Horrible company to work with if you have a problem.

How do you know the Amp hours on a power station? Thanks.

Great idea You came up with, not everybody have a small fortune/the need for an expensive powerstation. Since this was meant to be an economy setup, then I'd like to add something. The resistor is an eight dollar item, but a carpenters pencil can be used instead (sharpen it in both ends, and do like in the video) 🙂If whoever need to make something similar, then look at the need - 2000 watt is a lot, but if the need is a lamp, the fridge and maybe a small tv/laptop, then a 1000 watt PURE SINEWAVE inverter will go far, and is less expensive. The 200 amp battery is a great choice, don't go lower (the fridge is powerhungry) Have a great weekend....

But it still charging the caps untill you unhook it so thats some what of a load

Well, not unexpected considering these are all rebranded batteries from fly-by-night vendors and not OEM batteries. They mis-program the internal BMS all the time... because many of these vendors don't actually know anything about how lithium batteries should work. It's really hit or miss. The over-current protection features on many of these batteries is either straight-out broken, or set to far too high an amperage that makes paralleling the batteries unsafe. Will Prowse on his channel does serious over-current testing and quite a few batteries are dangerous. In anycase, if turning the inverter off while leaving it connected didn't wake the battery back up, then the inverter's input capacitor is big enough to cause the BMS to think that the system is still shorted. Which would be a misconfigured BMS or a BMS with just straight-out badly written firmware. Probably the best solution (beyond not using the brand at all) is to install a disconnect switch or a DC breaker that you can flip off and on. -Matt

That's very troubling for sure. I usually use a marine style switch for a shut off safety, with a large 500 ohm resistor in parallel with the switch to maintain some value to keep the caps charged, even with the switch off. Maybe try that as a test?

I did another video were I tested this battery and others. It doesn't wake up when voltage is applied. kzbin.info/www/bejne/r53adZSpe7CGbNU

Hey buddy, this is not hate mail. I have bought three of those batteries because they work just as they were designed. And like others have said On the comments About this battery shutting down, this is normal And what fired it up is that you disconnected it And then touch your voltmeter to it. Your solar Panels for any other charger will automatically wake up the battery again. you should do a very short video Letting everyone know about this So that you do not spread misinformation Unnecessarily about this battery

Ecoflow anker is only 6000 watts so to get 12000 watts you will need to buy two power stations linked together to get 12000 watts and thats for these two units is over 10 thousand dollars plus another tousand for a transfer panel with only 10 breaker for two thousand you can buy a 12000 watt inverter and connect it to your existing breaker panel and back charge the batteries via an outlt way cheaper and better

TEMU dirt cheap & fantastic! May take 1-2 weeks for delivery 😮

This really is an excellent portable power station! And a true solar generator too.

Thanks for sharing. I put one 150ah together recently for $260 include tax (Lifepo4 battery=$168+ 1500w pure sine inverter=$65).

Made one like this a few years back with a BIG Marine DUAL PURPOSE battery and and inverter with an charger.... When the battery is done, will change it to a lithium (in the past 3-5 years thir cost has dropped lots).

Might be slightly more efficient if you used a 24v or better 48v battery and inverter, provided the price isn't a barrier. Ideally you will also need a charger for the battery and possibly a MPPT converter if you use with Solar PV panels.

Do you have their customer service e-mail? I want to ask some questions before I purchase a few.

To answer your question. no, it's not as good as an ECOFLOW which is plug-and-play and has great software. It is nice and there is a place for this, I just don't know where. It's not easily transportable in separate components.

How can something be "very" one-of-a-kind ; i.e. "unique" ?

Great demonstration. Wouldn't recharging the battery at home require purchasing a separate AC to 12v DC battery charger? Your description made it appear that the battery could be connected directly to an AC wall socket.

Want to get in touch with you to reset jmd bms smart. I am unable to go to control panel from app

Can you show us how to install this reflectix onto a brick wall or on a glass window? Thank you

if you are rich.. go with 48v... *(rack battery) $600-1400 ea if you poor go with 48v. (4 x 12V 100ah mini batteries) $100 ea on temu this is from a guy who went 12v first. the inverters at 12v suck and you cant run your air fryer. if you dont wanna battle with batteries get a nice power station if rich anker ecoflow bluetti if you want cheaper pecron or oupes.

Those asbestos shingles give me good memories.

even if you have the money, don't go out and buy a big power station. if you can't or won't be carrying a power station around, it's a dumb thing to buy. not only because you can easily build a comparable one for half or a third the price, but for other huge reasons. if one element of a power station fails, you can easily end up with a 60 pound, $2k paper weight while sitting in the dark hungry with a dead phone. also, having every electric powered device you own in one spot severely limits how you construct and live in your space. i have a small self-built 200ah lithium system that i hardwired all around my campervan to power my fridge, freezer, and almost a dozen usb and 12v cigarette style outlets, that i power a ton of different lighting, several fans, an air purifier, small bettery charger, and where i can charge multiple other different items. i have one small power station that i use outside to keep my screen charging as i use it, and to power small watt things like a sewing machine. and a medium sized one that can run anything under 1,200 watts, like an instant pot, and power tools like a drill, jigsaw, etc. outside. both were cheap and serve the very useful purpose of being easily portable outside- while my panels are still charging my main batteries. plus these power stations serve as backup to my main setup in case of emergency. but the main benefit is that i built my hardwired system- for 1/3th the cost of a lesser capacity power station-, and so if any element fails, i can easily replace that element for a tiny fraction of the cost of a big power station. and i can easily and endlessly upgrade and expand on this system.

The idea of this is basically good but how to charge the battery in a car? My question may sound stupid but I have no clue about electricity and I dont want to put something together that some day will burn my vehicle. So Im better of with a ready to use powerstation even if it's more expensive. Cheers.

Here in Asia you can buy a hydraulic crimper for $15.

I just use 12v stuff. No inverter needed and you can get four times the capacity for half the price as a power station. Have a tiny inverter I use for a few things with a cigarette plug adapter.

Which one is the propane low pressure regulator ?

So wait, it charges from solar panels with no charge controller?

In the title you state 100W, yet throughout the vid you say 200W, and you show 2 small panels next to 1 large panel. If each of the small panels were 200W there would be something really to get excited about.

good consept but on web page order battery with hub is much cheaper than ordering the battery 100 amp bms is on the low side should be 200amp for good battery you need to jump start with a 12 v battery if battery goes too low or gets a short

Stop the madness. If people need a nice stationary unit and learn how stuff works along the way then this is great. But to say this is comparable to a power station for 1/2 the price is a bit ridiculous. It doesn't have a solar charge, an AC charger, no various DC outputs, no wifi/BT connection, NOT portable so please let's not compare. Power stations have gotten so cheap these days that you're really not saving that much money building your own. I got a couple of Dabbsson1400 pro for $480 each this past BF. 2400w/1380wh and even has a TT-30 plug for my camper. Has everything I mentioned that makes a power station, a power station. I have DIY at home too to run various things but again, this is NOT a replacement for power stations. Lastly before people say that power station I mention has too little capacity, I can just use any cheapo Lifepo4 battery to feed more capacity into the power station.

The blue seems like it would be safer but it seems most people are referring the radiant one.

I love mine!

Kinda off subject. Would it be better to have two lifepo4 batteries and an inverter, or 1 battery and a power station, and hook battery to battery station to increase storage? This is mainly for emergency lighting (like led lamps), power for wifi and computer, and charging phone, then maybe a small wattage heater if need be. I already have a couple inverters, a 500 and a 3500 watt.

If you are putting it on a cart why not put a small petrol genset on there too? AC when you need it and also recharge the battery as you're using it.

Too bad LiTime batteries are so unreliable.

looks cool if only they sold that doohicky to fit on any 12v battery

pretty neat. I know this is off topic but don't Prismatic cells charge/discharge like other cells? I can't seem to get a charge above 13.6ish and beginning to wonder if I got the wrong BMS. I just HAD to build one! lol

on those breakers to your panels. will the voltage rating on the breaker matter? i'm in the middle of buying everything to do a small set up. in series, that voltage can add up. on that style breaker i have only seen then go up to 48v. im still really new to all this.

Its not that its cheaper ,its that you can replace anything that goes bad which is the best deal ! If a whole unit goes bad then you are screwed

Why are you charging it at 13.25 volts when it's an LFP battery? With that CC/CV charger, it should be set to at least 14.4v. At the end, it was 15.87 volts? What on earth are you doing?

Good video. I've owned this battery for 2 summers, and one user application not mentioned that I bought it for is boating/fishing. The standard, higher amp output at the lugs powers a trolling motor, while the hub runs smaller electronics and charging, while a small onboard solar panel helps maintain a charge throughout the day, Incidentally, you CAN use the 12v lug output while the hub is in place and operating. I do this routinely. Thanks for another good video.

Some batteries when they shut down from over current you have to wake up the BMS with a small amout of voltage. Ive seen one youtuber use a 9 volt battery to wake up his BMS

That Battery<->Hub Anderson connector looks like a SB50 knock-off (Anderson compatible "power poles"). Search "75 Amp battery connector" for the power poles kits.. Typically solder lugs (you need a small torch). Typically 6, 8, or 10 AWG so we're talking 50A, roughly. Kinda hard to tell but the contacts don't look like the larger ones used in SB175 housings. The little power poles for the solar input take 10, 12, or 14 AWG contacts. Typically MC4-style crimps (that fold the tabs into the wire, not flat crimps). Search "45A Quick Connect". These are marketed as anything from 30A to 45A but in reality they top out at 10 AWG so... 20A for continuous power (roughly), probably safe to 30A with short cabling. But definitely not anywhere near 45A regardless of the marketing. The battery BMS is obviously undersized... a bit of a red flag in my view. And I wouldn't push 100A through those power poles. Its useful to have kits for these things sitting around. I go through tons of the little ones and medium ones. It's really convenient to make 10 AWG cables up using them that I then reuse as-needed. A battery having power poles built-in is a fine idea... but its an extra expense and there's also a question of the potential lack of fusing in that configuration. The modularity is a cool idea tho. -Matt

I hate to be that guy but where is the converter that you're going to use to charge the battery because Eco flow uses one that charges that size battery in under an hour and to purchase a device like that you're looking at somewhere between two to three hundred dollars and you clearly just left that out

I have watched a couple of your videos and enjoyed them. It vexes me, though, when you referred to the resister you used as "this thing", and in this video you refer to the resistor as charging up. Of course, resistors don't charge up. You might explain that you are using the resistor to minimize the spark or something like that. I really do like your videos, though!

this is great when you can work on bench...most of my projects are under a hood, unfortunately not best option.

Now if you had an inverter that could also charge the battery, AND, could do both at the same time, you might even have the equivalent of an ecoflow. And if you used a battery, such as the LI time with bluetooth, you could also have an app to monitor it remotely.

They either saw your video or saw a spike in sales and raised their prices. LOL. Even so, it's way less than what I paid for my 200AH only a couple of years ago.

Thanks for showing us how to get emergency back up power for less cost. Your video was well done and to the point.