Can I ask you how much do you pay for the grinder machine? I am asking because I like that. I am a fresher in this business.

Hi Ryan, could you go through how to use lapping stones and how often you use them? I bought one to flatten my stones and I ended up turning the lapping stone convex!

What machines are these?

How do you flatten your 320 grit stone (and the 220 grit stone from another video on thinning) - diamond plate, silicon carbide flattening stone, or loose grit on glass? Thanks in advance!

Question would you be able to sharpen a Karambit blade?

Please ask that other guy if he could give you the respect you deserve to stay out of the camera including his shadow while you are doing what you do best, loved your work.

Nice job.

Finally got one of my knives to razor sharp status with this vid

what is the make and model of the grinder you using. i am just getting my feet wet

Consistent angle - nice edge. Wobbly angle - convex grind.

Which 2x42 belt grinder do you use and what is the motor RPM?

It’s been very hard to find a video like this on youtube. I have a petty knife with a scandi grind, as you say, and another gyuto with a primary/secondary geometry that I never maintained the thinning on each time I sharpened over the years. After my last sharpening I noticed the results were just so poor I couldn’t ignore it anymore. I did a test on my stones and realized I need to remove so much damn steel, even on my 220 stone, like you said, it would take all day. I’m like, theres no way knife shops would ever this on a stone. Im comfortable with belt grinders, and its oddly reassuring to hear you say, this is really hard and not for beginners. Makes me realizes my instincts were right. Changing edge geometry and putting a knife on a grinder is serious business. All the thinning videos I see show the concept on a stone with of course knives with primary/secondary bevels, and Im going, theres no way this is as short of a process as they’re making it seem lol .

Was the cause of the fire the sparks from the knife sharpening or was it electrical?

You are clearly skilled and knowledgeable. But you spent 8 1/2 minutes saying the same thing over and over and over before finally grinding the knife. No wonder you have so few views! I wanted to pull my hair out for about 8 minutes!

Nice work!

Thank you for the education.

Appreciate your communication skills. This is excellent and I feel confident it will help me..cause man....I need some help.

Wow! Nice job. I have a home made 2x72 and I’m trying to re learn how to sharpen. I forgot everything. Thanks. I will try again.

I know this is a year old but you are still the best of the best Ryan! 🙌🏻❤

Obrigado . Top ...

What is the backing you have created behind the belt?

Hello from Canada 🇨🇦. Thanks for this.

Originally these are ground convex. Do keep the convexity with your radius platen or they go flat/concave? I've had mine thinned here in the UK on a horizontal wheel and performance went up but it's extremely sticky now.

Great job brother

Havet watche the vid yet.. just needed to say how much I appreciate that your name is Swanson and you look like Ron Swanson...that is all.

What kind of grinder are you using? I've been looking into getting a 2x42 and they all seem a little different.

You've done a really good job. Super skilled work. Phantastic 👍 BR from 🇦🇹

@39:41 I keep seeing what you call the primary edge being referred to as the secondary bevel and what you refer to as the secondary edge called the primary bevel (the grind). I wish the entire community could agree on the terms. Anyhow, love these videos.

Great skills! 👍

So for a corrective job like this, what are you charging? Would it be the same rate as you typically charge for a sharpening/thinning? I wonder this with my own fledgling sharpening business as I recognize that some sharpening jobs are really just quick "touch ups" and others are marathon jobs trying to correct bad work done by previous sharpeners. Do I just sharpen everything at the same rate and trust that the law of averages take over, or go case by case?

Ryan you're awesome! I'm newly in love with jknives. I'm a little bit confused about the terminology you were using. When I Google primary edge and secondary edge most of the diagrams in the image search refer to the cutting edge as the secondary bevel. When I Google parts of a Japanese knife they call that cutting edge the hasaki (you called it primary edge). The other bevel is a kireha and the primary bevel, according to these diagrams (you called it the secondary edge). Can you please explain which is correct? Is this a common misunderstanding?

Where can I get the felt belt and blue compound? 🤔

That knife is amazing! What a great size! You sure are good at this.

I’ll be honest that knife hasn’t seen nearly the use to warrant this. But hey what the customer wants right? You aren’t doing anything wrong …in fact you are doing a great job respecting The blacksmiths work but I find this completely senseless on the customers side of things. Like why acquire a Takeda knife? That said after sharpening again and again and again after much use and that angle becoming more and more severe I can absolutely get behind this kind of Thinning. As is though it feels like rushing the natural processes. But what do I know.

I can't tell you how many knife sharpening videos I have watched. Your teaching style has been hands down the best for me though, I have learned more from you than all the others together!

Fujiwara knives.... so expensive, but they sure can look rough! Scratches and even looking unfinished at times. Holy smokes - that looked amazing!

Wherecan I get one of those belt grinders?

i can‘t find anyone who is thinning knives here in switzerland, i have nakiri denka and santoku denka i want to thin out like this, love watching your vids…

That's very time consuming, really shows your dedication to your craft. I actually calculate the desired angles & build the tooling to ensure the desired result, but that also takes a lot of time.

Thank you for the helpful tutorial.

Thank you for a very helpful video.

I see you are using a soft platen there. Does this help with vibration?

Do you apply more pressure on the deburr? Sounded like it. I know little, BTW.

Hey man, what kind of belt grinder to you use, I see people using kalamazoo in the USA, I'm from Canada. Thanks for the video!. Cheers.

when on the felt, what angled you try and use?.......why blue.......? thanks

they call it blue super because it's a lazy and maybe perhaps intentional marketing driven mistranslation of what it actually is which is blue extra. extra what? Extra chippy is what I'd say, but really it's extra everything and then some. more carbon and more alloy. Despite what Americans are apt to believe blue "super" is not the highest grade among these traditional Japanese steels made by Hitachi. That would be blue #1. Ask Hitachi, they will tell you tell the same thing, in fact it's right on their website, and they would know since they're the ones who literally invented and produce these steels. Why is it better? Because it's more balanced and critically it's less brittle at high hardness, overall better suited to a kitchen knife. And the blue steels were actually specifically created for use in kitchen knives. White steel on the other hand was not, which is another misconception and myth. Smiths love white because it's extremely easy and cheaper to work with. Easier to forge and grind. Blue "super" aka blue extra and blue #2 are considered to be a step down from Blue #1. Why do you think blue extra is so common and even comes on knives that cost $100? Try to find a Blue #1 knife that costs $100. Good luck with that, you won't find it. It's only used on higher end knives and is much less common than the others. Now if we really want to get real and chap some bums in the process, American 52100 is objectively a VASTLY better steel for a kitchen knife than all of the above. It's every bit as fine grained and will have easily twice the toughness, aka vastly less prone to chipping, of the best of the bunch which as I said is blue #1 at 64+ hrc. As are all the more modern steels of course but 52100 is actually another low alloy steel like blue steel. Low alloy steel is often confused for carbon steel, like white steel, in common parlance among the less knowledgeable. Even ingot stainless steels like AEBL will great outperform any of those steels by a country mile. That doesn't it's bad or it's not enjoyable. I have a Denka that I ordered from Fujiwara and regrined myself. It's a very cool, if irrational, knife. Even white steel knives, which I generally do not recommend at all as the steel has nothing but downside when compared to blue steel for any double bevel knife, can be quite enjoyable.

I absolutely hate trying to sharpen my Condor kukri I do alright sharpening convex grinds but it's not fun

How about getting rid of that black stuff and the scratches on the upper half of the blade first? 😉

How much for regular Takeda sharpened to original spec (240)? How much for a reprofile (sharpened ma y times has “mezzaluna shape.’) and original scandi like grind on a 220 Takeda gyuto? How much to fix major chips and regrind sharpen Shibata 195 battleship gyuto? I want to send all in for service. Thank you

“This is AS not NAS so probably not as expensive” it’s actually the opposite. Also, I have a few Takedas to send for service! This is amazing work. Wow!