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@ChargedJosh 14 күн бұрын
It does seem to reduce pain when doing this. I went to the doctors about it concerned of tfcc last time but I keep getting the same pain like this that is preventing me to climb for a couple weeks at a time. Does antagonistic wrist training help prevent this or are there any known ways to lower the risk of injury aside from tapping
@TheClimbingDoctor 13 күн бұрын
Taping with this test helps confirm the injury and then you need to train stability and sensory motor control at the wrist to rehab and reduce the risk. It is a slow process as wrist injuries can be complicated and the anatomy of the wrist makes it challenging to stabilize.
@sebastijansalak4571 15 күн бұрын
Is there a way to perform joint mobilization like that on the ankle? I have developed ankle synovitis, and my body was telling me to somehow depressurize the ankle, and was thinking of hanging myself upside down on the door frame lol. By the way, found you after reading "Clinical management of finger joint capsulitis/synovitis in a rock climber" from Jared Vagy on Pubmed. They used the same techniques to completely heal the PIP synovitis in the research.
@TheClimbingDoctor 13 күн бұрын
Glad you found this video from my research article. Yes, there are several ways to traction the ankle joint that I am sure you can find on KZbin. Just need a strong superband!
@sebastijansalak4571 13 күн бұрын
@@TheClimbingDoctor Oh, so it is YOUR research article! Now I feel silly. 😅 Thanks for the heads up on the traction of the ankle joint. Do you have any channel to recommend which shows the method(s) properly? I wouldn't want to additionally injure myself. Also, on your article - I struggled to identify the correct method for the recovery stages. The article mentions 2 weeks of unloading (figures 4A-C) with additional 6 weeks of mobility exercises (figures 4D-F), and also strength exercises (figures 4G-I). After 6 weeks - reduce mobility and strength exercises and refrain for 2 weeks from climbing, before gradually introduce climbing again. Were the mobility (and strength?) exercises performed DURING the 2 weeks of unloading, totaling 6 weeks, or AFTER the 2 weeks of unloading, totaling 8 weeks?
@TheClimbingDoctor 13 күн бұрын
@@sebastijansalak4571 I don't have a reference for a proper ankle joint mobilization, but you may want to check out the Prehab Guys channel as they may have one. For the article, the 2 weeks of unloading was performed on its own, then AFTER the mobility and strength was added.
@sebastijansalak4571 13 күн бұрын
@@TheClimbingDoctor Thank you for both the recommendation and the explanation! You're awesome! 😄
@hejhejaske Ай бұрын
so what do you have to do when you already is experiencing the pain? do you train your biceps, or take a long break? whats the strategy?
@TheClimbingDoctor Ай бұрын
Here are two articles that can help you out with that? theclimbingdoctor.com/long-head-of-the-biceps-tendinopathy/ theclimbingdoctor.com/portfolio-items/biceps-tendinopathy-3/
@aldosanchez1417 Ай бұрын
Where do you get these?
@TheClimbingDoctor Ай бұрын
The Pom Pom's? Any craft store. They are a few cents each. You can also use a rubberband or a balloon with rice between the fingers
@huntrayisabeast16 Ай бұрын
16:40 ish, is that the general rule for most of the population? my ring finger DIP is way more flexible (hyperextension) than my index, and a good bit than my middle. my index hardly breaks 10-15 degrees, my pinky DIP is wild though, it hyperextends to what looks like 75-80 degrees. i have some hypermobility though. either way, full crimping feels fucking awful an i almost never do it, especially doing thumb over index/middle.
@TheClimbingDoctor Ай бұрын
There is variability in each person but many people exhibit that rule.
@ilovehotmics9873 Ай бұрын
Essentially…
@eurekaflows Ай бұрын
This is an incredibly useful and helpful video that I've always come back to. But MAN, the presentation is so dry. I hope this gets remade in the future for a bigger audience but maybe with more enthusiasm and less padding.
@TheClimbingDoctor Ай бұрын
Thanks for the feedback on the presentation. I am glad that you find it helful. This video was orginally part of a paid course for medical providers - so this may be a bit of the reason why the delivery isn't "exciting" since the targer audience wasn't originally for climbers on KZbin - but the content is so strong and useful for climbers that I decided that the information needed to be free for anyone to access.
@dianahsieh Ай бұрын
Is the goal to increase the small crease?
@TheClimbingDoctor Ай бұрын
The main goal is to improve motion but typically where you see creases there is more motion (i.e. move your wrist back and forth) - so an increased crease may mean more motion - but more important is does it feel better and does the ankle range go further
@robertgregory5716 Ай бұрын
"Talor" (sic) glides?
@TheClimbingDoctor Ай бұрын
Yeah, posterior glides of the talus
@robertgregory5716 Ай бұрын
@@TheClimbingDoctor My point was that you should spell "talar" correctly.
@TheClimbingDoctor Ай бұрын
@@robertgregory5716 Got it, thanks for the spelling catch on the typo - once posted though I can't revise. Hope you find the exercise helpful.
@JoeyDunn Ай бұрын
Can you ask the person who made this splint if they can make the file available, even for sale? I don't have a 3D printer, but I would like to ask someone to make me one? I'd be happy to buy from the original creator.
@TheClimbingDoctor Ай бұрын
Check the link below in the comments for STL file options. There are also pre fabricated splints available on Amazon: instagram.com/p/CrOQ_RVgUnF/
@jcool9647 Ай бұрын
Really good video!
@TheClimbingDoctor Ай бұрын
So glad you found it helpful!
@FTZ360 Ай бұрын
Is there anything special about the Prism material mentioned in the video, or does any 1/8" thermoplastic work? Prism material is super expensive, whereas I can get any old unbranded 1/8" thermoplastic very cheaply.
@TheClimbingDoctor Ай бұрын
We use Prism in the clinic since it's an industry standard but any 1/8'' should work fine. If you find a link to buy cheap - can you post it here for others to see?
@muscularibuprofen69 2 ай бұрын
Have had pip synovitis for over a year. I've tried everything, but I may have left it too long as it been chronic. What are your thoughts on surgical or medical intervention such as corticosteroids, synovitis operations and so on? There seems to be very little information out there on this, and their respective prognoses for climbers.
@chancenestor5250 2 ай бұрын
Hello climbing doctor I had an injury about two years ago, dislocated elbow, broken wrist, Radiohead replacement, just got back into Climbing and pushed a little too hard and now my wrist hurts when I pro or super it's feeling better now but I would love to know how to avoid it in the future
@chancenestor5250 2 ай бұрын
Hello climbing doctor I had an injury about two years ago, dislocated elbow, broken wrist, Radiohead replacement, just got back into Climbing and pushed a little too hard and now my wrist hurts when I pro or super it's feeling better now but I would love to know how to avoid it in the future
@chancenestor5250 2 ай бұрын
Hello climbing doctor I had an injury about two years ago, dislocated elbow, broken wrist, Radiohead replacement, just got back into Climbing and pushed a little too hard and now my wrist hurts when I pro or super it's feeling better now but I would love to know how to avoid it in the future
@TheClimbingDoctor 2 ай бұрын
Got it. Those are complex surgeries, so I recommend you have it checked out by medical provider who is a climber. I have a list below of medical providers all over the world who climb. I cannot vouch for any of their skill or expertise, but it can be a good start. Best of luck. Scroll to the bottom of the link below for the list, "Click Here to See a List of All Accepted Members": theclimbingdoctor.com/portfolio-items/rock-rehab-community-2-2/
@chancenestor5250 2 ай бұрын
Hello climbing doctor I had an injury about two years ago, dislocated elbow, broken wrist, Radiohead replacement, just got back into Climbing and pushed a little too hard and now my wrist hurts when I pro or super it's feeling better now but I would love to know how to avoid it in the future
@facelessnameless 2 ай бұрын
How to progressively overload other than ankle weights & resistance band?
@TheClimbingDoctor 2 ай бұрын
Resistance can be increased: Cables are an option to step up the challenge but can be a bit clunky to set up (ankle cuff for lower body and handle for upper body). Or resistance bands, super bands and ankle weights. Duration can be increased: Start with 30 seconds (best for bouldering) and progress to 3 minutes (best for route climbing). Stability can be challenged: Perform on the ball end of a Bosu Ball for added instability. Excursion can be challenged: For example double bug can be modified to finger to tie taps with the knees straight. Hope that gives some useful options.
@micchops3921 2 ай бұрын
Wow, this is without a doubt the best, most practically comprehensive and up to date lecture/discussion and article about this topic available on the internet. The practical takeaways and foundational education provided to implement them are invaluable and easily digestible. I don't comment often but this is truly incredible work. I really hope it gets the views it deserves and I'll do my part by sharing with anyone I can!
@TheClimbingDoctor 2 ай бұрын
Glad you found it helpful! Article below for reference, theclimbingdoctor.com/tendons-do-i-load-it-or-rest-it/
@keke4170 2 ай бұрын
Hi! Thanks for an informative video! 4 days ago my pulley popped while pulling from a crimp. At first, it seemed like a grade 3 pulley injury but now the healing process has been surprisingly fast and it doesnt’t hurt at all in daily activities. Only crimping with the finger creates pain but even that has decreases a quite a lot during these few days. What grade do you think this is and how long will the rehabilitation last?
@TheClimbingDoctor 2 ай бұрын
Go to the second table in the article below and perform the testing - either yourself or a medical provider (recommend). You will then be able to identify the grading. theclimbingdoctor.com/how-to-rehab-a-climbing-pulley-injury/
@mikepiper3736 2 ай бұрын
Today I learned that the words "bone-tendon distance" make me very uncomfortable.
@TheClimbingDoctor 2 ай бұрын
Oh bummer. Well, know that bowstringing (bone tendon distance) it is actually a natural occurrence that happens any time that we put load onto the fingers. However, if the load exceeds capacity, the pulley can rupture and the distance is excessive. The good news though is that video outlines exactly what to do if and when it happens. So hopefully that puts you a bit more at ease!
@Will-kt5jk 2 ай бұрын
Would be useful if you stated what the purpose of each of these are (which joints/tendons/muscle groups are doing what & why) - helps get the movement right if you know what it’s trying to achieve. (also be good to know which climbing injuries you’re targeting - I’m guessing these won’t protect your head from rockfalls, stubbed toes and rope burn etc. 😜)
@TheClimbingDoctor 2 ай бұрын
Sure, no problem - see below: Alternating arms: Shoulder flexion (overhead) mobility. For reaching to far to reach overhead holds. Stretches the lats and inferior joint capsule of the shoulder Touchdowns: Shoulder external (outward) rotation. Counteracts the internal rotation during climbing. Stretches the shoulder internal rotators (lats, teres major, subscap, pec major) Lizards: Shoulder external (outward) rotation with scapular upward rotation. Good fro gastons. Stretches the shoulder internal rotators and downward rotators. The key is to keep the rib cage down, shoulder rotated outward, and the back flat on the foam roll. Hope that helps!
@mayqueen943 2 ай бұрын
I came back to thank you , from the bottom of my heart. I’m a type 2 diabetic and I used to have a very exhausting and stressful job .It was draining the life out of me and I had to type a lot. On dec 31st I woke up to my index finger completely swollen and I was unable to move it no matter how hard I tried. I got millions of X-rays, mris and kinesiology treatments and nothing seemed to work. Until I found you. I tried this last night because I had nothing left to lose. I would always wake up to my finger joint completely frozen , unable to move and it would get significantly better throughout the day until the next morning. I’m guessing that maybe it was liquid build up or something. Today,after seven months of excruciating pain and suffering, I woke up with a normal finger because of you. THANK YOU SO MUCH ❤ God bless you !!
@TheClimbingDoctor 2 ай бұрын
That is so heartfelt to hear. Thank you so much for sharing. That completely made my day. I am glad that this video was helpful for you.
@benjaminr9824 3 ай бұрын
David Carradine had a really good technique
@kunald7732 3 ай бұрын
Bro your videos need to be dumbed down for average person.
@TheClimbingDoctor 3 ай бұрын
Haha, yeah I know! For context - these videos were originally made just for medical providers - but I have had so many climber ask me detailed questions about anatomy and biomechanics that I thought it I would just share the video for free with everyone. Some climbers really like the detail while some prefer it to be more simple. At some stage I will film another - less detailed video - but for now I hope you were able to learn from this one!
@MadeinChinakiki 3 ай бұрын
all climbers proceed to ignore advice about not climbing on small edges 🤣
@TheClimbingDoctor 3 ай бұрын
Haha, yeah it’s an older video - so needs an update…basically should be more of a “return to climbing after pulley injury” than “prevent pulley injury” video. Avoiding small crimps in the early stages when the injury is healing - and then berthing back into them progressively.
@mahjabeenkhan1090 3 ай бұрын
How does it help
@TheClimbingDoctor 3 ай бұрын
Climbers often concentrate on strengthening their finger flexors, but the palmer interossei muscles, crucial for lateral finger control during gripping, are frequently overlooked.
@mahjabeenkhan1090 3 ай бұрын
@@TheClimbingDoctor Ohhh, rytt. It slipped out of my mind. My Judo coach also says this. My bad. Thank youu
@bondjane007 3 ай бұрын
Well I like what they're doing but I can't do some of it. My fingers are just too stiff.
@frickfrick123 3 ай бұрын
Thank you for this! I have your book but this isn't in it (or I just missed it 😅), and this is what I'm dealing with right now. Question: do you have to do the joint mobilization at a 90º angle with the thumb stabilization? Really: can you do it with the finger straight, pulling in-line?
@TheClimbingDoctor 3 ай бұрын
You can do so with the finger straight but it also tractions the joint below it (MCP joint) so you lose some of the traction force. You can hang your fingers off of the side of a table which is an easier way instead of blocking the joint. Also, see below for a research article I wrote that may help you with your condition: theclimbingdoctor.com/clinical-management-of-finger-joint-capsulitis-synovitis-in-a-rock-climber/
@frickfrick123 3 ай бұрын
@@TheClimbingDoctor That makes sense. Thanks for the response and thanks for the article!
@LiftedAdventures 4 ай бұрын
Any videos for ganglion cysts on say the a2 or anything you suggest?
@TheClimbingDoctor 4 ай бұрын
I don't have any posted on ganglion cysts but I do have some clips in my Ultrasound Diagnostics course that goes over them, so I will see if I can cue something up on that for the future. Thanks for the suggestion.
@TheRyma52 4 ай бұрын
Does it matter what type of rice is used?
@TheClimbingDoctor 4 ай бұрын
Although smaller grains = higher resistance, it doesn't matter that much. I would typically go with 15-30lbs of the cheapest rice you can find and load up a 5 gallon bucket.
@TheRyma52 4 ай бұрын
@@TheClimbingDoctor Thanks so much.
@hhehdh3876 4 ай бұрын
how to deal with strained shoulder?
@HourRomanticist 4 ай бұрын
"Climbing places stress on the biceps"
@sammiller1003 4 ай бұрын
Have you trued using a water bath? Lets you get the probe further away from the finger and would allow for proper bending of the finger while keeping image quality good.
@TheClimbingDoctor 4 ай бұрын
It is a cool idea and it can be done with most units. It is interesting to see tendon movement with finger movement - but it is not very practical from a standardized assessment standpoint for pulley injuries since you really don't need to be able to see a large range of movement to diagnose an A4 pulley injury. You just need to identify bowstringing at rest and at load - which is fairly easy to do without the water set up.
@Sepp2009 4 ай бұрын
lol how often do you get concussions from climbing?
@TheClimbingDoctor 4 ай бұрын
It's actually fairly common with traumatic injuries such as falls - especially during outdoor climbing. In a 2020 study titled "Head and Neck Injuries from Rock Climbing: A Query of the National Electronic Injury Surveillance System" they identified that a concussion was the most common injury head/neck injury accounting for 44% of all head and neck injuries. How that helps clarify the frequency!
@senorblondie 5 ай бұрын
😂🔥
@johng2730 5 ай бұрын
Is the stl available for this splint?
@TheClimbingDoctor 5 ай бұрын
Not the exact model (as the STL for that one was given to me by someone else, so I cannot share) but there are many models that have STL files. Check the link below in the comments and there are options. instagram.com/p/CrOQ_RVgUnF/
@harixd4158 5 ай бұрын
Do tfcc ever heal?
@TheClimbingDoctor 5 ай бұрын
It is not uncommon for people with TFCC injuries return back to sport at full (or close to full strength) with proper physical therapy that focuses on unloading the tissues, increasing pain-free mobility, improving muscle performance, and restoring optimal movement. It is more likely that the wrist gains improved sensory motor control than the TFCC repairing itself - but some of this depends on the extent of the injury, the location, and individual factors.
@RuinerWonkel 6 ай бұрын
I cannot do this with any finger. From the dip joint to the tip of the finger i cannot really extend, my fingers are just flexed even without resistance bands.
@TheClimbingDoctor 5 ай бұрын
A rice bucket may be a good alternative. Here is an example below. Hopefully that is easier to do: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4u1ZJSuodJmmbMsi=wYk4PnSOUyIumo4o
@RuinerWonkel 5 ай бұрын
@@TheClimbingDoctor Thank you very much for the advice, I will try it out.
@andrewhunter6536 6 ай бұрын
Nothing about taping a4 or anything specific about a4? Maybe you have a different video? Is tape effective for a4?
@TheClimbingDoctor 5 ай бұрын
The rehab is very similar but the grading is different. See the article below. Also, for taping, we are currently performing a research study to see if taping and splinting is necessary for A4 injuries since only one tendon travels beneath it whereas for A2 there are two tendons beneath it. Grading info below: theclimbingdoctor.com/climbing-pulley-injury-anatomy-biomechanics-and-research/
@andrewhunter6536 5 ай бұрын
@@TheClimbingDoctor thanks for the information I will read it
@Swampdawgg69 6 ай бұрын
Thank you
@michaelvogel7905 6 ай бұрын
When improving circulation, gliding the tendon, and restoring mobility do you leave the tape or pulley splint on or take them off? In my case i am H taping and using a splint on my a2 and a4
@TheClimbingDoctor 6 ай бұрын
For gliding the tendon and restoring mobility it is typically recommended for grade 2 injuries to perform in the early stages with tape on. For grade 3 and 4 injuries, it is recommended in the early stages to perform with the splint on, and then after the recommended 6 to 8 weeks of splint usage, to transition to performing with tape on. I recommend you to consult a medical provider for a your specific case scenario.
@michaelvogel7905 6 ай бұрын
@@TheClimbingDoctor i did he told me I didn’t need surgery and to follow your protocol 😂 he was also very impressed by my h taping plus pulley pal splint combo
@TheClimbingDoctor 6 ай бұрын
@@michaelvogel7905Haha, that's awesome. Best of luck on the rehab!
@arrrexx 6 ай бұрын
this looks like it does nothing...? all the weight is in your feet
@TheClimbingDoctor 6 ай бұрын
Looks can be deceiving - I encourage you to give it a try. It is much harder than it looks on the upper body. When performing the reaches, you lean your chest down toward the ground so it puts your chest muscles on stretch while contracting. IT is a hybrid of a mobility / strength exercise. To make it more challenging.- go on your tip toes, lift one leg, or perform on an uneven surface!
@R.u.x.x 6 ай бұрын
They need to make climbing shoes that allow for natural foot anatomy while maintaining a tight fit. I'm imagining custom fit toe spacers that are an insert that slide in before you put these wider toe box climbing shoes. I haven't seen anything that addresses foot health with high performance. Maybe one day.
@TheClimbingDoctor 6 ай бұрын
Interesting idea. Yeah, I agree we need to keep pushing for innovation in climbing shoes not just for performance but for comfort and fit.
@Lucroz94 5 ай бұрын
I think that's what Mad Rock is trying to do if you see the shape of Drone 2.0 and the new Shark V3. It's now aggressively downturned and when you hear one of their engineer (kzbin.info/www/bejne/n4C4gXhpmKuXeMk) they're trying to stay with a kind of flat shoes but just bent the toes where it's needed for the power needed. Sorry if it's unclear but that's what I remember when I was searching for a new shoes because I have terribly week toes and downsizing too much on shoes hurt too much
@TheClimbingDoctor 5 ай бұрын
@@Lucroz94 Interesting, I will check that out. Thanks for adding to the conversation!
@R.u.x.x 4 ай бұрын
@@Lucroz94 keeping it flat and only pointed where it's needed doesn't address the crowding issue though. I'm not an expert, but to me it's about keeping the toes to act as one solid piece. Why not achieve that with spacers, so when you walk normally your feet are splayed like they're supposed to be?
@773-csb 6 ай бұрын
Would this more so be targeting pushing, instead of pulling? Therefore making the practice less target towards lock-offs?
@TheClimbingDoctor 6 ай бұрын
Hey there! Yeah, this exercise gets a lot of feedback on what it is training. To train a lock off, yes, you would perform an exercise that looks similar but is reversed, such as pulling into the rings with your back towards the ground. But to train the same movement pattern but different muscle groups (chest and triceps eccentric versus back and biceps concentric) you would perform the exercise int he video to balance the muscles in the body. Hope that helps clarify!
@thinkhine8866 6 ай бұрын
Good but my hands no good.
@celineremy8554 6 ай бұрын
Is that how "abduction" is pronounced in english? (honest question, I'm surprised)
@TheClimbingDoctor 6 ай бұрын
Haha, yeah. It's an odd word, but the medical term Abduction is the same word as "the action of taking someone away." Hope that helps.
@celineremy8554 5 ай бұрын
@@TheClimbingDoctor ho, I hadn't made the link between abduction and, hum, abduction* My original comment was about the pronunciation though, when you say "A-B-duction". I've since heard Hooper pronounce it in the same way, and another YT guy say it like I would have said it, in one go like "abdominal". (*in french the word abduction only refers to that movement/muscle ; we have another word for kidnapping, although its etymology also refers to the act of lifting upwards : from latin "levare" instead of "abductio" - I know, this is all essential and passionating 🤓😉)
@TheClimbingDoctor 5 ай бұрын
Got it, yeah, you could say it either way. The AB duction pronunciation is typically used in oral teaching scenarios to emphasize the difference between Ad duction.
@hidden546 6 ай бұрын
I get clicking when I do ulnar deviation. Currently only experience pain with the compression test. It flares up bad during climbing. Would this help it?
@TheClimbingDoctor 6 ай бұрын
It will likely help reduce ulnar compression but may be best to perform isometrically so you don’t get the clicking.
@lamondaforestry 2 ай бұрын
Get a wristwidget man!
@ericmcelyea5089 6 ай бұрын
I suffer from this exact problem and have been playing around with making some kind of ring/device to wear on my finger that prevents the DIP from hyperextending and holds it in a flexed or flat position. Does that seem like a possible solution? I have 3d printed a few crude versions but haven't tested them out in actual climbing or seen the effect they have on crimp strength.
@TheClimbingDoctor 6 ай бұрын
Interesting. If you like, you could send one over to me and I can take a look. If you go to my webpage theclimbingdoctor.com you can find my email address. Feel free to reference this comment and I would be happy to test out the design and offer some recommendations.
@StephenSmithDPT 6 ай бұрын
This is interesting and it could maybe be possible, in the acute or unloading phase, however, as Jared and I discussed, you will want to gradually add the stress of more demanding joint angles to build up resiliency. My other concern would be if you block the DIP from moving, the PIP stress may likely increase, so be conscious of this when designing the splint/ring
@rehan4783 6 ай бұрын
I feel slight pain in index finger when i press it while it is compressed no mobility issues but it looks slightly swelled compared to other index finger but very slightly and it only pains when i press the first knuckle
@ayseguitar 4 ай бұрын
Have you tried to do these exercises? How is it now?