The frame creates its own problems being aluminium it’s a significant cold bridge all on its own so I plan to cover it with closed cell foam or similar. The glass being flat forms really large droplets I explain it all in the video below. This window is twice the size of the one I had in WAS but I don’t have a blind to deal with this time so an insulated insert and secondary glazing will be easier to make. Another option might be to completely replace the glass with an insulated panel. kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4ukXouZibhpeJosi=CiPpG0i6VtdL1o28

Hopefully I have sorted them all, could do with a downpour to verify but preferably not this weekend!

Thanks

There is very little chance of water from the engine cooling circuit mixing with water in the tank. the copper internal heat exchanger coil inside the tank would have to fail and begin leaking first. If the water tank was empty then there would be a very obvious loss of engine coolant, if the tank had water in it then it would be less obvious initially but the water would obviously be tainted with antifreeze mix. It's obviously good practice to have isolating/balance valves in the engine flow and return pipes. My tank are always empty when the van is not in use so no chance of frost damage in a cold van obviously if any tank is able to freeze all sorts of damage can occur from the expansion of the water if the external pipe work isn't sound then yes there always a possibility of leaks but that imho would just be down to bad plumbing techniques Some people use tanks without a coil but that requires an external heat exchanger and a circulation pump and is probably less efficient however the tank can then be almost anything even a vented plastic container like the ones Bobil vans sell. My tank also has a dual 230vAC/12DC immersion heater I use the 12v one most of the time as a solar dump load.

We don’t it is far too dusty and like coir or peat makes a mess and can get spilt too easily, I use wood shavings sold in pet shops etc as horse bedding see example below, when the current bag runs out I might try some cat litter as an experiment but so far the wood shavings have been very good albeit quite bulky. www.farmandpetplace.co.uk/shop/products/equine/horse-bedding/shavings/bedmax-shavings-18kg.html

Nope not yet, doing the iveco has taken priority!

I just noticed the Ek1 pdf link in the description was kaput so adde a couple of new ones

Hard to say really I used it primarily so save space at the back where the bed is, we've not been cold in the van. I would not use it again though it's simply too hard to work with.

Thanks

I bought this one, it looks identical to the original wiper stalk and the wipers work as expected but I haven’t driven the van to test the CC part yet. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165028087971?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yyqjsshvQx-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=siBBbbkuT8O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

thank you so much. will take a look. @@CriftinsCampers

I just find this stuff interesting, ex Ambulances especially without any wiring diagrams are often like playing detective, so it keeps the grey matter working as well. 😀

Obviously not this particular dongle no, check their web site for your own van model, or iirc it can be done on later models with VCDS

Glad it may have helped! My van is still being a bit of a pita, I get a Nox sensor fault code every 2-300 miles it’s had a replacement which lasted about 6 months, annoyingly expensive things so I think I will just live with it until it packs up properly!

Lithium is fine for trickle charging a lead acid battery my AMT12-2 is effectively doing exactly that, in fact it is better because it sits at around 13.2v virtually permanently when not being charged, so allowing for the volt drop across a diode the lead acid will be maintained at a healthy 12.5-12.6v even overnight. Then when solar kicks in the lead acid battery voltage will rise in proportion to the higher charge voltage to the Lithium same as in my demonstration so is then effectively on float. Perhaps the Votronic docs meant do not physically connect lithium and lead acid directly together in parallel. This can have undesirable effects and as an aside it's never a good idea to use an Archaic split charge relay with Lithium! FYI in recent years many people have started experimenting with hybrid Lithium/Lead Acid Auxiliary battery banks but that an entire topic on its own!

I haven’t decided what’s going in the Daily yet, I have an Xtrons in the Crafter, it’s ok ish it draws about 25mA when off. Like all these units the screen isn’t bright enough in sunlight, apps don’t always display properly in landscape and the touch screen controls are dangerous or impossible to try and use when driving. I may use a normal BT head unit with proper knobs on and a normal phone mount for google maps. I don’t have steering wheel controls in either van which doesn’t help either!

@CriftinsCampers I think my canbus decoder was faulty, I lost remote CL with it plugged in ? But the reverse camera triggered OK, I use manual triggering with feed off the Phnx system, I think inane is an atoto 4 with proper buttons and a volume lnob 👌 not really a touch screen fan tbh, personally I think they're dangerous and distracting but it's handy for the cams I spose.

I suspect the supply at the highest voltage wins if both feeds are powered up together. I have kept the scene lights wired up to Genisys in the iveco but will probably be using diodes rather than relays this time to have them come on when in Reverse.

@CriftinsCampers I kept my scene lights on Phnx as well but I put LED strips in there as well powerd from the leasure system, simply to save power, the bulbs they use are a bit power heavy and bright for camp illumination 🤔

Thanks

I don’t provide any direct support via email as that was wasting far too much of my time. I have found inviting people over for a chat and estimate is more productive and more importantly also weeds out the free loaders! I suggest you join the FB group linked below if you use the group search tool you will find pretty much everything you will ever need to know will have been asked and answered dozens of times before. Plus if the search fails there’s always newbies asking the same questions repeatedly so members reply regularly albeit sometimes incorrectly! Hint never assume anyone knows what van you have! PS if you are buying one of the excessively gutted over priced white ex SAS vans you will be pretty much starting from scratch anyway m.facebook.com/groups/1359736930818776/?ref=share

Thanks @@CriftinsCampers First ex sas vans??? I can only find 1 WAS van in merther auction, If i buy Can i get in touch about a price for removal from you I only live in oswestry, will join group now

@@stevemaskell5829 SAS is Scottish Ambulance Service. I don’t recommend buying from either Merthyr or Brightwells, their decommissioning vandals cause too much damage and the fees make the prices excessive, plus zero warranty try Basevans web site or Marketplace and the dozens of groups on FB selling ex event vans.

@@CriftinsCampers Thank you for that was about to go to merthyr to look at the WAS ambulance this week That was after watching all project WAS decided that was the van I wanted. Thanks again

@@stevemaskell5829 no harm going to look just make sure you understand the fees they add on and what state the vehicle will be handed over in. If it’s currently still intact then inventory it, batteries, heater, Retarder, Genisys modules, inverter etc so you know if anything has gone walkies whilst they rip off the battenburgs and let’s gorillas with wire cutters loose on the electrics! The price you pay effectively is paying for the vandalism and you have no option to say I will diy it!

Almost every batch of converted Ambulance is different so you may well have removed an interlock related to what is known as the kneeling function but no point me speculating what. I suggest you join this group below, post some pictures of what you have removed, someone there may have a similar spec vehicle. facebook.com/groups/1359736930818776/

3620kg full fuel tank, one passenger and with 200ltrs of water, at the time it was plated at 3850kg which didn’t leave enough spare capacity for everything else or any nose weight when towing so it’s now plated at 4230kg

Your welcome

Yes, it does still get called that from time to time! Most Subscribers won’t have a clue what your post meant though😀

Hi Stephen, if you use W3W this is exactly where we parked, we stayed up there for a couple of days. ///couple.anguished.dinosaur

Nah that’s nothing, you ought to have seen some of the computer server rooms I have worked in, the network and telecoms guys are masters at making a hundred spiders webs into a near impenetrable maze!

It's a bit unusual, Iveco cabs are mounted on four rubber bushes to the chassis for isolation so usually the back of the cab would add some structure if the bushes needed replacing. However the box in this van is made from Omniapanel which is extremely strong so the cab hasn't lost any structural integrity. It might make jacking the cab up to replace the bushes interesting if they ever needed replacing though!

Even the Iveco van version is rubber mounted to the chassis, cab and rear body. That is a chassis cowl, it's an option from the manufacturer and how motorhome chassis are ordered from the manufacturer 👍

@@Dirt-Diggler Ah ok thanks for that, I am not that up to speed with Dailys yet….

@@CriftinsCampers I'm sure you will be soon ! I've seen how fast you work 😁👍

It's a bit of a pita that this install is inside an aluminium box which I need to get rid of, I am probably going to have to disconnect a fair bit more than normal to get it all out of the box. Unless I give it the angle grinder treatment.........

Nothing wrong with the angle grinder. My genisys is integrated into the bulkhead so an angle grinder is probably going to be my best friend along with the multitool too. My van is full of siliconed fibreglass panels.

Over the last five years I’ve only ever used hookup when parked at home mainly to provide mains in the van during the conversion So the sockets on this van are for the same and really just keeping the holes filled!

As for insulation because the walls are flat I will be using standard sheets of pir 50mm in the ceiling 25-30 for the walls and same for the floor.

Yep they typically have fairly beefy supply cables, I reused most of them in my previous WAS Sprinter. I am just about to start on the existing 12v wiring in this van including the stuff the squirrels have chewed on!

Yep, interesting gadget, not entirely sure if I will keep them yet, the corner mast needs an overhaul and the night owl is quite heavy. Most likely thing to put on the night owl if a wind turbine is impractical will be a 4g or TV antenna

@@CriftinsCampers I would definitely look at a wind turbine generating power through the night to help out

Best to bypass anything needed regularly because Genisys is annoying and can be.power hungry so best isolated when the engine is not running. If you live in the UK join this FB group, use the search tool, nearly every question you can think of asking will have been answered dozens of times so it’s invaluable. m.facebook.com/groups/1359736930818776/?ref=share

Thanks, with a van like this it’s just going to end up a a rectangular box with a few extra existing features as a starting point, I am currently chasing a couple of water leaks from the roof whilst stripping it out to insulate. The only thing that might put some people off is the amount of electrics in these sort of vans but my background means it’s not a problem. One peculiar thing which I will demonstrate in the next video is the overhead lockers couldn’t be removed without taking the ceiling down first!

@@CriftinsCampersthanks and plenty of wiring and insulation to do. Looking forward to the transformation thanks Dave