👍

When inserting windows, do you have a tip to place them to brick cuts?

My table for inputting the data has North and East columns how do I eliminate that

awesome videos, please do a full project build based on a real project, even if it's paid I will buy it

Hi mate, do you have any videos on setting up topography from a survey plan?

how much full project cost you

Amazing, exactly what I was after. Legend

Alternate Title "Degenerate to artisan under 9 minutes"

Straight to the point and practical info, great video 👍

super useful - thank you

Just found your channel looking forward to diving in 👍

Hi mate, I’m studying a certificate iv in drafting but I’ve noticed all job advertisements want 3-5 years experience. Any tips on how to get working? Or even set up a business?

Put ya bucket down

Thank you - you saved me a lot of time and my Client some cash 🙂

you should have put down a few sheets of 3/4 in plywood to save the grass, little details make a huge difference in the final product , instead of just tearing it up and saying "well it just gonna have to regrow"

This was helpful! But how do we adjust the line space between multiple lines?

Bless Up

awesome vid! gotta love sometimes working with sketchy RP plans provided 😂 sometimes its barely legible that you gotta guess and confirm your guess with the total m2 of the block ... wish I knew the way top of head to calculate the conversion.. I google the chains and links converter and just use that to transpose, saves using calculator...

So good! haha... I'm binging your videos as they're really helpful 😊 I used to just google ''degrees symbol' or ''m2'' off a google search and copy paste each time. I've got these numbers in a sticky note on my monitor - hoping to commit to memory. Thanks heaps!

great tip!

We subcontracted to a volume builder, and we'd need LH and RH (left and right) versions of each set design we created. I used to charge at least 4 hours to mirror a project because I used to use the normal mirror command and redimension and move view boxes etc. It was a nightmare! I ended up subcontacting this specific task out to overseas as it was time consuming and such a tedious task. I've just picked up more work again dreaded this task - google search brought me here and... thank you heaps!! This definately saves a lot of time and makes this task less daunting! thank you! I'm embarrased I didn't know this function yet relieved at the same time.. thanks again!

No gratuitous jump into the pool?

Ayy my new revit channel

I got to ask, why did you put the pool there? such an awkward position?

Thank you, It’s so helpful!❤

Looks amazing.

I;ve flipped a project without this tool before. It was small enough it went ok. BUT- This is so much better. Thanks for the video.

What program did you use to do the timelapse?

man, you literally saved my life, hats off to you

The edges were no closed..i made a fashia board..

I didn't think you could have anything closer than 1 metre to the pool fencing that could be used to climb over, in this case the roof post. Is that not a rule?

hey in your hidden line elevation views how do you get the trees to look good especially those with the lines that are visible in the middle of the trees as they arent on the rac basic smaple elevation files in revit . tried to copy and edit family load them in to my file but still not getting the trees to look right .

Standing under a suspended load. Well done!

What was the height on the poolside boundary fence mate?

You are a goldmine of hot tips!

Thank you so much, this was helpful!

Your content is honestly great! Please keep making revit videos!

Thanks for showing where the actual import button was! I knew there was a "correct way" but I couldn't find it.

Tell me: Does the pool company check with the local council on underground pipes before they commence the dig?

Gaad damn! i just came from a 30minute long video and got nothing from it. This video was clear and concise. Brief but comprehensive. Thank you!!!

Did those glass fencers seriously core drill without putting down a template to ensure the core drill doesn't slip when starting a hole? I don't care how good you are it's a sure fire way to have an accident damaging tiles that will need to be replaced. I do glass pool fencing with my brother and I really don't like the way they install glass either. Those Glass Mates look cool but they're expensive at $80 each and while they make adjusting the height and level of the glass easy the rubber on their feet make it harder to adjust the line of the glass, and being small made from aluminium I question how well they will keep glass stable with wind. Putting the spigots onto the glass first and lifting them in is also an archaic and inefficient way of doing it, and it looks like they had panels lying on their side and tops which risks damaging them along with risk of damaging the face by lying it down. No string line running over top of the glass in the middle to help ensure it's straight, I don't care how good you think your eyes are a string line helps immensely. Also looking at the two photos after they grouted they clearly didn't fill the grout up to the top of the hole leaving a gap that looks upwards of 10 mm, that's not good and will let water rest inside the holes. The way we install our glass is using timber blocks with packers that is levelled around the entire fence line first, this ensures all the heights will be compliant and level. We place the empty spigots directly into the core holes, cutting the bottom with a grinder if needed, with the cover places. The glass is always stored the right way, so sitting on their bottom, and we simply lower them onto the timber packers and into the spigots. The glass is secured by a custom made extendable brace with a suction cup on the face of the glass and a weight (usually bucket of water) on its base, these braces are done every second panel and each panel is joined to its neighbours using a timber joiner (two small pieces of timber with a screw in the middle) up to and bottom. One secured spigots are screwed in, no fuss measuring where they are meant to go on the glass beforehand and no extra effort needed to flip or rotate the glass or risk damaging the visible sides or faces. Once a full side is put in, or two or three depending on size and number of braces, we run a string line along the top of a side lined up in the middle of either end corner to help straighten and level the glass and as we use timber packers we can easily adjust panels to follow the line. When we grout we also go to the very top in line with the top of the tile cleaning any mess right away with a sponge, sometimes the grout may be a few mm below the tile though but never anything like these guys did.

Thanks for the tip! How did you make the text box expend upwards?

is it possible to do a similar colour coding with the shadows diagram , to show the different of the existing shadows with fences and adjacent building and new shadow that might be cast with the new design all still in revit

Nice you will need to trim thoes trees alot

what design program are you using at the start the of the video?

with the detail component - is it a parametric detail

Hi, I would like to ask how to avoid to use this without the view code? I pressed Alt and 0248, when I press to 02, will go to switch windows function due to the default view code

Thank you so much for sharing this! So much easier than that other “ degenerate” method. 👍

You can create it all as one roof without adding voids or any extra roof bits. Raise the roof like you did and using the split tool split the roof you want to be raised (approx 1-2mm) from the valley without a 'defined roof pitch' and then using the join roof command connect the side roofs under to the walls. I can send screen shots. This has been a big issue in years gone by though. Thank you for your video.

I couldn't see what you were typing. Nonetheless, Revit SHOULD have an easy to use, 'windows-like' calculator. Amazing how they (Autodesk) refuse to just cut through the crap & integrate easier, more visible ways of doing things.