Hi. You watch the image build up on the screen as more and more exposures are stacked on top of each other to increase the signal and reduce the noise. The longer you wait/more images you stack, the better the final image. You can then view and share the final image, or process the RAW files if you want to take the image further. This short video will help illustrate what I mean: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKW8kHafrduegtU

@@Astrolavista Thanks for the info.

I know right! Crazy good for something the size of a brick. Cheers ziggy!

Thank you mate! :)

Cheers Ron :)

I can't take full credit, Suno AI does a lot of the heavy lifting :)

Thanks Tich, it makes me smile too, which is needed with the cloudy damp days and nights we're getting at the moment.

Hey Tony, thank you mate! Yes it's a platform called Suno AI. As you likely well know by now as a regular on the channel, I do like to mix things up and experiment with different styles of video; gives people a break from me chin wagging lol :D I appreciate you Tony, cheers!

Hey there! Yeah for sure :) I've not got to testing this myself yet! BUT there is a video somewhere on YT covering timelapses. You can do both daytime and astro timelapses E.g the Sunset, the Milky Way etc.

@Astrolavista Great, thanks very much for prompt response 👍

Hi. I'm glad you found it helpful (though, the first use under the stars could have gone a bit smoother, haha!). Regarding the solar system, I managed to live stack 20-30 shots of the Moon, and the result was a beautifully sharp image I was really pleased with. I’m planning to capture the planets soon and put together a solar system video with the Dwarf 3. They will look tiny, but even so, it would be good to show people so they know what to expect.Cheers!

@@potteryjoe yes, the Gain works in the same way as ISO. I've found that dropping it down to 60 may be best

Sorry to hear that Chris. From feedback it seems to be a 50/50 ish chance

Thank you Stephan. I think the Vespera 2 makes for an excellent middle ground but honestly I doubt you would be disappointed with either the Seestar s50 or the Dwarf 3 (bearing in mind the Dwarfs long lead time for stock). The Dwarf 3 is what I'm testing currently and it's blown me away with the deep sky imaging results, because you can easily put it in equatorial mode for longer exposures without causing field rotation on your images (I have a few videos on that one so far!) The Vespera's feel a little more premium; their app is well polished, and the hardware nicely finished. The s50 feels budget by comparison but absolutely incredible value for money. ZWO have made some improvements in build quality with their latest entry level s30. The Dwarf 3 feels good quality. It's hard to place it, perhaps not too far behind the Vespera's. As you mention, the Vespera's do cost considerably more! Partly because it's built in France not China, and partly because of the higher speced optics and sensors. The Vespera II has an 8.3mp Sony IMX585mc. I have this sensor in my stand along astro cam and it's a beast! I use it for all types of imaging and it's frankly impressive. The Pro version does provide better resolution 12.5MP (IMX 676 sensor) However, I believe the Vespera II provides the wider native field of view, AND you can achieve the same wider field of view with either version using the Panorama mode. The extra money of the Pro version does get you a hard case, built-in hygrometer for dew control, anti-theft system, and extended battery life of up to 11 hours, but it's quite a big jump in cost. If the Dwarf 3 was easy to get hold of, I would say get that for the cost, reasonably good build, and the amazing deep sky results for it's size owing to the Equatorial mode. However, if I had little more to spend and wanted something readily available, a little more premium, and amazing images for the more simple to setup AZ mode, then I would be seriously looking at the Vespera II. I hope that hasn't confused you further It's one of the questions you could potentially write an essay on, so it's hard to keep things concise and non confusing.

Hi Jose, it sort of does. There is an option in the App to boost the CPU which creates more internal heat to keep the lenses clear. Even though I live in a damp country , I haven't needed to do this so far. I've been out with the Dwarf 3 on four separate nights with no signs of dew.

​@@Astrolavistagracias!

That 10" Meade will be a beast for capturing the planets, so you're in for a treat :) I'm using SharpCap purely for image capture, watching the screen to try get the focus as good as possible whilst adjusting the focuser on the telescope itself. Most cameras are compatible with SharpCap, but if that doesn't work you can try a similar software called FireCapture. Enjoy that big scope!

I think it's mainly down to the cost of the energy rejection filter large enough for a Dobsonian. They start at around 1,300 for a 6" ERF, then you've got the cost of the Quark which is 1,250 ish, so we're talking 2,500 ish for a 6" Dob with Quark and the ERF required to stop the scope from melting. The cost goes up quickly, an ERF for an 8" is around 2.4k so 3.6k all in. The new Acuter Pheonix provides great Ha views for 1,000, so I would probably lean people that way even though it's not the prettiest of scope: www.firstlightoptics.com/telescopes-in-stock/acuter-elite-phoenix-40-h-alpha-solar-telescope/ref/astrolavista/ ERFs for reference - www.firstlightoptics.com/solar-filters/antlia-solar-discover-dualband-erf-200mm/ref/astrolavista/

You can connect a dedicated astro camera to the telescope, then to a laptop via USB to capture the Moon and planets., but you can't directly connect a laptop to the telescope as it's purely optical and mechanical with no electronics.

Luke! you’re too kind, my friend! 😊 Thank you so much! I’m absolutely hooked on this thing. I’ve been taking it out every clear night! LOL

Thank you so much, that's really generous! Cheers!

@@JeffStevens-y4n You're welcome 😊

Thanks Cameron :)

Hehe! Crooner classes Tim 🎵🎶😗

Hi Tich, yeah mate, I'm all aboard the AI train :D Take care fella

@@Astrolavista What AI do you use for the Singing?

NM I read your description

Hi. You first align the planet in the eyepiece, as it can be difficult to locate it on the small camera sensor otherwise. Once centred, you switch to the camera and adjust the focus while observing the planet on your computer screen. Since eyepieces and cameras have different focusing requirements, you cannot simply focus using the eyepiece and then swap to the camera; refocusing is necessary. I hope that helps clear things up.

@Astrolavista Thanks for the help.

Here you go, Steve, make sure to select the Fuji FX option: www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/t-rings/ref/asrolavista/ Cheers

Hello, thank you for your comment. It's a first impressions video, so just one of many videos about the Dwarf 3. Yes indeed, I could have found enough clear nights given enough time to practice so everything appears to go smoothly. Alternatively, I could have edited the video to make it look like a breeze. However, to me this feels dishonest, and not representative of how things are when you are standing outside in the dark with a new device. I've been using the earlier app with the Dwarf 2 for a couple of years so the new atlas and EQ setup wizard were sticking points, I'm sorry if this wasn't to your liking. The Atlas not responding was resolved on the next night by re installing the app; I was basically selecting the correct button but it didn't respond for some time, then randomly did out of the blue! I didn't like the wording of the EQ wizard, and I left that in the video to get that point across. Anyway, I suppose I'd better get dinner ready for my three kids as they are looking at me expectantly lol Catch you later, cheers!