Still complicated ;) I'll stick to in camera metering on my Me Super, phone app and my Canon Eos 30. Can't justify paying so much money for this device since I only shoot few rolls a year. The rest of my photography is digital, so don't have to worry about metering and just enjoy taking photos.

Which are the native ISOs you use for slog3 to have no noise?

Why are you forcing the Sekonic light meter to match the camera’s meter? I thought that the Sekonic spot meter reading is more accurate than any camera’s light meter reading. Why aren’t you trusting the reading you’re getting from the Sekonic? I’m confused by your method of calibration.

Finally someone that knows how to shoot with that camera. Thank you so much, was struggling to find quality footage to showcase the camera.

I am facing problem in off focus. AF works fine with Sony lens but not working with other lenses. Help me sir.

Tell me you don't know how to use log without telling me you don't know how to use Log. LMAO If you're using flexible ISO, why on earth would you stay at 800 while overexposing 2 stops? If you want similar dynamic range as Cine EI, you should actually adjust the ISO while using the Flexible ISO mode. That's the whole point.

To calibrate an L-478D and L-858D, enter the Hardware menu. You first turn the meter off. With the meter off, hold the Menu button down and turn on the meter continuing to hold the Menu button until the hardware menu is displayed. From the Hardware menu, you can do a factory reset you can adjust the Exposure value +.1 or -.1 steps. You can set the user information identify yourself in the hardware menu. However, it only shows up when somebody looks at the info on the L-478 or you enter the display product information screen on the L-858.

thanks for sharing, very helping

Hello, and thank you for your content. Do you have an email? I need your expertise in exchange for a tip, and if you have Patreon, I'd like to support you there, in return, I would like to know the steps to follow for my R5C in RAW with the Atomos for the El zone. Best regards

You just made it much more complicated then some of the methods you mention. 15 years old would struggle to understand.

The first shot looked noise free- the rest looked a little bit noisy.

709 doesn’t necessarily mean a legal signal, right?

Does anyone know how to correct the false rec709 in davinci ? Thanks for help

Thanks. My Expo disk metered the same as the camera, so I used the expo disk to calibrate the light meter. There was a .7 difference.

Thank you so much

thank you so much for sharing this..

is this Ninja V monitor?

Can't be changed? It can easily be changed.

Thanks for the video … are you using a Windows PC? The Sony updater is not working on my mac & no reply from Sony.

i like ur cat

Hey Thank you for testing this. I have been waiting for a GREEN LIGHT to proceed with the new Sony firmware update and functionality with the Ninja. I am curious how many users work with this camera and the Atomos Ninja in this manner. Takes some digging to find results, BUT I did speak with Sony who confirmed this new 3.01 was released specifically for this Ninja solution. Thanks Sony!

I will buy an atomos monitor for the first time for my sony a7 siii, what I need yo use el zone correctly? I have to activate the log button, put the camara in pp8(slog3) and put signal raw output on??

The network connection fix made the connection faster, but the reception is worse. Guess it's for close cellular data access points now.

When feeding full level 709 in and legalize on it legalises signal by cliping signal that goes over legal range. Which is completly wrong it was supposed to compress signal. Function literarly fails to do wjat is supposed. Luckily i had option to feed video signal so i turn off legalize and get proper result, otherwise i would be ultra mad

But the autofocus with various Sony lens and gimbal USB control is broken…

Thank you

Finally!

This explanation seemed like for a person with 300 years of experience, not a 5 year old, I did not understand crap....."press this button, and did not even showed what button to press. left me as dumb as i was before I started wathing this video....

I wondering if you close the aperture EL Zone would show you the crushed dark parts in black. Some people are mention that can´t get the the crushed dark parts in black.

This is amazing, just realized there is an update. Thank you for your input🙏🏻

Assume that I calibrate my L-758DR using the ISO_1 & ISO_2 buttons depressed - to my Canon DSLR, from then on I can just use the light meter to tell me what settings to use for a correct exposure on the DSLR. --- What happens, if the Histogram on the camera then shows me that the image is either over/under exposed? -- Is it better to calibrate the Camera to the Light Meter a better option? Is it better to calibrate the Light Meter to the camera? -- Just asking, as I am not sure what to do with my equipment right now, as I now have a different Canon DSLR (7Dii).

I have found that to achieve a useful ProResRaw clip I have to over expose an 18% grey target by +4 stops (red on the EL Zone system). If I don’t the image is too dark plus I can’t view the scene on my Ninja monitor. Does anyone else have this issue ?

Great video! Could you also go over the ARRI False Color option? The documentation on it is basically nonexistent.

Love from odisa Indian...

I have done extensive lens-cap noise tests with standard SLog-3 video (non-raw) internal and HDMI to a Ninja. I can confirm that 640 and 12800 ISO are definitely the base ISO values on Firmware 3.0. The "low" 0db is 640 ISO and the "high" 0db is 12800 ISO. I inspected this on scopes and can VERY clearly see the second preamp circuit kick-in at 12800 ISO as expected. I did not test this in ProResRAW. I only tested this on internal XAVC files and HDMI video out going to ProRes video 4:2:2, UHD 4k 10bit.

Im no longer with Sony but when i shot it with the ninja i dont recall Slog-Conversion to be correct. The sony outputs linear raw as far as i remeber and im not sure if the ninja has the right conversion. So in mi mind it could be, that the raw simply isnt slog and therefore the measure of exposure on the ninja isnt correct. (Raw inherently has no gamma-curve, it only gets one in the NLE when you choose to decode it as such…) All that in turn would mean, that you have to expose raw and slog very differently of course, so it would make sense. 18% grey is especially tricky as it entirely depends on the used gamma-curve. Having a bright spot in the scene thats just clipping and then measuring back down from there would probably be more accurate (i believe 92% in slog3 and around 100% for raw then) as youre truly gauging the dynamic range of the current setting from the sensor thats independent of the target gamma curve (log format).

@geraldundone

Good video! It's clearly a bug from the 3.00 update. If you are trying to shoot in slog3 in camera on AUTO ISO, the lowest ISO will be 640. That's clearly a glitch. It wasn't intended by Sony. They just take their time fixing it... I hope.

Most probably the Ninja needs a firmware update to function properly with the new firmware. Also gimbals have lost the ability to change the camera settings remotely because of this so it's normal. Just try in regular slog3 without the ninja at 640 and 12800 and see if anything changed

Refreshing colour grading, or lack thereof. Nice video

I only shoot raw with my q7s3 so this was very useful information for me. Thank you

I discovered a trick You have to set ISO auto min and max to 80. This looks to me like the first base ISO 640. If you pull out the HDMI plug on RAWISO 80, ISO 640 automatically comes internally and that is exactly the same. There is probably an error with the ISO settings for RAW output. So to speak, with RAW Output ISO 640 = 80 ISO 12800=1600 It is important that it is still somehow possible to get to the base ISO with RAW output. Hope this gets fixed quickly.

Your limited use of a powerfull camera like Sony A7SIII is not going to be relevant for industry.

Somebody should program a downgrade/reset firmware update😢😢😂

You know you can also calibrate the meter by first turning off your meter then power on holding iso1 AND iso2 and the CAL screen will appear, adjust your calibration. This way you can have adjustments to exposures without having to add to your meters adjusted readings. Calibrated amounts run underneath all exposures and adjustments.

This is the best and shortest example that I’ve seen that explains Cine EI. Thank you

Thank you for this video. I subscribed to your channel.

Hi thank you very much for this great video ! 😍 I’m a wedding photographer with Fuji GFX, and I want to make video also. I have a Blackmagic 4K but it’s too hard to use both cameras alone so I was thinking about this Sony camcorder to make wedding video professionally. What do you think about it ?

Excellent job on this video. For the past 4 days I’ve been trying to wrap my head around this legalize function between sony Fx3, Atomos Ninja, and my FCPX workflow. Your first video explained a lot but I was still confused when and how I should use legalize. The other day, I discovered that when i turned on legalize, the EL Zone was disabled. That really shooked me again. So your tutorial and explanation was right on time. Thank you for the excellent explanation. I think the only question I have is that, Is the sLog output being received into the Atomos at a “Full” signal? Additionally, with using the EL Zone system with the sLog, how will FCPX interpret the signal? As full or legal?

Great explanation. I use the EL system daily and it has changed the way I capture images. The imagery has been far more consistent!