Try Cricut Infusible Ink! No printer or all the expense needed! jennifermaker.com/cricut-infusible-ink/

Wonderful!

Go for it!

Yes, I say that in the video.

My pleasure!

Are you using any different materials that may have altered things? Here is the tutorial but if the print is fine that may not be the case. jennifermaker.com/sublimation-color-problems/ This is from our C+Sublimation Cookbook for Sate: Traditional Heat Press 400°F / 204°C 400°F 420-450 seconds 40 psi (medium pressure) AutoPress 204°C 400°F / 204°C 420 seconds Auto pressure Medium EasyPress Mini Press on High 450 seconds. Medium pressure jennifermaker.com/sublimation-cookbook/

Here are some tutorials on Cricut Infusible Ink. jennifermaker.com/cricut-infusible-ink/ jennifermaker.com/infusible-ink-pen-projects/

Here is the note in this post: Please note: Dishes made of Borosilicate WILL NOT WORK. Dishes from Ikea and some other brands of dishes may be made of borosilicate glass, therefore, they will not work. Borosilicate glass is a tougher type of glass. If you see a note that your dish is very scratch and impact resistant to withstand rapid temperature changes, it’s possible it may not work to etch correctly. Please check the etching cream manufacturer’s website for more information. jennifermaker.com/etched-casserole-dish/

Some vinyls are designed for "hot peel" (remove the carrier sheet while it's still hot) while others are "cold peel" (let it cool completely before peeling) - make sure you're following the correct method for your specific vinyl. You may be pressing for too long. Here is the heat guide from Cricut. cricut.com/en-us/heatguide

I have not tested that but it sounds like a possibility as it says eco tank.

Yay!!!

Thanks so much!

You can use the dishwasher safe Mod Podge.

True, vinyl should not be put where your lips would touch it. That wouldn't be comfortable either. Do not put them in the microwave as the fumes is what is claimed to be toxic to breathe when heated and hand wash only.

Thank you for confirming! I think I will avoid doing this type of project. I've never heard anyone talk about this problem on youtube, and many people aren't aware of it.

Here is the digital download. jennifermaker.com/sublimation-cookbook/ Print book link.jennifermaker.com/amazon/sublimationcookbook

You're welcome!

Here are a few potential reasons why your smart iron-on vinyl might not be sticking when you warm it with the hat press: Insufficient Heat: Ensure that you are applying enough heat. If the vinyl isn't sticking, you might need to give it some more heat. Put the carrier sheet back on and apply more heat with the same amount of pressure. Peeling Too Soon: Make sure you are not peeling the carrier sheet too quickly. Some vinyls require a cool peel, meaning you should let the design cool down before attempting to remove the carrier sheet. Pressure: Apply firm pressure when pressing. If the vinyl still doesn't stick, try pressing it again for a few more seconds. Surface Preparation: Ensure that the surface you are applying the vinyl to is clean and free of moisture. Preheating the surface can help remove any moisture and improve adhesion. Layering: If you are layering vinyl, make sure to protect the previous layers when applying additional layers.

We used 19 and 16 oz tumblers jennifermaker.com/how-to-sublimate-tapered-tumblers/ Here are a few more tutorials for different tumblers. jennifermaker.com/sublimation-tumblers/ jennifermaker.com/how-to-sublimate-a-40-oz-tumbler/

Here are some tutorials for starting out with sublimation. jennifermaker.com/sublimation-for-beginners/ jennifermaker.com/cricut-mug-press-ultimate-guide/ jennifermaker.com/cricut-mug-press-sublimation-blanks/ jennifermaker.com/cricut-mug-press-sublimation-blanks/

The tumblers need to be rotated during sublimation to ensure even heat distribution. Despite the convection oven fan circulating hot air, rotating the tumblers every minute and a half helps to even out the heat and prevent any potential hot spots or uneven areas that could affect the quality of the sublimation transfer.

Happy to hear that!

Here is a helpful tutorial on making door mats. jennifermaker.com/diy-personalized-door-mats/

Yes, you can use Cricut Design Space on all of your devices as long as they meet the system requirements of course. makeracademy.com/cricutkickoff/

You do not need to layer clear HTV over the white HTV for this process. The white HTV provides a suitable base for the sublimation print on dark colors.

@ Thank you for responding so timely! I also have another question I ran into when I layered my sublimation onto just the white HTV vinyl, the color seemed to lighten. For example, my print was just dark orange and black and when I lifted the sublimation off the color transferred more dull and as a light orange? Any tips? Or maybe something I did wrong?

@ Thank you, one more question, when just pressing sublimation onto a lighter shirt, what do you put in between the shirt so it doesn’t transfer through?

Glad it helped!

Here are a few tips based on the provided context that might help you improve your results: Ensure Proper Taping: Make sure you use enough heat-resistant tape to keep your design in place tightly and smoothly against your blank. This helps prevent the ink from shifting during sublimation. Preheat Your Blank: Preheat your blank to remove any wrinkles or dampness. Moisture can create a blurry sublimation design, so it's important to ensure everything is dry. Use the Right Protective Papers: Use plain white butcher paper on top to protect the heat source and plain white cardstock under the project to protect the back of a layered blank or your pressing area. Avoid using freezer paper, wax paper, teflon sheets, and parchment paper as they can interfere with your transfer. Feather Your Paper: For better results on soft surfaces, try tearing away the extra paper around the design instead of cutting it. This creates a gradual edge and helps avoid pressing the edge of the sublimation paper into the surface. Check Ink and Paper: Make sure your sublimation ink is still within its shelf life and that you are using the correct sublimation paper. If you follow these tips and still encounter issues, it might be helpful to review your heat press settings and ensure they match the recommended settings for your specific sublimation materials.

They are spaced apart by 2" each.

You can go to their guide. I most cases you can just increase the time. www.htvront.com/blogs/tutorials/heat-press-settings?srsltid=AfmBOopdcYmrTJC3Idiy2vD2MSCeHDweLJ5pbGPC6x6nJuIxGSzvIrPO

Happy to help!

While the basic sublimation process for pressing a 3" two-sided ornament would be similar to an MDF coaster, the exact instructions might differ slightly due to the smaller size and potential differences in the material's heat conductivity, so it's best to consult specific guidelines for the ornament blanks you are using. Here is a double sided tutorial. jennifermaker.com/how-to-use-cricut-infusible-ink-sheets/

Thank you!

No need to seal printable iron-on vinyl. jennifermaker.com/how-to-use-printable-vinyl-with-cricut/

I am sorry. I do don't understand the question. You can ask in the group and show a photo for better understanding of what you are asking. facebook.com/groups/cricutcraftersandmakers/

To use vellum as a "back" layer to let light shine through the card stock layers, follow these steps: Prepare the Vellum: Cut a piece of vellum to the same size as your card stock layers. This will ensure it fits perfectly within the shadow box frame. Layering the Vellum: Place the vellum behind all the card stock layers. This means the vellum will be the last layer before the back of the shadow box frame. Assembly: Once the vellum is in place, you can proceed with assembling the shadow box as usual. Insert the vellum and card stock layers into the shadow box frame, ensuring they are aligned properly. Adding Lights: Position your fairy lights or LED strip lights behind the vellum. The vellum will help diffuse the light, creating a softer and more even glow through the cut areas of the card stock. The vellum does not replace any existing layers; it is an additional layer added to the very back before putting the frame together. This helps the lights shine through the card stock more effectively by diffusing the light and preventing harsh spots or visible light sources. jennifermaker.com/lighted-shadow-box/

Thank you! I also junk I need more lights. Maybe I will look into the led strip lights. I also don’t use the inner part of the shadow box. Wonder if that made a difference. I just put lights up in the back of the shadow box frame…. I did this before I found your video on this!! I really should learn to search your videos before jumping into things unknown. Haha!! So glad to be a part of your advance group!!

I'm glad you like them!

We currently have these new ones. jennifermaker.com/shaped-edge-envelopes/ You can make a request. jennifermaker.com/projectrequests/

It is there. It is in the porcupine SVG. jennifermaker.com/how-to-use-puff-vinyl/

You can try it.

@ ok thanks

Yes, you can put a shop behind to remove the cut for the numbers. jennifermaker.com/cricut-weld-vs-attach/