When it’s finished :)

I'd hazard a guess that its because it was designed by the voron design team as part of the Voron ecosystem, but you're absolutely right, it can be used anywhere that has Klipper.

You're absolutely right, i should have mentioned it! because I too made the same mistake!

What a bargain, the build was uneventful and the printer just ‘works’ so I never got around to filming a review video of this machine :)

Hi, I did make a small mistake whilst filming, or rather... not filming (I apparently didnt hit record), Anyway, what you'll need to install the bed is just the bed, 4x screws as per the manual and either 1 or 2 carbon ring spacers and a washer, there are 8 included in the kit, i went with 2 on each corner for safety (To ensure the heater doesnt touch the carriage screws). As for the CAD model, theres a good documentation on using these on the LH Stinger Wiki: github.com/lhndo/LH-Stinger/wiki/CAD-Viewer-Primer

Possibly, but then there is openeptune that allows you to run virgin Klipper.

@@makermylo uh ok so we must change firmware. Did you know some printer in this price range that have right Klipper version? Creality? Artillery?

You will need to be able to print ABS to create the ERCF itself (or buy a printed parts kit), however the build and config is pretty straight forward, the documentation is amazing and the ERCF team on the Voron Discord are incredibly helpful.

@@makermylo That's good to hear. Seems like the vast majority of people think that it is simple enough for the adverage printer user to build, but a fair few people also saying the absolute opposite. Are you able to give me any feedback about the voron toolhead sensor I mentioned, what it does and how the ercf performs without it?

Yea you could run really long wires all the way back to the mcu but it would be a pain.

For heat management, if you enclose the printer you don’t want your electronics within the heated enclosure, so this way they’re kept cool and separate, the breakout board on the printer is just that, it’s not an MCU.

Did I not mention that in the video? Maybe I cut it out, I remember saying it whilst filming but was trying to stick to the cad models

You can't compare the stinger with a bambu. The Stinger is a high-speed bettslinger with outstanding print quality, significantly better components and open source. For people who just want to print, the bambu is ok. But if you want to go to the limit, it's just not usable.

@@abstractflo3739 for the price of LH i can buy two A1 and my print speed will be much faster, I don’t say LH bad printer but his price not competitive.

They don't follow the 'Race to the bottom' ethos on price and there is no 'need' to buy an LH Stinger, you buy one because they're cool, different and a challenge to tinker with. I agree with you 100% if you just want a quick(ish) 3D printer that prints out of the box then by all means get yourself a Bambu or Prusa machine. For those of us that love to tinker Voron's, Stingers and other OpenSource DIY projects are for fun, more than practicality.

Good Choice :) Don't forget to use the links in the video description :) they help out the channel immensely!

It's coming! input shaping, max speed and obviously print quality.

@@makermylo excellent 😁 Looking forward to it. I bought my V0.2 kit from Formbot, but they do not offer a cnc version, so I was wondering how it performs. Many thanks for the work

The CNC Kit is available separately too :) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_De3IpJl

Thank you :) A review is coming soon.

Thank you :) stay tuned for the build / showdown.

The installation is very much the same process :)

Thanks :) it’s been put back to stock now mostly as I’ve since moved on to a voron machine but I’m finding it hard to let go of the good old Elegoo :)

Hey! The print in the video was slowed down significantly as it was a sparkle PLA that is not good with heat, even with the auxillary cooling fans in vase mode it can't cool fast enough on the v0 to not warp (i had about 10 false starts). Using ABS and fully enclosed its easily doing 25k Accel's and prints (reliably) upto around 250-300mm/s i've not really pushed it much further than that but im sure it could.

Hey thanks! The filter was this one: www.printables.com/model/809509-filtervzero-active-carbon-filter-for-voron-v0

You could run the BTT SB2209 SB2040 board the same as mine via Canbus but you may need a BTT U2C module, im unsure if the stock N4 board provides CAN. with a U2C however you could. You could then connect the Carto to the CAN network or directly to the SB board.

Thanks! I had actually figured this out during the build, this being my first 2.4 left me somewhat baffled! but i got there in the end!

@makermylo I'm waiting for the regular kit to arrive in a few days. This will also be my first 2.4 build - I have built a v0.2 which I will use to print my parts.

@@mathijsb28v Thats exactly how i did it :) Built the V0 with a printed parts kit to print my 2.4 parts, which ironically enough, as we speak is printing parts for my next v0 build.

I've already built the kit and its brilliant, i'll be posting a review video soon :) just putting it through its paces, but i can say, nothing in the kit has failed or been an issue, excluding the CNC TAP, that wasn't great but i had no intention on using it anyway but fitted it to try it out.

The head can travel quite far off the bed, however i have no 'poop' thats why there is such a large purge tower, im cutting filament then purging out the remaining TIP.

Hey the mount is available on my printables page here: www.printables.com/model/732480-choppy-24t-22mm-long-servo-horn-filamatrix As for programming its all included on the printables page :) Reach out if you have issues.

@@makermylo thanks

Hey the mount is available on my printables page here: www.printables.com/model/732480-choppy-24t-22mm-long-servo-horn-filamatrix As for programming its all included on the printables page :) Reach out if you have issues.

Hey, I did spot the extra hardware, it measured up to M5x16, I assume it just doesn’t fit within the hardware box as they were identical so I used the ones from the box. I’ve been printing the standard voron STLs for now, I’ll be installing a Knomi on the tool head anyhow so I won’t be using the stock STLs

They're a TBStron kit, I won't recommend it, it added nothing to my abilities at all, just less maintenance.

Are these the normal parts or the Hiwin parts?

@@maschine20Just the TBStron3d rails as they come, i did strip them completely, clean and repack them with Mobilux EP-1 grease to free them up but they're still 'meh'.

It is indeed yes, the stock mainboard runs Klipper :)

Hi Daisy, I'd love to hear from you, feel free to email me, my email is maker [at] mylo.fun

@@makermylo cool thing. :)

Can't argue with that, already started looking into a new camera with a view finder.

@@makermylonot trying to just pile on the complaints, but during video editing you definitely want to make sure the audio is about the same volume during different clips

​@@gavinhanson321I would say take what you've learned now and focus on the next the video. If you remove this video, and reupload it fixed, your subscribers won't watch it, and think it's the same video they've already seen so they won't click it

I'm sure you could make it work but i dont think the 4 board would "Fit" into the 3 shell, im unsure on mounting holes etc, however electronically i don't see any reason why it wouldn't work, most of the other hardware is essentially the same.

@@makermylo I contacted Elegoo. Even though Elegoo says the engines are not the same, I think the engines are the same. Have you used Neptune 3 and 4?

@@makermylo New holes can be drilled for mounting, I think it is no problem. It is enough to get the speed and acceleration I want from Neptune 3.

​@@kadirbaydemir2957 They do tend to say that about everything, as they can't support modified products, having said that almost all printers use the same types of connections, however i don't have a pinout of the Neptune 4 Board to be able to say for sure that it would be plug and play. The best way to achieve what you want however would be to simply install Klipper onto the Neptune 3 Board, you'll need a host such as a Raspberry Pi or for novice users a BigTreeTech Pad 7 would be ideal. the Neptune 3 Board takes Klipper no problem and it performs very well and doesn't require you opening up the printer or fitting different boards etc.

Heres my Neptune 3 Plus, with the stock mainboard running Klipper doing speeds and accelerations 2x faster than a Neptune 4, you don't need the rails for it either, properly adjusted wheels on the stock carriages will handle it just fine.

Yeah although it doesn’t matter which you use as the EBB has a built in buck and you can simply set the voltage for the fans using a jumper on the board :)

@@makermylo perfect! Thank you!

It cools absolutely fine for what I need, my setup was done for the cutting abilities of the multi material setup, my 2.4 is going to be Xol I think.

Bed slinger have it limit of y axis so with good looking and easy to maintain stealthburner isnt a bad choice

They're built to do it from factory, they're certainly not a budget bed slinger :D

@@makermylo I wasn't comparing, Although the A1 Mini is certainly a budget bed slinger (costs the same as the Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus) and can also do high quality sub 13 minute benchy's.

@@hippopotamus86 This is very true, the A1 is quite impressive, i've not seen the quality of its benchy, this was more an exercise on what I could achieve using what i have rather than to compete with other machines.

@@makermylo It's still impressive. I was going to go the Voron route too.

@@hippopotamus86 I'm excited to get started building my 2.4, the Neptune will probably go back to near stock then to just use as a reliable backup.

I run the BTT Canbus controller, and NOW i run a BTT Mainboard however you can do all of this on the factory board as the BTT Toolhead plugs directly into your Klipper Host (Raspberry Pi etc).

If it runs Klipper then theres nothing stopping you!

Search my name on Printables :)

I've just added a new video on fitting it :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2i0qYeLhLSsa9E

I did indeed, it wasn’t stable and was a huge pain to keep it squared, it just wasn’t any good for the large size.

Yeah I switched to a BTT EBB canbus controller board too, but before I did that I printed a bracket to allow use of the original hotend board, some wires needed extending but it worked fine.