That's some weeb shit. Awesome

Cool

now, there's also a black version

Looks great man. I like it a lot. If you fill in the straws with hotglue they are very sturdy and strong 😉.

You should try them with an airbrush. I did necrons with airbrush and they looks great.

Subscribing now , yes

The first person was Alpharius

Prism Power looks to be an interference color, so over water it should look more pink with blue flashing while over dark it looks blue with pink flashing. Just a weird quirk of that king of paint. Easier to see if you plaint over a black and white check pattern.

I used Radium over the top of Ammo's enamel based chrome paint and it was super interesting- didn't have much shiftyness but one of the most vibrant greenish yellow metallics I've seen

Nice work, but they're monks not samurai

Would love to see more of your custom/kitbashed pieces here. Got a snippet of some really cool looking minis

Impressive. Just started my army

Beautiful work. Looks fantastic. Really inspiring.

Try boardgame straps to secure the shelves temporarily until you come up with a frontal cover. If you haven't seen them, they are stretchy bands which will go over all sides.

Price is fair for preassembled terrain piece in acceptable scale. Truck is cool bonus. But, now I want a beef dip and there are no Arby's near me anymore.

👍 Hobbies transport boxes are a scam, magnetized or worse the non-magnetized ones. Good bye the newbox GW ! just ridiculus and very expensive 👎 A little imagination and DIY, we have a good box for our miniatures and not expensive 👌

I have that same hot glue gun lol nice vid!

Trick from back in the day. Take two knife bits, either two scalpel blades or two fresh but broke off sections of stanley knife (boxcutter iirc) blades and glue them to a piece of whatever material you are building with. In this case, foam core. That twin bladed bit of foamcore will now, when using a steel rule, cut an absolutely perfect strip of paper the precise width of that foam core. Which means you can very, very quickly repaper the exposed foam edges, making it WAY easier to paint black. Also, if the paper you are cutting IS black (or grey or whatever) you won't even need to do that.

Looks like it will be fun to play on. A couple of thoughts: If you don't need the boards to be modular, you might want to put your streets at an angle to the board. Diagonal layouts are more visually interesting in general. Also, if you put a bend in your main road, you'll get a more tactically interesting set of lines of sight. Right angles to sides are very useful if you want to be able to rearrange the streets, of course. Interesting build with the canvas boards, but it sounds like you don't quite like the result as it stands. If you have the tools for cutting, MDF is inexpensive, rigid, and relatively thin. It's a bit heavier than those canvas boards, but only a bit, and it's noticeably cheaper. And it looks like you have what's a very common misconception about the dashed lines in streets: each dash is actually 10' long and they're 30' apart (call it 2" long and 6" apart for the usual 28-ish mm figures, more for larger scales). Because of the angle, they look both shorter and closer together when you're driving. Streets do very strange things to our perceptions.

Sabertooth’s in for a bit of a surprise when Optimus Prime transforms!

Finally someone who actually painted the terrain! I know bamboo is supposed to be yellow or brown due to age and dryness, but when I did mine I had a lot of green tones too because I like that coloration more. My parents have a lot of stands of bamboo in their yard and they have a lot of color variation. When I used green, I made the mids more yellow/brown on the horizontal surfaces because they were getting more wear-and-tear. One of the smaller ruins pieces was full-on green bamboo because I imagined they just put that one together and it was "fresh". I did a dark brown base coat for the "ropes" but the dry brushing made it look like dirty white rope which is the effect I was going for.

awesome!!

I've been using TurboDork paints for a while, I have an army of Grey Knights and I've been using wavelength as my base coat on a black primer followed by Cristal cave as a highlight then silver fox, anf finally a mix of tin star and silver fox for my final highlights. The final results are depending on how the light hits this cool shift from blue to silver.

Very nice.

Wait.... you feed your kids? That's your time problem right there. They can forage!

Great tutorial

These half-naked dwarfs can be painted to a good mid level within 15min per pop after AB. Airbrush medium dark metal, airbrush skin, 2 layers - takes about 20min per 10. Brushwork: beard: 2 speed paints and the nappy in any solid color with a wash, fix metal with the brush in an highlight metal color, Ink for tint. Wash for skin recesses. Done. done that 110 times ; ) That slapchop nonesense can have a place, not sure if it's on these "rather clean" sculpts - maybe rats or undead I see it. All in all nice video mate!

This is great! Thanks. I was hoping for a little inspiration

Clever, cheap and creative work, realistic wood/rocks, big like!

I like this modular layout. And just these road sections would fit so many game systems. How would you recomend reinforcing the canvases?

Oh this is pretty cool, I never thought about using canvas frames like that. Great tutorial!

www.kickstarter.com/projects/rpcraft/book-of-conflict-brutal-races?ref=djtb0a

Thanks for sharing this great idea.

Amen...love it. Anything quick easy and I can plow through my gray shame pile. What was the color shifting paint you used?

Just found the channel and have subscribed. Good luck on your KZbin journey! -John

Loved the video and the idea behind the tokens thanks for sharing. Could you try something similar for 40k?

Love it hahahahaha well done

Good job! I like when we look at armies & miniatures we painted, we get that feeling of "that was worth the journey!"

Finally! Alexa's spying on me has worked out for me. I was changing my furniture around and was LITERALLY thinking of how to store my minis

My biggest hurdle when attempting any kind of freehand is that I was thinking about it in terms of talent and not skill and technique. Now I always find a reference image that is at least close to what I want and I paint it on as if it were a mini, putting shadows where the shadows go and highlights where the highlights go in almost a paint-by-numbers-esque manner. The freehand is flat, but the shadow and highlights still go in the same places as if it were 3D. This may sound super obvious, but boy oh boy was it a revelation and took a LOT of the fear of freehanding away for me. I still need a ton of practice, but at least I don't just feel anxiety when I attempt a freehand.

idk i like the suck cut a lot @ninjon

Incredible!! Simply incredible

Great intro. How am I the fing first comment.

i love too much!!!!👍

What no links to the product?

Thank you very much for the review. We hear your feedback and if we have the resources, we might release a few levels of the pack as the launch is getting closer. Very good review!

15’000 points more and we could play an equal point wise match against each other😂

Can you give a bit more detail on the spray paint over PVA to give the crackle effect? I feel i'm missing a step. Ie, what kind of spray paint, do we let the PVA completely dry or hit it wet? Etc...

Loved the blue lightning effect bases and also the blue of the slayers hair. Lovely job!

DnD DM here. I have about 5K minis and a lot are from war hammer. Makes it amazing for larger scaler monsters. Soul lights are the best for these, but all have a few to pick from. But Nagash for Vecna… amazing