 0.8mm depth at 2000mm/min, completely stalled my spindle

@@PhxSt0rmz thanks have take time to explain all this information. It is precious. Will try what to you do. It is my first time I play with CNC. Need learning curve.

​@@PhxSt0rmz I will check your other videos

Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Because this was powered off ESC with variable RPM, I guess technically tuning would be done by changing the RPM? I just made this on a whim with absolutely no knowledge of sirens. I just based it off one I saw on google. I dont have this around anymore because quiet honestly, I dont trust 3D prints at high RPMs. Nowadays I could much easier cut this out of 1/2" wood on a laser cutter and make a much stronger one.

If you can find a clamp and have the ability to machine a mount plate, I've seen at least 1 person manage to put the 80mm 2.2KW on their Vasto. I'm running the 1.5KW simply because I didn't want to make an adaptor, its 65mm diameter and worked with the clamp that came with the machine. I feel for anything I do on this machine, The spindle power isnt the limit. I dont see myself needing the ability to run over 1/4" tooling, so the 2.2KW didn't look too appealing.

​@@PhxSt0rmzI mean it seems like the limiting factor here isn't the rigidity of the machine, it's the power of the spindle, which is wild

@Lucas_sGarage Since this video, I have 4.2A steppers on mine now. Which is almost double the amperage of the stock ones. But yeah, often the limit is the tool itself breaking or the spindle. I never took a hard enough bite to put too much load on the spindle. Im not doing mass production, so a 14mm DOC with .5 stepover is plenty fast enough for me. Even tho i know i could get away with 0.8, and probably more. But when im in no rush, why bother ripping a tool hard when I could do lighter cuts and use a little more time, and *potentially* get more tool life. I basically utilize it to its potential but i do push anything. Im for sure using it far more than any belt-driven machine I've had. Thats what counts haha. Did some full depth cutting in my most recent video, when i just wanted quick and dirty radius cuts.

@@PhxSt0rmz awesome, I will definitely check it out, I'm personally making a printnc V3 to cut steel and aluminum

I have a 1.5KW spindle on it nowadays and its far more "stable" with the RPMs, hardly hear them dip. The dewalt router massively dips, then way overshoots, and balances out which causes a ton of issues. Night and day difference. I also reinforced the table since this video which made it so the bed isn't flexing during the cut. Been super low-key trying to find what i did with the footage months ago as I dont want to rip up another block of plastic haha. Not too long ago i did a bit of steel