2 days ago I updated the firmware of a7IV from 1.11 to 3.01. Now I can't use batteries from third-party manufacturers. 30-40 seconds after switching on, a warning pops up that stable operation is not guaranteed and the display of the charge level in percent disappears. This is another half of the trouble - the camera can turn off at any time, without saving the recording. Even on 2 stripes it is risky to record video. Sony thus decided to eliminate competitors

Which lens do you recommend to buy between those two. I only have the kit lens 16-50mm for my A6100. I am looking to replace the kit lens for just 1 lens for fan meetings and travelling. Could you please suggest. The sigma 18-50mm zoom range would be small for me in case i am far from stage.

How about while it's on the actual unit, did you try to see if it would charge via the DC-12 volt?

Is it the new patch, the battery that broke ?

I have a Small Rig battery for my Sony RX10 M4. Lasts almost as long as the Sony battery although I haven't tested it like you did. Can also be recharged via a USB-C port that is built into the battery.

Goddamn Chinese lyier so the Neewer last almost 1/3 LESS even thought they state it's "supposed" to be the same amount of mAh. I hate how they all lie about their products and mostly on batteries or flashlights, can't trust none of them.

insane you didnt do the side by side for the detail setting

thanks a lot for this comparison! i decided to buy sony because it is smaller, much cheaper and nearly sharp as tamron.

great I find my content😂😂❤❤❤ thanku friend

I have been using Neewer batteries and products for years and they are amazing. Batteries never fail on my a7Iii a7rIii or fx30 . Nice review

Does the a7c have FL preset?

The one video that explains exactly what i needed. Thank u

Nice vid thanks! Subbed.

Тhank You. I have both chargers that are in your video. And also Neewer batteries. Yes, they work less than Sony, but I bought them on Black Friday and 3 pieces of Neewer + free charger cost me the same as 1 Sony. And by the way, Sony didn’t reduce the price on Black Friday, it was still $78. I also recently bought another model of Neewer batteries, with Type-C on the body, and an increased capacity of 2400 mAh, but judging by the tests, it lasts as long as a regular Neewer 2280 mAh. I also bought an ISDN NP2 Air charger. But it burned out after 5-6 uses. I didn’t notice that it had a lot of negative reviews on Amazon and 3.5 stars. There's a reason B&H doesn't sell them at all.

What about sony 18-135 vs the sigma 28-50?

big thanks, mmcalc dont work

Vid is a thumbs down for me Yes, it's an interesting review method, which has an appeal of a strike out comp on reality TV. However it discounts a lot of user needs and functions. How was the Aoka without the extension? Was it OK indoors, but not so great outdoors?

ps Sony seems sharper than the Tamron for me. I own the Sony....but will add the Tamron 18-300 at some point.

Great vid! new subscriber from the UK :)

GREAT FREAKIN VIDEO MAN!!!! So let me help my fellow youtube crew out... We all want that sharpness in our shots including video. So When you use DETAIL, it invites that artifactual noise in the videos. When you use CRISPING, it cleans the edges of the sharp detail thus compressing the edges to reduce the noise out BUT preserving the detail(as much as possible). So if you want that nice youtube sharpness where you get that detail like his video. Use the two and yes, it's ok to go UP this time BUT don't go plus 7. I like leaving mine right at zero with a 5-6 crisping. After trying for a year to get that sharp detail(Im new to video), I figured it out as NOBODY on youtube explains exactly how. He broke down the details though big creds to this bro! So think of the crisping as your compression ratio for the sharpness detail(let's call it 1:2:0 ratio) so for every 1 point in detail you go up, use crisping at +1 to +2 points up. Even if you use more crisping, it will soften the video(similar to how using clarity to soften photos... but for video in this case). Your glass will play a big role!

Thank you for bringing the Sigma lens to this review. Now, it's clear to me that both Tamron and Sony are more or less the same (not excellent) for low-light environments. So a massive difference between 2.8 and 1.4! It seems I'm going to buy the more universal (and cheaper) zoom Sony lens + something fixed with a 1.4 aperture for indoor

00:24 organ donations LOL subscribeds thanks for the comedy

It is hard to find a channel that discuss how small difference between f4 and f2.8 in lowlight. You did it Thank you

i cant believe you havent listed ANY telephoto lens

Very informative and well thought and made video. Thank you!

Very helpful! Thank you!

Hands down the best video i have been looking for. Thanks a lot for this video. I baught a6700 and only use it on family trips and in home videos. Slog gave me headache than i tried creative style NT with some bump in saturation and the video was almost very good straight out of camera. So now I'm doing experiment to get 2 styles for outdoor and indoor and throw the slog thing out of picture. With a6700 if i can't get my video colors right straight out, what's the Difference than with 5yr old camera? I know it has 4k etc etc, bt getting colour right is 1st basic requirement of a video

Excellent comparison. Thanks.

I was going to buy 17-70 after selling 18-135 , But after seeing your 2nd video, i just bought the on-camera flash. Problem solved. Now I'm looking to buy 24mm 1.4 and that's the only 3 things i need for family travel photography. Now I'm waiting for Sigma 23mm on sale or 2nd hand deal. I would realy appreciate if you do comparison between 23 -16-30 mm sigma line . Which 1 will be better for protraits + indoors. I dont like bokeh (Please dont shoot me ) , i feel its for those who never visit good places or dont know how to use background to make ur photos pop. Plus my wife hates it , she says i spent so much to show the place and all i see is useless blobs....... could have been done in our backyard, no 1 will know lol

You talk about not liking what a tripod looks like. A tripod is just another took just like a hammer. When you buy a hammer do you worry about what your new hammer looks like or just about how well you can hit things with it.

I have their key lights and they're amazing

Thanks so much for the comparison, I have 18-135mm Sony with 6600 and was thinking of getting 17 70 and selling Sony. I am a hobbyist, so many lenses don't make sense. But after watching your video, i have decided To keep Sony as after using it on 2 familt tours we have learnt to use it wisely , like at night i used street lights to light the face and the contrast was amazing. Plus i took a beauty of a pic of my kid at full zoom. I dont think 17-70 gives enough value to upgrade from sony . But yes u can buy if u dont have 1. So i think only thing i need is a prime lens 24FE or 35mm Apsc . If u have these 2 lens, u can click 95% family pics , vids. Dont get hyped by lens comparison and go overboard. I only use 20% bokeh effect cause i have learnt that backgrounds make pic more intersting than run of the mill full on bokeh. Background tells a story.

Sony at 18'' is really wider... I saw another comparisons on the internet, and also if shot RAW and take the corrections off, it's a lot wider, seems like a 16mm or something. Might be the smaller construction that leads to vignetting but it's pretty wide, especially compared with other lens that also start at 18mm.

Nice. Thanks

Very helpful review thank you!

Thank you ! I’ve been looking all over for videos on this lens for my Fx3

kzbin.info/www/bejne/naqVeIObbd6VZ5I < Here you are running your APS-C at ISO100, if you want to use the *same* ISO level relative to the sensor size, you MUST set your full frame to ISO300, then you will see the exposure change. You are electronically setting your Full Frame sensor to a sensitivity 1.5x less than the APS-C sensor, this will result in a lot more noise on your APS-C and not a comparable image.

Woah woah woah, ISO is calculated per square inch. So yes, ISO20 on a phone is not the same ISO as on larger sensor sizes, it's like converting from cm to inch. The formula isn't multiplying by crop factor though, it's ISO multiplied by (crop factor * 2). For example, if we take a Fuji X-S20 APS-C and a Sony ZV-E1 full frame and their native ISOs, if we convert them for the respective crop factor equivalents: 1. APS-C figures - Fuji: ISO 1,250 (640 for DR 400%) -- Sony: Dual native at ISO 200 and 4,000 2. Full Frame Figures: Fuji: ISO 4,000 (2,000 for DR 400%) -- Sony: Dual native at ISO 640 and 12,800 You can try this in practice, it absolutely works. This is a common misunderstanding but your friend was right. Tony explains why this is in detail here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bHrQZYqVbsefnrs

The difference in focal length is about 15%, so you would expect the difference in shutter to be about 15% different too. E.g. a 100mm f/2.8 lens captures 2x more light than a 50mm f/2.8 lens :) - not sure why there was no shutter difference at f/2.8 hmm

The new ones like the smallrig one with USB-C right on the battery is pretty handy, allowing you to reduce the footprint of what you're bringing :)

The Rode sounded much better to me plus you don't need to power it, that's amazing... You should make more videos :)

Ein großes Kompliment für das Teilen deiner interessanten Einblicke und Erfahrungen . Danke für dieses tolle Video !!!!

I appreciate you trying to be fair and objective, but having owned both Sirui tripods and monopods, and now Leofoto, I have to call you out Sir. Leofoto simply outclasses Sirui. Not saying Sirui is bad choice, just that Leofoto is better. My first Leofoto purchase was a $69.00 Carbon fiber Monopod from B&H. Thought it would be a ‘cheap’ way to check it the brand? That little stick is stiffer than my ROBUS, and my big Sirui Monopod, which I DO like. So I ordered up a couple of Leofoto legs, and with the ball heads as a package, and am even more impressed. The fit and finish and packaging and attention to detail are really good. Twist locks are butter smooth ( You must have had a bad copy! ) and they lock down tight, little to no flex. And Leofoto USA are now based out of Louisiana, and I have received excellent Customer Support. Of course, YMMV Good review, I try and be fair but objective and realistic in my comments. Stay safe and Happy Shooting!

This video helps me a lot. BTW, I am new to sony and my new camera is Sony a7c2.

If I want to film everyday life, travel, walk tour to capture the environment and product reviews where I will behind the camera most of the time to do the talking, elements record for game making and I want to experiment music making with singing and instrument too and the video will be shot with a Panasonic HC-X1500 camcorder and Sony A7RV, what minimal multi use cases no show on screen audio setups are right for me, should I get just one stereo super cardioid shotgun mic or an omnidirectional audio recorder to do it all or combination of them to cover stereo and mono needs? That camcorder has an optional handle with LED and 2 XLR inputs but the setup will be tall even before add the mics, is XLR necessary and will I able to use the XLR handle on the camcorder as music recorder? The gear I have in mind are the unique looking stereo Sennheiser MKE 440, Deity V Mic D4 Duo, Sony ECM-B1M, Sony PCM-A10 recorder, Zoom H2n, Saramonic SR-VRM1, Roland R07 and Zoom H3-VR. For photography, I shoot mainly for document life and creative shots and potentially photograph for photorealistic shots, I haven't know how to get photography gig yet, I will use the A7RV to shoot photo but do you think it's for me I should go for RX100 VII, or something in between, but I think there's no much reasons other than weight to get unpocketable compact cameras because you get less handling and EVF but still need to carry with a bang or hang on neck, I know I can get great shots with RX100 VII or Lumix LX10 but I have some photographs ideas that might only able to achieve with interchangeable camera which is full body person with background blur from a distance, ultramacro and I want to try to join competitions. I not a bokeh person but a story and creativity driven person and prefer most of my shots to be fully in focused, and sometime I wonder do I really need to put so much effort into carry these gears when I can just google the photos I want to look at that other people already took, what you guys think, X2D, A7RV, G9 ii, G95, GX9, RX10 IV, LX100 ii/D Lux 7, LX10, RX100 VII or something else? I was plan to get the Sony 16-35 F4 PZ & 70-200mm F4 MACRO ii with 2X tele converter which can get 1:1 macro and 600mm digitally too but that camcorder can reach that hence it's less needed and just I need to figure out ways I can get more magnification of macro hopefully with a tele lens too to reach things further away. I hope there is a camera I can use with my left hand while using the camcorder at my right hand!

which lens do you recommend to buy I am confused between the Tamron 17-70mm and Sony 18-135 I have sony a6000 with 16-50mm kit lens and 55-210 zoom lens. I am looking for a replacement of the kit lens for parties , weddings indoor and traveling outdoor sightseeing etc can you please suggest

Greatest video, man!

The Sigma looks out of place on the 7C. If you like tiny check out the Sigma 90 F2.8

Cine1 PRO looks great on this shot

God that was heart-wrenching about Joby ... I'm sorry for your loss.