Thanks for the tip! Luckily I have not yet had that problem, as these tiles are fairly thick and the glue used on them is mostly limited to the glue holding the ruins in place. These ones still sit flat after a few months but I will keep this in mind in the future

Thank you! Skulls make every chaos warmachine better

Very true, I hadn't even thought of that!

I should definitely try that next time! I agree, I usually avoid using caulk due to the cost when making single pieces of terrain, but for a project like this that makes several pieces I reckon I could be satisfied with how much gets used and not too sore if there's any unused portion forgotten and left to dry

You're right, I wasn't even thinking about orks with this thing! I actually really love some grot artillery, it may get cut in half (thirds?) and used as the platforms for a few mek guns.

@@green_zebra_crafting That would be pretty cool

Thank you!

Curling isn't even limited to PVA, the problem isn't necessarily the glue but rather what you're glueing... anything absorbent can warp, be it paper products, wood, or probably certain foams. One fix I have found with thin wood (another hobby hack - use craft store wooden nickels as mini bases) is to lightly soak it in water & then give it a thin rubdown of clear gorilla glue on both sides (1 at a time, but apply to side 2 while side 1 is 1/2-1/4 dry). The gorilla glue lacks tackiness making it less messy, but also lets's you apply weight directly to the bases part way thru without it sticking to whatever heavy thing you're using. Once dry, the nickels stay flat but won't warp on additional applications of PVA, super, or gorilla glue.

I knew I was forgetting another way to solve this problem! It's not a method I've ever tried myself, thank you!

That's usually true, luckily I'm one of the dozens of people who don't play tournaments

Love that! I'm a big fan of scale military models and I'm actually working on some 1/35 sci-fi figure kitbashes right now... admittedly they're pretty low on the priority list to get finished though. My second baneblade kitbash actually uses the same main tank that this one did, but with the top bit of an M3 melded into the hull

I've done that before too, I need to get better at it for sure I always make it too thick and end up fighting the stuff. It ends up being a cost/time benefit equation- If I spend a few extra bucks on the spray I get to the next steps faster and with less frustration.

That is another great thing with these, I've done zero damage to any of the nice hardwood in my house banging it on walls while moving it.

Well the savings of a 17 dollar toy vs a 170 dollar official baneblade are huge even if you need to spend a few more bucks to finish it up- and having a lot of the extra bits on hand is just part of being a hobbyist anyway- I didn't need to buy a land raider for those sponson weapons, I had them in the bits box from the last raider kit I built. The one tube of modeling putty will last me probably years, the yard sale sign was 2 bucks and will be used in several projects, the foam was an offcut from making my game table, the chaos bits are again from the bits box since I've been playing chaos for years and don't throw a ton of sigils on any one model. The list goes on but this build really cost me less than 30 bucks including the materials that I'll keep using beyond this build. Not to mention, sometimes the bash isn't only about saving money- sometimes you just want a unique model.

It's really something, isn't it? I have to assume that it's part of their long term recruiting strategy... make the army cool and fun for kids so it's easier to convince them to join up as teens. The army also used to have officially licensed paintball gun, the innards were all Tippmann brand so they were good reliable markers and you could get them at a decent discount if you didn't mind buying the version that had army logos all over it

Awesome, thank you!

Thank you!

It does happen quickly. I used one of my son's broken old tanks for the top part of the hull on my other baneblade kitbash

Yeah painting is certainly my least favorite part of the hobby, I'm always looking for the best way to paint something "good enough, quickly" so I can move on to the next game or kitbash

Thank you! I also used to dig through the dakkadakka forums a lot for this sort of thing

That has also largely been my experience with any GW or forgeworld resin, sadly. But luckily the opportunities for kitbashing and modelling from other sources are endless!

That's so true, I've done a few conversions that I just wasn't sure about until I got that first base coat of paint down. Thank you!

Yeah sometimes these projects get a bit pricier than expected, but hey at least it got you something unique instead of paying that money to get the same baneblade that everyone else puts on a table You're right this would probably ly be great for cast turrets. I'm thinking in the future I'm going to use the foam to build the main blocks of something like a leman russ and then use plasticard/printed parts/the bits box to enclose and embellish it.

@@green_zebra_crafting Hell yeah! My baneblade is a monster in comparison to a vanillablade. Looking forwards to seeing more projects!

Thank you! And that sounds like a great goal. I also usually listen to podcasts or audiobooks during hobby time Having a space to leave your stuff set up to work on makes a monumental change in hobby productivity! Years ago while living in a small apartment I spent far too much time and money setting up a hobby desk that could pack up and stow away into a closet when not in use... but bringing it out and packing it up took up so much of the little hobby time that I had, that I just never bothered.

Thank you!

Thank you! I don't usually put music in and didn't think I had quite balanced it correctly so I'm glad for the feedback

It does help! I've started using fine sandpaper and the like for the same purpose since posting this video, it helps a ton

Never a bad idea to reinforce, though the material is quite resilient (especially in the 2 inch thickness) my primary concern if people are sitting at the table for a long time, would be whether the hinge can hold up to the stress. Luckily I use mine for playing 40k so it's not really a sit-down game where we're leaning on the table. That being said, how much overhang you have between this tabletop and the smaller table that supports it will make a big difference- I wouldn't chance more than a foot of overhang on any one side.

Will do, Thank you!

All hail the greater daemon of fur

Good question! Since I use mine mainly for playing 40k, we're usually standing around the table and not sitting at it leaning into it. I would say that it largely depends on how much overhang you have between this and the smaller table supporting it- This one is about a foot wider than the table that I put it on, and just under 2 feet longer, and I think it's probably a little past the limit of how much overhang you'd want for a table you're sitting at to play a card game for a few hours. A foot or less on each side should be fine

Sounds like a great idea! Might be able to laminate the 'hinge' material between the wood and foam as well, make it a bit more resilient.