To my knowledge the feature has been available on all versions since at least 2010. The buttons and menus may look a little different but the same features are there and it should operate in the same way.

Here is a forum on Adobe where someone posted the same issue: community.adobe.com/t5/photoshop-ecosystem-discussions/layers-do-not-overlap-enough/m-p/13104897. Without seeing your images I can't say for sure why this is happening. If you still have problems after troubleshooting and looking at the responses on Adobe, contact me through my website form www.focusedcamera.net and I will see if I can help you. Thanks for watching my video! :)

Without seeing what you are describing I am not sure I can help you. If you will go to my website www.focusedcamera.net and use the CONTACT form to email me, I can get in touch with you to try to help you figure it out.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)

Yes, that would be confusing to see a telescope lens where the aperture is listed as maybe 100mm but then going to cameras/photography where the 100mm is referring to focal length and aperture is something completely different. I don't know much about telescopes and their optics but I do love seeing the photos people take of our sky and universe using them!

I am glad you found it to be helpful! Thanks for watching :)

It is a similar process of stacking and then using masking and the eraser tools you reveal the areas you want and hide the areas you don't want and blend them together. I will see if I can find a tutorial for you. If you would, please email me at [email protected] so I can reply there with what I've found. Happy to help, but it's too complicated to give typed directions here. Thanks for watching my video!

There are many third party manufacturers that make lenses that will fit Canon. As long as the lens mount is the correct version for your Canon then they should be fine. The 4000D is an APS-C camera so you can use EF or EF-S lenses or third party lenses with EF mounts (like Vivitar, Tokina, Tamron, Sigma, etc.). You can also use lenses with other mounts with the correct adapters. You can also check directly with Canon or the lens manufacturer if you are ever in doubt. Most have support by chat, email, or phone on their websites and they can answer questions about compatibility.

Yes, it does! The FTZ adapter will adapt the F mount lenses to the new Z mount mirrorless camera bodies. When choosing a Z mount lens most of the lens descriptors for focal length, maximum aperture values, and glass upgrades as outlined in the video are still the same. Thanks for watching my video! :)

Hi, thanks for watching my video. The ring light can be used with continuous light and it does have a flash function as well as a left or right side only flash option. However, it is not designed to be a strobe/flash for portraits. It is designed for macro or close-up photography. For a portrait photography strobe/flash you would want something with higher power and that triggers faster. This was one of my first videos ever and was intended to be an unboxing - just to show what was in the box, not as a full review - so sorry if that was not what you were expecting and if you were disappointed that I didn't include more details. At some point I will probably make a video that actually demonstrates a product similar to this one as I don't think this product is even on the market anymore. Again, thanks for watching and for taking the time to leave a comment. :)

Glad the video was helpful. Here are links to most of the cheat sheets: drive.google.com/file/d/1aUGCW8vLPc2CtZsbbI9-VXqbhzKQkubn/view drive.google.com/file/d/1fUO3vdhvwqH6o-kt0yc2sSE9zu_yrWn5/view drive.google.com/file/d/1fUO3vdhvwqH6o-kt0yc2sSE9zu_yrWn5/view focusedcamera.weebly.com/uploads/1/2/7/7/127775132/basic_lens_markings.jpg And if you go to my website www.focusedcamera.net/ then go to the resources section there are lessons (ebooks) and more cheat sheets. Many of them are free and some are paid. The ebooks section is where you will find more about focal length (it is in the Lens Guide) and depth of field (which covers aperture, DoF, and hyperfocal distance) and many other topics.

Hi! Most of the letter abbreviations have remained the same even for the Z mount. You need a Z Nikkor lens but then the DX or FX designations for APS-C/Crop lens and Full Frame lens are going to remain the same. The focal length numbers are still going to be in mm such as 12-28mm is a zoom and a single number like 20mm is a prime lens. The maximum aperture numbers such as f/2.8 are still read the same way as well. There may be a few additional letter codes that Nikon has added to identify upgrades on a lens that are not in this video, but the basic ones like VR for Vibration Reduction are still the same. Here is a list of the Nikkor Z line lenses offered - if you are looking at a lens on this list I'd be happy to tell you more about the markings on that lens if you let me know which one you are considering: www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/camera-lenses/mirrorless-lenses/index.page

@@FocusEdCamera that was my question the Fx and dx still denote full and crop

You could try this method to align and stack the images but to really get the best out of real estate photos you will need to use masking and an HDR merge. I don’t have a video on that and it takes a bit longer to explain/demonstrate. Here is a video for architectural photography on a channel specially for photography in that industry. Hopefully this will help you out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIGnpp2imNamnc0si=t7RaSL_bI3i1tbBa

@@FocusEdCamera Thanks a lot

Este enlace le llevará a su sitio web. www.kentfaith.com/KF01.2487_nd2-nd2000-nd-filter-kf-concept-nano-k-series-67mm?tracking=65d382a68c0a8

The video demo used a really old version, I think it was CS5 (to demonstrate that even older paid versions prior to subscription-based Ps have this). The link to the screenshots and written directions (drive.google.com/file/d/1mv1i-utsJnohO7DH1U-enfPn15weVosv/view) is for the newer version (subscription-based). Photoshop has updated several times since I made the written directions, but the process and steps remain basically the same from CS5 until now, you start by going to File - Scripts - Load Files into Stack.

In this test case in the video, yes. All the images were at different focus points. I used a macro focus rail and used only a few shots. In some stacked images you might have 3 to 4 times as many, but each one was at a slightly different focus point. Stacking can also be used to create panoramas (if you take a series of photos with some overlap as you pan across) and there are also HDR merge options. The process is basically the same, but some of the selections you make in the process will differ depending on what you are merging. You can also use this same stack method for photos of things where all the images are at the same focus and the result can give you more detail.

I would recommend a few possibilities. If your camera was supplied with an 18-55mm kit lens, that can get you started with all of the subjects you mentioned. Eventually, you will want something better because the kit lenses are not the best quality and have narrower/adjustable apertures. For street photography most people like something small and low profile so you can be kind of inconspicuous. A small pancake lens could work but when you get really wide angles like down below 20mm you can get distortion that is not flattering for images of people. A 50mm lens is a really good lens for street photography. It is small and Canon offers several versions. The 50mm f1.8 is an excellent lens and is only about $130 so very budget-friendly. For tours and landscapes, you might want a zoom like the kit lens (or a better version) for the variety of focal lengths. The 18mm gives you the wider view for a landscape and the zoom to 55mm lets you get closer views and is a better focal length for portraits/people. A 50mm like the f1.8 mentioned above could work for all three. However, 50mm may not be wide enough for some landscapes unless you don't mind stitching the photos together in editing from multiple shots. Inside (on tours) it may not be a wide enough angle to capture a room (you can't back up far enough to get it all in view). So to really cover your bases something like a 24-70mm f2.8L lens would be a good option (but then you have a rather sizable lens that isn't as discreet for street photography). Sorry that there isn't a more straightforward answer. To complicate matters a bit more, the 60D is an APSC (crop sensor) camera, which means that you have to do some conversions to really understand what angle of view you can get with each lens. The website/app called mmcalc can give you the "equivalent" focal length for your camera. Basically, if you are not familiar, the angle of view you would see on a 50mm lens will appear different from that same lens on a full-frame camera like a 5D. So when I say a 50mm is good for street photography, you may find on the 60D that the angle of view isn't optimal because the conversion or equivalent focal length is more like 80mm on your camera. Which brings me back to the kit lens. The kit lens is compact, and has a wider angle of 18mm (on a full frame, more like 24mm on your 60D) which is still wide enough for most enthusiast photography on tours and general landscapes. It has a range of zoom levels that are good for street (and compact size is nice too). It zooms to 55mm which on your camera is equivalent to something close to an 85mm which is a great focal length for portraits. The kit lens is an "all around" lens for beginners and can get you started in many types of photography which I figure is why they sell so many of them with and individually from the cameras. A used kit lens is about $50-60. If you decide you want to try a 24-70mm lens you could always rent one before buying and there are some good deals used (try KEH or MPB they sell used with a warranty for about $600). If you decide to get the 50mm f/1.8 I would just buy it new. The savings of $10-20 for a used one isn't probably worth it. You should be able to get one of these fairly easily at a Best Buy or similar electronics store and hopefully they have a return policy (possible restock fee) if it doesn't work out. If you have a kit lens, set it to 50mm and try that focal length out and see if you think it will work. Another option for a prime lens is the EFS 24mm f2.8 for about $130 new or $110 refurbished from Canon directly. The 24mm is close to a 35mm "look" on your camera, wide for landscape and small size for street. Feel free to go to my website and message me on my email there if you want more info or if this "book" I wrote left you with more questions than answers! Good luck! And thanks for watching my video :)

I am glad it helped you, thanks for watching 😀

Glad it helped you, thanks for watching :)

It isn’t always considered a con but aps-c is a smaller sensor size. This typically means that it is harder to get the blur/bokeh behind a subject compared to a full frame sensor among other things. Whenever you see a lens focal length like 50mm it refers to an angle of view when on full frame. A crop aps-c will have a narrower angle of view with that same lens (a crop factor typically about 1.5-1.6x) meaning that the 50mm behaves more like a 75-80mm. On longer focal lengths like like 200mm it means the effective focal length is closer to 300mm. This can make aps-c cameras a good option for long distance subjects like wildlife or sports - you get more “reach” with the lens. The website mmcalc.com (or their app) provides a basic calculator that will show you the effective focal lengths for a specific lens. There are depth of field calculators and simulators that can show you the effect of crop (apsc) cameras vs full frame and the resulting depth of field for different camera and lens combos. These are the main key differences. Most of the “better” lenses are designed for full frame cameras so that is another reason. Let me know if you need more explanation. Thanks for watching my video! 😃

In the past the gold ring and/or letter N in gold emblem have been considered the pro line of lenses which would be their equivalent to Canon L or Sony GM. For the new mirrorless they are using the letter S. Of course there can be exceptional lenses that are not considered pro so I always research and compare before buying using sites like DXO Mark, Camera Decision, or the in-depth reviews posted by Ken Rockwell.

@@FocusEdCamera thanks