Yes it is.

Indeed. In this instance I was more concerned with removing a blockage on the fly. Get the motor running without removing the carb to get someone home.

Glad you liked it. I'm trying to get to 1000 subs. It'd really help me out if you could hit the sub button. Thanks.

Fuck you I did this and I ducky my scros

Technically yes. I've not had great success with cold galv sprays adhering but it is going to do it any harm

Well done.

Yes.it lasted the entire time I had it

I eventually sold the boat. It got better and better over time which is usually the opposite of boat bits. I think the lube continued to soften old grease.

@@acgolem thanks for the reply mate.

What things did I use that no-one has? Considering most people found this helpful I'd assume people have a basic drill, a spanner and can find a piece of scrap metal 🤷‍♂️

😂 beat me to it

​@@acgolemnot I. All we got is wood 😢

I'm not sure I understand. You were going to replace your stator anyway and you somehow broke it while removing the flywheel? What was wrong with the stator? Was the battery not charging. My problem turned out to be the gap for the trigger sensor on the outside of the flywheel so I didn't need to remove the flywheel anyway.

If you're going with an acrylic top coat you could probably skip the etch primer. If you were using an enamel or epoxy enamel top coat then you'd want to etch primer first as the enamel will react with the zinc. I've done my boat trailer with zinc and then acrylic. I'll admit it doesn't look as nice as an enamel but it has far superior weather resistance and if I need to touch it up in the future I can just wash it and slap some more paint over it.

⁠​⁠@@acgolemso I can just use the Zinc coating essentially for any of the rust spots and scratches and then just paint using acrylic spray?

Acrylic water based, yes. You can spray it if you have a sprayer. Acrylic spray cans, no. At least every one that I've seen has said they're not suitable over galvanized or zinc coatings.

@@acgolem so what’s the proper way I should go about this then, using spray paint cans. Or I could get some liquid if needed.

There are multiple methods that will work just as well as each other. All with some benefits and some negatives. On my boat trailer I used cold galv primer on any bare metal where I had ground away rust. I then top coated the whole thing with a water based top coat. I brushed it. Its held up well 2 years running so far. The benefits of this are UV resistance and water based can be recoated without major prep. No sanding or undercoating required. Just wash and slap another coat on in a few years. www.bunnings.co.nz/white-knight-rust-guard-500ml-white-satin-quick-dry-advanced-enamel-paint_p1560446 If you look too closely it's not the best finish as water based is thick and dries quickly. Has brush marks etc. The benefit of brushing is there was no overspray in my garage. Spray cans do give a nicer finish. They should last fine. If you go the spray can method I'd use cold galv on the bare metal. Etch primer over the cold galv then topcoat the whole trailer. You could even use a silver galv. It's a galv paint and a top coat all in one. Instead of using 3 different cans you just do a couple coats with the one. I've heard mixed reviews on these. Some people swear by it and some don't. The rust protection ratings aren't as high as cold galv but it's still 60 where cold galv is 72. I will try some of these products in the near future. www.bunnings.co.nz/crc-400ml-bright-zinc-rust-protection_p0049610

Yes. It should be over coated tho. It is usually a Flat finish and doesn't have great weather resistance. It either has to be over coated with an acrylic (water based) paint or you need to use an etch primer before using other top coats such as epoxies or enamels.

@@acgolem Thank U.

Good luck. If it works for you please help me out by hitting subscribe. Thanks

Yea mate. A lot of force on that. Even with a wrench you need it locked to something solid. I've seen people lock it in to a bolt and bend the bolt. Why do you need to remove the flywheel? My fix turned out to be trigger gap which was the sensor outside of the flywheel. There's not much under there.

@@acgolem I bought a impact driver and took it off like butter. People should buy one if they are going to own a scooter. I had to replace my stator. Successful install by the way.

Sorry just saw your post below, your fellow kiwi;-)

Yea sorry. Kiwi. But ask away for advice. I have a stupid amount of painting experience in all but automotive. Could probably bluff my way through automotive tho 😬

You're a special tool.

@@acgolem thanks bud. I do like the vid though. I just don't have a press to make one.

@@matthejl8 haha sorry, just having a laugh. Yes it is a special tool but you don't have to buy it. That description is a bit too long for a video title. There is a special tool that can be bought for this job. This method bypasses the need to buy 'that' special tool. I made mine with a hand drill not a drill press.

@@acgolem What was the thickness of the metal you used?

4m. Actually it may have been 5 or even 6mm. Sorry was ages ago now but when you asked, 4mm came straight to mind so I'm fairly sure that's what I used.