@@Doityourselfwithjoe I’m using a 20 watt xTool. It worked great for cutting the masking and I didn’t have any sticking issues with the SECOND side. I really think that that the stickiness on the first side was a combination of two things: an interaction between the clear lacquer and/or my impatience in not letting the clear lacquer cure long enough. I just did another sign yesterday using the laser cut masking method and it turned out great.

@@gisall8205 Good idea, and I was going to take you up on it, but I’ve already deleted the source video. I did this one on my iPad and needed to free up space, dang it. I’ll do it with the next one and test out your theory.

@@gisall8205 On the other hand, music doesn’t seem to hurt John Woodfield’s subscriber rate. Then again, I’m no John Woodfield. 😅

@@bobjosjor8307 Sorry if I sound like an Old Fuddy Duddy. I guess I am an old Fuddy Duddy. Been flying RC for around 40 years now. You're doing just fine with your videos . Peace.

You guys do a great job with both your videos and your business. Very satisfied with both so I wanted to share the word. Be well!

@@maximee The more I fly it, the more I love it. I don’t utilize its speed demon qualities hardly at all as that isn’t really my style (or skill!) of flying, but I do love it on the slope when there is a good wind. Thanks for watching!

The good thing about the Conscendo and it's UMX twin is that they cover so many styles. My UMX conscendo is super agile on 4S but can also hang on a thermal or slope soar. Dang, now I want to go fly :) All the best!

@@maximee The UMX version is on my wish list. I think it's size and ease of assembly would pair well with my other hobby of cycling.

@@bobjosjor8307 Agreed, I hadmine with me on a surf trip, easy to disassemble. Just keep in mind it's rather delicate, especially the elevator and winglets are super thin and fragile. I have made foam blocks so I can cover those areas, but still not a plane I would carry in a backpack. If you get the UMX, I can highly recommend going for 4S 350mAh.

@@maximee Thanks for the tips. We'll see if Santa is nice to me this year. :-)

@@basantidevi2305 Correct, but being a puzzle that will, in all probability, be put together and then put back in its box, I believe the color will likely last for many, many years.

@@truthunfiltered314 I could be wrong, but I think Sharpie ink might be alcohol based so the two are pretty similar. I do think the alcohol inks give you a larger color pallet plus the ability to mix your own colors. Have fun with it!

I haven't done any tile yet, but maybe try using powder coat paint and melt with a heat gun. Do not use your laser because it can harm the laser long term.

@@LarryDMitchellI do on the samples I give to businesses, but on the ones that are ordered, I don’t. I just don’t think it looks great to have a company logo on a personalized ornament. I do, however, put my card in the packaging. Packaging is something I should have put at the end of this video. I package the ornaments in self sealing bags and I put a card in the bag. These are the bags I use: a.co/d/4yo5Kl2

@@CarrieBishop-w4o For most of my work, I stain before cutting. It’s just easier to stain a 12” x 12” sheet than it is a bunch of 4” ornaments. I also find that smoke stains don’t generally stick to wood that’s been stained, meaning I have less finish work to do after the piece is cut. A word of caution, however: I have noticed that some stains will affect the engraving quality. You’ll want to do some testing. The stain used in this video is Minwax Ipswich Pine and it seems to engrave just fine.

@@AB_thingsDFW I’m not at my computer, but I believe what you are referring to is under Laser Tools and is Fast White Space Scan. You can set it at a higher number so the in-between moves are faster than the engraving. A couple notes on that: Firstly, the speed is limited by the speed of your laser. Secondly, depending on the quality of your laser and its accuracy in movement, dramatic changes in speed can cause your engraving or lines to not quite match up perfectly.

@bobjosjor8307 yes sir. You're absolutely right. I have longer B1 30w. It reacts pretty good. Thank you for the info. I'm going to check your other vids 👍

@@thomasnadeau5076 as I recall, it was off a free file site or one of the many Facebook groups I belong to. Sorry I’m not more help.

Thanks! I wish my hands didn't get quite so cold. I would have loved to spend a couple more hours at the slope yesterday. It's not often that the wind, direction, and spare time line up together!

I didn't mention it in the video, but I've also found that sometimes offset seems a little sharper on birch ply as well. Have fun and go create!

These are Jacquard Piñata alcohol inks. You can get them on Amazon and most good art supply stores.

@@bobjosjor8307 Thank you

I moved on to a different design many years ago and about three years ago I finally got to build a new shop with good insulation and don't use a pellet heater anymore. Sorry I'm not more help.

@@sherryleggett1612 I can’t remember where I found the original, but I believe it was off either thingiverse or instructables. Search “tessellation” or “tessellated” on either of those two sites.

@@bobjosjor8307 thank you. I would never have thought of the correct word to search for but it is obvious now that I know. I can’t wait to see what other pictures it comes up with.

@@bobjosjor8307 Thanks. I found it on Thingverse

@@stevebryson5464 I would say “probably.” :-) I haven’t ever tried it myself, but I would think it would work just fine. Do a little test piece before you commit.

@@h4z4rd42 You’re welcome! I do a couple other Escher inspired puzzles, but this is the best seller.

@@bobjosjor8307 love it!

@@LarryDMitchell If you are asking if I did a kerf offset, I did not. In the file it is just set as a line. I have an xTool D1 Pro 20 watt and cut this 3mm birch ply at 6mm/s with air assist turned on. It leaves a little wiggle room in the puzzle, but it also makes it easier to fit the pieces together and take them apart without having any delamination of the birch ply.

@@bobjosjor8307 Thanks. I have the MK2 10/30W and I'll find my file and just try it out. I love the color and the way it pops. Great idea.

@@LMMartsStudio Thank you! Thanks for tuning in. I love when an experiment actually works. :-)

@@brandycooper5625 I hope it was useful. The more I use these inks, the more I like them!

@@bobjosjor8307 I’m going to give this a try with my Tim holtz alcohol inks

This is a technique for tile. I do use alcohol ink to stain wood, if that is what you are referring to. I could make a video of that, if you’d like.

@@bobjosjor8307 I apologize, yes I meant about the wood. You mentioned it near the end of your video. That would be cool to see..

@@noelv1976 I'll put something up in the next few days for you.

I finally got around to putting something up about using alcohol inks as a wood stain. Full demonstration: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWSnoXiKmqdqeKcsi=dHu_ok9sQj2ZcJzK

@@phaedruscj3330 See? I’m right. You invested in people: your grandkids. That’s awesome!

It would! Unfortunately, my laser bed isn't large enough to fit the base into. The area of my laser is about 16" square and the base of the sign is 32" in diameter. I do use that same technique on smaller signs. Generally, I will use the offset tool in lightburn to make the score guideline just barely smaller than the piece I'm going to glue on, ensuring that the score line will be covered by the piece I'm gluing on, if that makes sense.

This comment made me go out and inspect a couple of the trivets I have in the kitchen and no, I haven't experienced any cracks in the glaze. I wonder if it's a difference in the tile manufacturers? The ones I'm using are the common ones at Menards that they sell by the piece.

The keel is the size of the original plans found on rcgroups in the foamies section, as is the servo location. I’ve found “prop-in-slot” designs to generally be noisier than most other designs. It’s not necessarily a function of the prop type, but the air disturbances caused by the slot. Really common, just as pusher-prop designs are louder than puller-prop designs. Here is the original thread on rcgroups: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1685988-SUPER-EASY-great-flying-foamy It isn’t a design that is made for super high performance. It’s just a good, stable flyer that is simple to build and a lot of fun to fly. This is the second one I’ve built and I’ve found that it’s a great one to get up in the air, get some good altitude, and then hand the controls to a beginner. Go check out the thread.

It’s an xTool D1 20 watt diode laser.

You're welcome! I hope something in there will be useful for you.

I'll have to give it a try. Thanks!

For a trivet, a clear coat or epoxy may have an issue with the heat.

Thanks! These particular friends are heart siblings to me.

HA! I hadn't thought about Ted Turner colorizing for a long time now! I'm glad that craze passed fairly quickly!!

It was fairly light for the ballast I had in, but it would gust occasionally. I would say 8mph with gusts to 14 or so. That's a pretty shallow and short little hill and far from ideal, but my friends that live in the house right there wanted to see how a slope soarer works so I obliged ...... within the limit of my abilities. 🙂

That's one of the nice things about experimenting with tile projects: The tile is cheap. :-) I think these larger ones were about a buck each.

I’m going to have to admit that I don’t have answers for these questions. I’ve treated them like I do Norton White Tile method tiles…… that is, I’ve not done any sealer. They haven’t faded any, at least not yet. I suppose they would fade or bleed if exposed to alcohol as they are alcohol based inks. I do know that the alcohol inks are pretty resilient. The few times I’ve gotten some on my skin, it takes a LOT of scrubbing to get it off, even if I do use alcohol to scrub with.

I can tell you from using epoxy resin that alcohol inks are not light-fast and do fade quickly under sunlight. You will need to find light-fast inks to prevent fading. You most likely will want to seal the engraving afterwards for long term durability.