@nebraska8379 Just dropped a video for you. I've only got 4 wires - the power and the fan, I assume the extra two you have are the switch. Hope this helps: kzbin.infoxWkMXeF4DvA?feature=share

I think you are asking where can one purchase new door gaskets. Longwood has been out of business for quite a while, so it's just not possible to get OEM gaskets as far as I know. Assuming your draw issue is too much, the first thing I recommend is you check the adjustment of your door gaskets. See page 22 of the manual (link in the description) for how to do that. Note that the adjustment procedure, if needed, is different for each door. Also, if you have the model with the automatic damper on the ash door, you'll need to check it's operation. If you have too little draw, clean the chimney and make sure your reclaimer is clean. Hope this helps!

With these forks I get 8 feet even. The forks themselves extend 2 feet below the bottom of the bucket. I didn't like that when I was shopping but it was the only option. Now that I have them - this extra clearance is necessary. It allows you to see the end of the forks from the cab. If you had forks even with the bucket edge, you wouldn't be able to see the tips of the forks.

@ appreciate the reply! Yea I liked what you said about good visibility from the cab. I use an old 966c with a set of forks at work frequently and usually have to stab pallets blind off the ground, its a headache. Good to know you get good clearance with yours, I will be ordering the same set once I get my machine delivered!

I've only seen mine glowing once, and it was because I left the door open while lighting and got distracted - the reclaimer and the whole stack up to the ceiling was cherry red before I noticed it! So, that isn't normal. A few things to check - does the reclaimer fan run? If it doesn't run: 1) disconnect the fan leads, an connect them to an extension cord (twist the wires and you can fit them into the end of a cord, or sacrifice a cord and cut off the end). The fan motor is 110 v, so it should run. If it does not the fan motor is burned out or just needs lubricated, you'll have to take it apart to oil the bearings as it is a sealed motor. 2) if the motor runs it might be the switch (inside the junction box on top of the reclaimer). This is a thermal switch, test for continuity with a meter, it should be open when cold, and when the furnace is hot it should close. I don't know the temperature it should close at, but glowing is definitely enough. My reclaimer reads 400 degrees on the face when running, but I bet the switch is set for something like 250. 3) The wiring might not be right to the reclaimer & switch assembly. There should be power coming directly to them, and it shouldn't be switched. It could be someone connected it to the same place as the blower motor, which would mean the reclaimer would only run when it does. That is incorrect, it should operate independently. If the reclaimer fan does run - my guess is and air leak - maybe you have a bad or poorly adjusted gasket on one of the doors. See the manual for proper adjustment - it says something about using a strip of paper. The gaskets are made of asbestos (which is safe as long as you aren't shredding it) so you can't get replacements. If you need to replace it I think getting a stove door gasket (the round kind) would work. It glues on, I suspect one would need to take the door off and lie it face up, so the gasket could stay in place while the glue dries. There is also a possibility that your chimney has too much draw - basically pulling a vacuum all the time, which would pull fresh air into the furnace and fuel the fire even when not needed. You can test for that by propping open the damper control on the side rear of the unit. All of that being said - if the reclaimer is running properly and independently of the blower, the blower works, the burner only runs when the thermostat calls for heat, and the door gaskets are good, and a load of wood lasts 12 hours, I wouldn't worry about it. Hope this helps. Follow up questions are welcome!

@ it does run on and off. It doesn’t sound very good but it runs. I don’t feel like my load of wood is lasting 12 hours though. Is this the junction box? Trying to add a pic.. there are some frayed wires in there.

It won’t let me add pics. Sorry! I see that the side damper at the rear is kind of held slightly open with a piece of metal. Once I turned the thermostat off upstairs the red went away. So I think there is too much air getting into the box when it’s calling for heat. I would love to send you all these pics if you have a way!

​ @annapeterson3334 I really think your best bet at this point is to make a video. Upload it to youtube and post a link here. Then post the link to it here in a comment and I'll take a look. You can always delete the video later. If you want to only do pictures, you can post them on your own community page in youtube, or use imgur or flickr those are good too. The rear damper being propped open doesn't surprise me, that would reduce the draw on the firebox. I guess a basic question is - is it heating fine? I can't say for sure if it's bad or not that the tubes are red, just mine haven't done that. That being said - I don't have any gas set up on mine. I can imagine that with the gas blower and wood inside, the flue would get much hotter. I would like to inside with the door open when you have the thermostat calling for heat - seeing what kind of flame the burner is putting out might tell us something. You also said the reclaimer fan was not sounding good, that is where a video would be good so I can hear it.

@ I’ve posted my Flickr album here a few times and it keeps getting deleted. Sorry. I’m trying!

I'd love to see video when you get it running! FYI the crankcase oil should be 30 weight -nondetergent- oil. Don't use automotive oil.

@@dirtyshirtworkshop Will do!

I no longer use the fuel filter in the front - the system detects when the filter is plugged I assume with a vacuum sensor. The fuel filter added too much restriction. Without it, the system still pulls clean air from the engine bay so the main filter box will last longer. Also had to get a new filter box, my old one was just too plugged and blowing it out didn't help enough. Those at about $35, the part number is 42072va000 (at least for my 2017).

I like that idea, good one!