Well hi there I had some probs to but as you said no info What i did was i measured the thickness of the inside timber i wanted to cover wich was almost the measurement of eithe side of the angle I put a mark on the topside. Then tilted the saw to it Leftside miter only have left side ,and cut a piece of woot to sit under beith to keep level up agaist the the saws wall then mitered to the lower45 point ,i must add the miter and 45 are the same width of the timber your cutting to give you the exact cut and also the inside measurement is the begining of your mitered edge It is a hand full when you start

Thank for them tips

Clown

Which magnetic bit holder and bit do you use?

You suck.

lets say a fur out wall from a cmu. Do you always screw the back side of the stud? Where have you been brother, always looking for your new vids. Hope all is good

Pro tip: When laying out your track, cut two pieces of track about 6 inch long and rip them down off-center, now place them together over top of another piece of track so they fit snugly then screw them together. Now use that to lay out your track, now you can mark both sides quickly and efficiently.

Cool thanks for the little square trick! few questions, What about the back side, Should I do one side at a time? And , should I screw the top or the bottoms first? I usually laser up the first stud then run my 16's. How much play should the studs have, I don't wanna push on the ceiling.

Get an extension

But where do you keep it?

Very good video

Whatever masta tells us to do we do it

Great tip

I'm from local 675 drywall and acoustics union Toronto, usually this type is hourly vs piece work, and there is no need to produce vs accuracy. if doing pw, then yes. and code requires carrying chanel over 10' high.

👍👍👍👍伟大的

Apprentice….

God dam. He strong as fuk man! I bet he has a big as dik too , no homo.. Juss sayn.. Milwaukee drill, goe tee, tobacco chewing bad ass right there.

Really appreciate the knowledge you pass along! Just a tip when buying framing squares and speed squares, always take the ones you are buying to the Sheetrock stacks and test them out to make sure they in fact are square. I will place the square on the sheet and strike my line, then I flip it 180° (like turning a page in a book) and strike a line over the first line. Any slight deviation in the lines you have a flawed square. You can tune an out of square framing square, but not speeds. Never purchase plastic speed squares.

Thanks so much for sharing your expertise!

I really think you are over thinking the cut. The bottom inside 45° angle will work because you are creating a 90° from the two 45° cuts. By the way, keep making the steel framing videos! Thanks for your content.

What is wrong with marking center?

They could have at least "fire taped" or fire caulked the interior patch.

How much you charge per linear foot? 8’-10’ high walls?

Nice tip. Thanks for sharing.

Tuse knee ,body etc. is good ,but other stuff is meh - sorry. Usually I dont mark fk all ,just roll tape and screw accordingly ,if I have alot of framing I use self locking tape. Also you will see if your stud hits a pipe or something right away and not after you marked 10 studs ,so you can shift. What you show is to much movement to put two screws. Screw 1 side ,go around roll tape and repeat all this jumping back and forth is inificcient ,you do fast by working fast instead of doing job fast and easy on yourself...

Quadrupled his productivity ! That’s the best thing too see from an apprentice

Klein makes a great torpedo 4 strong magnets offset to work with 3 5/8 studs and 6inch. Also they have one with a light. It’s in the electrical tools section at Home Depot and lowes

True journeyman

This is a true journeyman. I like your style.

Sincere, thank you. I done my time in a different trade but love to learn from others who have walked the road before. For those who 'know it all" I'm reminded of the old joke: So one guy says, I'm 10 years on the job, you can't teach me anything! The other guy says, NO! You've had one years experience 10 times because you think you know it all. 😂

How can you put it in neutral? I have one that is down and it’s just like yours and I can’t seem to find a freewheeling valve to release the brake pressure

What kind of clips/brackets are you using? I have found that Simpson makes some similar but they seem to cost a fortune. I am renovating my apartment which have 12 ft. ceilings and it's my first time doing framing.

Never thought of stepping onto the speed square. I'll definitely be using that technique!

That was amazing bro

That was stupid honestly. But okay we watched and commented you got us. But really? 😂

Irvin 250 torpedo level for me (made for plumbsite)

🌹 P R O M O S M

Screw it.

Besides the quality aspect. this speed square method is also faster. Without that back hold the stud will move and cause the screw to tip and fail half the time. Holding by had makes it more difficult

More lip service?

I'd say throw in another stud rookie make it solid corner 💯

Thank you

Next time remember to put more screws in your hand lol

Never to old to learn new stuff... I'm taking this to the bank... thanks

What thickness of chalk line you use for lay-out. And what spray you use to hold your lines so you can see them after doing lay-out.

I prefer the plumbbob as a lazer could be out from being kicked around or being dropped. As i say, a straight line will never lie. And have a 20oz bob much faster.

😢

They are called lock in studs not sliders

hold it and hammer drill lol union

Amazingly helpful - awesome video just in time :-)