I just ordered a Spotmatic SP. in EX condition from KEH for $100. I don’t know the model differences. But I already have the 55mm. 1.8 lens. And I think I might want to buy the 24mm Pentax lens. My camera will arrive this next week. And I am excited to shoot with it.

I noted that in earlier video, Kodak 100, you used a Pentax Spotmatic, with 55/50 mm Takumar lens, which are low contrast! I loved them when I lived in South Africa, Johannesburg is like 2000m.7000ft above sea level.! High UV light, maximum contrast.. I later preferred my Nikkors on Nikon-F.

Rollei RPX 25 is also very clear based. Sharp as a tack.

Are there any considerations when metering? A meter sees all light but if not all of it is being recorded on ortho film, I’m thinking the film might be slightly underexposed when the meter says the exposure is perfect.

" 10 Rolls of Film " has proven that Rollei Retro 80S and Rollei RPX 25 are the same film. Retro 80s is just pushed.

the main reason people didnt like it was because tmax is very sensitive to any variations in processing. people blamed the film rather than admit they were sloppy in the darkroom.

Any ideas how this would do pushed say 1-2 stops?

I have an LX and love it... now I really want a simple, beautiful, MX....... and a second LX as a back up to the first

I love Fomapan action looks just like JCH street pan and I can get it for £5 49 UK so its one of my go to films .

It's crazy to think that KZbin was around 3 years before Kodochrome was discontinued, it would've been great if someone made a video review about it back then.

фомапан 400 сильно скручивается, а так да детализация хорошая.

I had the same eye releif issue too having to look around to get all the info. I got myself a 19mm screw in diopter which replaced my spec when shooting. As a left eye shooter the LEDs on the right are ideal and unlike with the FE everything is always easy to see even in low light.

Is this any different from Spotmatic F?

you make incredible videos. Very high quality video production. Are you editing them all yourself? Either way great work.

so wanted this camera when it came out. still got it although probably not used it for 25-30 years. only downside is if you hold to left eye like i do the cocked lever will stick in your right eye, so you need to hold it at a bit of an angle.

Tri-X in D-76 1:1 for 11 minutes is the bomb.

amazing video and info, thanks a lot. what battery you personally suggest?

I see you rated the Rollei Retro 80S at 40ASA; have you ever used it at box speed and if so what were the results like? Have you developed it in D76 1:1

How does it compare to the Rollei Retro 8OS?

That locking of the shutter for long exposure was available on the Spotmatic F, btw.

Ernie was right about the number 9.

thanks dud3

Went to the original Woodstock 1969 site and went to the museum they had. They happen to had multiple different props and items from the original festival including this exact model of Pentax

I’ve found it better to treat Fomapan 100 at ISO 64 to get the best results

Rollei Retro 80 is (apparently) the same as their RPX-25. Try shooting it at 25 and develop with RPX-25 times on 'The Massive Dev Chart'.

If you've shot with Kodachrome before, film simulations on digital cameras will hold zero appeal. Only one is the real thing. Accept no substitutes.

This is mechanical simplicity at its best. You can't remove anything without affecting the MX's functionality, and you can't add anything without making it superfluous. Take the viewfinder information for example. You have just the bare minimum for taking a good picture - a focussing prism, shutter speed, and simple LEDs to confirm exposure. The rest of the screen is kept clear so you can focus on image composition. Compare this to the information clutter you find in the EVF of any modern digital camera. Histograms, face detection emoji and other distracting details that get in the way. I'm lucky I bought my MX when these things were still cheap.

never liked HP5+ - it seems to have low ugly contrast and bad looking grain... Maybe cos I use D-76... For my opinion good old Ilford PAN 400 is much cheaper and much better nad wors as well as 800 or 1600 iso, not only 400)

I find that Ferrania P30 is three times as expansive as Fomapan 100, so I am afraid they will have a tough time trying to survive.

Back in the 90's they made the GREATEST film ever !!!.... Agfa 25 .. slow but long tonal scale and normal contrast ... which then and even now is a bit unusual ... Agfa film has always had incredible tonal range !!!!

Basically, not just cameras, but almost all merchandise from the 70’s era were all well built (no cut cost or corners or plastic parts)… watches, stereos, automobiles, etc you name it 😂 People moralities as well. People trusted people. Friends last forever; no cheap social medias lies easy come easy go… LOL I think America and the rest of the world are heading to a wrong direction if people don’t wake up sooner

I also have a F2 Photomic (1971), it a new king after the legendary F (1959). 🎉

This is the original (version 1) Nikon FM from 1977 to 1979, I believe. I personally think it’s the best version. There were three versions made all together from 1977 to 1982). The FM and FE (twin brothers or sisters) were primarily targeted at the North American market in 1977 and 1978, respectively, from articles I had read. I prefer the FM over the FM2, FM2n and the FM3A due to its pure manual control springs, levers and gears mechanical shutter camera. 😅

Agree with how great the FM is for sure, but the FM2N is the same quality with better features while maintaining that fully manual experience. I'm sure I'd be happy with an original FM, but I see literally no reason not to just go ahead and use the FM2n.

I’m just collecting old cameras with 100% intention on using every one I get. Got an F3 last week and a FM today. Probably pick a Pentax k1000 and a canon Ae-1 program at some point. I’m really enjoying film right now.

One thing I'd add to the equation is how flat (or not) the film physically is once developed. I'll spend the extra $3 for a roll that keeps me from going crazy trying to scan on a flatbed. I suppose a nice digital camera setup with some sort of film holder negates that issue but if you're needing to use a flatbed beware. I forget which fomapan I tried a few months ago but holy smokes.

Did Wes Anderson co-direct this? 😄

Have you tried comparing the sharpness between your own scans and the lab scans ? A flatbed scanner will not yield the ideal sharpness from a 135 film, which is why you might find it is not as sharp as the other stocks. Just a thought

I got an all-black Nikon FM maybe 8 years ago, and I love it. I wonder if it actually has the best build quality of any SLR, but even so it's not very heavy.

Personally HP-5plus is pretty hard to beat, 35mm or 120. Having said that, there are times when I look at my tri-x images and say to myself omg. I shoot both. Honorable mentions Fuji Neopan 400. (Discontinued) Agfapan400. (Discontinued). Bergger Pancro 400. (Always backordered.)

it's also available as Super8 😉

Doesn't tri-x have a t-grain? It should not be in the same category as classic tech/grained films. Maybe a comparable one is delta from ilford (in best case scenario)

I have 2. The FV in silver and a mint FT in black.I had kanto camera build in a split screen focus mechanicism in the fr. I love it

I have given up on Fomapan. Their QC is very bad. I have had 35mm that has had white spots on the negs, and the last 2 rolls of Fomapan 400 shot on a Mamiya 645 only produced 14 and a bit images. When I compared the length of the films with another brand, they were both over 1.5 cms (over 1/2 inch) shorter.

Never had an issue with Fomapan 400 curling. I reckon it's something you can get if you don't weight the negs when you hand them to dry. Or if they dry too fast in a too dry environment. I've shot 100 feet of it last year (plus many canisters before that) and never ever had it curling on me. I hang them, weighted, in my bathroom and it's always perfect.