Line the inside of your airing cupboard with acoustic insulation.

Haha pretty decent idea this 😂 did you just use water?

I am looking to buy a Mitsubishi heat pump and your information was very eye opening and useful. Thank you.

I have just been quoted for 2 Mitsubishi ecodans , may I ask if the software has improved , I would want to fiddle and specify as you clearly want to , however if the controls or software are still poor it’s enough to put me off and maybe look at valiant . Thanks

Vaillant is better.. probly more expensive but you get what you pay for these days

How much is the chimney sheep?

Not a fan of Mitzi. Their claims of scop etc don’t seem to add up to me

All your concerns have an answer but there is one: the defrost mode is happen because the evaporator coil behind the pump can freeze at 3 degrees outside temperature, nothing to do with the glycol in the pipes.

Hello. Any chance of an update?😊

the important for me is the noise after the heat but looks like I have to cancel mine before hear the annoying sound at night. obviously, like any other products are injected by someone who knows someone and got permission to bring these without matching the device with the UK living and environment. like the Renault car, the engine wasn't working in damp air.

You could switch the legionella off completely for the summer. I have a copper hwc which in itself controls legionella so my legionella cycle has never been on. The instructions manual is like any software manual, it tells you all the functions but not how to integrate them. I have a time of use electricity tariff which is 7.5p for 6 hours overnight. At that price I don’t care about the COP. It took me some time to find the riming settings so that hot water is only produced at night. Similarly between March and October most of the heating is done overnight with solar gain normally taking us through the rest of the day. Given the slow delivery of heat it is best to run it over the full 24 hours in winter. Finally your pump should be silent. Quite possibly some swarf has damaged the bearing? Or the pipe work isn’t designed to smooth out the flow. A design fault.

@Green Tubers your installer hasn't done a good job commissioning your system. - Your legionella cycle should be turned off based on the information you provided - Having glycol between the monobloc and the pre-plumbed cylinder means your frost protection can be disabled - There is a 1-5 pump speed setting in the installer menu, I assume yours is set to 5, dropping it to 4 should make it quieter whilst maintaining an adequate flow rate. - If you aren't already, I highly recommend switching to a heat curve for your flow temperature, it will give nice performance improvments

We've been recommended the 14kW one because we have 2 floors (ground, first and second floors), wondering if this is better than the Samsung with Homely, which apparently can heat the water at up to 70 degrees. How does this compare in running costs compared to a gas boiler? What is it set-up for 22 degrees or more? To me nice and warm means I can take my jacked off and stay in my t-shirt and shorts, that's how I ran my gas boiler for the last 10+ years.

After how many charges does the battery lose capacity?

Well done, thanks

Thanks for the detailed review here! Just wondering... has there been any firmware updates or anything since? Or are this issues you've had still present?

So much non relevant talk and rattling on. Please understand how MUCH info you’re bringing on!

How heavy is it

ESG is a misleading and controlling and is not a benefit to the people.

Thanks for the review very useful! Just wondered how far from the house your heat pump is? - looks like you have a lot of insulated pipework needed just to get to the house. I will have the same issue with the pump noise from the airing cupboard - good highlight; I will look into having my pumps put elsewhere. I didn't understand the issue with the anti-legionella tank heating; if your solar cells heat the tank to a sufficiently high temperature then the Mitsubishi heating cycle shouldn't even activate because the tank heating sensor will be telling the controller the temperature is already high enough - is that not the case?

I think the cop doesn't get to optimal values due to the system not running for a longer time window.

Hot water cop is directly related to your storage temp and flow temp. What is your heat pump set to for DHW?

You could massively improve that cop with some system tuning. This is one of the worst performance ecodan I have seen. Have you done a room by room heat loss calculation and radiator sizing? Is it setup with fixed flow temperature or weather compensation? Need to get that flow temp much lower and then the cop will massively improve. When you get UFH that will really help as long as it’s designed for the right spacing and flow temp.

We have one of these as well. Need very careful commissioning and system tuning to achieve decent cop. Ours was 2.7 now 3.5. You can set these up to work with third party smart controls. I agree the standard UI and app is dated. But the app is useful for system tuning and monitoring.

Thanks very much for so much information, can you suggest alternative to mitsubishi . I am in the process of getting quotes. Daikin what are your thought?

My review after 8 years. Its shit and expensive and I'm always freezing and my electric bill is now almost 400 a month and I live in a tiny 2 bedroom bungalow.

Just for info if you have a COP of 2 the end production is 1W = 3W of work. You cannot lose/destroy energy only change it into another equal form of energy so 1W in + a COP of 2 is calculated as 1W in (converts to heat in the compressor/work) +2 COP = 3W of work (heat) out.

I'm still baffled by air-to-water heat pumps. All that extra expense to put in new radiators or underfloor heating. Why not just put mini-split A/C units in? (Air-to-air heat pumps). You get air cooling in the summer, which ties in very well with solar production if you have solar panels. You get more responsive heat output in the winter, with ability to control each room built in. You get a better COP, as the air coming out the mini-split doesn't have to get up to more than about 25-30 degrees. It also means you can bin off all your rads, meaning less chance of water leakage in your house. The only thing you lose is the £5k grant, which is admittedly a lot of money. But the system overall may well be comparable, as the air to water systems seem to be eye wateringly expensive even with the £5k. Yes you have to heat your hot water. But this can be done cheaply overnight if you have a big tank and an immersion. You can even get heat pump water tanks now in the UK with the heat pump built into the tank. And again, with a solar diverter you get free hot water in the summer.

Mitsubishi is a good make - I have 25kw of the air to air in work cooling various things and even our 8+ year old unit has only had basic yearly maintenance. It's a shame they have not kept up with the software and control systems for the modern age.

I'll have to look at your other videos too. I am eying up replacements for my 24kw combi boiler as it's 8 years old but these heat pumps and a big tank do not look like they are any improvement at all! The fact you've ended up costing significantly more on electricity compared to oil is amazing(ly bad) as my mates that are on oil are all whining about the price of oil. It appears the more KZbin vids I watch, the more I realise what I have, a small combi boiler in a small house is probably the most efficient, most cheap to buy, most low cost to run.

BRILLIANT VIDEO.

Super review. Mine (14,4kW) will be installed next month, however, I opted for a direct condensation buffer tank of 850L. So the inner Ecodan unit becomes obsolete. The control unit will be a non-Mitsubishi universal device.

This is a far better comparison for people interested in an ASHP as it a direct comparison for 2 different souces of heat. The mitigation being that it can be improved by under floor heating. There are too many people on youtube showing heat pumps working well with a std home heating systems (radiators) and they just dont. I would guess your summer COP is low because it always will be when producing only hot water (60C+) the compressor is working at its hardest. But its true for all consumers and therefore a fair statistic to note.

Here's a thought - perhaps your SCOP was bad in summer because you weren't generating heat for the house, just, presumably, hot water? That way you won't see a COP as such, especially if you have hot water heating all the time. I got that sorted quite quickly by setting hot water to heat for just one hour, 11-12 each night. With the general house heating set back, and probably being in bed, it doesn't matter if the heating is not on. The difference between hot water always being topped up, and the one hour a night regimen, is 60 or 70 kWh vs 12-15. Just think, and looking at your figures, if there is little going into the system in summer, there is nothing to register on the output side. Except hot water. Your January spike looks like my December 2022 spike, ongoing, as it has been close to zero C much of the time (that's NW Scotland for you) and ASHP's SCOP tends to crash somewhat, with the best settings in the world. Back in Sept/Oct/Nov my SCOP was an easy 2.5, and that was before I started tweaking settings eg. heat curve, max water temp in the CH loop, balancing the emitters (I got HUGE rads with my COMPLETELY FREE system, a fortunate moment in time when I qualified for a 100% grant, plus free wall cavity insulation! But things have been different here, north of the border). Yes, it is freakishly expensive to run at this time, freezing conditions here often, lecky at 32p a kWh. But before December it was much, much less. So I see the annual average coming out something similar to your own figures. That's me on my own, with health problems that dictate 23 C - honestly - needed in the daytime, with 21 C setback compromise (tbh, I have yet to experiment with no setback/a little setback/more setback and so on), although I can't stand a bedroom other than unheated! It's not a big house, but I am cosy all the time, and the coal and wood that fuelled my old wet heating system was costing £2,500 annually (!!!) and now I don't have to heft coal and wood in tonne loads 6 times a year... With the rise in coal and wood by well over 50% in my part of the world since last winter, I would reckon on £4,000 a year now! If I can heat my house just as well with the ASHP I now own, at half projected carbon fuel cost, I'm smiling all the way to the bank, as well as feeling a tad better about my carbon pollution. Given how much wind and hydro Scotland produces, I'm a happy bunny!

Have you the link for the insulation supplier ?

Interesting points. I've had a 11.2kW version of this for the last year and a half, and had a similar issue with the circulation pump. Although technically it's nothing to do with the heat pump really. I ended up relocating the pump 3 times in various places in the house, finally it's now in a sealed metal box on the exterior wall next to the actual heat pump. I think Vaillant incorporate the circulator into the heat pump itself which is the perfect place really. Vibration isolation via the feet and flexi hoses. Ours still whines through the wall a little as it's rigidly mounted but its 90% better than it was bolted to the loft floor directly above our bedroom. It's mad that installers are even allowed to do this with these powerful pumps. I agree the app sucks, but actually the platform itself is really good. The API is open so it can be integrated into Home Assistant for monitoring, and the app also runs natively in Windows via the store, and online too it's the same interface. They just need to update it. The controller on the wall isn't particularly well suited for heating controls because that's the same controller Mitsubishi use for lots of HVAC systems - air recouperation, air to air systems, etc. But also some of the other brands are so shockingly arcaic it beggars belief. PS regarding legionella - boosting the tank to 50c in the night is what we do, and as long as that temp is retained for 30 mins it's all it needs. No need to explicitly run legionella protection. In Home Assistant I have an automation which changes the set point to 50c at 2am which is when our EV tarriff starts. After 6am it's down to 44 degrees. And in the summer, I connect the immersion directly to a PV diverter for hot water, so it thinks it does legionella but doesn't actually.

If you are not ready to upgrade your building envelope, you should have just left in the existing appliance. Or if it was available, put in a gas boiler.

hate the way people woffle-on on youtube videos..

I installed my7kw heat pump in my new pasif sips 3 bed detached single story house and its only for the underfloor heat,,,,no tank its direct to the floor,,,,works like a dream,,,,,,,

We are having our house accessed for air sauce heating, if the are able to I think I’ll place the water tank in the garage as it would be direct feed so the pressure should get so anywhere in the house no problem. This way we don’t hear the pump running lol. I’ll see what options there is.

I’d also be inclined to keep the rads and see *if* they need to be bigger - I can imagine hundreds of useable rads being chucked purely because the calcs or fingers in air say so which seems daft to me. Insulation and draught proofing is a no-brainer but again can be done progressively if not already in place…

Fabric first. A better approach is to use that 12300£ into insulation, air tightness, mhvr so you don’t need a heat pump for space heating.

I have an ecodan and solar thermal - we have disabled the legionella cycle having seen that solar thermal will get the temperature up high enough on odd days through the winter as well as continuously through the summer. I've never seen a scientific basis for the weekly cycle - but did find research suggesting legionella took 2 years to establish in a domestic HW system, so actually even if you don't it that hot over winter it is probably fine

You might find the pumps are loud because of how hard they work with your microbore. Once that is upgraded you can turn them down. We have it in a spare room with two pumps. Can't hear either when you are next to them. It will get better!

How did you chose your flow temp? Did you run low and creep it up if you were cold? The design temp is usually for -2 in the UK. So for spring and autumn you should be able to run much lower. Maybe play with your weather compensation curve. We have a radiator and ufh mix with part insulated terrace house and get a cop of 4 or even 5 during warm ish oct and Sept.

Thanks for your insights. We have the R410a predecessor of your unit, which has been fine since it was installed in 2019. Like you, ours wasn't fitted into a new build - it replaced an oil boiler system in a 1960s bungalow. We didn't have the luxury of converting to underfloor heating, but the place does get warm enough. Our engineer told me that the legionella function would know when our PV panels heated up the tank enough, so the heat pump wouldn't run weekly - I never checked to prove him wrong! Yes, I think everyone agrees that the app and controller are total crap. Sadly, there's nothing we can do about that, but the units themselves are very good, with great long-term reliability. Maybe the dearer Nibe or Stiebel Eltron equivalents are better, but would a better app & control be worth another couple of grand? We've got a Dimplex 300 litre cylinder. The installation's not as neat as yours, but there's more space to work on it if required, plus it'd be simpler to replace than one like yours with all the gubbins clinging to it. All that's in the old brick airing cupboard, far from the bedrooms so noise isn't an issue. The ASHP's right outside our living room, but it's no noisier than the old boiler with its fan running from 2 rooms away. If anyone's got one of these and UFCH, bear in mind that there's a switch somewhere to allow reverse flow, to keep the floors cool in summer - an ideal use for solar panels in the sunnier months! Don't try this if you've got radiators though - condensation streams down them onto the floor.

Hi, looks like a great job. Well done! I am just about to take on an allotment with a 12' X 26' polytunnel. Can I ask the width and length of your raised beds? Happy growing.

Check out Heat Geek on KZbin, my friend has a EcoDan and he had the same problem with the pump until he had it serviced by Mitsubishi. Make sure the heat pump isn't running at full speed, it needs to be set to weather compensation. Poor installers turn these settings off.

Great review. We’ve just had an Ecodan 8.5kw fitted. I too am surprised at how basic the controller is after having a Honeywell. Naively I assumed it would work with the Ecodan. My installers suggested using space in my garage/utility for the tank and associated gubbings. A good move, you can just hear a low hum in total silence. And we’ve gained storage in the redundant airing cupboard. I altered the Legionella setting to once a week at 1am. Off peak , I heat the water off peak too. I’m quite pleased after a week.

Hey Green Tubers - looks like we are telling a similar story! Good to connect. kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5a5daaJlL6Cnbc I had a couple of videos experience similar traction about heat pumps, it is really interesting!