😂 if you struggle to eye up polaris using the finder, you need to learn to do squats. No joke, I had a sore neck issue a few years ago. And since that scare, I strength trained so I could squat without struggling, and can now easily make adjustments to the skywatcher SA 2i, without spending extra money on a replacement WO wedge for £200+
@emmaarcher4 ай бұрын
i'm not so sure. maybe it's the accent maybe you're setting it up in the northern hemisphere, but this video is lost on me.
@photonbucket4 ай бұрын
@@emmaarcher Hi Emma. North London upbringing and yes, northern hemisphere. There are way better options for goto solutions. This video is aimed at those who want to achieve a way of aiming at set coordinates, but are constrained by their current equipment level and budget.
@MilaBird-y7p4 ай бұрын
Hi Bob. Thanks for all the great tips! I particularly loved your idea of putting the top pano head of the Artcise MB52 on the SA dec mount, so I bought an MB52. However, I can't for the life of me get the top pano head off the ball head. It looks like it should come off with a hex key but I can't get it to budge. How did you manage to remove it? Any guidance would be much appreciated!
@photonbucket4 ай бұрын
@@MilaBird-y7p Hiya, thanks for watching. The MB52 is a nice bit of kit on its own. Unless they’ve changed the design (which I doubt) it is just an Allen key bolt holding the top down. I recall it was very tight. The top is held in place by two lugs. I’ll include a photo of the ball head with top removed. Good luck 🤞🏻
@photonbucket4 ай бұрын
www.dropbox.com/t/FstatBmv1f5iCN8S
@MilaBird-y7p4 ай бұрын
@@photonbucket Thank you! I'll keep trying.
@MilaBird-y7p4 ай бұрын
@@photonbucket Thanks for the photo. Did your MB52's top pano head have a silver disk with two notches around the Allen screw, or just the Allen screw itself?
@photonbucket4 ай бұрын
@@MilaBird-y7p Yes mine has the silver disk
@danielscholz41175 ай бұрын
Hi Bob, much appreciate your video here! Just a question re the Williams optics latitude base mount - there seem to be 2 versions available (low and high latitude range) - which one would be the right one to get? Thank you for your help. Cheers from Hong Kong
@photonbucket5 ай бұрын
@@danielscholz4117 Hi Daniel, In Hong Kong you will definitely need the low latitude version which will cover latitudes between 7 and 34 degrees.
@danielscholz41175 ай бұрын
@@photonbucket Thank you so much Bob. So when or for which location would I need to consider high altitude? As I am also going to Australia I wonder?
@photonbucket5 ай бұрын
@@danielscholz4117 You should only need the high latitude version if you’re going to the lower NSW regions. Basically once you move past the 34 degree latitude line, you’ll need the high latitude version.
@Y.Shishani6 ай бұрын
You should take measurements for the sensor position before removing the screws (how much they are tightened), so as not to lose focus ability of the camera if the sensor is wrongly positioned.
@photonbucket6 ай бұрын
I count the number of screw rotations to release each sensor plate screw. When returning the screws I add 3/5 of a turn to allow for the focus point difference after the sensor glass filter removal. I’ve done about six of these mods and achieved excellent focus each time.
@Y.Shishani6 ай бұрын
@@photonbucket And does the Autofocus work on both the screen and in the view finder as well?
@photonbucket6 ай бұрын
@@Y.Shishani To be honest it’s not something I usually check as I won’t be using the viewfinder for astrophotography. I modified my Canon 80D for Ha leaving the outer filter glass in place. To operate this as a standard camera I use an Original White Balance (OWB) clip filter. In this configuration focus is sharp including in the viewfinder.
@Y.Shishani6 ай бұрын
@@photonbucket Thanks for the useful information, I am trying to astro mod my Camera my self and has been searching the internet and I appreciate any help. I made a special contraption in order to accurately measure the positioning of the sensor based on a dial depth gauge with accuracy of plus or minus 0.03mm.
@photonbucket6 ай бұрын
@@Y.Shishani make sure that you know which type of sensor plate you have. Some camera models use shims to adjust the sensor position. I haven’t seen anywhere to source these shims, so if you are modifying this type, be aware that you will not be able to use it with a camera lens or for normal photography other than by live view manual focus.
@kevinashley4787 ай бұрын
When i finished filling in the chart with my numbers, it didnt end exactly on my 12 hour date, of Jan 10th. In fact, the 12 on the chart was Jan 14.... Is that ok?
@photonbucket7 ай бұрын
Hi Kevin. Should be fine. Remember this is only a rough guide to get you in the ballpark. Minor adjustments may still be necessary in real world shooting to zero in on your target
@kevinashley4787 ай бұрын
@@photonbucket Great! I am still a little confused on which way to turn, but practice should remedy that. I just got my first telescope, and Apertura 60/360, so i am hoping it works with that.
@aaparky70398 ай бұрын
Some useful information here. Thank you, peace and love from Aberdeen
@RobsDIY8 ай бұрын
Awesome vid, with the date dial etc I’m confused why you actually even need it, I’m in Australia, and if I’ve polar aligned with with octans/ sharp cap what’s the dial used for ? Cheers!
@photonbucket8 ай бұрын
Hiya, Not sure which bit you’re referring to, but as you’ve mentioned polar alignment, I’m guessing that. Initially the dial is used to rotate the polar scope into the correct orientation for polar alignment by eye (This video is aimed at those on a tight budget, who don’t have sharpcap or other polar alignment wizardry). Later, the dial is used to identify the right ascension (RA) angle for easier location of the deep sky target you are searching for. Of course, if you are only doing widefield landscape astrophotography, or your target is clearly observable in the sky, all of that is unnecessary. Hope this answered your question.
@RobsDIY8 ай бұрын
@@photonbucket awesome thank you! This will come in dhandy for deep stuff as I’ve always wondered how to located these Cheers
@kevinashley4788 ай бұрын
18:16 where did you get the reminder sticker that is on the mount, with yellow and green and white blocks? I can make out "Object Calculation Positive -" but i cant make out the rest.
@photonbucket8 ай бұрын
Hi Kev. I can’t remember if I got this from a KZbin video or made it up myself (Sorry not helpful). I don’t have a copy anymore. It is just a reminder for me for how to calculate the declination rotation angle (clockwise or anti-clockwise) based on whether your target HA is past the Meridian or not.
@kevinashley4788 ай бұрын
Hey. I am back with another question. I am gonna give it another go, trying to sort out the goto upgrade. At 11:20 what ball head did you use to get that component that you added for better declination adjustment? What screw did you use?
@photonbucket8 ай бұрын
Hi Kev. The ball head was an Artcise MB52. The bolt I had in stock. Unsure of the size and thread pitch off the top of my head.
@vintagenerd559 ай бұрын
Excellent video. I'm a newbie to astrophotography. I just purchased this tracker. Your are SO right about the base. My problem is with the azimuth control knobs. Precision they are not! I turn the knobs forward, nothing happens. I turn them both backwards, nothing happens. They just snug up quickly and the platform doesn't turn. I loosen the set screws and the platform turns in a herky-jerky fashion. Can't believe one has to loosen set screws just to adjust the azimuth. Once the screws are loosened even slightly, the entire base is sloppy on that axis. Tech Support was of no help. Their comment to me was: "it just a basic tracking platform"; I guess implying that it's low budget, made like crap and not to expect too much from it. That was my take-away from that comment. I hope the 2i body performs better. That battery cover, really! Doesn't seem like it would've been a technical challenge to design a cover that doesn't come off so easily. I believe I'll look into your suggestion regarding the William Optics base. Thank you sir!
@photonbucket9 ай бұрын
Hi, thank you for your comment. With the azimuth control knobs, you need to turn them in opposite directions. You mention turning them both forward which should be correct as one will be turning clockwise and one anti- clockwise. They are basically just two bolts tightening onto a central peg. You need to loosen one, before you can tighten the other further thus moving the mount. If the mount is sloppy when you release those bolts you should tighten the two dome headed vertical bolts on the base to take out that slack. These should be only nipped up not fully tightened otherwise the mount will not move. Good luck. It is a very good mount to start off with and I would suggest getting to grips with it before deciding to spend more cash upgrading. 👍🏻
@dw.in.michigan11 ай бұрын
Great tips. Thank you! I had seen Kamil's video on printing the scale. One thing I would add to your instructions and his is to make sure it's prints the correct size. The instructions give some guidance, but there's room for error. The way I worked it out was, like you, first find the 90 degree points around the perimeter, and I marked and notched them with a utility knife. Then I wrapped blank paper around and marked on the paper. Then I measured those marks and rescaled the image into a Word document with the ruler guides, making sire the 0, 90 and 0 degree marks lined up where I calculated them to be. I particularly appreciated your tip about the polar scope illuminator. I have the tape, and I also bought a 3D printed glow in the dark insert, which works really well, but I'm anxious to try to fix the illuminator... if I didn't toss it. I liked your solution on modifying the mount on the dec bracket. I had done something similar by mounting a panning base with an Arca clamp, but it was a bit bulky. Yours is a lot more trim. I'd like to find something like that, but stick with my current overall solution - I attached a Leofoto quick change receiver, so I can still use a panning base, or I can install an additional ball head or two-way head if I want. It makes for a more modular design and I can easily poach from my other camera gear without having to screw and unscrew things. I've had the William Optics EQ base on my wish list for quite a while. The clutch on my Sky-Watcher base got stuck and I couldn't tighten it, so I switched to a heavy duty two-way tilt and pan head with 5 degree markings for tilt. However, I recently came across another video where one guy showed how to create and insert plastic shim washers into the Sky-Watcher base so that you don't get that movement you talked about, but it also solved my problem of the clutch being stuck, so I have use of it again. It always perplexed me why that clutch and its innards are plastic, while the rest of the base is all metal, except for the spirit level. Very odd design. Thanks again! Very informative.
@photonbucket11 ай бұрын
Hi, thanks for the response. I’ve also since seen the video about the base washers which makes perfect sense. Having moved over to the William Optics base, I haven’t bothered to investigate further. Glad you got something out of the video.
@subzero935511 ай бұрын
just asking why not replacing a clear glass over the sensor?
@photonbucket11 ай бұрын
Hi, thanks for the question. The addition of a replacement clear glass filter is a very good idea. Sourcing a correct thickness and specification piece of glass is not easy and I could only find one internationally. The added expense and timescale was a game changer for me as I was doing this on a tight budget.
@GwonkReefkeeping11 ай бұрын
Absolutely magnificent job!
@mickyovts387211 ай бұрын
So im in the process of doing "the astro mod" on my 450d, its going to be q "naked sensor" as i cant afford the money for a filter for it, and i started thinking would a clear piece plastic sheeting work if i was to put it were one of the filters were to stop the dust getting at it, you know like the clear sheeting from say a kids toy box from a shop that lets you see inside the packaging, you know what i mean ??, or is it better to leave it naked, kinda worried about it because i cant afford a 50 quid filter, so deffo couldnt afford a new camera if it was to get dust or something in it.
@photonbucket11 ай бұрын
Hi, thanks for the comment. Definately do not try and put a piece of plastic film in front of the sensor. It will ruin your images. It’s either a proper piece of glass or nothing imo. I have left mine bare and it’s fine. My 600d has been a bare sensor for a couple of years now without any issue. Just take the usual precautions to keep it clean and you’ll be fine. I have used a sensor cleaning kit (off Amazon) on a bare sensor and it worked fine, although I wouldn’t recommend it and you have to be very careful. Leave it bare, don’t get it dusty, and enjoy it 👍🏻
@irandar Жыл бұрын
One more point: Stellarium and other apps (Pushtocam and FinderCam) will give the Alt-Az for any object at your time and location. In addition, I have been using a compass and digital inclinometer to line my mount up with the target. Pretty good for short focal lengths.
@irandar Жыл бұрын
Great effort on this video. I have the SA mini and will be working on how to attach a smart phone with an astro finder feature to the mount. I think AstroHopper will work for Android and for iPhone, Pushtocam and FinderCam. I have made a video on both and am quite sure both will be great in finding your target.
@edwardroms Жыл бұрын
Wedge or Mount Base Fix -- I took apart the base and in the clutch found two different plastic washer thicknesses, one was 0.01" the other was 0.02". I added another 0.01" made out of plastic(mylar) to the short side and now the clutch is fixed, does not have the spring over when tightened down. If you measure the gap between the two white pieces it is about 0.785", and the thickness of the black piece with the gear teeth is 0.744" which leaves 0.041" for the plastic washers. From the factory one washer is 0.01" thick looks like mylar, the other is 0.2" looks like polyethylene, adds to 0.03" thick but leaves 0.011" of slack. To fully clamp down the clutch has to go another 0.01" and pushes the black part over, causing the misalignment. I cut the washer out of thin (0.01") sheet mylar, it doesn't have to be pretty, then put it in, the washers add to 0.04" with 0.001 slack and now the problem seems entirely gone. I used a little tape to pre-position the washers onto the black part, while inserting it back into the white part, and brought the washer hole down on the other side with a pen. So I think it is a factory error, a wrong size washer. I also put two wraps of teflon pipe tape on the three adjustment screws, as they were still side to side loose when fully in, indicating over etching on the Alu part. Smooth as silk and tight now. I left the main screw alone. If you can adjust the height with the clutch fully on, then you probably have an undersized washer.
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
Fantastic information. Thank you for this very detailed explanation and remedy 👍🏻
@edwardroms Жыл бұрын
typo in above => " 0.2" polyethylene" should be " 0.02" polyethylene " Love your videos Bob!
@Doyle69 Жыл бұрын
Was given a 1100D for free today, has a faulty sensor, images are all pinks lines or made of multiple boxes of pink lines. After watching this, I think I'll buy a new sensor and give it after watching this video. Thanks
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
You may find the cost of a new sensor prohibitively expensive. If you can find another cheap donor, that would be the way to go.
@Doyle69 Жыл бұрын
@@photonbucket Found one for £20 inc pnp taken from a 2nd hand camera. Before ordering im going to take the camera apart so i Know I can tear it down and put back fine and not waste £20 on something I cant install. I love to tinker, but never have with a camera. Your video was very informative on how to do so!
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
@@Doyle69 Excellent. Good luck with it.
@Doyle69 Жыл бұрын
@@photonbucket Thank you, if I get stuck, I know which video to come back too 🤗
@FunAndGames963 Жыл бұрын
What can I say... First, your video close-ups are just too shaky. If you go through the trouble to hack your Star Adventure for more stable mounting and alignment, you should apply some stability practices to your videography as well. Secondly, your Star Adventure mount is slightly out of focus throughout the whole video. Considering this is a video about the Star Adventurer, it should fill more that 1/6th of your video frame. The Star Adventurer is only reason everyone is watching this video and yet it is literally the smallest item in the video frame. Thirdly, there is some sort of overhead glare washing over everything or maybe your camera lens is dirty. It is hard for me to watch you talk about precision astrophotography mounts when there is on precision in your how-to video. This is probably why you have 12K in views but only 361 likes. You lost me at the shaky video footage. Considering I see that you took the time to edit this video, you could've edited in more stable footage with sharper close-ups too. You will probably delete this critique from your video feed, and that's okay, but I hope you apply my criticisms to your future video products.
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
Wow! Super critical crtiique. Thanks for the feedback. I don't pretend to be a KZbin star, and am certainly not comfortable in front of the camera. Take me or leave me as I am. I'm not here for the likes, just to spread a little information. I doubt I'll be taking on board any of your well intentioned advice as life is too short. Stop by for another shaky video when I can be bothered to spent my time putting something together. Till then, I wish you clear skies and good health.
@naegeleh Жыл бұрын
very informative - thanks a lot!!!
@joseribeiro9564 Жыл бұрын
i have just ditched the clutch screw and replaced with a regular screw with locking nut, i just dont release it and stays with same high friction, its still adjustable
@kevinashley478 Жыл бұрын
What method did you use to figure out the dates? also, you said you did yours in 10 minute increments, yet i am not able to get the dates to match up.
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
Hi Kevin. I think I understand your question. Once you have your start date which you’ll have by reading off the date scale when you have the RA axis horizontal and level. You’ll need to be 6 months later in date for the horizontal position 180 degrees from the start position, which needs to correspond to 12 hours in time (1/2 a day needs to equal 1/2 a year) 12 hrs in time divided into 10 min segments = 72. 182 days (6 months) / 72 = 2.53. So each 10 minute change in Hour Angle will equate to a change of 2.53 days on the scale. Just work forward from your start date by 2.53 days for each 10 minutes and round up or down to the nearest whole number (day).
@kevinashley478 Жыл бұрын
@@photonbucket oh ok. If my current idea doesnt work, then ill try that. I am going out tonight to test a theory that if i set my level 0, which for me is July 14, i can then turn the date dial to match the date at the beginning of Kamil's video of the date rotation, then i should be able to use his video to give me the date needed based on the hour and minutes.
@ridealongwithrandy Жыл бұрын
Another good tip from my photography is to hang a backpack full of rocks off of the tripod, this will make it almost "tripod leg kick" proof. Also makes for an even sturdier platform. I also use an angle finder from my Minolta film cam that lets me look more comfortably and MoveShootMove makes the bracket, also MSM makes a laser kit for the Star Adventurer. great tip on the Williams Optics EQ base, I really do not like the Star Adventurer base at all. So many good ideas!!! I need to get a move on. Cheers!
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
Sage advice Randy. Thanks for the comments
@kevinashley478 Жыл бұрын
Hello Bob. Great video! So, my dates are different. I got 0 = Jully 12 and 12 = Jan 10 Why does it seem as though everyone is getting different dates? If you set the marker to 0, and you are simply leveling the green bar, shouldnt they be the same? Also, if I pull up your chart in excel and enter my 2 dates, will it populate the rest of the dates automatically?
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
Hi Kevin, To be honest, I’m not sure of the answer to the first part of your question. I can only assume it’s down to manufacture. In any case it doesn’t make any difference to the outcome. With regard to the spreadsheet, you will have to insert your own data by hand. This is because you are entering a date equivalent of the passage of time. As some months have 30 days, some 31, and one has 28 or 29 (the spreadsheet assumes 28), the start point will dictate how the fields are populated. My advice is to find your start date that corresponds to 0 minutes, then move on from there by the number of days that my spreadsheet changes. This will be two or three. The reason this changes is that it’s a nearest round number approach to converting 720 minutes (12 hours) into 6 months by date. Hope that makes sense.
@kevinashley478 Жыл бұрын
@@photonbucket oh ok... great, more math...lol. How do we account for leap years?
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
@@kevinashley478 We don’t. Or more accurately I don’t. This is a get you in the ballpark concept, so just adjust by the odd day to get the result you need
@kevinashley478 Жыл бұрын
@@photonbucket Could you do a video on how to accurately place the degree strip, mainly how to find the exact point where the 90 degree mark should be for greatest accuracy? My assumption is that the dates won't matter if your declination degree strip isn't in the exact spot.
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
@@kevinashley478 It’s a fair assumption. From memory, I believe I just positioned the base plate on a level surface with the rotator facing upwards. I then used a right angle 📐 passing through the bolt hole centre to identify the point at the top of the rotator which I marked. This is the point where the 90° mark should align. The trick is to make sure that the scale is printed out at the correct length, so that the -90 and +90 marks are then correctly positioned. For this, I measured the diameter of the rotator and used the equation 0.5(2πR) to find the length of half of the circumference. I then printed out the scale, measured its length, worked out what percentage of that length I needed and printed again, instructing the printer to adjust the size by that percentage.
@twaceyable Жыл бұрын
Lovely video and amazing photos. Thanks for sharing them.
@Chorge1972 Жыл бұрын
Tried so hard to get the formula..... COULD YOU PLEASE HELP ME AND OFFER ME A TABLE WITH MY DATES? For my unit, 0 is Jan 10th, and 12 is June 12th
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
Working on it
@Chorge1972 Жыл бұрын
@@photonbucket THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
@@Chorge1972 Starting on Jan 10th, your 12 hr position should be JULY 12th. 180 degrees opposite Jan 10th on the SA scale. Chart here - drive.google.com/file/d/13LxhvmJK6273yhxuQqzeZBz7RasKHqcw/view?usp=share_link
Dear @bobcoastro - yesssss 🎉 it seems to work!! At least at home, simulating everything with my phone and Stellarium! When I adjust all according to the coordinates, the lense really seems to point on my target! Tried it with 3 different target - and it worked on all of them. They are all in the frame, that Stellarium shows for my cam system. I really guess, it will work as well out there in real world… hopefully the sky clears up and I can test it tonight on the simple America-Nebula target…
@Chorge1972 Жыл бұрын
Tried it… my values on the scale are completely different from yours… is this normal????
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
Quite likely. The proof is in the operation. If you find yourself pointing at the wrong piece of sky, you’ve gone wrong somewhere 😊
@Chorge1972 Жыл бұрын
@@photonbucket but I really wonder… my Polarscope is in the same place as it should be. So I Wonder why my zero position is more than one hour off compared to yours. Are the formulas in the fields of your excel sheet? So I could insert my firs number, and than it will calculate all? If not, I will slowly try to understand your calculations and build my own table… Thank you so much for that helpful video! Great job!! 👍
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
@@Chorge1972 There are no formulas in my spreadsheet, just data. I must admit I haven’t used my SA to Goto a target for some time, having upgraded to an EQ6-RPro so I sometimes have difficulty remembering all the steps I go through in the video here. If you’ve followed all the steps correctly, it will work. A good friend of mine locally started with different readings, but then calculated from there and it all worked fine for him, so don’t worry if you have a different start date. Each entry in the chart changes sometimes by 2 days, sometimes 3 as it’s a ‘nearest whole number’ approximation. If you start at your 0 HA position and follow the pattern of 2 or 3 day changes for each 10 minutes of HA change, you’ll be right. As I say, it’s not exact, but you’ll be pointing at the right piece of sky.
@Chorge1972 Жыл бұрын
Mega!!!
@kevinashley478 Жыл бұрын
7:08 Im sorry....did you just spin that head around??? Sir, i need to know how you did that...
@kevinashley478 Жыл бұрын
4:52 LMAO....i didnt even know you had to turn the battary cap to turn it off. I just always have turned the brightness down to 0. I thought the ON and OFF arrows were just to let me know how to remove the cap.....yep, a regular einstein here.
@karlisberzins9476 Жыл бұрын
Concerning your Nikon connection problem, it sounds like a bad cable problem. Have you checked the cable? I am using Canon myself. I experienced connection issues, NINA could not see the cam due to a bad (visually perfect) USB cable. Changing the cable solved my problem. On the other hand, I have successfully used that imperfect cable for other devices.
@axford696969 Жыл бұрын
This is absolutely exceptional, thank you Sir!
@shadowboy813 Жыл бұрын
I decided on a slightly different approach to setting declination. You already have part of it here, in your video--you need only a panoramic base that has degree markings. The one I have has 4 dots, 90 degrees apart. After doing a polar alignment, I get my camera roughly pointed at the celestial pole, and set the panoramic base so that 90 degrees is indicated. I then loosen the RA clutch and take a 10 second exposure while swinging the camera for most of a circle. The image will tell you where the RA center is. Then I use the fine adjustment knob to get the center of that circle as close to the center of the image as possible. And then leave it for the rest of the session. After this, I use the panoramic base to set declination, and hour angle to set RA. Then I refine polar alignment. My panoramic base has markings every 2.5 degrees, which is close enough that I've gotten my image in frame on the first try at 400mm focal length (400mm on a DX Nikon camera is about 3.3 degrees by 2.2 degrees FoV).
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
I’m trying to picture what you’re describing but my brain won’t work. Must be tired. Glad you’ve found something that works for you. This hobby certainly has the ability to tax the little grey cells.
@jbflores01 Жыл бұрын
I bought a Minolta right angle viewer for a SLR and glued a plastic film canister to it. Cut open one end. Slides over polar scope! Works great!
@PortugalCarp Жыл бұрын
Why don't companies like Star Adventurer offer Right Angle Viewfinders for their Polar aligners?
@willdobson79 Жыл бұрын
Excellent tutorial 😊
@barnaclewatcher4060 Жыл бұрын
Outstanding job of explaining something that is less than intuitive for someone just starting out such as myself. Thank you very much! Just got my Star Adventurer and had some success with the more obvious objects like Orion and the Pleiades but recently attempted M51 but instead of the Whirlpool Galaxy, I spent the night photographing the binary star Cor Caroli.. Ha! Live and learn as they say. Today with the help of your video, I think I learned something. Next chance, I'll attempt your well instructed method of using my printed declination scale and HA chart to find it.... hopefully.
@earthling-fh2mg Жыл бұрын
Bob, just watched a couple of your vids, got to this one and see you were planning to do a lot more this year but it’s now nearly May. Hope everything’s ok? Enjoyed the star adventurer tips having just bought one.
@jamesyang2138 Жыл бұрын
That thermometer setup is genius!😂
@albertogmail8017 Жыл бұрын
Fantásticos consejos
@timothytapio4252 Жыл бұрын
where did you get the Williams Optics base? I didn't see it on their site..but I may have missed it.
@photonbucket Жыл бұрын
Hi Timothy, you don't say where you are based. I'm in the UK and I got mine here - www.widescreen-centre.co.uk/william-optics-vixen-style-equatorial-wedge-red.html Also available from First Light Optics & Rother Valley Optics
@sylvestersnet Жыл бұрын
i have seen on ebay a fiber optic attachment that clips on to selection dial the red light runs from the dial through the fiber optic to an attachment that clops in to front polar hole. no batteries
@shaunsprogress2 жыл бұрын
Nearly 1/12 of January down and I've had 2 nights out. Both nearly smoked out with so many people burning coal and log burners in this crappy town. Let's hope for some better weather! As a note, perhaps shorted your into to one animation, and the outro is pretty loud and unnecessary. Just my opinion!
@DaveUrbanAstro2 жыл бұрын
Looking for a great 2023. Hope your year is a great as planned! CS.
@photonbucket2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Dave. You too my friend 😊
@ianmacdonald23072 жыл бұрын
Happy New Year Bob. I’ve enjoyed what I’ve seen so far 👍
@photonbucket2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Ian. It can only get better 👍🏻
@AstroOnBudget2 жыл бұрын
Good on you Bob! Hope you have a fantastic year!
@jchristie2542 жыл бұрын
Happy new year Bob. I'm eagerly awaiting my canon 80d and samyang 135mm lens to arrive so I can get started myself.