Cutting the wire actually worked!!!! I kept my truck running while doing it. There's a permanent solid red light on the dash now, but that's totally fine. I can restart my truck like normal whenever now!!!! Thank you so much!

Garbage content . This doesn’t work at all

But GM says my key isn’t chipped. Thoughts?

Recently purchased the truck and it happened to me while shopping. Waited 10 minutes and it started, but I work in a pretty desolate area and didn't want it to happen leaving work at midnight. Reading a bit, there is no guarantee replacing just the sensor will do it as it could be the cylinder itself misreading the resistance in the key (not a chip key). I cut the wire and it seems to have worked, but YES, the security light is on steady. Nothing some black tape can't fix :)

Had that issue today... Such a pain in the ass. Thanks for the video

I guess this applies to the RPM gauge too. Mine is off by 700. I use the digital and it shows about 740 in idle. The analog is way below zero in idle. Thanks for the video. Looks good.

I remember when this happened during date night in the truck man 20 min of ac n radio killed the battery and when I tried starting her up mind u we were in a somewhat remote location from the city at this time ngl I was trippin for a sec but what worked for me was disconnecting the battery for about 5 minutes while I set up the jump box because I assumed the battery has died attempted to start it with the dead and passlocked truck it gave me the same results as the beginning of the video but I jumped it while turning the wheel to the left hard asf and left all doors open while doing so and she started right up and the problem never arose again hope that helped guys keep on rockin

My light is solid still won't start

My 2008 Colorado does this bs to me quite often. Easy fix that works for me is to leave driver side door open, put key in ignition and turn/leave to “on” position, wait 10 minutes and boom cranks right up.

Appreciate the video! Thx!

Mine cuts off and reads power reduced, then cut the switch off and let it sit and it starts back just to cut off again. It only does it in the mornings. Will this fix my problem?

Mannn!! Im glad I found this video! Ima try it TODAY! Cause this making me late for work and when im tryna run away from my girl when she chasing me with a knife. 😂 Update: Still came on!🤦🏿‍♂️😭 Didnt work for me

There’s a way you can reset the cluster turning the key on and off a certain amount of times

Will the light say on after you cut it?

Good

Are the instrument back lights replaceable on that cluster

It’s the same setup as on my b8 s4 I usually use and air hammer around the hub to get it out I’ve done 3 wheel bearings on it so far

Thanks for sharing

Mentally hate it but love the truck

very helpfull thanks

If you read your users manual it states that the passlock system stays active for exactly 10 Minues. Shits annoying

The following steps worked for my 05 Colorado. 1. Turn key to ON position 2. Wait for blinking light to turn solid. (Don’t let light turn off completely) 3. Turn to OFF position for 10 sec 4. Turn all the way on. The key to this was not letting the light turn off on board , only make it stop blinking.

I did that to 2012 F150 a few times, it keeps popping off, it acts like it's having a seizure when it pops off, I had better results just by buying a used one off ebay for like $45.00 or so, also be careful when reinstalling the replacement unit make sure you disconnect the battery first and have the ignition key in the off position, or it may damage the replacement when reconnecting it, or it may go into seizure mode.

Worked for me!!! No clicking also , went full counter clockwise then clock wise to zero. Probably saved me $1K at the dealer thanks for the tutorial

I needed this video a year ago, I was successful, and today needed a mind refresher, and again this video pulled through.

Worked on my 04 canyon but I didn’t have to leave it running while doing it. Yes the pass lock light stays on now but I don’t care. I’ve had several issues since then ( about 3 years ago) but mostly sensors and ground issues. These trucks electrical issues are very frustrating. I’ve probably spent a couple thousand that I never had to spend chasing this stuff even with a qualified mechanic. My best and most rewarding options were to just look up solutions on KZbin or in forums and to spend several hours doing my own research.

The only reason I searched this video was to know the size of the triple square... Rear brakes needs a M14 ...if anyone cares 😆🤣

The 10 minute wait has worked for me pretty consistently. I only run into the issue a couple of times a year.

For future reference, car brands typically stick with the same sizes. For Gm, Chevy, Buick it’s 10,13,15,18,21 for Japanese cars like Hondas it’s 10,12,14,17,19,21

My old 87 Ford ranger had all the dinging noise and everything didn't have a passlock but back then all you had to do was unplug it under the dash now you have to cut wires and hope you don't screw something up

Where did you fine the replacement ones

For removing the 6 bolts connecting the hub and rotor, leave the caliper and brakes on. Loosen up those 6 bolts before anything else while using the brakes to hold the rotor/hub assembly from spinning. Youll thank me later.

This happens to mine all the time. I can tell you what has worked every single time. Leave your door open. Put the key in but don't turn it. It will beep fast about 6-8 times. Turn the key forward to the accessory position. Wait until the lights all come on and stop flashing, usually 2-4 seconds. Then start it up. It's the most convoluted thing I have ever seen but it works every dang time lol

what about machining or replacing those scratched rotors

This fix was anything BUT easy for me. My speedometer needle also broke off. I thought this would be an easy fix…until I fiddled with opening up the curved cluster panel window after removing it from the dash. I snapped off 3 clips because they kept popping back into place. That alone took at least two frustrating hours. 😡 Things then got worse. I switched the tach needle with the speedometer needle (after gluing it back together) to make sure I had the stronger needle on the speedo side. I set both to 0. As soon as I connected and screwed the cluster panel back in, I noticed the tach needle was sagging about 20 degrees below the 0 mark! WTH?!? I reluctantly tried the process again the next day. I removed and attached both tach/speedo needles again to make sure they were secure and set them to zero. But when I plugged it back in, I heard a rapid machine gun-like "ticking" sound…I noticed BOTH the tach and speedo dials are now sagging below zero! 🤦🏻‍♂️Why did this happen? This happen to anybody else? Is there a step I’m missing? I really don’t want to spend hundreds at the dealership, but it looks like I’ll have to. This is very frustrating. Can anybody please fill me in? Thanks!

replace the rotors after all that shit

Bull crap DONT WORK . DIDN'T WORK ON MY 05 CANYON

Did some of the Passlock systems have chips in the keys? Mines a 2006 Colorado and I know for fact that it has no chip in the key. I got the truck in 2018 and it's had this problem since I've had it. It's progressively getting worse and very aggravating. When I shut it off, I never know if the Passlock will act up and have to wait.

Did not disconnect battery now it wont start just clicks any ideas?

Mine did this THIS MORNING

It worked for me...i dont care about the light ...just want it to start everytime

Where do you buy replacement?

My 2006 H3 Hummer has been gradually getting worse. Today I purchased a steering column from an o6 Canyon, from an auto salvage, and removed only the small round black sensor part. Two screws to get it off. I also had to make sure it was in park and turned the key to let the sensor come out of the switch. I then took the plastic off the Hummer column, three Torx screws. Removed the old sensor. Installed the new used one. Put everything back and followed the formula to reset the key. 10 minutes on, 5-20 seconds off. I had to do this four to 5 times, and it started. Been frigging with this problem for a year. I am not a mechanic, and have no garage to work in. ANYONE can do this. Hope this info helps someone.

That's nice except you failed to mention how you got the truck running which is why people watched your video... because their vehicle won't start

Happens all the time to mine. I wait 10 minutes on the dot and it starts. So if you ever want to steal my truck and this happens wait ten minutes. Usually when I have to be at work in 5 minutes

Is it the same for a 2004 ?

HOW FREAKING FAST WERE YOU GOING?

Anyone know why my RPM meter don’t work?

So after you cut do you have engine light and all kinds of fault lights on the dash?

Worked for me! Got mine back to zero except mine did not click when turning. We shall see how long it lasts…