Sorry! I’ve had a lot going on and haven’t done much to it lately. I’ll try to get something out soon!

Get one! This one is for sale if you are interested

Don't tempt me Frodo.

I think you can do it without removing the cover. I was curious what it looked like inside the cover. I found the parts numbers online on a triumph dealers website. It did take some searching.

Yes, thank you!

I googled and found it online. If you email me at [email protected] I can send it to you

Yes, you can modify a cover. I might do that in the future

It is a quality piece!

I googled and found the factory service manual in a .pdf when I was doing this. I tried to find it again and am not having any luck. e-mail me at [email protected] and I'll send you the .pdf I'm not having any cold start tapping that I have noticed.

It really does!

Awesome! You will love it

I’m glad it helped you

I googled and found a .pdf online of a dealer manual.

I’m not sure

All very good advice. I usually spray all the jets out with carb cleaner. I’m not sure why I didn’t hear. I’ve never heard of the metal grate breaking down parts before, but that makes sense. I’ll keep all of these suggestions in mind and modify how I use it in the future!

@@motohomeless9168 With the soft alloy/pot-metal Amal uses on these carbs, you want to be extra cautious with them.

No problem!

I’ve got a regular air filter. I love my JIS screwdriver! It grips better than a standard one.

@@motohomeless9168 so you have the oem stock filter? Right on

There is a special Commando ring (steel) that fits the rubber boots to use the stock air filter. See the Andover Norton parts list.

@@motohomeless9168 Actually JIS is the correct driver for the Amal screws....seen a lot where Philips have ruined the screw head. Be sure to not overtighten the float bowl screws or the carb mounting flange nuts....just get the lock washers to flatten and that's all. Too much will squash the softer carb material and deform the gasket surface and/or warp the carb body, leading to air leaks and possibly even throttle slide jamming.

Glad you like it!

I’m very happy with it!

I’ve never even heard of a nut splitter. I’ll have to look those up!

Wow. If that bike was still around, it would have amazing stories!

I believe that is what I have from Andover Norton

Thanks for Watching!

I tried heat. Did not work.

The intermediate shaft probably damaged the hole by torqueing that camshaft bolt with out a holding device for the outer end of the shaft. (Cutaway old timing cover or Andover Norton type holding tool).

Very solid point. I’ll have to consult with a friend of mine to get his thoughts on it and see which direction I should go in

Also don't forget to examine the crankshaft rod bearing surface and mic them twice at 90 degrees apart. A light polish with fine emery paper by hand can remove any discoloration, but any scoring or out of round will require a machine shop to grind the journal and undersize bearings. If grinding it is imperative the blend into the counterweight be maintained.

For sure! I think the hulk put the last one on

@@motohomeless9168 or an unskilled mechanic 🤣

Should send this video to loctite, daamn bro your shit be craaaazy

@@warmlandmobilebrakes hahaha. I don’t know how it was stuck so bad

Yeah…it took a lot

I tried that with an impact that had 1500 ft lbs of torque.

billcobb9408 - It's a difficult area to work on. The best way to hold the camshaft for removing the nut is to leave the timing chain on and block the timing reduction gears at the crankshaft but there's an issue -- the shaft that holds the larger reduction gear is set into a simple drilling in the crankcase and more energy (either from over-torqueing with a spanner or the pounding of an impact) than specified will break that shaft out of the crankcases and that situation is usually not repairable from a practical standpoint. Another way to go (as shown here) is to remove the timing chain (early Commandos have twin chains, one going to the cam in front and one parallel to the first going to the ignition points (also shown here) -- later Commandos have the points on the end of the camshaft so a single chain provides drive and timing for the cam and ignition. This is what's shown here. The problem with this is that there is no way to securely lock the camshaft into position to provide enough torque onto the nut to break it loose if it was put on too tightly. Something way back in my memory tells me -- so don't rely on it -- that there is a factor that's not is not a real issue but something to keep in mind is (I think) the nut is a left-hand thread so it turns backwards; this isn't a real problem you just turn a spanner the other way than usual or reverse an impact gun but the problem of not being able to hold the cam from turning is still there. A small subsidiary issue is that there is a small brass camshaft bushing that's right behind that sprocket and if you're using a "smoke wrench" to heat the nut up, you run a chance of melting the bushing and at that point, you have probably trashed the crankcases in another way. So what you're seeing in this video is making the best possible outcome of a bad situation and often the "best practical" solution isn't enough to get that nut loose if it's too tight. And, as shown in the video, sometime the only practical way to handle this is to trash the nut, sprocket, and cam if you're going to avoid damaging the cases. (EDIT -- OK, it's official that this old man has CRS. I went and reviewed the workshop manual -- which I should have done in the first place since I wrote it -- and it says clearly that the cam nut is normal right-hand thread; it's the crankshaft timing nut with drive for the intermediate timing gears and oil pump drive that's the left-hand thread. Duhh for me, but it makes no practical difference to the issue of the cam being very difficult-to-impossible to retain strongly enough to really crank on the nut. Apologies.)

@@brucebear1 correct. The only reverse thread is the crank worm gear. I’ve been reading the Normal White manual as thoroughly as possible.

Yeah….i thought it would be good to have the nut first as well, but I already started cutting it. 😂

Yeah, problem is I either lost it in my move or threw it away. I can make something similar up with what I have laying around.

@@motohomeless9168 I think it's pretty much a paper clip thickness of metal 👍

@@motorp742 Yeah, I was thinking about using a wire hangar to do it. Are you the guy that does the conversion?

Will do! Thanks!

Thanks. I tried the method you described to remove the nut. I think the hulk must have put it on. Even with 1500 ft lb capable impact, it was not coming off. I have no idea why it wont come off. I've tried everything short of cutting it off, so I think that is going to be the next move. I hope I don't damage the cam. They are expensive to replace!

It is possible to separate the cases without removing the cam sprocket if the cam is re-usable. It won't be easy. I'm not sure how you removed the cam chain without removing the sprocket, but since the chain does not use a removable link. the chain and sprockets need to be installed as a unit. If you split the cases with the cam still in the timing side case, you will need to remove the intermediate gear shaft. When you re-assemble you would install the chain and sprockets, heat the case side and press the intermediate gear shaft through the sprocket and into the case until it seats against the circlip. I would consider this a last resort.

You've got me hooked now, the nut has to go.

Thank you! They really are!

😂😂 nearly could! Thanks. I absolutely love having it

@@motohomeless9168 Thx for the inspiration to actually work on my own Commando :⁠-⁠D It's on the list! Work safe my man.

Absolutely! Where are you located?

@@motohomeless9168 San Luis Obispo CA. With the Commando- the bike I never thought I would own...

Nice! Other side of the country from me

It’s interesting

Solid suggestions! I will find some brushes. I already ordered new valves, as I don’t want to deal with the unknown.

Thanks!

Can you e-mail me at [email protected]? I would like to talk about this.

The head looks like it is stamped with "RC0" Thats not bringing anything up. I've got digital calipers ordered, so I can get an exact measurement on the ports. The engine number is correct for being a 1969 fastback. 131254

I will measure them in an upcoming video!

A '69 might have an RH1 head which have 28.5mm ports. Lot's of variations and mods over the years however.

@@robertshepherd3832 Yeah, there's no telling what happened to it over the years. I can tell its been apart before. I'll measure soon. Send me an e-mail at [email protected] please! Lets talk there.

Thats a pretty good idea. Thanks!

Thanks. Slowly, but surely.

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!

That’s a good question. I really don’t know

Yes. Not too bad!

Thank you!