Close! Its b3 Blue Streak, which is pretty close to the Richard Petty blue

@@rowlandrestorations I thought something was different. Thought it might be because I almost always see it enamel.

@@JohnAvery-t2m I don't think I've seen this color on another car in person before so I hope it's close. I trusted my local paint shop to match it

You got a new subscriber. Excellent work.

@@JohnAvery-t2m I really appreciate that! I'll do my best to give it the new life it deserves!

MOPAR OR NO CAR!!!

Thank you! Still a ways to go but getting better bit by bit!

43 ft/lbs final on the bigger bolts, 14 ft/lbs on the smaller ones. Do it at least in 2 stages

@@rowlandrestorations Thanks, I am fixing my 2014 kawasaki ultra 310x , the engines looks the same , should be the same torque I think

@@vikp7885 They are very similar but with the boost yours has it has a slightly higher torque spec. Final torque is 52 ft/lbs

@@rowlandrestorations Ok, thanks for let me know

@@vikp7885 For sure. Good luck

Thanks!

@@ervinthompson6598 It is! And absolutely! It’s a great color

@@rowlandrestorations 👍

I will do that in the future! What torque values do you need?

@@FULLMETALCAR I will have a new video with updates very soon! Trying to finish up some work on it and get the editing done

@@rowlandrestorations dope

@@Fogie415 DC Plastics

@@rowlandrestorations Thank you

@@drewmac4046 compression test good? Could be they blocked the jet pump, overheated it and popped the head gasket. Although that won’t necessarily show on the compression test. That was what happened to this jet ski

@rowlandrestorations compression was good. Yeah I changed the oil. It cleared up so far ...

@@drewmac4046 Hull leaking? Could be getting water in from air box where the oil catch can connects to it. Give it some more ride time and keep checking the oil. Could have been a one time thing with water getting in it

@@marczhp1766 If you have a machine shop that will deck your cylinder head and deck your cylinder, absolutely! It’ll be the best way to get the best sealing surface between the two. But you can check it with a straight edge if you have one and see if they need it. Machine shop can check them for you too

@@rowlandrestorations thanks for the reply

I appreciate the kind words! Thank you!

Thank you! Glad I can help!

If the cooler is bad enough, yes. You can lose oil through the cooling system. Do you ride in salt water?

@@brokengaming4906 Runs amazing! I don’t ride it as much as my Yamaha but it runs flawlessly. Probably only put about 20-25 hours in it so far. I abuse it hard too

Glad to hear it! That sounds like it might be the hose coming off of the cylinder head. It is right under the intake manifold. I have the service manual linked in the description. Look on page 254 at the exploded view of the cooling system. Hopefully that will help you make sense of it. The 12F intake manifold is a little different but the cylinder heads are exactly the same

@@rowlandrestorations thanks. I’ll have a look at the manual. The hose seemed to come short of getting all the way under the intake manifold…

Looking at the manual I believe the head we purchased did not come with the head cooling pipe that it connects to and the core we sent back had it on it....

@@outdoorAllard Damn! That sucks. Well It could have been rotted out anyway so might as well get a new one. I ordered mine from Jetstar in Japan. I received it less than a week and was half the price of any US supplier. The only downside is shipping can be pricy, so weigh your options and see if you need to order anything else. The OEM parts from there are SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper jetskiparts.jp/products/32144-3709?_pos=1&_psq=KAWASAKI+OEM+PIPE+%7C+32144-3709&_ss=e&_v=1.0

@@Millennial1031 I haven’t gotten a great read yet. My best GPS run on it so far is 60.0mph but it was choppy and I know for certain my jet pump impeller clearance isn’t perfect. If you’re hitting 60, I would say that’s right on for a stock machine. You might be able to get more with a single water box and removing the air box. I would say enjoy it. You can do a compression test and see how those numbers look but I would say you’ve got a healthy ski

@@rowlandrestorations tried 3 different testers and I’m at about 120 which is low, but ski feels good.

@@Millennial1031 Hmm, I would say that is low. Are you testing it after running it so there's heat in it? Are you holding the throttle wide open when cranking? Those will drastically affect the numbers. If you're hitting 60 I would say that's pretty good. And even if the numbers are showing low, if they are all close to each other (<10% per cylinder) then don't mess with it

@@rowlandrestorationsI had a bad piston. I’m not sure how it ran the way it did, because soon as I pulled the head off there was a piece missing on the skirt and the compression ring was visible on #4. I installed 12f pistons to increase compression. 250 psi, running 93 + a can of VP octane boost to be safe and I’m hitting 62. I also installed a kspeed ride plate but it didn’t give me any extra speed

@@Millennial1031 THAT IS AWESOME! I didn't think the 12F pistons would have the clearance but that is good to know. I think I will try that on another build now... Did you modify the timing plate or do any tuning? Or is it just stock with the higher compression?

@@Millennial1031 Nice! Good luck. Once you get into it, it’s not too bad

Head bolts need at least 2 torque passes. First is 17 ft/lbs, then 43 ft/lbs final. Camshaft cap is about 9 ft/lbs or 104 in-lbs. Its on page 181 in the service manual. www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/e5rpmgbaw1ea9qcbq1fsw/STX-15F-service-manual.pdf?rlkey=2l0hf045bil73j4okmy6z0szd&e=1&dl=0

Awesome! I'm glad it helped!

Hahaha oh ya. That me.

Great video, i have a 12f 2006, almost same issue, i found water in my cylinders and water mix with oil.

@@douglasweeks7407 pretty much the same ski so you can try those things and see. I’d also suggest to check the exhaust manifold cuz that could be letting water back flow into the cylinders if it’s rotted out. I would start there before anything else and see what it looks like

Thanks! I reused them as well. After about 3 uses I would toss them but this was its first rebuild so I had no worries about using them

Awesome! Glad to hear of another one being saved! That should be a killer car with that stroker!

So the first thing is do a compression test and see if any cylinder is obviously low. Your oil cooler should be located under the exhaust. You can remove and inspect that and hopefully that is your issue. Some of the Yamaha 1800 are prone to cracked cylinder heads and that's not always easily shown by a compression test either. Only way to find out is to start checking the different components. Hope this helps and good luck!

Definitely! Better than it sitting in a field anyway lol. I appreciate the support!

Haha thanks! You do what you can with what ya got! Nice! Have fun!

Sorry to hear that! Hopefully it's just the oil cooler for you but let me know how it goes!

Thanks! You can install it either way. It doesn't matter. Good luck wrenching!

Thank you very much.

Bought the bike for $200 in 2020. Spent I think $150 on a piston kit. $360ish for plastics, probably another $100-200 in supplies in paint, $275 for exhaust. Also bought tires and I think they ran about $200. I think when I added it up it was about $1500ish

Not bad I picked one up yesterday for $200 but worse condition. Missing more stuff.

@@xips420 Nice! Good luck with the build! Some of the engine parts can be hard to find but hopefully you can find what you need!

Oh I definitely know what you mean! They had great styling!

I appreciate that! Thanks!

Seriously! Thanks man! I appreciate it!

It cool i just read one of your other comments 🙂

Yup! I would just say inspect them closely and make sure there is no visible taper to them. The costs add up quick when rebuilding, so I say reuse where you can!

No worries! It connects to the bottom of the catch can. It allows the oil vapors collected in the catch can to drain back down to the oil pan

@@rowlandrestorations i will have more stupid questions on my install thanks for responding

@@dproulx7380 No worries! Happy to help!

Great questions! So that extra hole you see in the exhaust ports is a passage to the Reed valves in the valve cover. It was Kawasaki's way of emissions control using secondary air injection in the exhaust. It has no bearing on performance or anything and the later cylinder heads (maybe 2008-newer) blocked those ports and removed the ports in the valve covers. Hope this answers your question!

Great question! If you know the crankshaft hasn't been ground / resized, then go with standard (STD) bearings. To be certain, you can measure the crankshaft journal diameter and compare it with the manual. Page 8-4 and 8-5. I attached a link to the manual if you need it. Hope this helps! www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/e5rpmgbaw1ea9qcbq1fsw/STX-15F-service-manual.pdf?rlkey=2l0hf045bil73j4okmy6z0szd&dl=0

Lol, sorry it wasn’t clear in the video, I did NOT replace them. It’s running fine. There a tools to measure the stretch of the bolts so it would be interesting to see how much some used ones are stretched over new ones. I really wasn’t worried about it. If you were to follow the factory’s recommendation on every single part, they’d have you throw out almost everything during rebuilds and the cost would be almost as much as an entire new ski

Search “rotor holder 57001-1544”. I bought a used one off eBay, but I think Partzilla might be able to get them. They most likely will order it from a Kawasaki dealer

The stinger where it goes into the waterbox definitely had a few holes. I didn't film that part but I did braze in some aluminum alloy filler to seal it up. That is still holding fine but it's on my mind to replace it at some point. But as long as its not leaking then I'm going to run it. Great input! The exhaust is highly prone to rotting out

@@rowlandrestorations I'm talking about on the manifold side, if you take the bolts off and pull the stinger off the collector, there is a cone inside. I have a video on my channel about it.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/l6CUdmqAba55rdE&ab_channel=TheStephenspann27@@rowlandrestorations

@@TheStephenspann27 I checked out your video (stx15f, 12f exhaust). The part where the exhaust rings (piston ring type things) seal against that stainless steel sleeve inside the waterbox…. Ya that was definitely all rotted out on mine. I probably should’ve used JB weld like you but I brazed in some aluminum to seal it. It’ll be something I probably replace in the future if I start noticing more water in the hull

Thanks! Good luck!

I appreciate that! Thank you!

Same used ones