With water and an old toothbrush.

1 - Slightly, Yes. But it's not very noticeable. 2 - 100% clear silicone. 3 - To be honest not very well, partially due to me not knowing exactly what I was doing. I think I ended up taking the mirror apart twice because the first time I didn't tighten the bolt enough/I think I had grease in it. If I did it again I would not soak the mirror very long, and get it right the first time. Also I would not try to make it adjustable. It's a lot easier to have it fixed in one place. Just tighten it down all the way. Side note: the ball on my mirror, kind of wasn't round any more due to rust. So trying to adjust it was unsmart.

@@TheRandomVidsChannel Thanks for taking the time to reply. I'm gonna try and get them fixed this weekend, hopefully I don't mess them up even more. 😅

@Bensux You got it. Hope it works.

Thank you. You learn something new every day.

There were squeeze tabs on the model I fixed. But some have different attachment styles.

Thank you, means a lot.

Thank you for sharing. That's awesome!

🤔

@@TheRandomVidsChannel 1:36, maybe it's a camera trick?

Yeah, because of the frame rate it looks like the blade is rotating the wrong direction 😀

Thanks for the sign of moral support!! :-) Couple of quick notes/edits from my atrociously spelled comment. I guess YT doesn't enable spell check .. Additional info: that clear plastic protector cover holds a plastic extender.. the switch knob that sticks outside the chassis that you pull along back and forth.. that actually is connected directly to this extender and the extender is attached to the actual mechanical / electric contact switch (that needs cleaning) which is mounted to the CB and is offset forward (to the mixer unit) about an inch or so - the distance of that extender. Correction: it's the outer clear plastic holder - that the external pull metal knob thingy sticks out, that is screwed into the main circuit board.. not the mechanical slide switch.. as noted it's mounted on the CB with appropriate soldered connections about an inch forward and is directly below the electric motor but before the head gear mechanism that is held by those T15 star screws. Here's the thing.. I REALLY REALLY do NOT want to open up the motor and it's gear mechanism. IMO, it's literally worse than opening a can of worms . So.. I have used a keyboard dust/dirt spray can with a thin plastic straw and have used it to physically stick into the mechanical switch and blew that switch up down and side ways.. also was able to move the switch and blow on the mechanical 0 1 2 settings Will let it dry out / cool off overnight and try it when I am more awake! Will keep you updated.. Thanks again!! 🙌

As Professor Farnsworth says Good news everybody !! That can of keyboard cleaner spray, with the thin straw nozzle aimed inside the mounted switch and moved back and forth and repeated.. WORKED! No need to mess with anything else! I think this change from your model is actually better. Just remove the top and aim it on that switch! When I sprayed the cleaner on the switch it looked like flour dusted thr circuit board.. I sprayed more and left overnight. This AM, I put back in all the interior screws (I needlessly removed!) and tightened them and turned the ole 8QT (after plugging in 😂) That slide switch works EXCELLENT now.. and I have extra cans of keyboard cleaner spray ready... for the next cleaning.. maybe in another 5 yrs 😅 Whoo hoo and thanks 🎉

Great to hear!

Nice.

😄

I have a link in the description that shows it better. Also some of them have slightly different wheel attachments.

@@TheRandomVidsChannel turns out mine seems to screw on instead of snap on.

Thank you. Good to know.

There should be a part number on the old motor. If there isn't any, than you can just look up the machine model followed by "motor".

Ouch!

Nice!

Good idea

There's probably hair wrapped around the wheel where it's connected to the vacuum.