You can find the link to my Play-Mor SketchUp in the description of this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/foHPZHemp82mmbMsi=fIYKyrJT19sBGDhB Thanks for watching!

I think I'm totally correct too, thanks for agreeing, lol! But seriously, it's worked out just fine on this camper so I don't regret it at all. Thanks for watching!

If you look in the description of this video there are links to download the SketchUp for a few of the campers I've worked on.

@TrailerTrashtoTreasure thank you!

You're welcome!

I don't really mind paying taxes on these old campers as it's not very much due to the age, but the quiet title process is nonsense.

In the rebuild manual that I got from Mike's Carburator Parts it says this in the section on the altitude compensator: "NOTE: The altitude compensator is factory set and should not be adjusted." So I didn't mess with it.

It's not a Pittsburgh seam, but I can't seem to think of the actual name of it at the moment, but yes it has seams. There's lots of companies that you can get skins from: BESTWAYTRAILER.COM - Utah HEINTZDESIGNS.COM - Florida HEMETVALLEYRV.NET - California INTERSTATE METAL - Oregon THEMETALCOMPANY.COM - Arvada, CO AIRPARTS.COM MAC'S ALUMINUM - Bristow, OK

For sure!

Thank you so much! There's always a point when you're taking something apart that you think, "oh no, I've gone too far," but trust the process and you'll get things done.

🎊

Race, although I think you'll sometimes also hear them called a bearing cup.

Yeah, it seems like NAPA is a better parts store than like AutoZone or O'Reilly's, but there's not one real close to me. I see them more often in rural communities in Kansas.

Yeah, it's not too hard to rebuild one of these even for a novice, but what I find problematic is that there are several different ways to adjust it and not a lot of good clarification of which way to do it. Ultimately, I think the best piece of advice is to buy a quality rebuild kit and follow the directions that come with it. I bought mine from Mike's Carburator Parts and their documentation was excellent!

Most kits will come with a chart that you can reference, but mine came from Mike's Carburator Parts, and you can download their manuals here: www.carburetor-parts.com/carburetor-repair-manuals

Thank you! I hope to have some new videos soon-ish!

I'm not a big fan of spray foam as it makes future repairs/alterations much more difficult. I'm not familiar with glassboard, but if you want to use what they likely would've used originally, Home Depot sells Asphalt panels that are sometimes called acoustic panels or sound board: www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Southern-Pine-Asphalt-Panel-A11230848096/206086210

Como esto no se utiliza como caravana y no es un espacio con clima controlado, no es necesario aislar las paredes. ¡Gracias por mirar!

Good luck!

Hahaha! Well thanks, I'm glad you were able to get some info from it, and I'm always happy to answer questions!

Yeah sorry, you have to at least take the top piece of the frame off to get the seal in. It kinda pinches against the side bits.

So... Honestly not great, but I'll tell you the one real reason why: I didn't use a self etching primer. Regular primer just doesn't stick very well to aluminum, and top it off with the Ace brand primer (which I had used before with better results), and it just started coming off in places worse than I expected. But here, if you want to see me do a better job that's held up much better, watch this video instead: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3XEfWiMaalsY7csi=8Q3n55LF63ZZhoql

Well that was a year and a half ago, but as it so happens I'm right in the middle of replacing my water pump now. I think maybe I'll be done next week so maybe plywood then!

It's really very true!

I was watching the ones where you had a small kid (maybe you still do) and was like no way I could get anything done in that phase of life 😂

Ha! Well he's five years old now and in kindergarten, but for some reason it's still hard to find the time to get things done! Those early videos were during the pandemic so I really didn't have much of anything on my plate, and building a camper helped pass the time.

Oh I like the windows themselves, they just gave me fits trying to get them all sealed up correctly. But with everything done they're great!

Hey Will, thanks for the question! Plywood is dimensionally stable, meaning it won't suffer from movement the way solid wood will, which is part of what causes warpage, but it only resists bending better than solid wood perpendicular to the ply so it wouldn't really be ideal in this case. Also the plys don't always hold nails and screws as well as solid wood, which is an important part of what this board does. Cost-wise, it would be a lot more expensive to buy a full sheet of 3/4" plywood to make that piece, but if you already had some cutoffs sure it'd be cheaper. Ultimately neither is going to be prohibitively expensive in this case, so I don't think cost is a major consideration here. But never ever ever use treated wood in a camper. A) it shrinks dramatically as it dries out, B) it releases toxic fumes into your camper, and C) it will corrode any metal in contact with it including screws, nails, staples, and the aluminum skin of your camper! If you need the kind of rot resistance provided by treated lumber, your camper has some serious flaws that need to be addressed first. But regardless, some campers were entirely built from plywood so it's definitely possible to use plywood instead of solid, I just don't know that there's an advantage for this particular application.

@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure Thanks for the quick reply Conan. And also for the remarks as far as using treated plywood, I never thought of the fumes and the corrosion thing. We have a 1977 ish 16 foot Scamper we are taking apart and have to rebuild again in order to use it for what we want it for. I took all the windows out already and now I have to remove the interior. Not looking forward to that part, lol. But I have to rebuild the walls from scratch because the inside is all done for and the framing of the walls need fixinf in a lot of places. Thanks for your videos.

You're welcome! Leave the interior until after you've taken the walls down. The interior holds the walls up (and is probably what's holding them together if you have significant rot) and the cabinets will likely be attached from the outside anyway.

@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure Ah, so you don't recommend to trash the whole interior and then come out with only the walls as you did with the Cal Craft? Because the interior walls need renewing too, they were part of the rot from the outside. Another question I have is, do you have a video on anything propane? I just saw the electrical on your photobooth, which was nice, but another thing we want to add is propane, maybe for the fridge (actually, for sure for the fridge) and also maybe for the stove we would like to get, eventually. Cheers, Will.

No, I did a lot of things backwards on the Cal-Craft; correcting that will probably be my first video when I get back to making them. I have never done a propane video because I've never used it, but it's in the plans for the Cal-Craft, so at some point I will be doing a video about it. It's not really that hard though. But I'll just be using it for a cooktop; we'll be using a 12v fridge.

The great state of Kansas!

Thanks for watching and subscribing! I hope to have some new videos coming out soon. I've got to get this half finished camper moving again!

Yup, all of them.

That's the last one for now, but hopefully more will be coming soon!

It was a tiny camper and very basic. Things can get a lot more expensive really quickly for sure!

It's made of layers of 1/8" plywood. You can see the procedure here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l6vEoX6leZ2ah6M

No, I built everything back as it was originally, I just made the mistake of assuming that the ladder was centered and didn't bother measuring it before I dismantled everything.

Hey, thank you and thanks for watching! So let me first say that I really think your best option for a quality paint job is to use an automotive single stage paint (or base/clear if you prefer). It seems intimidating to a lot of folks, and the paints are a bit more expensive, but you can talk to the folks at a lot of the big auto parts stores and get everything you need. That said, I'm not an expert in auto paint, but that's likely the way I'll go in the future. As to your questions... 1) I don't really remember how many square feet, but it probably took seven or eight cans to spray both sides (the top came painted white so I didn't have to prime that). If I would've been able to find it locally in a gallon can I could've sprayed the whole camper with that using my gun. 2) Poor adhesion is usually because people don't use a self etching primer or they don't properly clean the surface before painting. Aluminum almost immediately oxidizes in the presence of oxygen to create a layer of aluminum-oxide that protects it from further corrosion, it also prevents paint from sticking to it very well. The etching primer etches through that layer of aluminum-oxide to bond better with the aluminum, but you then want to top that etching primer with another regular primer to isolate it from your top coat of normal paint. It's a process with a few steps, but I actually enjoy it, and I think it's pretty easy to see that the end results are worth the effort. How has it held up after a year? Pretty well honestly, especially considering I haven't done any real maintenance to it, waxing, polishing, etc. House paint will never take a real shine like automotive paint will, but you have to look pretty close to spot the difference between the roof wrap which came painted from the factory and my house paint sides. Disability has been excellent, and I haven't had to touch up any rock nicks or scratches yet. Hope that helps, and good luck!

@@TrailerTrashtoTreasure thanks for the replay. Tons of great info. Much appreciated.

@@letgo22hrs you're very welcome!

You might try listing it as a free trailer on Facebook marketplace and see if someone else will come haul it away in one piece. Thanks for watching!

I would've just done the windows correctly the first time, lol! I made a video later where I went back and fixed the seals: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZfNqYKdg8-Irqs I don't really care for the look of utility trailer conversions, but it's not really about my preferences. My only other objection would be that you might run into some issues trying to get insurance on one, whereas a properly titled trailer might be easier to work with. I think I like the idea of a wood stove more than I would like the reality of it. Unless you're going to be camping off grid, my preference would be for an electric heater first, then diesel, then a propane furnace. Although, you could also go with something like the Pioneer Under Bench Heat Pump, and combine your AC and your heater into one unit, but it's a little pricey, and I haven't got any personal experience with one. You might look at an A-Liner if you're wanting to go with a pop-up four-season camper.

Nice, good luck and have fun!

The thing you need to work out is where the moisture is coming from. Is it condensation or do you have a leak? If it's a leak, just fix it obviously. If it's condensation, why are you having so much condensation forming? If you're in an extremely humid environment and you're blasting that AC all the time you're going to have the potential for condensation in the walls, and the problem is the temperature differential and the humidity, but I'd personally just take my camper somewhere else to camp that's a bit nicer, lol. But most moisture buildup in the walls is because you've got a leak, and most leaks come from a degraded seal and a loose screw. Roof seams don't leak unless they are physically damaged, so start looking at anything that's screwed through the skin.

I haven't really finished this camper yet, but if I were to add a radiant barrier with the insulation I'm using, I would install it against the wood paneling so that there is an air gap between it and the insulation. The air gap is critical to getting any kind of r-value out of reflectix.

You're welcome and thanks for watching!

Yeah, every state does it a little differently. Some are easy, but sadly some are very difficult.

Yeah, I don't think the trailer brakes were original to this trailer, but at some point it was bought, slightly altered, and sold by a company for commercial purposes (presumably as a mobile office or on site employee housing or something), and it may have been a requirement at the time for all commercial trailers to be equipped with trailer brakes. I really don't think they're necessary for a camper this size, but they are good to have in an emergency.

Good question. The manual for the power converter said to use 8 AWG minimum so that's what I used. I think 8 is probably more than was really needed for my application, but it's good advice to follow whatever your converter's manual recommends.

Yeah, basically I did do that.

Thanks! I used Rust-Oleum Aircraft Remover. For some reason the only local place I seem to be able to find it is at AutoZone.

Thanks! I feel like it's something that really just takes practice. Every time I paint something I get a little better at it.

Thanks, I couldn't do it all by myself!

Thanks!

I did!

Oh you know, you've got to mix it up a bit.