Thank u papa 3 years later❤

Unfortunately I purchased a brand X quality assist and the ball,mount on the tailgate broke off. E Z outs did not work. I'm sending it back but I have a stuck insert.

What’s the torque specs for the pan bolts? Thanks

I believe the fluid needs to be at some temperature before draining. Isn’t?

Thanks for the video bro. I’m about to change my bulbs out on my 4th gen Altima!

No music

What size speakers go in an 2011 ford

You think I can ruin the transmission if I only put 2 Quarts at first instead of 2 & 5/8?? Or do I even have to do that step ?

Thank you! Why is it necessary to disconnect the battery? Greets from Mexico 🇲🇽

Thank you! It is time to do this on my Altima and this video will help tremendously.

I still have some water in my radiator. Can I add coolant to it?

Thanks for the video. I found myself needing to replace the driver-side cv axle as described in your video. At 75,000 miles, the front bearing hubs were groaning. I took them out to find they were shot. Passenger side replacement went flawlessly. The axle nut on the driver side was so tight, I had to use a 1/2" impact to get the axle nut off. It was obviously much tighter than the mere 20 ft. lbs that is the required torque. Replaced the hub, went to torque the axle nut to 20 ft lbs., the threaded end of the cv axle twisted off shortly after seating the axle nut. I think the end was weakened with the initial installation and over-torquing of the axle nut. Fords: sometimes a diamond, sometimes a stone... thanks for the video.

Just letting everyone know theres a huge difference between 4wd and 2wd.

A few tips, and to explain the proper way to assemble & populate the new connector: 1. Prepping the new connector housings. When you are removing the three new wires from the new connector housing, you do not need to remove the back panel (grid) & blue seal (mat seal) at all. Simply pop up (and remove) the white front piece (TPA), then pull the three wires completely through the front. 2. After this is complete, put the white front piece (TPA) back into the connector, but only insert it until it clicks one time. This is the first stage position. Do not push it more (second click) or you will not be able to proceed to step 3 below. 3. Re-assembly of vehicle wire & terminal into the new connector housing. After completing step 1 above, and removing the existing vehicle wires & terminals from the old connector housing, you are ready to populate the new connector housing with your existing wires & terminals. Simply push the terminals into the back of the connector housing (they are polarized and will only enter one way) into their correct circuit holes. When you hear and feel a click, they are in the correct location. 4. When both wires are in, then you push the white front piece (TPA) into its second and final position. You are complete with that connector. It is important to have the TPA in its correct (first stage) position when you populate the connector because it guides the terminals correctly and prevents misorientation. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the great video!! FYI...AZ (at least the one where I live) no longer carries 3157NA; only 4157NA. But 4157NA fits perfectly.

Curious if you had around 314K miles when starter went bad? Thx for a great video.

Thanks for your video bro. Just changed mine and my acceleration feels way more responsive

Shit thank you str8 to the point

? Can i ask u something?

Forgot to address the backup light bulb.

Dude talked so damn much its hard to follow.. Should video ENTIRE procedure as it happened

Do you need to remove the fender liner to access the cooler?

Thank you for your time and posting!

Thank you brother!!!

Thanks got it on the second try on a 2015 frontier

Just bought a cheap bleeding kit and it only has one hose and adapter ? Can I bleed one side at a time covering one ? Or should I had not cheaper out ?

Thank you for recording and posting this valuable educational video. Sincerely.

Just AMSOIL cvt fluid ❤

Great video $

You already replaced the oring

My altima idle 1000 on park is that normal , And I have po172 check light does that fix it ?

This Carquest creates new problems for me. It causes noise in CKP sensor and the car will have intermittent long crank. EVEN it spins strong! Many other guys in Honda forums had the same issue with aftermarket staters too. Mitsuba or good Mitsuba remans are your only options.

Oh yeah I just jarred my life with a slip on the upper ca

Hi. Will the P0101 code go away by itself after cleaning?

Somebody told me when doing a coolant flush you have to remove the coolant the flush it with water and drive the car before adding the new coolant Is that true

It's a pain without removing the heat shield. This method works best. Thank you for sharing!🙏

This is huge! Thank you. I got the jumper from amazon for 20 bucks. Comes with the plastic tool to remove the console. I know Its half the price on GM website but it will be at my door in 2 days.

Did you replace the coil packs ? Or just cleaned them ?

FYI, you should always use OEM transmission fluid and any car.. the aftermarket fluid will shorten the life of your transmission that’s my experience over 15 years🙄

Well Explained video!! Question, where can I buy the O ring? I need it

2010 is the same bro

Mi padre acaba de comprar un Nissan Altima 2012 y no encontrabamos forma de sacar este tapón para medir el aceite de transmisión. Este vídeo nos ayudo demasiado, muchas gracias

Appreciate the video. I have a gen 2 same issue. I didn’t have to remove the throttle body. I did heat it up slightly with a lighter (slowly and carefully)

Do you add the transmission fluid when the car ramp is underneath the car, or do you move off the car ramp and than add the fluid?

does the new axel get flus with the axel ?

Do maximas need this done also

I'd just like to reiterate another comment or two. I checked out my MAF sensor and air filter today. The sensor looked very clean but the filter was pretty dusty. I think all the sand from the icy roads made it worse. After kind of shaking out and vacuuming the filter I cleared the code and it's still gone for now. This seems to make sense 1) check sensor and air filter 2) If still code, change air filter 3) If still code, change the sensor instead of cleaning it....I found some sensors that are only 15-20 dollars. So you can clean the old one for about a 10 dollar can or put in a new one for 15. If you buy the cleaner you might end up with the cleaner taking up space on a shelf for the next 10 years until you need it again, or you throw it away and waste most of it.

I'd been running castrol transmax atf/cvt universal for 60,000+ miles in my 2019 civic coupe ex-t. About 10,000 miles ago I decided to do several drain and fills to go back to oem honda hcf-2. Well...I can honestly say I wish I hadn't. My cars fine, transmission is fine. However, the castrol was WAY better. Especially in winter. It also felt like the car had more torque with castrol, and an overall smoother drive. So tomorrow morning I will be starting my 3x drain and fill going BACK to castrol. For whatever reason my cvt loves it. Not sure why, but its way better than the oem stuff. In my findings anyway.

Spend the extra money and buy Aimsoil ATF blue.

This procedure doesn't apply to 2011 models,I replace mine without remove the bumper