@@brokengaming4906 Runs amazing! I don’t ride it as much as my Yamaha but it runs flawlessly. Probably only put about 20-25 hours in it so far. I abuse it hard too

Glad to hear it! That sounds like it might be the hose coming off of the cylinder head. It is right under the intake manifold. I have the service manual linked in the description. Look on page 254 at the exploded view of the cooling system. Hopefully that will help you make sense of it. The 12F intake manifold is a little different but the cylinder heads are exactly the same

@@rowlandrestorations thanks. I’ll have a look at the manual. The hose seemed to come short of getting all the way under the intake manifold…

Looking at the manual I believe the head we purchased did not come with the head cooling pipe that it connects to and the core we sent back had it on it....

@@outdoorAllard Damn! That sucks. Well It could have been rotted out anyway so might as well get a new one. I ordered mine from Jetstar in Japan. I received it less than a week and was half the price of any US supplier. The only downside is shipping can be pricy, so weigh your options and see if you need to order anything else. The OEM parts from there are SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper jetskiparts.jp/products/32144-3709?_pos=1&_psq=KAWASAKI+OEM+PIPE+%7C+32144-3709&_ss=e&_v=1.0

@@Millennial1031 I haven’t gotten a great read yet. My best GPS run on it so far is 60.0mph but it was choppy and I know for certain my jet pump impeller clearance isn’t perfect. If you’re hitting 60, I would say that’s right on for a stock machine. You might be able to get more with a single water box and removing the air box. I would say enjoy it. You can do a compression test and see how those numbers look but I would say you’ve got a healthy ski

@@rowlandrestorations tried 3 different testers and I’m at about 120 which is low, but ski feels good.

@@Millennial1031 Hmm, I would say that is low. Are you testing it after running it so there's heat in it? Are you holding the throttle wide open when cranking? Those will drastically affect the numbers. If you're hitting 60 I would say that's pretty good. And even if the numbers are showing low, if they are all close to each other (<10% per cylinder) then don't mess with it

@@Millennial1031 Nice! Good luck. Once you get into it, it’s not too bad

Head bolts need at least 2 torque passes. First is 17 ft/lbs, then 43 ft/lbs final. Camshaft cap is about 9 ft/lbs or 104 in-lbs. Its on page 181 in the service manual. www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/e5rpmgbaw1ea9qcbq1fsw/STX-15F-service-manual.pdf?rlkey=2l0hf045bil73j4okmy6z0szd&e=1&dl=0

Awesome! I'm glad it helped!

Hahaha oh ya. That me.

Great video, i have a 12f 2006, almost same issue, i found water in my cylinders and water mix with oil.

@@douglasweeks7407 pretty much the same ski so you can try those things and see. I’d also suggest to check the exhaust manifold cuz that could be letting water back flow into the cylinders if it’s rotted out. I would start there before anything else and see what it looks like

Thanks! I reused them as well. After about 3 uses I would toss them but this was its first rebuild so I had no worries about using them

Awesome! Glad to hear of another one being saved! That should be a killer car with that stroker!

So the first thing is do a compression test and see if any cylinder is obviously low. Your oil cooler should be located under the exhaust. You can remove and inspect that and hopefully that is your issue. Some of the Yamaha 1800 are prone to cracked cylinder heads and that's not always easily shown by a compression test either. Only way to find out is to start checking the different components. Hope this helps and good luck!

Definitely! Better than it sitting in a field anyway lol. I appreciate the support!

Haha thanks! You do what you can with what ya got! Nice! Have fun!

Sorry to hear that! Hopefully it's just the oil cooler for you but let me know how it goes!

Thanks! You can install it either way. It doesn't matter. Good luck wrenching!

Thank you very much.

Bought the bike for $200 in 2020. Spent I think $150 on a piston kit. $360ish for plastics, probably another $100-200 in supplies in paint, $275 for exhaust. Also bought tires and I think they ran about $200. I think when I added it up it was about $1500ish

Not bad I picked one up yesterday for $200 but worse condition. Missing more stuff.

@@xips420 Nice! Good luck with the build! Some of the engine parts can be hard to find but hopefully you can find what you need!

Oh I definitely know what you mean! They had great styling!

I appreciate that! Thanks!

Seriously! Thanks man! I appreciate it!

It cool i just read one of your other comments 🙂

Yup! I would just say inspect them closely and make sure there is no visible taper to them. The costs add up quick when rebuilding, so I say reuse where you can!

No worries! It connects to the bottom of the catch can. It allows the oil vapors collected in the catch can to drain back down to the oil pan

@@rowlandrestorations i will have more stupid questions on my install thanks for responding

@@dproulx7380 No worries! Happy to help!

Great questions! So that extra hole you see in the exhaust ports is a passage to the Reed valves in the valve cover. It was Kawasaki's way of emissions control using secondary air injection in the exhaust. It has no bearing on performance or anything and the later cylinder heads (maybe 2008-newer) blocked those ports and removed the ports in the valve covers. Hope this answers your question!

Great question! If you know the crankshaft hasn't been ground / resized, then go with standard (STD) bearings. To be certain, you can measure the crankshaft journal diameter and compare it with the manual. Page 8-4 and 8-5. I attached a link to the manual if you need it. Hope this helps! www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/e5rpmgbaw1ea9qcbq1fsw/STX-15F-service-manual.pdf?rlkey=2l0hf045bil73j4okmy6z0szd&dl=0

Lol, sorry it wasn’t clear in the video, I did NOT replace them. It’s running fine. There a tools to measure the stretch of the bolts so it would be interesting to see how much some used ones are stretched over new ones. I really wasn’t worried about it. If you were to follow the factory’s recommendation on every single part, they’d have you throw out almost everything during rebuilds and the cost would be almost as much as an entire new ski

Search “rotor holder 57001-1544”. I bought a used one off eBay, but I think Partzilla might be able to get them. They most likely will order it from a Kawasaki dealer

The stinger where it goes into the waterbox definitely had a few holes. I didn't film that part but I did braze in some aluminum alloy filler to seal it up. That is still holding fine but it's on my mind to replace it at some point. But as long as its not leaking then I'm going to run it. Great input! The exhaust is highly prone to rotting out

@@rowlandrestorations I'm talking about on the manifold side, if you take the bolts off and pull the stinger off the collector, there is a cone inside. I have a video on my channel about it.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/l6CUdmqAba55rdE&ab_channel=TheStephenspann27@@rowlandrestorations

@@TheStephenspann27 I checked out your video (stx15f, 12f exhaust). The part where the exhaust rings (piston ring type things) seal against that stainless steel sleeve inside the waterbox…. Ya that was definitely all rotted out on mine. I probably should’ve used JB weld like you but I brazed in some aluminum to seal it. It’ll be something I probably replace in the future if I start noticing more water in the hull

Thanks! Good luck!

I appreciate that! Thank you!

Same used ones

Nope. Same one

Could have but didn’t. Didn’t even really need to replace any of the bearings but I replaced them with standard size ones anyway cuz I was in there

To expand on this, the crankshaft was not damaged in any way so I could just use standard bearings. I only needed to verify they were the correct standard size and not oversized like if you were to get the crankshaft machined down. Once you start getting away from factory sizes by machining surfaces, crankshaft, center bores, etc, then you'll need to be more careful about measuring. This kawasaki engine is well designed so you can get away with a lot which is one of the points I tried to show

Took longer than I expected haha. Thanks!

I hear that. You do get to enjoy it sooner if you go that route. I’ll be doing my best to get this finished within this year. Time will tell. Appreciate the support!

FMF Fatty pipe. www.motosport.com/fmf-fatty-pipe-2stroke?variant[FMF001X]=FMF001X-X001-Y085

I appreciate your input! That would be outside of my skillset unfortunately

@@rowlandrestorations it’s all a learning process man. I went to school for Welding and Fabrication and I’m still learning more I didn’t in school 5 years later lol

@@hillbillyfabshop1062 haha I hear that! I don’t intend to ever stop learning. There will always be things we don’t yet know

Thanks! Plastics : www.dcvmx.com Fuel tank : www.justgastanks.com

Thanks!

Very nice! The 73-74 chargers I think have the best side window profile, the ones without the louvers anyway lol. You can get aftermarket quarters at least. Best of luck!

Oof. I wish you best of luck. Sounds rough. Hopefully aftermarket panels start getting more support

@@rowlandrestorations I'll probably do the same, make a patch piece, over and over until I have structure again, next summer

@@rowlandrestorations there is a 1/43 diecast charger Rallye on eBay, I just got one today, blue with black decals. Not many around

Ya you gotta do what you gotta do. Good luck man!

Ya I tried my best but it still looked like crap. Lol. You are right. Once they’re yellow that’s it

@@rowlandrestorations watch for Vmx racing to be producing more and more tanks

That’s awesome! The pre-70s cudas don’t get enough love. Glad you’re taking the time to go through it and video it! Wish you the best of luck man!

Very nice! Both really nice cars! Disc brakes makes a world of difference for sure

Blue Goose!!! 👍🏽🏁