@@TheHat1607 sounds real heavy duty!

@@johnprosser2142 yea, I noticed that too. It also won’t let you use specialty fonts.

@@jackwelch480 thanks - I thought it was a cool/fun sign!

@@dalarchobby I’m sorry, I don’t quite understand. The top and bottom are the same OD as the frame OD

OK 👍 watching the video i only see the outline cuts for the 4 frames for the coffin. Bottom and top looks like they are to small for the frame on the video as they are Inside the coffin frame . I guessing those are made later. Looks Amazing 🌟.

@@dalarchobby thank you so much!

@@NineFingersDesign Sure. To be honest, the only limitation, even with a trim router like I have (but you could install a spindle ) - is the integrity of the bit itself. I had this going at 150 ipm, I forgot to tighten the collet because I’m an idiot - it dropped 90% out of the collet so it was plowing through 3/4” oak and about 1/2” MDF of my spoilboard - seemingly no problem. Those ball screws are invincible

Many thanks!!! ​@@SJSSawdust

@@kevinrich4637 thanks. I could put a bag in and have definitely thought of that. I got the dust right in an attempt as quick and cheap-ish solution, but now that I added the cyclone and the hassle of cleaning it the old way, I should have just gotten the same Jet that I have running my other tools - it hums at a much more tolerable frequency and the pleated filter comes off with 4 thumb screws for easy cleaning, but the motor intake is on the ground so I would have needed some customization anyways… blah blah blah. I’m rambling

@@SJSSawdustregardless of your setup, if you are able to reduce the air speed without reducing air VOLUME, you can make an excellent homemade dust /chip separation system. I plan on using expanded metal mesh to make fins extending downward into the path of airflow which causes the solids to lose propulsion and drop. Grease traps and solids interceptors use this method in water to separate grease and solids from the outflow.

@@liquidrockaquatics3900 good idea. Off the wall question here, judging by your username- do you do work with aquariums or ponds? You were talking about making your own pieces of a system, I had a large fresh water aquarium and my favorite part of the whole thing was making my own wet/dry sump

@@SJSSawdust aquariums. I was a plumber by trade and previously, so dealing with water chemistry and all 🤷‍♂️

@@johnnyking3894 thanks. I used a 1/4” end mill for clearance and a 30* v bit for all the detail

@@kevinrich4637 appreciate it - thanks!

@@LutzCnC thanks!

@@kevinrich4637 thanks for the comment and tips … maybe I was being too aggressive with the stick. I’m thinking of picking up a vacuum pot since I feel like I’m becoming obsessed with epoxy. Lol. I usually carve .2” for both and find that the 30* v bit gives the most detail

⁠I use a 30 as well. I forgot to say after the final pour is cured I will use a 1/4 bit and do a pass on the whole project at 0.005. Enough to get all the over pour but deep enough to show the clean lines. Also, the reason I do the 0.12 and 0.11 is that it leaves the 0.01 to maintain a good seal to help with bubbles. I enjoy watching your work!

@@kevinrich4637 more great tips! I had an issue a while ago where I carved something, poured it and then surfaced it down with a planer or whatever, but then I wanted to stain the wood, so I just stained the whole project and the stain got into all the micro bubbles, so the white in the design looked light brown. I wasn’t happy. So I wonder if your method of carving down when it’s finished, doing a partial flood coat to seal the white, then surface down again will fill those tiny bubbles. I haven’t tried to stain since…. Again, a vacuum pot would solve this…

@@gibawatts in light burn, on the “console” tab there’s a button for “fire”

@@SJSSawdust Not recommended for CO2 lasers. You should really had left all the controls and an Amp meter, you are going to burn that tube out quick

@@nickm324 This controller was sent to me from Monport themselves and I haven’t had any problems yet… hopefully others have had the same experience

@@bobmonday925 you are far too kind! Thanks for the support !

@@rodneycarpenter3253 I agree. I love having ball screws and no need for belts and tensioning

@@mariomartinez5088 not too long - I’d say 45 minutes, but that could definitely change based on your machines recommended speeds and feeds

@@kimberlyadams4446 thanks! I usually “cut” at 15 in/min and then just vary the passes depending on the hardness of the wood. Pine is less passes, Oak is more. Make sure your focus is set correctly and that your lens cover is clean - I found that, that can get built up in “pitch” or residue from the cutting process

@@SJSSawdust Thank you so much! I have Oak on the way so I can try again.

@@kimberlyadams4446 no problem- hopefully you can get your machine dialed in!

@@johnfraboni I was really that the geometry worked out ! I’ve since improved on the design and I like it even more!

@@SJSSawdust how so? Any improvements to the hinges, their setup or installation?

@@johnfraboni the overall design is more rounded, looks less chunky. I did find some better hinges that are 5mm (so a bit more robust) and look bette too - just overall higher quality. 😀

@@user_16309 I am not affiliated whatsoever with Onefinity - so my opinion is mine alone. This machine is awesome. I couldn’t ask for anything more. Even more, now that they have the new controller, that is so much more capable than mine - it’s even more of a no brainer.

@@jodycarter thanks! The struggle is real, but I do it because I’m addicted to CNC

@@emostorm7 thanks! They say necessity is the mother of all …..CNC brackets. Or something like that. Lol.

@@congruewoodworks1474 thanks so much! As far as software goes, I think as long as you can create g-code, the Onefinity can read it. I started off using Easel, and now I use VCarve

@@jeffdeluca1153 Thanks. This is the original journeyman model ( 32” x 32” ) and, yes I use the wireless Onefinity controller - it works perfectly well.

@@paulrcreech7731 thank you so much!

@@paulrcreech7731 in the description, there should be a link to my Etsy page so you can pick the file up

@@paulrcreech7731 thanks! I was very happy how it turned out!

@@GeekRedux thanks for the tips. If I were cutting this out of one large piece, let’s say padauk, from my experience, this would be very costly - I find it much cheaper to buy smaller pieces or, better yet, use off-cuts from past projects. Even more important than that, there is a lot of stored up tension in large slabs of wood. That tension will be released as these are cut and will almost certainly lead to cupping/warping that will lead to sub par results or could easily damage your end mill or CNC. If these were out of plywood, MDF or particle board - I would definitely nest 6 or 8 trays on one sheet and set my file up accordingly

@@SJSSawdust Okay, yeah, you make a good point about the stress in a large sheet. Maybe a plywood or mdf jig could allow you to lay out a dozen or so trays at a time? I guess I'm just getting unreasonably frustrated seeing that CNC being used to do a job that could be done with a benchtop 3018 lol

I agree

Thank you so much! I’m very happy with how it came out

Hello, thanks for watching! As far as the file goes, the middle “slot” should be 1/4” or just larger to accommodate the 1/4” nylon bolts. The washers should be 1/2” OD. I just clicked all the links and they all seem to be working well.

@@SJSSawdust thank you for he info

@@SJSSawdust i used a 1/4 em mill for the middle slot and its way to wide for the 1/2 od washer .what could i have done wrong

@@josephlanglois8073 if I had to guess, I’d say that you set that slot to cut “outside” instead of “on” so instead of just doing basically one line, you doubled the width of the slot

Thanks a lot, and I appreciate it!

Thanks. This is the etsy link from the seller I purchased it from www.etsy.com/listing/775860984/

Thank you sir.👍🏽

Yes - In order to use any of the special features in Easel, a subscription is required.

@@SJSSawdust I am sorry, but for someone who is not making money with wood working, but just a hobby, I cannot see 24 dollars a month just to use a V bit as anything but a rip off. Easel is also the worst piece of software I have used in years. I wish I had never purchased an x-carve

Thanks - it’s worked out great so far!

Thanks for watching - I excel at the simple things in life….

Haha. Thanks - I’ll assume that’s good

I will DEFINITELY look that up - thanks! And YES, use your Onefinity more . I find myself cutting stuff that I don’t really even need, I just want to use it. Lol

@@SJSSawdust My problem is very similar to yours and that it's in my garage and Midwest winters are not my friend lol. That and I have a bunch of lasers that I've been using a ton so they've kind of pulled me away lately. 😉

@@misury that’s awesome. What do you have? I have the x tool d1, just recently attached the rotary, so that’s been fun to mess around with

@@SJSSawdust I have the Xtool P2, the Xtool F1, a creality falcon 10 watt and then the 14 watt on my onefinity woodworker. Then of course to complete the makerspace I have bambu X1 carbon. I might have a problem. 🤣

@@misury doesn’t sound like a problem to me! I was eyeing the F1 ( still am) and I would love a 3D printer. There’s so many great creators out there that make awesome files for the printers - stuff that can be used in the workshop… seems kinda dumb NOT to get one….

I used a 1/4” ball nose. The smaller diameter the ball nose, the more detailed it will be!

Hmmmm, you say that - yet you watched the entire video…. I think somebody liked it ….

Yeah - Thanks!

Thanks for watching!

Yes! Those are great ones- thanks!

Thanks! I definitely understand that - maybe I need to be a little more diligent on my cleaning ….

@@SJSSawdust - a wire brush might help with that. :)

If you use the net style discs like shown in this video you absolutely will get sawdust all up in the hook and loop. I just bang it against the table to clear most of it out. I have never had it cause micro scratches like said in the video though.

@@CarlYota - some fine sawdust? Sure. But, all that junk he showed in the video? Never. And yes, I use the same type sandpaper.

Belt sander paper isn’t “velcro” backed, so it wouldn’t stick to the foam block. Plus, the wooden block feels so much better in the hand

@@SJSSawdust 🤦‍♂️ I forgot about the velcro part

Imagine the cost of the 3M factory that mass-produces the foam crap

Ha - that's what I was thinking. But I think something similar could be done with a router table maybe. And some regular sandpaper. Both the foam sandpaper and the hook and loop are kind of expensive. Regular sheet sandpaper is expensive enough lately!

@@MarkSWilliams27 yea, I agree. Everything is through the roof. If you have a bunch of the paper sheets, search John Heinz- he made a pretty cool block that uses the paper sheets, works well. I made a set of those about a year ago and use those as well

Thanks. John Heinz made a video on a 1/4 sheet holder, I made a set of those about a year ago as well. My hands don’t grip the way they used to, so I found using this style that allows the block to be propelled by my palm seems to be easier on hand fatigue than trying to grip a block with my fingers. Thanks for watching!

I did not, I actually purchased that from a store

@@SJSSawdust Figured that from the start. Was wondering how you built it..