Thank you very much ❤❤❤❤

Very good video. But as an observation. I would have given the data on the spark plug gap.

Thanks 05 xc70

How soon would they need to be done after the check engine light comes on?

M Reclined. where is the fuel pressure sensor location on this car. thanks!

Your top view is too far away, needs to zoom on the engine. and the music is annoying!

Awesome. Thanks!

What tools did you use ?

Man, i went to a dealer they told me that they need to order special tool to be able to open the coil pads 😂

I’m not going to lie that bottom fitting messed with me for a minute. Always take pictures 😊😊

Good video.. but what a pain in the azz just to R&R plugs.

and even worse the injectors are under there too, and there are 8 of them. i think of them on my moms 2018 Micra has gone bad cause there is a misfire on 4 and I've already replaced the plugs and coils. I found that the bracket for the wire harness was installed on the car wrong as there was a tab from it left between the intake manifold and the engine potentially causing a vacuum leak from factory.

Do you know if the Chinese Turbo is still working in the Mazda 3 - please give us a 4 year follow up!

My motor is very weak and I might need a new one. Do you know if I can buy the motor itself without the regulator? And where if you find one.

This is informative as SHIT, I mean it in a good way. I am struggling with a Volvo xc70 and this Volvo help SO MUCH. Thank you. Volvo is a pain in the ass but atlest it is not German made over engendered nightmare, it is just a Sweden bad dream to work on.

Como se llaman los bujes ósea para comprarlos

I just did this job after watching this video. Unless there is a lot of rust you really don't need to cut the old bushing out. All I did was push the center of the old torn bushing out. Then lined the new bushing up to it (i.e. your pushing the new bushing from the back towards the front of the car). The center part of the new bushing which sticks out sits inside the hole left from pushing the old bushings center out. use a slight wider sleeve from a bushing sleeve pulling kit (say 62mm) on the other side of the cross member frame and pull away. I used the M14 Bolts and nuts which came with the Puller kit. Do not use anything small than an M12 as the forces will snap the bolt. I Pulled the new Bushing in while pushing the old one out in one single step. spray a bit of lube onto the bushings to help it out. Use a proper sleeve pulling kit and don't waste your time stuffing around with a Saw. These kits have specialized long nuts with built in bearings which allow you to apply huge amounts of torque needed to do this type of job. The Sleeves will prevent the bottoming out issue with the center part of the bushing which sticks out. My 28 Piece Bushing/Bearing push Pull Sleeve kit cost $60USD and was worth every penny. Paid it self off with this one job and I can use it for a tone of other jobs. I'm not going to lie, this job was tough but using the right tools made it a lot easier than what you went through. The tough part being turning that wrench with the puller kit was exhausting.

hi friend, can you please tell me what tools are needed to do this job? i have a 2014 versa too

This video gave me motivation to finish the job i started on. Thank you!! Had so much problems getting the new bushing in...

I feel your pain dude....

@MechanicallyReclined, any advice on how to remove the very end of that long PCV tube? There's very little clearance in there!

Did this end up leaking on you, or did you get it patched properly later? I dont think the kit comes with instructions and I followed a chrisfix youtube short that did not use any rubber cement. I know I watched a different vid in the past where the person did not use rubber cement either. Just curious since step by step guides online say to use rubber cement if it was provided. I'm going to get a proper patch like we are supposed to regardless.

Great, thanks mate!!! Really helpful and informative!

Credit where its due. Thats a lengthy job. Ill leave it to a professional mechanic if i ever needed it done. How ir why does rhe PCV valve clog up and whag is its main function?

Can this part still be bought?

Thanx doing mine for the first time on my own Usually had lube and go do it but thought I could with ur help on the basic TIA

what tool did you use to press them? where did you get it?

I did this and kept losing the pcv bolts into the fucking pit of hell to the left of the pcv. Was a pain in the ass. And on my PCV I actually didn't need a hose clamp on the right-side hose. Only had to use a hose clamp on the block connection and not the pcv one, but it seemed to be integrated into the PCV while your tube was separate. And yes you put on the aluminum thing on correctly, I was also worried about that one at first.

For all you kids trying to attempt this in your parents garage run down to your autoparts store and buy a tail pipe removal tool and use either an air hammer or a ball peen and you will cut thru the bushing shell fast enough that he will still be on his first bushing when your finished ..

I can see the pcv valve on this is located by the side of the valve cover and connected via a hose to the Intake manifold. On mine pcv valve is located by the side of valve cover and it’s connected via a hose back to the valve cover. Do you this could cause oil going into the intake manifold always

Thank you so much for your help. Job Complete on 2001 Subaru Outback. NOTE: grinding the edge of the bushing you are pushing into the hole helps make it seat. Grind at a steep angle about 3/16" in from rim.

Witch year?

Best instruction video ever,birds eye view and detailed explains ..thank you for the great easy to see and understand video.

What size socket?

So yeah there's a metal gasket between thermostat housing and block.if you end up pulling housing ( beginner way) the advanced way is the way you did it- I removed and cleaned both sides of the gasket then put a tiny bead of black gasket maker and never had problems .....what I did was the ghetto way and actually cleaned the entire box and orifices w acetone! It worked killer!!!

I think the fans and shrouds come out pretty easy.....let you work on left side of engine (front of car) easier...

amazing demonstration.

Whats the part called you are changing?

Were all the bolts easy to get to after you took out the Battery Box and EGR? I'm looking to replace CX7 turbo the same way you did... most other videos take off the exhaust manifold too... I would rather not do that if I don't have to.

Trust me people. It's Alot Easier than what he's making it look like 🤣🤣

the music alone was worth the view

Fuck where the fucking hoses positions fuck

Unless an Iridium plug has been dropped on the floor on the business end and the gap is obviously closed up, it should not be adjusted after purchase - you can ruin the plug that way.

Beautiful!!

Lost my 7 mil:(

Perfect.

Did you have difficulty loosening the propeller shaft bolts/nuts? (12mm)? I could NOT get them to loosen even tried (had car on jack stands), pushing the wrench with the floor jack to loosen then, couldn't do it?? Help please? Yes had rear brake on and tranny in Park. Thanks in advance. As per the tightening torque in the shop manual was like 22 FT/LBS, but they seem in there a LOT tighter than that.

I wish he would tell us what size sockets he using for the plug

Thank you excellent video! I was a bit confused at the beginning you disconnected the drive shaft and then unbolted the front differential mount; and kinda let the differential 'roll forward;' enough to clear the area to remove the old bushings and install the new ones am I correct? And used the jack to 'hold' the differential from moving and pulling the rear axles out, correct? Thank you.

Am trying to find these on amazon for a nissian note......any help Please