I guess you didn't mix in mono audio in the stereo mod. Since tapping both outputs on the chip only makes the sound to low. (Due to it not being amplified)

Hello can i somehow reverse it without original vendor.bin file? I can buy DHO802 already hacked to 924 but im afraid of bugs.

Nice repair. FYI I get ads every four minutes which is way too much so I only watched the first 20 minutes.

Thanks for the upload,. FB1K works great and is much faster than FB64 which ive been using for years. Kung-Fu flash and SD2IEC i'm pretty much sorted.

Great video can I ask what did you use to clean the monitor tube.

The audio-cassettes is really the nail in the coffin niche crap garbage they remade similar goes with the VHS-cassettes which is also a niche crap . Between a dvd and video cassette give me more the dvd . For the covers they both have the similar size . Between the CD and audio-cassettes the CD owns for it's lesser care and the cover is larger as there is a booklet with information not with an audio-cassettes . Guess some people are ignorant , too rich they cannot spend their money wisely ... even the black plastic = records/vinyl is out of place way too expensive for crap quality as turntables are made in plastic today wondering why the huge price they dare to ask is beyond me other brands like Marley claims it's wood but not even quality wood pinewood isn't oak .... yet we have Technics which has became way too expensive because wannabe dj's as they never use them anymore since two decades which is facts . Last when will this farce really end ?!? Glad i sold my two Technics SL-1200MKII turntables and above 1000 records . I have cd's now they take less care in all aspect as not everything can be found on records which is facts . Streaming or Mp3 ...is a big no.

I went for this campaign as well. My clear case has the same marks. My blue case has them, buyt they are almost unnoticeable with the opaque color. I also ordered a red and a blue led Mechboard, both sets of stabilizers are upside down. I built two Mechboards before the led option was available and the directions on Mountain Buffalo's site are pretty clear. Even with all of that, I'm really happy with the cases and keyboards.

Only time I 'hacked' a TOSLINK connector on a device was on my DISH Network satellite TV receiver back in the 2000's. Worked good for years, and sounded better than the RCA outputs.

My first repair back then in the 80's. one of the solder point gave way and i had to find out after seeing sparks coming from the board. i had no clue about soldering but still went to Tandy/RadioShack, bought some soldering iron and did trial and errors before fixing it. this taught me to fix stuff myself for the last 35 years

I'd love it if you could look at my old Sony CDP-608ESD. I get occasionally skipping and the guy in Brooklyn who I thought would be expensive but effective won't event look at this or my rotel that is completely inop

I have a 1084s that failed, producing a whining noise just 4 days ago.I left it running, went for dinner, came back and there was a high pitched whine. I was wondering, in your video, you talk over the point where you turn off the monitor with it whining away. When you turn it off, did the whine decrease in pitch in a stepped manner. Mine does this for about 7 seconds or so, almost sounds like a vocoder effect?

can this use a pc-10 palette?

would a crt have less lag?

the mod i've been waiting for. my preference is to just build a custom cable rather than run an ossc. looks like it might stretch the video a touch from side to side, but i'm all over this when it's officially released.

Nice video! I have an identical 1084S-P that had an identical failure of the flyback where you could still hear the power supply frequency, but nothing else. I tried replacing the flyback with an original one from another 1084 and that worked perfectly. An HR7506 was duly ordered from WagnerOnline and it finally arrived about two months later. I fitted it and straightaway had a ‘fizzing’ at the sides of the picture - worse when the brightness was increased. I brushed against the high-voltage wire and it fell out of the flyback - I couldn’t see how it was supposed to be attached, so I soldered a spring to the centre wire and pushed the wire into the hole with some hot glue through the slots in the casing. This immediately solved the fizzing problem and I had a nice picture - until the flyback warmed up (about ten minutes). It gets hot to the touch and then it arcs somewhere in the middle (can see the flash around the ferrite core, in a dark room). So a loud snap sound and the picture jumps every 30 seconds. I notice these are not sealed around the core as the originals are, and the core also looks crooked/bent. I checked the 125V is correct and I don’t see what else could be causing the flyback to arc when an original flyback did not. I guess WagnerOnline won’t want to replace this, especially with the hot glue and spring, but my question is whether I should take a chance on another one? It’s getting expensive. Thanks for reading

I’d be interested to know which audio embedder you’re using but your affiliate link to alie-express is no longer working ☹️

I have a twin model of this monitor as Philips CM8833, manufactured in 1987. Unfortunately, older models had a completely different flyback transformer, there are no replacements for them available (HR6489). They have a physically different pinout. I fitted a transformer from a newer version as in the film (HR7506). Electrically everything fits. I had to remove several elements, including the FOCUS potentiometer from the CRT neck PCB. Because in the newer model it is built into the flyback transformer. 🧐

Mine needs to warmup before stable image. So some bad capacitor somewhere. Im just guessing.

It's a good idea to also swap the HOT (clamped to the large metal plate at the flyback) when swapping flyback. 2SD1577 is common (marked D1577). I usually also swap the caps in the powersupply and its switch , then adjust the voltage on the pot (125V on the latest 1084). In the latest one also all the circa 50 electrolytic capacitors. Those HR-brand flybacks seems to require rotating the image slightly. Usually it's enough to loosen the screw on the neck and twist a little. Had that happen several times.

I threw 2 or 3 away of those when they died. I used one for some time, it died and if I recall correctly, the one that replaced it also died within a few weeks. In the garbage it goes as the 8 bit guy would say. Power LED seems broken Switch is mostly compatible with PREH TV3, it was sold for a few cents but all the retro guys resell it for xx amount of bucks now. Sad story but true.

If this is the Christmas 'mo I can't wait for Easter.

As a 15 year old American, I was flabbergasted when Commodore announced these two. It made ZERO sense. They had a successful Vic-20 that served its purpose and needed to go away, and the best selling PC of all-time in the Commodore 64. So they release a new and incompatible Vic-20 called the C16 and a new and incompatible C64 called the Plus/4. WTF? Our K-Mart closed the Plus/4's out for $12.95, and even then I had zero interest. Like most Americans, I soon had a 16-bit PC (an Amiga 1000) and left the 8-bit world behind. Sadly, Commodore did NOT leave that world behind and kept making new 8-bit machines right into the Windows 3.0 days of 386s and 486s. They deserved to go out of business for that and for not improving the Amiga tech they bought until it was too late to matter. Commodore was all but irrelevant in the United States by mid-1989. What a waste and a sad ending to a story that started out the decade with such promise.

That Konami t-shirt is mad fresh 👌👍

Great work ;) ... what was the part number of the flyback?. I've one that is doing exactly the same .. regards Steve

thankyou, a great repair :)

SICK GOATEE DUDE

Great job buddy! Another one saved:)

Glad you both are here! I have the Phillips version of this monitor and I was thinking of trying to mod it for S-video and add a scart connector. I worked in NTSC video at Kodak years ago, so I am familiar with the test patterns and setup but never worked inside the monitors. So I’m looking forward to seeing your scart addition and seeing if you can bypass the composite input separation filters.

The most Aussie look.

Very nice! Glad these flybacks are still available!

Put the TV down on a towel and it will be easy to turn around without scratching the glass ...

Nice vid! Looking forward to the scart video, Im installing one too later on.

Scart mod yeah!!!

You're not sponsored by PCB-Way? No way!!!

I have two 1084 monitors working, they were the best thing since sliced bread for ataris and amigas

The power switch for a 1084 can be found super easy. Due to being so notorious for going bad that's the one part you can find without issue.

I can see why Valterri Bottas’ big takeaway from living in Australia is the beard and mullet. Looks swag.

Your hockey hair is filling in nicely and you've already got your playoffs beard. Great video. I didn't know these could be replaced.

Cool video. Monitor looks like new !!!

They put different models of power switches into these monitors. The ones usually failing are the Preh ones, which can be distinguished by their mostly plastic casing. The one in your monitor is a Matsushita one, which are usually fine.

My "temporary" fix for the power switches on Philips monitors like this one or the monochrome Computer Monitor 80, is to solder both wires to one terminal. However I'm in the UK, so it's still easy to turn the monitor on and off using the switch on the mains socket, without unplugging it. Don't tell Alec from Technology Connections though.

I had the flyback (HR7506) replaced in my Philips CM8833 a few years ago. It has the same bloom/breath as yours does here where I'm pretty sure the original didn't.

Happy New Year🎉🍻! Great Video Like Always!👍🏻👌🏻

The monitor looks great. Well done!

Happy new year. Damn that haircut is getting insane levels of swag.

I'm still watching the vid but is that a Mullet you have? Love it...

🍪

That looks like a fun project for a rainy day. Great work mate. I'll give it a shot.

I wonder if the flyback for the PAL monitors is different from NTSC monitors? You seem to constantly be running into these with bad flyback. I haven't had one be bad yet over on this side of the pond.