@pongotv22 It's my favourite. Always wondered if it was a cover or an original composition, but have never managed to track Andy down so maybe I'll never know :( Thanks for stopping by.

@peterleane6807 Thank you Peter. I think it approximates resonance (although am happy to be proved wrong!) as every push is based on the swing time, and this is re-calculated at each swing. The method is probably over-complicated, but that's just me :) ... The sensor only provides the absolute angle at the time it's read, so to determine the direction of the pendulum, it waits for consecutive readings to differ by a threshold value. This means it will have travelled some distance from top-dead-centre before a decision can be made, but because I wanted the tweaking freedom of pushing at *any* time, the decision is made on the reverse swing. The decision time is then added to half the previous swing period (which is continually updated at each swing) to predict the time for the corresponding point on the subsequent forward swing, and this is then added to a +/- offset. When this time is reached, the stepper motor is energised. I've been adjusting the offset manually to maximise the swing size, and the best values for any given push power give a push somewhere between the end point (top-dead-centre) and the mid-point. Increasing the power and re-tweaking the offset produces larger swings as shown in the video. I managed 0.8m swing with a 2.5m length and 0.5Kg bob weight, and although it may have been possible to get larger swings using more steps per push, I realised such large swings weren't such a good idea after all, so concentrated more on smaller swings with a more pleasing 'tick' sound. Thanks for stopping by, and good luck with your Foucault experiments :)

@dozerblade Great tip Dave, thanks for sharing. Some great tracks on your channel. You wouldn't have a Supernova by any chance? The melody in Salmon Leap has a familiar sound :)

@brokenstring21 Thank you Brandon. Am honoured to be in the presence of such a multi-talented musician :) I liked your bio story of being scolded by teachers :) Good luck for 2025.

@christopherdunn317 No worries Christopher. Glad you found one. Sync boxes do pop up quite frequently if you're patient. Shame some of them ask for ridiculous prices, but that's the 'old-school bandwagon' market for you! You didn't mention the make of the 'other recorder' you were trying to sync with, but as long it can receive MIDI system messages for time code and start/stop, you should be able to slave it to the DP. If you have any problems, just give me a shout, preferably via email: patipping at gmail dot com

​@@philtipping Hi Phil yes thank you ! it was expensive but i never knew you could get these ? i had heard in major studio's syncing two 24 track machines and stuff but i never knew i could do this ? This would have really come in handy way back if i knew LOL ! Oh and the other was a Roland vs-2480 just wanted too try it this way for fun thanks again Phil !

@MarkWalshe-bo1wh yes, the project turned out to be a lot bigger than I thought, but worth it in the end :). Some excellent guitar playing and vocals on your channel; great recordings.

@@philtipping It's a really in-depth tutorial that I'm going to study this week. Such a lot of useable information and work-arounds. I've always liked Tascam desks from the days of the 244. I don't know if it's just nostalgia for the stand-alone's that's brought me back to them but I'm looking forward to finding out. It's not like Apple Logic is exactly lacking in capability. I just feel like getting more hands-on now and videos like yours have inspired me to try. I'm glad you like my songs. Time to upload more now with a better camera.

@MatthewApsey it depends what the output is on your pedalboard. The mod routes the tip of the input TS or TRS plug to both left & right sides of the headphone amp output. If your pedalboard has a mono output, this will be on the tip of the plug anyway so you don't need any adapters. What make is the pedalboard?

@motonoob-i2d thanks for stopping by.

@christopherdunn317 Hi Christopher, the sync box can take any MIDI source (assuming it contains time code messages) and convert it to audio tones for recording a sync track. Just bear in mind, a DP-24/32 machine can only act as a MIDI master, so the other devices have to be in slave mode.

@@philtipping Cool thanks phil ! I read the old manual and it showed how to do some stuff but didn't really show what i wanted, but it did say something about not having all midi messages or something so that kinda worried me about getting it but im sure it will work in the end thanks again !

@gabrielpearcey7564 hey, don't knock yourself down Gabriel. This is a whole new ball-game if you're new to multi-track/digital recording. It's a quantum leap from the old-school stereo cassette recorders, if you remember that far back :) Don't hesitate to ask if you get stuck. These machines can challenge even the experts sometimes.

@kleinenboese395 thank you for the feedback and sharing the tip. The machine should display an error message if no card is inserted so you may have an old version of firmware. I would check/update this before doing any serious work with it. Intermittent buttons can usually be fixed without taking it apart by careful application of switch cleaner. If you're new to the machine, here are some tips I include with my step-by-step guide: - Use a recommended sd-card. - Make sure the firmware is up-to-date (sections 28 & 66 in the guide). If you do have to upgrade the firmware, make sure you re-format the sd-card afterwards... (after backing up any songs first of course). - Do regular backups (section 12)... accidents can happen. - Run the 'delete unused' function every now & again (section 3.6), especially if you do lots of retakes or edits. Thanks for stopping by, and good luck with your recordings.

@@philtipping Thanks a lot for your message!

@lennypopkin4728 Hi Lenny, there are detailed step-by-step instructions in my PDF guide, available here www.philizound.co.uk/freebies/dp24-32/dp24-32.html Here's an small extract from it, including the full index so you can see what topics it covers www.philizound.co.uk/freebies/dp24-32/TascamDp24-32-HowToGuide-166-Sample.pdf These sections should explain what you need: 47. How to record mono sources to mono tracks 37. How to overdub

@trentetherly6010 thank you Trent, glad you like them.

@jawaring4367 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364978060543?var=634582207364

@briandecker8403 thanks Brian; I find that a lot with software. Many times I've made code more complicated trying to fix a problem, and eventually a 'drains-up' followed by a re-structure/simplification solves it :)

@soulrobotics it's still at the pipe-dream stage at the moment, but the plan was to offer church-like peals for special occasions, as well as regular westminster chimes. You're right, the extra solenoid is for the 'hour gong' shown in the video. The algorithm is meant to push after a certain no. of ms after the end of each swing, and that delay is one of the settings which I'm still experimenting with, along with the number of steps per push and the delay between each step. The program can also adjust these itself as the swing builds up so it can throttle things back without actually stopping the pushes. The previous design just disabled the pushes when the max swing was reached, but this gave a distracting gap in the regular 'tick' sound. The software is definitely not right at the moment as the ticking sound is very different between the small & large pendulums. With the large one, the stepper sounds like it's doing many more steps, which is not intentional even though it does get the pendulum swinging. I think the code which determines when to push is getting re-triggered multiple times as the large pendulum swings a lot slower, so I need to ensure each push is a 'one-shot' operation per swing. Once it starts behaving as it should, I'll look at optimising it as you suggest to minimise the amount of force needed. Btw I noticed your organ restoration video has a pleasing slow ticking in the background, so I guess you have a really nice clock somewhere in the room :)

@@philtipping Your project looks very promising! I think an encoder on the axis could help to know where the pendulum is at all times. As for the background noise, you might be disappointed to hear that it’s just a very cheap clock! But hey, it reminds me of the one my father had with four tuning forks! I’ll keep an eye on your channel to see how it turns out - very interesting! By the way, your mechanical work is amazing - clean and strong. Congrats!

@soulrobotics thank you for the kind words :) Yes the rotary encoder was definitely the right decision as there is no ambiguity with what the pendulum is doing. Have inspected the code now and found the problem so hope to post a follow-up soon.

@gptvfun Yes that makes sense now, thank you. The dB level display in the mixer screen should behave as you say, so this does suggest a fault. Assuming you've done a factory initialise and are running the latest firmware, my first guess would be that it's faulty/dirty faders. Maybe something was spilt over those last two faders, but either way, some good quality switch cleaner might help. Deoxit is the 'goto' cleaner, and they have a variant containing lubricant which is specifically for faders. If you don't already have any, the spray cans are very expensive and the amount is probably overkill, but they do sell smaller/cheaper quantities in tubes. Or you can look for an alternative make.... but NOT WD-40! Second guess is that it's a loose or tarnished cable connection inside the machine, especially if the machine is very old or is second-hand with an unknown history, in which case re-seating/cleaning them might help. I would not advise taking it apart though, unless you are competent at handling delicate and static-sensitive circuitry. I've know a few people who have done more damage this way. Good luck, and keep us posted.

Thanks Phil, it is logical that there may have been a spillage as the two faders are next to each other. Also I noticed yesterday that the levels vary when I tap near them on the surface of the machine. I will contact a local electronics repair chap I know of I think rather than risking it myself! I will let you know. Thanks again.

@howiplaystuff1530 Hi Simon, glad the videos are useful. Just to clarify, when you say the levels fluctuate, which meter bars do you mean? The ones on tracks 29/30 & 31/32, or the L/R ones at the far right? If you mean the former, these are signals direct from the recorded tracks, and the track faders are not meant to control these so having them fully up will make no difference anyway.

@purplezoid1 Haha, yes it can seem a bit daunting at first, and if Tascam had provided an option to clear or retain song settings when creating a new song, there would be no need for these shenanigans... but once you've created a template, it really is a piece of cake to create new songs in a guaranteed state from then on. Make sure you download the manuals for both the Model 12 and the DP machine so you can compare features before deciding. The Model series is aimed at a different market so some features included with the DP have to be done using a computer with the Model 12. Good luck, and hope you find the right machine for you.

@soulrobotics What a great idea! I'd never heard of these so thank you for the tip. I've had a few connection glitches with conventional breadboards so will definitely add a few perma boards to the spares box.

@DavidCookeZ80 You're right David, thank you. I did try similar methods but couldn't get them to work with the solenoid inside the clock housing. Maybe I didn't try hard enough, but may have to revisit those methods once I've thrashed this stepper motor idea to death :)

@@philtipping Fair enough! Out of curiosity, what frequency is the "ringing" on your hall-effect sensors? Is it power-line noise? From the stepper drivers? It might be possible to filter out that frequency leaving a much cleaner signal to work with, or shield the sensors from the source.

Instead of using a single solenoid or motor, what if you had a magnetic disc or a ring of small magnets near the pivot point? Then, you could use multiple small solenoids around it to nudge the pendulum at just the right moments. The cool part is, those solenoids could also act as sensors. When the magnets pass by, they could induce a small current or change in impedance in the solenoid, telling you exactly where the pendulum is. This way, you get both control and feedback from the same components. The pendulum’s weight and motion would smooth out any rough impulses, so even if it’s not perfectly precise, it should still work pretty efficiently. Feels like it could be a clean, low-energy solution-worth a shot?

@DavidCookeZ80 It's about 5MHz. I don't know the exact details of the module schematics apart from it having an LM393 comparator chip, but you're right, it could be power-line noise if its voltage reference is a simple resistance divider on the 5v supply. The latter was coming from a PC USB outlet. The stepper motor was not connected at the time. I didn't try filtering the DC supply, but this could be a better solution than putting a capacitor across the digital output. Either way, that's something to note for the future as I'm changing over to a rotary hall-effect module for the reasons mentioned in the video. Thank you for your input.

@soulrobotics nice idea, thank you :) A stepper motor is effectively the same thing; a ring of electro-magnets, except the motor has a bonus of a 'free' axle with bearings. I was thinking on similar lines but with a modified stepper motor driver; switching it into 'sense' mode every now and again, but decided the electronic switching was too complicated for me, so went with external sensors. This method is so close to working though so I'm sticking with it for now; am just waiting for the one-way clutch bearing to arrive (expected in January). I've already used the rotary hall-effect sensors for the clock hands (see earlier videos), so I think these are the way forwards. They will remove any ambiguity with deducing where the pendulum is, and the one-way clutch will remove any delays with the driver mechanism. Fingers crossed :)

@chuckinwyoming8526 that's an ambitious project Chuck, but well done! Nice to get away from micro-computers sometimes and back to basics :) Hope to see a video of it soon. Season's greetings to you.

@pinlap3875 thank you for your useful observations. They are certainly still relevant even after 1 year as this is definitely one of those 'slow-burners' :) ... and there may well be a Mark-II if the concept proves ok. Yes, the wear on those tubes is a concern. I don't have a lathe so am at the mercy of what tubing I can buy. These were the only ones I could find at the time so will do as you advise and keep the loading as small as possible. The logic for placing the seconds hand closest was that it would be the one rotating the most so would maybe wear quicker, but they can be changed around easily if required. Some good ideas re. balancing, so thank you for taking the time. Season's greetings to you.

​@@philtipping, I reckon those long running projects keep the grey matter fresh - I'm all for it, and admire your adeptness with the sort of engineering I've always found challenging. I've started tinkering with embedded projects this year, and I think that's going to be a very slow burn 😅. Your interesting problem has been making my gears turn, so thanks for taking the time to share it. You know what, I've been coming at this with clock purism - sorry! All I think you need to do is make sure the tubes don't touch each other, and you're golden, because you don't need them to... With likely weights of hands I don't think it would be hard to make this or a future version have no chance of friction due to no contact... The tldr is minimise the unsupported shaft length, and compensate for the stickout you can't escape by increasing the tube diameter and/or spacing to reduce the deflection or increase the space between the tubes (they don't need to be closely fitting at all due to your ball bearings), and don't worry too much about the things I mentioned before. I've reasoned it out here, in case it's useful (and please do sense check what I've said). I had been thinking about wear and bearing pressure, risk of galling when two alu surfaces rub together under load (but what load, really?), and then wondered if without that extra bearing on the hand end if they'd ever actually touch at all? FWIW, here's my train of thought: Each tube/shaft is well constrained with two roller bearings. The portion that sticks out is essentially a cantilever beam - I remember being taught it (and very nearly failing) in mechanics, but in spite of that it should be possible to calculate how much deflection to expect, and design something that deflects less than the gap between the tubes - no contact, no friction, no oil, no extra bearings, etc. The maths if it interests you (bear in mind I nearly failed this decades ago!!) is that: (a) deflection is proportional to the stickout cubed. Double the stickout, 8x deflection. You can see how reducing the unsupported length a little rapidly stiffens up the beam - think twanging a ruler on a desk... (b) deflection is inversely proportional to *_I_* - the modulus of intertia (this was where they lost me decades ago), but basically the bit you need is that for a tube that makes deflection inversely proportional to the tube's (outer radius^4 - inner radius^4). So say we double the inner tube dia ( 3mm with a 1mm wall), doubling to 6mm with a 1mm wall reduces the deflection under load by a factor of about 10, I think! (Think twanging a skirting board on a desk? 😂) (c) deflection is proportional to the weight of your hands, half the weight, half the deflection. So it should be possible to do some mechanical design, fortunately with an online calculator. I wasn't able to find an as simple equivalent with metric units www.meracalculator.com/engineering/deflection-round-tube-beams.php Lets say your middle shaft has a stickout of about 6", has an outer dia of 3mm (0.118"), and a wall thickness of 1mm (0.039") and say the load on the end is about 25g (0.055lb), expected deflection is 0.04" (about 1mm). Reducing the stickout to 5" reduces deflection to 0.023 (0.6mm). Then, increasing the dia to the next size up, say 4mm (0.157"), 1mm (0.039") wall, then deflection reduces to 0.008" (0.2mm)... Getting rid of those end bearings might be a simple as upping the dia of your shafts, bearings & pullies (if indeed just shortening the shafts and reducing the weights of the hands didn't do it), as much of a pain as that might be. So taking your next design, if you find the tube sizes, the unsupported stickout lengths, the weight of the load you plan to put on the end (hands, bosses, screws etc), you should be able to play about with those dimensions such that any tube's deflection is less than the gap between it an the next one, and that way you have minimal clutter in front of your dial, and confidence in your design. Wow, that reached parts of my brain that haven't been refreshed in a while! Thanks for that. Hope you have a great festive break too. Sources: mechanicalc.com/reference/beam-deflection-tables: deflection = (F L^3) / (3 E I) www.calcresource.com/moment-of-inertia-ctube.html: I = (pi/4) (R-outer^4 - R-inner^4)

@pinlap3875 thank you so much for the detailed analysis and taking the time to respond. There's certainly been a lot of head-scratching during this project, but it's great fun and as you say, if it keeps the grey cells active, it can't be a bad thing. I looked for larger tubes but couldn't find a set with matching ID/ODs so had to compromise on this 3-part set, even though I didn't like them being in aluminium. If I had a lathe, I could probably make it much more sturdy, and even eliminate those 2 floating bearings at the front. The support wires won't be visible from ground level, but *I'll* know they're there so it's one of those things which is going to nag me I'm sure :) Good luck with the embedded projects. I started about 8 years ago, although my background/career has always been computers (first mainframes and then networks with PCs & Sun workstations). I bought an STM micro development board with on-board 1MB RAM and touch LCD screen. I didn't get to use all the features as it was overkill for my projects, but it gave me a taste of the minefield of development tools, and forced me to learn the C language; something I never got round to when I was working. I then bought an Arduino board (99p including postage!) to see what all the fuss was about, and loved the atMega chip but not the IDE! I found the IDE hides too much detail from the programmer, so although it's great to encourage newcomers, and hats off to the developers, I think it dumbs it down too much and stifles development (IMO only of course!). I use C with the CodeBlocks IDE for atMega chips and CooCox IDE for STM. Anyway, have a great holiday, and hope to have something positive to report in the new year.

@Neverforget71324 Agreed. Maybe there are other modules which have these built in.

@JesseSchoch yikes, sounds like a plot worthy of Edgar Allan Poe :) Thanks for stopping by Jesse, some great projects on your channel.

@@philtipping some pendulum content also ;) I made a big one using FOC motor control and an optical encoder. Never quite got a control algorithm I liked though.

@JesseSchoch just found it; nice job. There's definitely something fascinating about long, slow pendulum swings :)

@trytolapseit1444 it's not fine if they peak as the signal will be distorted so you need to reduce the signal somehow. Moving the mics away from the source may help but this might increase pickup from other drums or the room ambience. Less sensitive mics can also be used if you have them. If you're stuck with these mics and placement, the simplest/cheapest solution is to buy an attenuator and fit it between the mic and the Tascam. You can buy fixed attenuators which reduce the signal by a specific number of dBs. One other option is to use an external pre-amp which can handle higher signal levels without overloading. By the way, as shown in the videos, there are 2 different overload lights so I'm presuming you mean the input LED above the trim controls is peaking, as opposed to the one above the meter bars in the home screen. If it's only the latter which is peaking, then the Tascam pre-amp is handling the signal ok, so you just need to attenuate the signal within the machine, e.g. by using the dynamic effects and/or the input EQ. Thanks for stopping by.

@wayne3340 well it's a different machine for sure, so download the manual and/or watch some videos to see if it meets your requirements. The Model series (12, 16, 24) can record more inputs simultaneously, as opposed to the limit of 8 on the DP-24 & DP-32, and they all have a much more convenient layout with physical knobs on each channel as opposed to a single set of shared knobs. The Model 12 also has MIDI sync which is lacking on the DP-24SD and DP-32SD variants. But the Model series are aimed at a different market and are not 'port(able)-studios' as several functions are missing, such as editing, and you are expected to use a computer for these. This may or may not be an issue for you depending on your requirements. There's more information about the pros & cons of both machines on the Tascam forum. Good luck, and hope you find a suitable solution.

@philtipping Thank you Phil

@davidleary5639 The Tascam machine can only operate as a master, so any other devices must be able to act as slaves. According to the AW16G manual, it can act as a slave using MTC (MIDI Time Code), so it looks like you can sync them together as long as the MIDI sync box you choose can handle MTC. As mentioned in the video and in the description, MTC is more complex than basic 'Midi Clock' so not all devices can handle this.

Thats brilliant I can do it then .Thank you for your advice .

@briandecker8403 thank you Brian.

@wayne3340 I feel your frustration, but the machine is a complete recording studio in a box and doesn't come with a recording engineer so you have to bite the bullet. You could always try the Step-by-Step guide to get you off the ground without getting bogged down with the details: www.philizound.co.uk/freebies/dp24-32/dp24-32.html You can return to the videos later as & when you want more background info. As a last resort, sell it and put the money towards an alternative recorder :) Good luck.

@oleksandrgryshkov6919 Assuming the HDD was working ok before you took it apart, it may just be something you didn't re-connect properly. You may have missed one of the ribbon cables, or forgot to re-fasten the locks on the cable connectors. The HDD connector definitely has a lock mechanism so you may have inserted it but forgotten to clamp it in place. If this doesn't work, the disc itself may be faulty, but it's a bit of a coincidence that it failed at this exact time. The service manual has details about a 'service menu' for checking the machine, including the HDD, although this may not pinpoint the cause. If the unit powers up, you could try plugging in a computer via USB to check if it can 'see' the HDD, although this method is still using the internal connectors so won't show where the fault it. The only way to eliminate the HDD itself is to remove it and connect it directly to a computer using an adapter. There are cheap adapters available which convert this type of HDD edge connector to USB. If this works ok, you can then spend more time checking all the connections. Good luck, and let us know if you find anything.

@XHALE303 The USB socket expects a 'host' to communicate so a simple memory stick won't work in that slot. A computer normally handles this role when connected, but there may be an intelligent gadget out there which can act as a host and transfer data to/from a memory stick, but I've not checked. Another possibility is to find an sd-to-usb adapter, if they exist. There are some clever adapters out there, such as floppy disc emulators, so might be worth searching. I would be doubtful if it would work in practice though , even if they did exist, as the machine is quite fussy about sd-card speeds so the adapter would probably need internal memory buffers. You could try asking on the Tascam forum in case someone has already found a solution. Thanks for stopping by, and let us know if you find anything.

@@philtipping Thanx. Well anything, i found all your Tascam vids to see if it fits my needs. 😀Good job, subbed.👍

@rm4po4 It doesn't help that there's a lot of misinformation about these on social media. The pre and post just refer to where the send signal comes from. They have no affect on whether the effect is recorded or not. If the send signal comes *before* the track fader (PRE), the send signal will always be the full track level as recorded, regardless of the fader position. So if you alter the fader, the direct (dry) track signal will change (as normal), but the amount of signal going to the send path will always be the full amount. If you are using send-1 and the internal effect, say for reverb, this means you will always hear the reverb regardless of the fader position... even if you turn the fader right down, the reverb will still be heard. If the send signal comes *after* the fader (POST), the amount of send signal *will* be affected by the fader. This means the fader now controls both the level of the track playback signal and the amount going to the send effect. Assuming the same scenario as before, as you alter the fader, both the direct (dry) signal and the amount of reverb will change in step with each other. If you lower the fader completely, the direct signal and the reverb will disappear. The reason for having both PRE & POST options is to give you flexibility, e.g. some effects such as reverb, sound more realistic when you're adjusting the fader if you use POST, whereas if you use the send signal for monitoring purposes, the PRE signal may be more useful. It's completely up to you and your workflow. If you're the same Jason who just sent a donation, many, many thanks. It's much appreciated :)

@rm4po4 thank you Jason.

@DavidRichards-lh2hw I think mine came with a trimmer tool, but not sure as it was long time ago. One old trick is to cadge an old/broken plastic knitting needle (easy if there's a knitter in the family!) and file it down to fit the slot. Very handy for tuning radios etc. back in the day :)

@Earthstein you're too kind... but feel free to spread the word :) :)

There are many things to check. Is it running the latest firmware? Have you done a factory initialise? Are you using an approved sd-card? Does the power cycling occur even when it is just sat there idle with no access to the sd-card? If you've definitely eliminated the PSU or loose connections, it may be an issue with your mains power, so try another outlet. Is there any pattern to the problem? Can you match it to other devices switching on/off in the same property, e.g. fridge, heating etc? Maybe try it at a different location to eliminate any issues like this? If all else fails, it must be an internal problem, in which case an internal inspection will be required. If it's under warranty, contact the vendor. You could take a look inside yourself, but I would *only* do this if you are competent with delicate and static-sensitive circuits... you are very likely to cause more damage if you just poke around at random without knowing what you are doing. You could also search the Tascam forum for similar issues and/or post the question there. Good luck, and please follow-up with the details if you manage to fix it.

@davemoore7442 thanks Dave, but already tried that and couldn't get it to work using simple mechanics. If you can sketch out a design, I'll take another look.

@steveokane9478 Hi Steve, it's a good question so not dumb at all :) You're right in that whatever noise remains in the signal, even if you can't see it on the meters, will be boosted if you increase the gain later on. The 'threshold' control governs the level of signal below which the gain reduction takes place, and the 'suppression' control governs the amount of gain reduction, so it's the latter which governs the final noise floor level. I haven't checked how low this will go, but if it's an issue with you... and I would actually try it in practice first before presuming that it really is an issue... you never know, the additional noise may not be as bad as you thought :), try and adjust your gains *before* the noise suppressor so you have a decent reading on the meters and you won't need to increase this very much later on. There are various ways of adjusting the recording level depending on the source, e.g. the trim control, moving mic position, external mic pre-amp, adjusting output levels from synths etc. One trick to get more gain from less sensitive mics (assuming you can't get any closer to it) is to use the dynamic compressor effect without any compression. It has a gain control so you can use this as an extra boost. Unfortunately you can't easily daisy-chain the dynamic effects in series with each other so you can't add the compressor and noise suppressor in series. However, you *can* do it using the trick shown in videos 14A & 14B, or a simpler way may be to just use the noise suppressor in the Insert(Guitar) effect instead. This can be applied to the track either during recording, or afterwards via bounce or mixdown. Just as an afterthought, I would personally only use noise suppression as a last resort (or only use a minimal amount) due to the sometimes unnatural sound it imparts if not used correctly. If you can remove/reduce the background noise *before* the signal reaches the machine, you'll get much better results. Btw, some great music on your channel :) Nice clear lyrics and great playing.

@ripleycrow Finding differences when playing back the master file is a common problem and is usually because you are not comparing the same things. First thing to check is that you really are listening to the raw master file properly on the DP machine. There are videos in this tutorial which explain why you must be in mastering mode in order to hear the master file, and how important it is to turn off any mastering effects when you play it back. Once you are sure you are listening to the raw master file (and it sounds how you expect it to be), make sure you really are transferring that file to the computer. Again, there is confusion on social media about which file is the correct one to transfer. There are usually 2 files with very similar names so it's crucial you pick the correct one (without the 'z' in the filename). Another gotcha is finger trouble on the computer, such as not copying the master file to the computer properly and getting mixed up with which file you are playing on the computer. It's very easy to inadvertently play a different version of the file from previous copy attempts. You also need to make sure your media player or DAW on the computer is playing the stereo file correctly without adding any effects, panning or EQ. Some players/sound cards add EQ & effects by default. Lastly, you need to check you are using the same speakers or headphones on the computer which you used on the DP machine. There can be further issues here if you are using adaptors for headphones; some users have used mono adaptors by mistake, others have had faulty adaptors. Stereo issues are usually caused by cabling or headphone adaptors which are cancelling out the left and/or right sides of the stereo signal. Cabling issues include connecting a stereo headphone socket to a balanced mono input socket, or vice versa. Both sockets are TRS but the signals are used differently, and if you connect one to the other without using the correct type of plug and/or splitter cable, you will get strange stereo-related problems. As you can see, there are plenty of traps if you are not careful, which can result in you not comparing like with like. Bottom line is to be methodical and check each stage before moving to the next. Let us know how you get on.

@philtipping Thank you for replying! I appreciate it a lot. This issue is still puzzling. I checked again to make sure that I used the correct file when I uploaded the track. I don't use a DAW at all and only download the completed track directly off of the SD card onto my computer, then distribute it directly, without any modification from its completed state off of the Tascam. I've been recording and releasing music with this machine for seven years and haven't run into this issue before. I record multiple drum pieces on tracks 1-5, then bounce them to 23/24 without using any panning or stereo differentation. Somehow, that drum track is just silent on some devices. It would make more sense if it was missing on the left or right side because of a stereo issue, but the drum track will be there on my headphones or while streaming over Bluetooth, but will be completely omitted during playback on a cellphone. It seems like it could still be stereo related, perhaps? I just can't pin it down.

@ripleycrow aah I think I misunderstood. I thought you were saying it sounded ok on the Tascam, but not on the computer, but you're saying that *after* transferring the file to the computer and then playing it on other devices, the drums sound ok on some devices but not on others? This confirms you transferred the correct file and that there is no problem with the Tascam machine (although see last paragraph). So it must be an issue with those specific devices; how the file is accessed by them, or the connection to the device's headphones/speakers. I'm not familiar with using Bluetooth links or cellphones so can't offer much help I'm afraid. It is odd that just the drums are affected though. I was going to suggest it's an EQ setting on the playback device, but I would have thought you would have heard at least *some* drum sounds, albeit quieter. The only other thing I can think of which cancels sounds completely is out-of-phase signals, so maybe the left & right sides of the drums have been recorded out of phase with each other, and they get cancelled out when playing back on devices which mix the left & right sides into a mono signal. The devices which do not mix them together sound ok, although they may still sound a bit odd. I would double-check the Tascam settings; there's a phase invert option on each input and each track, so one of these may have been switched on by accident. Any settings are carried forwards into new songs, so it may have been a setting from a previous song. That's why I suggest using a 'reset' template song in video 2. Good luck.

@@philtipping Oh, WOW! You've got it. One side of track 23/24 was flipped out of phase. Goodness, I can't believe I've been troubleshooting this for days and didn't catch that. You're a wizard, sir. Thanks for taking the time to help. I appreciate it immensely!

@ripleycrow that's great news :) Thanks for the follow-up, and hope it hasn't affected too many songs. Best wishes.

@JeffDuPonte Hi Jeff, thanks for stopping by. The easiest way to start over is to create a new song and then, if you are short of space on the sd-card, delete the old song using the Song menu. The only catch is the fact that any song settings from your old song are carried forwards into the new song, so as you say, it's not quite as simple. A quick way of clearing out the settings is to first create the new song, and then do a factory initialise (which is in Menu, Preferences). This will not delete any existing songs from the card, but it will guarantee all song settings are reset to the factory defaults. This video 2 shows an alternative method which avoids doing a factory reset, as the latter also resets other settings such as screen brightness and auto-power off, but if you are happy with the factory defaults for these, then just do a factory reset each time for now. You can see the reasoning behind Tascam's design as sometimes you really *do* want to use the same settings, e.g. track assignments, fx settings, pan settings etc. for a new song, as you want to retain the overall 'sound' settings, but it would have been nice if they'd given us an option to reset them or not. The alternative method I suggest in the video just creates a dummy blank song which contains all the settings you want to start out with. It can be just the factory settings or it can be anything you want. Once that dummy song (I call it a template) is saved, and ideally protected so you don't accidentally alter it in future, all you have to do to create a new song is to load the template song first, and then *immediately* create your new song. The new song will inherit the settings from the template song, so it will be in exactly the state you intended. You can then start recording and processing as normal, and all changes will apply to this new song. If you really want a quick 'get off the ground quickly' guide showing which buttons to press with no background information, the PDF Step-By-Step guide my help you. It's available from my website here www.philizound.co.uk/freebies/dp24-32/dp24-32.html It also describes the exact process to delete all those marker points.... and possibly more importantly, the different ways of positioning the transport which explains *why* the 'intuitive' method does not always work.

@@philtipping This is incredibly generous of you to take the time to help me. Thank you!

@ronstudd3788 thank you Ron, much appreciated.

@KountryCuz1 thank you Danny and nice to hear from you after all these years. Nice to see your channel still going strong. Good luck with your lap steel projects. You make it look so easy :)

@Xanaduum yes it's been a gripe for many users over many years, but there's no sign of the feature re-appearing. I've never had the older version so don't know if there were unresolved issues with it which may have caused them to abandon it... or maybe they just read the market differently? As far as I know, even the MIDI version can only be used as a master device, so for me, an external sync box is an acceptable compromise. Thanks for stopping by. That's a fascinating channel you have with all those art forms; it's going to take some exploring :)

@@philtipping thanks. Yes I just really use the tascams so I can avoid using screens until I really need to, but having the midi built in helps. I think, tascam and the other brands just considered mainly guitarists using these things, and for more midi functionality that people would just use computers, not realising that not everyone wants to stare at yet another screen. Although there is the Tascam Model 12 which has in and out midi sockets, but they retail for about £500.

@collinstanton sorry for delay Collin, have been on holiday. Yes that EMX-1 is a real keeper :)