Hello, I've set it up and it sounds great, but I have a problem, when you activate it, the damn "pop" sounds, is there any way to correct that? Thank you

Hi there, what is the name of jack socket that you are used for the input and output?

Can you tell me a bridge that would fit that bass if I need a replacement? Color doesn't matter to me.

I so happy that I drilled the hole too small before I watched this ! I hope you have another video that shows how to wire the two existing wires in the pedal to the three pins on the jack. New subscriber here.

Thank you so much !!!!

Master Handwork! Subbed!

Sof kaha pi hai apki

Brilliant that Rob. I'm just having a bash at getting and old MiJ EB0 copy bass up and running. Might have to make a mini sidewinder if it's possible, as the pickup cavity is quite small. I think it housed a guitar pickup rather than a bass pup.

I did this with a Strat style project axe recently. I went around to car wrap shops asking for a 12X12 piece of scrap in carbon fiber and was told that that was yesterday’s news. What I got for just a few bucks was a piece of Forged carbon, with removable cover that you peel off afterwards, and pressure sensitive adhesive. Simply cut, peel & stick, rub smooth, trim with an exacting blade, and that’s it. If you’ve never seen forged carbon, you gotta check it out. The finished looks black and metallic but it’s also prismatic. It reflects the color spectrum under the lights.

Nicely done. Cool video format too.

Zero frets are always better than standard nuts.

Superb design.

Great work on that neck, Rob. Looking forward to the rest of the series. Question; did these guitars sell well in Australia back then?

00:17:00 What's the deal with the paper clip? Is it's aperture, when closed, the same as the fretwire? @Rob Mods. & @ 00:28:02 What's the material between the fret guard and the fretboard?

❤👌👌👌

Good to see you again. I love those 60s era Japanese guitars too. Before they started copying. They’re quirky in the best way. Unfortunately other people seem to like them to…

Hey rob. Great to see you again. Missed you a lot. ❤❤❤

Hey Rob great video as always! But I have a question, why are you using titebond when installing frets? I thought CA glue is more common option for that

You are a master.

wow such a wealth of information! Concise no bs

Cool! I use duct seal too, to hold components in place as I solder.

Rob, great job you do every the time. I have a Stingray 1976 from a friend at home with the preamp detached. So I need to know if it's working. I checked your homepage with no luck. I'm very interested to se a more clear view over how you checked the preamp. I have some problem to see the details. And I don't have the schematic skills.

My favorite thing about the Dano is the absolutely bonkers tone knob, it does VERY little through most of its range, and then right up top it clicks into this absolutely brutal chainsaw sound.

Now you just need to take all the hardware off and polish the rest. Good job looks great for a quick repair.

Good stuff. Just what I needed to see. Well done.

Hey mate, Are you able to thin out a guitar neck for me? I sent a message on messenger a couple week ago but dont think its been opened. its an LSL T-bone

I like using springs instead of foam.

Can anyone help me with some troubleshooting, i've made this as an onboard for my Pbass, following the diagrams its all correct, i've put the P pickup wire directly into the pull pot where it would feed from the blend pot. Im just getting a really quiet kinda distorted farty sound through the bass now, any ideas what might be the issue, could it be the caps?

look up the dan armstrong strat mod - you can generate the N+M in series and B+M in series using a blender pot as well as parallel out of phase N+M and B+M - the best part being you can reuse the tone pot and you can have some variability rather than all or nothing (as when you have a switch) kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooipYn9tfKeMnLc

Great video. I wan't to ask, do you think its possible to apply this to one of the Sire preamps thats are available to buy? Would be cool to try and put one in a pedal type enclosure.

Great training video, I'll put 1/10th that amount of work into mine!

I really like the option of getting maximum top end out of basses & guitars (you can always take it away later) and find less pot load make a noticable differece. A favortie mod I do for Les Pauls is split coils, flip one magnet & wire that PUP out-of-phase, single tone control and a bass cut tone, plus what we call "Blast Thru" from a pull switch on one of the tone controls, which gets rid of everything except the PUPs and selector switch. The Blast Thrut adds a sublte high top end that can be really nice with cleaner tone and gentle chord pick raking or funky stuff. I have a 74 Fender P bass that I installed an additional bridge P pickup into about 45 years ago. . . so it has 2 x orignal era P-Pickups. In a perfect world my P-Bass would be: - No load volume pots on both PUPs for max top end (Love this idea). - Switch to make PUPs go in Series (pull on Neck Volume) which is an amazing sound IMO (I have done this to every passive J Bass I own). - Tone hi-cut (normal) and also a low-cut (bass dump). .hopefully when you pull the tone pot switch it becomes a Bass Dump control. . . . all be done without more than the 3 controls (like a J). Can it be done? This is going to make my head hurt. Am I crazy?

Terrific work as usual. Would love to see how this one ended up. Thanks again for sharing your invaluable knowledge on all things guitar :-)

My off/on button is idk like loose and idk how to fix it

Nice job. But do you know how much a set of nut slot files are? It’s far cheaper to get a luthier to make a nut

Excellent video! Short, straight to the point but still you can learn few tricks. We need more of those kind of, not useless talking and sh...!

Is it possible to have two S-1 Push switches, one to turn on the neck pickup and the other to get the guitar into series for any of the pickups

If i have a photo of a design can this be used somehow ?

Why did you use a knob from a toaster?

Wanted to thank you, I saw this a coupe years ago and saved it. This past year, I sold a 2014 Dave Murray signature strat that was like new. When I opened the case to clean it I voticed a tiny chip. I was pissed and ready to let the buyer know but I thought, screw it I'm trying this. I had already purchased the 480 and had it on hand. I tried it, and Success! No way to tell the difference. It polished up nicely. Thanks!!!!

If only it wasn't impossible to find gold J and P bass pickup covers. Been looking for months, at this point don't care if it's plastic or metal or I'll just paint the damn ones I have lol

6:34 pickup soup! Yum my favorite!😋

Seeing the puddy for a 3rd hand is worth the price of admission, alone. Ingenius

Me likee! EDIT: shopping list - soldering iron, rainbow ribbon cable, rotary switch thingy and maybe even a toggle switch instead. I was looking for a summer project so this and the Squier will do nicely.

when the volume is low on 1 side check if there is litle iron peaces/dirt on the speaker at ear side of the litle speaker ...i had this and only litle volume came out ,now fixed.

That plastic is known as Polyphenylene Sulfide (PPS) and is known for its characteristic metallic sound when clanged.

Rob great channel, what sort of usb scope do you use. Thanks

Do the 2 and 4 positions still noise-cancel when switched to series?

Damn, I liked the beak

@robmods How would you wire a JB with the coils in series and still retain hum-canceling properties of the counterwound & opposite-polarity pair of pickups? Series coils boosts low-end so well, sounds much better to me. But I want to still be able to change the blend between neck and bridge pickups and vary overall volume - while retaining the best hum cancellation I can.