Which controller are you looking for?

@@IndoorReef Hi, shown at 7:54 to dimm the leds and set a few points over the day.

Wow, nice! You’re obviously doing something right! Good luck and have fun!

🤣

Yes, absolutely and everything is doing very well. I would like to make another video soon just not got around to it yet. I'll try to do an update soon.

I can understand that. It's pretty disheartening and concerning when something like this happens. Did your fix hold in the long term? I used putty to try and plug the gap while I waited for the replacement sump. I noticed it seemed to be stopping the rain water leaking from the sump while it was sat in the garden waiting for disposal so I guess it did a decent job. Maybe I could have managed with a DIY repair but I didn't want to risk it for the damage it could cause to the house and my pets.

can you explain more what you used and how you did it

Nope, this one is G1.

I'm not sure how they will both react when they touch but if its a big tank make sure you can reach them to manage it if you don't want it everywhere. Once it gets bigger bits will break off and grow where ever it lands. It can get out of hand quickly.

Thanks. I hear many different opinions on various companies but in my case Red Sea did good. Would make me more likely to buy from them again, and possibly take the extended warranty offered on the G2 tanks.

Thanks, glad it was helpful. I'll watch out for how you get on, on your other thread! Good luck!

Oooff, not that high thankfully! I don't think my tank would do so well this high although I know some have good success.

@@IndoorReef just trying 😉 anyway, nice tank!

Thanks, really appreciated you commenting! 👍

Oooh, a drop off, nice! This is a good question and I'll be honest, I don't know the answer. A PAR of 60 sounds on the low side but xenia might still be alright. What's your PAR higher up? Might be better to increase things a bit if you have some head room higher up.

@IndoorReef 85-120 Top Liverock 70-105 mid Liverock 86-116 Bottom Liverock 58-111 Sand before the drop off 45-60 bottom drop off Coral Green Polyp Toadstool Hammer Frogspawn Hollywood Chalice (1Micromussa "super sensitive" ) 😔 Green Start Polyps Zoas The Toadstool gets fried pretty quickly also the Micromussa

I think you could probably go a little higher, but you know your tank best so do what you're comfortable with. If you do go higher, maybe very slow (I do it over months), letting it settle in between changes to properly see effects. I'm assuming you already have the lights and would just need to turn them up, not invest in new ones. I wouldn't worry about the PAR at the top if there are no corals there, just focus on getting the PAR where your corals are (your liverock measurement I assume?).

Let me know how you get on and hopefully some other people will share their thoughts here too, to give you some more opinions. If you haven't seen my recent PAR measurement video, might mbe interesting for you.

@IndoorReef that's my par levels.. These Xenias were new to my tank.I added them to my tank then about 3 days later I put Reef Roids in my tank for the first time but I added the recommended dose..The next day the Xenias stopped Pulsing and started declining..they went from pink to purple and white.I place 1 frag in a 1 gallon Pico tank that I also have ,once they were sick...that frag got healthy pretty quick it's pretty close to the light fixture in the pico . Its at like 130 par..I didn't think that frag was gonna make it I just placed it there to see what would happen ..well that frag is pulsing already and is pink,i noticed it today..I had also added reef roids to that Pico tank the same day i added some to my 12 gallon drop off tank...so my thoughts are that it's my light,needs to be brighter at the drop off.The bottom of the drop off is 24 inches from my light...I'm gonna bump up the light ...my light is capable of creating about 700 par at surface so the light creates enough par to grow coral....I think I'll just slowly brighten the drop off a bit...I'm gonna rent a par meter for 30 bucks at my local fish shop in the morning..I'll update you how they are doing ...maybe this thread will help someone els out also if mine make it lol.

Hi. It got it from IKEA but removed the flimsy back panel and made a custom wooden board to mount middle of the frame (rather than the back) so I can mount on both sides. I fixed the board with magents but almost never remove so doing it again I'd just fix it in position with screws. A quick hint, I originally wanted to add doors but it would be front heavy and fall forward when open so unless you want to fasten it to a wall or something (I didn't) then don't bother with the doors. If you can't find the IKEA cabinet, quite sure you could make a frame fairly easily.

​@@IndoorReef Can you still buy this cabinet you used from IKEA? That's a quality control board IMO. I'd like to do something similar thanks in advance.

⁠​⁠@@paddymac9280Thanks. I wouldn’t make the back removable with magnets if doing it again, I’d just fix it in place. I’m not sure if they still do it. They have one called besta which looks like the one I got but I can’t remember if it was the same one or if they changed it since. You don’t get a solid backboard so you’d need to sort that yourself. Good luck!

Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it!

Hey. I bought it from a company called Aqua print in the UK. They have a range of 3D printed products for the reefing hobby. The holder makes life so much easier compared to trying to hold it by hand. aquaprint.uk/index.php/product/seneye-adjustable-clamp/

Could be. I guess I'd only know for sure if I tried a second PAR meter of a different type. For that amount of lighting it could also be a genuine reading though. Remember, that's just the peak, it's lower at other times of the day. Whatever it seems to be working anyhow.

Thanks! I bought it from a company called Aqua print in the UK. They have a range of 3D printed products for the reefing hobby. The holder makes life so much easier compared to trying to hold it by hand. aquaprint.uk/index.php/product/seneye-adjustable-clamp/

Hi Kris, I use AI Saxby settings. Of course you need to adjust the intensity to suit your tank. The light bars come on at 10:30 and go off at 18:30.

Thanks for the hint! The thing is I'd need so much of it, I'd likely need to dose more than my evaporation which could get messy. I'd also need another big container. I have actually switched dosing, but not to kalk. I'll explain in a video very soon.

Very well put, sir! Couldnt agree more, you put it so well! Congrats on 22 years in the hobby too, very impressive! 👍

The light mounts were custom made by a local engineering business for me. I added the bits to hold the LED strips afterwards myself. If you're in the UK and serious about buying one, drop me a direct message (Instagram probably best) and I can check if the guy is taking on any jobs and put you in touch if he is.

@@IndoorReef thats nice 👍 I have to find one here in the US that could make it. The mount looks great

Thanks, man. Yeah, I hope it helps at least some folks who are starting out! I've learnt so much from people on KZbin, I feel it's important to pass some of that along.

Thanks! 🙂

I'd say like you said definately go as big as you can afford, because the amount of money you lose in selling your fairly new tank,' Know for sure,When I total it up it was around £ 700 +

Hey Vince, do you know which type of brown algae you've got (eg diatoms or dinoflagettes)? There's a lot of debate over what helps for brown algae. In my opinion, the stuff I've shared still applies but if you know which you've got I can share a few more specific thoughts.

Hey, sorry to hear that. I'll put a video up on this in the next few weeks for you. It's possible it could be something else other than the lighting too. What's your water parameters and how are the corals dying?

Thanks, man! Liking it too! Yeah, there is, here you go... instagram.com/indoorreef/

About 35cm which is about 13 to 14 inches.

I put a lot of time into caring for it so it means a lot to hear that from you! Thanks!

Thanks for the hint! 👍 Glad it's working for you! I'll take a look. Looking to simplify my dosing so might be a fit.

Hey Anton, they're both pretty different wave makers really but both good at different things. If I could only pick gyres or neros then I'd probably go with the gyres as I like how close I can get them to the surface. The neros are a much narrower flow pattern but the app control is pretty cool. If I can ever grab another nero at a bargain price then I might try them on some fancy opposing pattern. In an ideal world, I'd have all my wave makers on the back wall to be less intrusive but with the aquascape design I have it's not so practical I think.