I would check the grounding point that is located at nsr wheel arch just above where you were working on the fuel filter. That is the ground for a few things one of them being the fuel pump. It is a common failing point due to corrosion.

Thank you so much, its missing on my car and really I also like to know the water! Now start looking for the set!!!!!!~!

Looking more like a car again 👌👍

Scottish roadster meet when you are done? 🙏

Did you bleed the radiator off camera 😁

Good prgress. thanks for sharing.

Persevering! Look forward to seeing it on the road again.

Persevering! Look forward to seeing it on the road again.

I've had two Roadsters with water pump issues. Same as you, massive play in the bearings but surprisingly they didn't leak.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/a2XUe2aVfduYfdksi=BDWEp45tn6tUtZsG Delphi Tool

Thanks for shering

Too much talking, no working enough....

Almost there

Did you figure out the fault? Seems like a faulty rpm-sensor

Well done. Great perseverance.

The best thing about your Chanel is your honesty ( including errors we all make but don't like to admit to) and determination. Well done!

There are a couple of ground upgrades/fixes recommended on evilution, might be worth checking those out as well for good measure By the way, I still don’t own a smart but your videos are definitely tilting me towards getting one! Keep up the good work~

That under arch earth was the cause of my last one failing. Smart Tecnic replaced the ECU but it failed again on the way back from Birmingham and had to be recovered from the top of Soutra Hill by the RAC. I extended the wires and earthed them inside the engine compartment and it was the first job I did on my present car.

Looking good!

Even with my perf working roadster if I wait too long between unlocking the car and putting ignition ON I get that key symbol in the dash. I then need to put ignition OFF, unlock the car with the key fob, turn back on.

Could it be an immobiliser issue?

Smart starter motors are fragile. I wouldn't crank it as long as you did to save burning it out. As a quick check, switch on the ignition then listen to the throttle body. You should hear a continuous soft buzzing from the stepper motor showing its got power.

A cheeky update video on a Saturday night. Good man 👍🏼 IVE POSTED VIDEO ON ROADSTER GROUP ASKING FOR Suggestions TO BE POSTED IN COMMENTS HERE.

Here's to progress🍻 Looking forward to next installment!

Thanks, I was able to read out my code with this video!

That engine assembly is looking way better compared to how it came out. Keep going and updating us. Thanks

There is a cnc compressor wheel for that turbo on alie in two sizes; std one and slightly larger. Both are lighter so better spool is the main advantage

remove evap and sai while u there ;>

Nice that you show your mistakes. I bought one ( not a brabus ) 3 days ago and drove it from Germany through France and Spain. Not a bother. Great wee car. You'll be be keen to get it back on the road.

Can you easy code the steering wheels on with mb star ? I have a none Brabus 452 but have a flappy paddle wheel has the two plugs on the sqib Are they not just plug and play

THANKS!!! I just noticed that my left stop light isn't working!

Now folks this is how you film an instructional video. I’m a Smart car mechanic so extremely helpful. Bravo 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽

i would not paint it

Change the TIK pipe while the engine is out, otherwise a great update.

Good to see you still it, looking forward to the updates. Maybe a clean as well ;)

Great to see your progress. You doing a good job. Keep it up. It'll be worth it. I shared your last vid on the most popular FB page for others to advise and subscribe. 👌🏼

Loving all of the updates, you’re doing a great job. There’s not too much new Roadster content out there these days,thanks for sharing!

Have you checked the charge cooler? When I recommissioned my Brabus I discovered the air &. liquid were no longer separated. Top up the fluid with the bottom air pipe disconnected and make sure no fluid comes out!

Noice

Love following along with this, looking forward to the next episode!

Dont spend your money and time on the shock absorber tool. Just cut them with your grinder. You won't be able to use those absorbers anymore anyway.

Some believe that the lower arms- you’re better off sticking with the originals and rebush them. Size doesn’t quite be the same. Running spike lines, take the same kind of abuse as your local roads would give with ease

Wrote a comment before telling you to keep it original which I don’t think you were too keen on! Delighted to see you’ve still got the car. That’s the job having the lift. You’re going to get plenty of use off it. Electrical gremlins. Ground point above near side rear arch. Tend to rot the copper so give it a good look. Let us know how your brake lines are !

Hello... please check the radio code for this smart fortwo radio МС341621114932

Hello... please check the radio code for this smart fortwo radio МС341621114932

Hello... please check the radio code for this smart fortwo radio МС341621114932

Hello... please check the radio code for this smart fortwo radio МС341621114932

What’s the plan with the engine?

Black face dials on Coupe and white on Notchback.

What a great car. Nice job👌. I do fancy having a go at this at some point. There are a fair few folks I’ve read about in the owners forum, who believe drum brakes on the back are better suited to the car if that helps 👍.