You should show the detail and let the guy talk. No need to see him for so long.

People think that the term "steel is real" is just a passing phrase, its been used since the 70's when aluminum bikes stated to be popular. My 1963 Carlton Flyer with its 25mm (1 inch) tires rides with the same smooth characteristics. Love the channel , keep up the inspirational work.

Let Cools paint it too!

(More than) a bit late to the party with a couple of things about wool. If you're washing it by hand try washing it in shampoo; it's basically damaged hair, so shampoo helps soften it. Also, sheep have been bred over the millennia so that their hair never stops growing; if they're not shorn the hair will continue to grow, year after year, and then you have KZbin videos of rescued escaped sheep with 90 lb. fleeces. In that way shearing is necessary for the sheep's health. HTH.

If it’s not to late you should go RAW clear coat so you can see your workmanship.

And you got Roth Metalflake in Fremont, Henry. Paint it like the Beatnik Bandit and call it the Wildflake. And I dig your love for your lady. Making a bunch of Ms. Cools stickers is like O man, the rest of us need to step up our game. 😀

love ms. cools.

I have always wondered do tubing manufacturers treat the tubes with anti-corrosion coatings or are the internal walls of the tubes just bare? At .7 to .45 of a millimeter it does not take much.

Way back in the day we use to use Dupont Imron. It's still around, but it is nasty, nasty stuff both on people and equipment. Most auto paint shops don't even want to have anything to do with it anymore.

Nice to see Ms. Cools using her fenders. Looking good.

Everything is so green! Quite different from what is going in SoCal. Have you considered anodization of your bike frame? It would certainly look different, but if you got the right colour, you could then clear coat it with some spray can paint, or just leave it as is.

Well done. You seem so proud. Your thanks speech to your helpers along the way was almost like an Oscar speech. Can’t wait to see the rest of the process and I’m sure the finished product will be stunning.

Happy New Year guys. Really like your gravel bike-yes,tyre pressure is,in my opinion most important consideration with large volume tyres…of course depending on various factors. Discovered this for myself several years ago. Always had tyres overinflated on MTB-then one day riding my gravel bike 650x47 and rear tubeless tyre deflated ,rather than stop in the rain I carried on home. Super comfy ride and was down below 20 psi. Look forward to your finished frame. Last year I stripped an old Argos 1980 531 frame..carefully prepared and sprayed with shake can auto paint-Terrible finish! Decent spray gun would have been far better.

Ms Cools pimped out mug is amazing-balls good. I was thinking purple while watching before you trip to the paint shop. Ok well animal skins are rare LOL.

Finding your color of choice in the wild, outside on an existing item is always an adventure. 🚴🏼🚴🏼🚴🏼🫡

As you profess to know little about paint I can give some gentle advice, Paint comes in different flavours from water colours which are simple pigments based in water through to 2k Auto paint which has more chemicals in it than massive chemical soup thing and will kill you as soon as look at you. For 2K (if you value yourself) you'll need a hood that is supplied by a secondary compressor that pushes air through funky and expensive filters, do anything less and you might die, you might be able to get away with a 3M A2B2 filters on a mask if your booth is properly (seriously) vented and you have zero facial hair, otherwise just don't risk it, many DIY'ers will try to tell you otherwise, but hey, professor facebook blah blah. I'm from the UK and here we have companies that still develop cellulose which is a stand alone 1 part paint with no fear of death, the current best is HMG M99, it's great stuff, polishable cellulose within 12 hours and sets like rock and is very chip resistant, I don't feel the need to use anything else, if I did I'd use other paint systems like acrylic I'd then have the 2k clear coat applied by pro's in their paint shop. If you use cellulose you can cut back runs and thick layers and still polish to your desired finish and by my reckoning painting tubes is more difficult than flat surfaces, overspray is a fact of life until you are very experienced at spraying round stuff so get it as wet as you dare and be happy, tomorrow you can get 3000 grit paste and a rag and mend it. Happy painting.

You’re ok but Ms. Cools is the best.

Spray.bike 👍🏻

Great stuff as usual. And that Valspar color sample book at the end!.. are those available to mere mortals? Also, that clean fliparoo side arm profile shot of your bike while riding at 2:10 was well presented, borderline magic!

What a great idea , to complete the DIY bike project. Can't wait to see the color .Happy New Year . KB

I would be happy to talk to you about the different types of paint and applications. Been painting cars and bikes since 1970. Not sure how to get your email address.

Where's the neon paint section please 😂. I hope you and Ms. Cools are safe from the fires.

I got powder coat back in 2019 for about $120

"Old Shovel" KZbin channel uses some rattle-can paint products made specifically for bikes and has phenomenal results

I wonder if low trail designs are more likely to shimmy. I had a Miyata 610 that would shimmy at high speed.

I am interested in the Jersey. If it’s not too late 🚴🏻

I hope at the end of this you'll create a video of your thought process regarding geometry choices. Your past frames, vintage or modern bike geometry charts you looked at, input from Mr. Fitz, etc.

Oh wow. I had the idea of making a rando bag from scratch recently and documenting the process. Similar to your idea, learning to make bags is cheaper than buying bags . . . or frames. Just watched this tonight and confirmed it’s a solid idea. I loved you talking through the choices and the why. Thanks for sharing. Would be wild to meet up in the Bay Area and pedal around our creations someday!

Really dug the intro...and seeing you journey on here. You embrace the 'why' behind each technique, and I always appreciate that. People say being a safe driver is 90% attitude and similarly, I think your headspace is perfect for this bike project and learning a new skill. Thanks for sharing.

"I tawt I taw a Puddy Tat."

IMO, you're getting your parts hotter than necessary. You're holding the flame in one place too long as you prepare to add filler metal. If you go back and look at John Fitz torch movement you'll see he is constantly moving the flame. Even when he's adding filler metal.

You should frame this template when you're done.

I’ve often fantasized about building my own frame and have even looked into taking classes. As you’ve demonstrated here, the process has many twists and turns, but you’ve worked through the problems magnificently. Well done! Can’t wait to see you ride that beauty.

👏 Fantastic job! You nailed the hardest part which is getting the rear triangle aligned right without having to resort to filing the dropouts. Lovely work too on the tops of those seatstays with a traditional wraparound design. I always put the bottle bosses in before joining the tubes together worried that otherwise I won't be able to fit the drill in there but I'm sure you will figure it out! There is some controversy in framebuilding circles around whether the SS bridge needs a larger fillet or if you can just flow some silver in there so will be interesting to see what you do.

Bunch of BS. Mountain biking started in Crested Butte and thats where the HOF was founded. This garbage about California and moving it doesn't change facts or history. It's all a farce and more WOKE BS like tearing downvstatues and renaming military bases whenever your side gets power to wield and abuse. These were the people that took their ball and ran home after a hard tackle or one too many goals. Ridiculous

Chapeau!

Verry nice! 👍

Fantastic. Really well done. Yes Miss Cools,Congratulations. Am very interested to know the approx cost of all your equipment needed for this project,plus cost of frame materials. You have created a beautiful bike frame there Henry. Respect.

For cold setting, and you're welcome to take this idea with a pinch of salt, I use an aluminium yard rule, the sort that costs 10-15 bucks on fleaBay, then buy a second hand internal set of dividers/calipers (the things that look like lobster pincers) Now unbolt said calipers and then bolt a half of the calipers to the end of the rule,, typically where the hole is put to hang up the rule. Now you have a tool that when placed against tubes of the same diameter will give you a parallel datum you can measure. Example, using you Vernier's you measure the rear drop out spacing as 129mm, you want/expected 126mm, 126mm /2 = 63mm, on the non drive side the caliper touches the drop out, on the drive side, after measuring, it's 3mm out, bend the drive side only. It's always worked for me, remember the tubes must be like for like. Also drop out alignment tools are mandatory, I use Cyclus Tools ones because they give virtually every possible combination of width, just well designed kit.

very nice job, can't wait to see it finished

The satisfaction of knowing you built the bike you're riding will be next level. Can't wait for the finished frame ready for assembly. How do they chrome the lugs? Be well.

What a great project! Looking forward to seeing more of it as you progress with it 👍

Did you aim for a certain bottom bracket height, or did it just emerge from the chainstay lug angle in the rear BB? A track frame might have a higher bb height, a pure touring frame quite a bit lower. Also wheel size might vary requiring a higher or lower BB, indeed the length of chainstay will also affect the height to some degree.

You're not using premade seat stay ends?? Looks cool. I used a 135mm Axle width and I made my chain stays 46cm. I still needed to dimple for tires wider than about 40mm.

What is a fillet brazed frame?🤔

WOW ! Happy New Year, Ya'all. HW, I'm totally impressed with this build. Only someone with an engineering background , could do this project . Just can't wait to see the finished bike and you riding . Thanks. KB

Nice job Henry!

A new era. Maybe I will ride a wildeberry frame one day :)

Born in a shed and ready to shred.

Nice job so far. I like to drill the water bottle mounts before joining tubes. I don't have a jig or guide so I drill a pilot hole first. Then I use a jewelers round file to move the center if I need to, and usually I do. Once the slot that is made has a center where it is supposed to be, I drill out to the final 1/4 inch size. This works to place to any hole on the frame precisely, as long as you use a smaller pilot hole and you have no other way of consistently properly placed holes. I usually cut away the bridge cast into the chainstay sockets to later put in another bridge made from a seatstay cutoff. A fender mount can go on this bridge. I drill holes at the seatstays where brake bridges join, so there are hidden de-fluxing passages. You can drill drain holes at the inside seatstay scallops on the dropouts.