@@johnrupple4318 happy it was helpful. You got this!

As far as I’m aware no. Don’t use drywall screws though, make sure they are actually screws. Drywall screws are meant for only drywall and have a very weak shear strength.

Pocket screws and biscuits

I'm happy you enjoyed it! Working on that video right now so it will be coming very soon!

I don’t think it would hurt anything should work great.

I’ve never done that on a basement wall but it would a better seal to the basement floor. So good idea I’d say.

You are correct. I should always use proper safety measures to prevent any possible injury.

​@@buildingwithbobby ❤

I think interior non load bearing walls will be fine without the jack studs. But yes normally king stud, jack stud, header and cripples all apply to door and window openings.

I have never heard of that. I guess in theory it would allow water to escape. I think the bottom plate still would get wet though.

Learn what you can and you be that friend!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks stay tuned for more to come!

As far as I can tell as long as you are in the center of the joist with the nail I don’t think there is an issue. However I can’t say for sure. I do know 8d nails 2 1/2” long are used however.

Sounds like it would work out just fine!

@buildingwithbobby It also looks nice to use white stain on the basement rafters. You don't need to paint the entire board but just the first four inches. Stain the entire board if there is light fixture perhaps. I think this method uses less material and possibly less labor. The basement waterproof paint is great at reducing humidity and dampness as well as reflecting light and making it brighter.

I’m not sure what you mean? Clamp them together line it up safety first make your cut. There isn’t much more how to than that.

I’ve never thought of it that way, but I do measure from different way on a lot of my furniture pieces to make sure it all correct. So yes that makes a lot of sense!

Forgot to mention, my basement is above ground - split foyer.

It’s not going to hurt anything to use a water proofer like that. That paint goes into the pores of the block and actually fills them instead of just a top coat sealer that stays on the surface. My home is 130 years old made out of block and I sealed some of the walls before framing and I didn’t seal others just because of cost. I have had no issues on either of them. As long as it’s not damp or anything throughout the year I’d say you’re fine either way.

Those are some saw horses

You’re ready to go then ha!

@@buildingwithbobby hahaha just need skill and a little more time. But your videos on this make it look so easy !! Thank you.

Words are words ha they work just the same ha!

For sure! Thanks for reaching out

That is a great tip!

I appreciate the comment! I love feedback like this because it helps me to create better content. I have a NEW video coming soon showing how to Frame a Bedroom Wall and that video is going to be looong and more detailed.

Thanks bud!

Np have a great day

Nice good job bud!! That’s awesome

I’ll check it out

It shouldn’t it was insulated there on the knee wall.

For a basement you can but I don’t think it’s necessary. That’s for insulation and creating a good seal between the foundation and bottom plate. So it won’t hurt anything but it’s not going to gain too much I don’t think. Just a little more seal to the floor.

Yea man!

Uh I guess I don’t understand. If there is a leak anything you put in will be damaged yes. I guess you could paint everything before you put it in to help make the damage less, but that seems like a ton of extra work. As for the tile you can tile directly on drywall. I would though make sure your basement’s humidity is at a stable level or the drywall under the tile could get mushy and then it’ll come apart on you.

@@buildingwithbobby Sorry I wasn't clear.. When I was shopping for new house.. I have seen many new house with finish basement.. definitely it will looks nice. very clean and complete... But I always had a concern.. how does the actual basement wall looks like.. Any cracks, sign of leaks.. etc... No way to inspect behind drywall. what is good option for finishing your basement without covering your walls with drywall? I had house 5 years back. Partially finished basement. And they used brick template for concrete pour. And that left the wall with brick pattern.. Very nice idea. You can just paint that and it will/should look nice and clean. My actual question was.. Can we title directly on the concrete wall? Or will there be issues with moisture? Appreciate you taking your time out and replying.

Yes you are correct there really is no good way to see behind the finished framed up wall. That is just a risk you take covering it up. As long as your home was built properly and you take the proper precautions to protect from those concerns you should be fine. I have never come across tile directly on the foundation, I would be concerned with moisture for sure.

Good deal!

In your basement? I’m sure technically those things would be beneficial in one way or another, but if you’re adding walls to an empty space then none of your new walls are structural or load bearing. They are just there to give the area a shape basically. The renderings and stuff could help with plumbing and electrical maybe. Code and stuff for your area may be a bit more strict than mine. If it was my basement I wouldn’t get all that done no.

@@buildingwithbobby Yes, it’s for my basement, and although I’m pretty handy, I’ve hired a framer and purchased the wood, it’s just the design we’re not hundred percent sure about, and where to place what and what works best for the space. We have a floor plan that someone else designed, but wanting to get some better ideas and change a few things. thought the service they provide would help with all the small details. Not sure about submitting for permits, or having inspections, I will definitely get electrical inspection to make sure everything is safe. It would be great if there was a service that someone could look at a floorplan and pictures or a walk-through video to give design ideas.

I’ve seen those systems before yep. For the framing I’d say as long as you’re not directly over the channel you’d be fine. Even if you came out past the concrete foundation enough that half the bottom plate was past the channel I think it’d be fine. If you think about it the wall isn’t really supporting anything other than the drywall. So it shouldn’t push too hard on the channel regardless. As for the insulation I can’t say I know exactly what’s ok or not. If it’s like the systems I’ve seen before they didn’t really fix the leak they just gave the water a place to go instead of your floor. That being said as long as the insulation doesn’t get wet it should be fine whatever you use. The moisture should be contained behind the barrier.

I have the perimeter drainage system in a trench under the concrete as well, with a poly liner that runs up the concrete wall. I false-framed about a 1/2" out from the poly liner up the wall. To attach the sill plate I used liquid nail since you can't penetrate the concrete floor above the trench drain. I secured the top plate with nails as usual. It's sturdy enough to hold drywall.

I’m not sure that one is better than the other to be honest. If you’re putting a subfloor type thing I’d run it square, if your just finishing the wall and adding carpet I don’t really think it’ll matter and you’ll be the only one to know.

Absolutely helps out a lot! The project video will make a come back!

Thank you much!

Thank you much!

It was so messy ha. I ended up capping the bottom with a box and putting a shop vac to the box to catch as much of the dust as I could!

All the best for this table ha

@@buildingwithbobby 👽

Agreed. It’s been awhile since I have done that but it does give a much better finish.

No real reason, we just went that route. Nail guns are faster but they both get the job done. Nails have better strength in some areas and screws do in others, they will both do just fine in a basement wall though.

@@buildingwithbobby I'm about to start on my basement, which did you think would be easier/faster, screws with a high-quality impact driver, or nails with a framing hammer? A nail gun isn't an option for me

Noted! Thank you

It is a CMT 6 1/2” 40 tooth blade if I remember correct.

That is so that you have half the 2x to attach the perpendicular wall to, and half the 2x for drywall. Basically it’s meant to make sure you have somewhere for drywall to attach. I think it’s called a California corner if I remember correct. There are other ways of doing corners this is just quick easy and works great.