Check the belt, it could be slipping and making the auger stop. It isn't too bad to replace. Also make sure your paddles are in good shape as well. I have also sprayed silicone spray on the inside of the chute, it makes it so snow won't stick to the plastic.

Likely not, but if your engine is burning a lot of oil due to a clogged PCV valve, that could be messing up the O2 sensors. And it could be fouling the spark plugs as well, causing misfires. I'd check the PCV valve to make sure the crankcase can breathe.

You are right. There is for sure a weight savings, and more torque. For certain applications, 2 stroke engines are better in my opinion.

@@jacktischer6676 But 2 strokes also run rougher and make more noise. And of course they make more smoke. I surmise the reason they lasted longer in boats is because the exhaust was filtered through the water. Still, as of 2007 they are just about extinct, even the hi-tech ones like the E-tech and Optimax. The problem for the "tree huggers" is that 2 stroke engines can last almost forever.

Fuel, spark, air most likely carb needs some carb spray

It did not make a difference in the actual running of the engine, but adding this catch can will help keep the intake valves clean.

I believe it is an Attwood blower for the bilge. It is not the original one to the boat, it has been replaced with the Attwood. No issues with it so far.

I use one from the iphone app and works just fine.

It was using the Garmin depth finder on the boat.

It only catches the oil that would have been routed to the intake, it does not return oil to the engine.

This one is at least 35-40 years old, and it always starts on the first pull for me. It doesn't burn much oil if at all. The older ones like this one are much better than the newer 8 HP Tecumseh engines.

It does not say. It says 13 amps at full load, so it's likely around 1 or 1.25 HP.

The sound of a hairclipper 💀

I have no idea when your birthday is, so I don't know.

It looks like A RMT got interrupted with a CAE.

No codes or lights at all. It runs the same as it did before.

@@jacktischer6676 thx for the reply

Not really, everything seems to be fine with no difference in the driving dynamics.

I just commented, and pinned the comment to the top so all can see.

It's a new, stock one, but I modified it as mentioned in the video.

I'm getting a decent amount of milky and oil substances in the catch can. It is more than I thought. In a little over 1,000 miles of driving, I've gotten around 7-8 ounces (close to a cup) of the milky crap that it catches, as of 2-13-2023. I installed it just before Christmas of 2022. Lots of the driving that I do is about 6.5 miles a day to school. That definitely generates lots of the moisture in the engine, because of both the colder Wisconsin temps, and short trips. But I do like to go on longer drives, to get all of the crap out of the oil- which I would go somewhere a good 10 miles away every weekend or so. When the temps get warmer for the summer, I imagine it will catch less crap overall, and not as much white milky crap. Modifying the PCV valve definitely helped to get all of the crap out of the engine. I should make a follow up video, and I'm glad someone was interested in the results of this.

@@jacktischer6676 That's awesome 👍, these 3.6's have a chronic problem with oil consumption/blowbye imo.

@@unorthodoxridez @Unorthodox Ridez If taken care of really well, they can be a decent engine. I check the oil very frequently, and change it by color as well- not letting it get dark and black. Lots of these engines fail because people simply neglect oil changes.

@@jacktischer6676 agreed

@@jacktischer6676i have a 2017 buick and that model year you cant change the rear pcv it only interchangable if you replace the valve cover, its a newer design according to the stealership. But i did exactly in your video. Thank you for your vid it help out alot.

I said this in the description about that: "It is worth mentioning that some people have installed another catch can on the "clean air" side of the PCV system, to keep the throttle body clean. I have not had issues with the throttle body getting really dirty, so at this point no catch can is needed." The only time the oil comes from the foreword PCV valve off the snorkel is during high engine speed events, or if the PCV valve that I captured is clogged. Then it would get the throttle body dirty. I don't drive that much, and the throttle body has not given me any issues with getting dirty. I cleaned it once - and it wasn't that dirty, but that was because I replaced the air filter and had stuff apart anyway.

Yours is running with to much oil mixture. Mine screams loud/ stronger.

Yes, carefully cut the hard plastic off of the fitting that connects / snaps onto the metal PCV valve. You will also have to do that for the fitting on the top of the intake manifold as well. Then yes, put the hose you bought on both of those fittings in accordance with the catch can inlet/ outlet.

So you are getting what I assume is a good, hot spark, and gas into the combustion chamber. Because it is two stroke, That would seem like you would have no issues. There are only a few things that I can think of with your situation: Maybe the engine is getting flooded. If you are priming the engine too much or the carburetor is dumping too much fuel into the combustion chamber, it won't want to start, and pulling it more will make it even less likely that the engine will start. I've had that issue sometimes with my machine, where is floods easily even though it runs really good, and it won't want to start. To deal with that, take the spark plug out and let the engine sit a while, and then try again. When you pull the recoil for the pull start, does it turn over really easily, or is there some resistance? If the engine turns over really easily and you can't feel much resistance (compression), chances are your engine is wore out internally and can't achieve the right compression to actually run. Or parts like the reed valves or something like that happen to be rusted Maybe because it sat so long unused, the internal components rusted and froze up, but I feel that isn't that likely. The last thing I can think of is the engine is not timed right, like the flywheel got moved so the spark doesn't happen at the correct time with respect to the piston. But again, very unlikely because the engine would have to be taken apart or messed with for that to happen. Seems very difficult to diagnose because presumably you are getting fuel and spark, and air isn't really an issue as there is no air filter. If you have any more specific details, let me know as maybe then I could try to figure something out.

@@jacktischer6676 yeah I did prime it a little too much because I drained the tank and let it run dry. I left the plug out overnight to let it dry out. I do have good resistance when I pull. I’ll try it again tomorrow. Thanks

did you use ethonal gas in any of the blowers lifetime before storing it? ethonal will deteriorate the rubber components over time if the float is soaked even tho its drained and then filling the bowl with gas is when the clunk gets pushed thru the screen causing blockage