You can also just put sealant into the tube. You can still remove the presta valve and put sealant in with a syringe. It's really easy and clean. The sealant just falls into the presta stem. This does work. I've been doing it for a while with no problems. I fixed my nephew's flat tire by simply putting sealant in the tube and airing it up. It hasnt been flat since.

People coping with made in china parts just cause its cheap. Buy somthing japanese or european, problem solved....

I have shimano SM-MA F203P/PM adaptor for my 203mm ice tech it had an indentation instead of that straight bar for the caliper to seat into, ive left the code its not expensive 14 bucks! you'll get over heating until you change to a 4 piston set up just how it is with a single piston i got mine as standard on my new emtb front and rear absolutely outstanding its the calipers holding them back now

Magnesium in the center of the Ice Tech discs transfers the heat. I have them on mine as standard with 4-piston XT calipers. Once bedded in, they are amazing. Bedded in fast. A couple of rides around the park were done. The difference in the fronts is crazy stopping power.

I can't finish watching this video...🙄🥱😔

Can I use a tubeless tyre on a non-tubeless rim and just use an inner tube with it?

I ran into the same problem you did with the bolt length being too long when I switched to a different frame actually. Except my problem was more expensive because I bought some titanium bronze colored bolts so I now have $20 in titanium bolts just sitting in my parts bin. I ended up buying some shorter steel gold colored bolts on Amazon to replace them.

Get some Shimano brakes instead, you won't regret it.

Did you use a torque wrench to ensure that you had it tightened to the 4nm that they specify? Mine doesn’t move like that once I’ve tightened it to 4nm

Loosen up the caliper so it has a little movement then spin the wheel & fully apply the brake lever & keep it held on then tighten up the caliper whilst holding the brake Still on & when youre done they'll not bind at all. 👍🏻

I use rattle gun on 40nm😂

Good vid man. What compound pads are you using? I reckon the size upgrade is worth it but also maybe try a new pad with it and see if that makes a difference.

You have infinite patience

Great video showing what it’s like to ride this trail. Appreciate that you posted the distance and time you rode each day. I’ve had many “hike a bike” rides but now glad to get assistance from my Trek Dual Sport E-bike. With the extender battery attached you need to recharge the battery about every 42 miles if going uphill on gravel with full gear and in sport mode (one above eco mode). On level pavement my battery range is twice as good.😊

FWIW Aeroe seem to have new attachments to prevent this issue. I emailed them and they replied quickly saying they'll send them out for mine :)

You made your own problems in truth by attempting to do everything with tools that were "not quite correct" for the job. Your approach reminded me of trying to undo a bolt with the wrong socket. Everything is a challenge and what should be simple is slow and painful. A compressor would make a world of difference at the very least and the correct wheels as well. You did it all on a budget, so the pain of lost time and effort came with that. The correct items would conclude that task in 30 mins. I converted two wheels for example in under half an hour a few days ago.

Nice video, thanks for sharing

I'm still a little fuzzy on the concept. Tubeless gives better reliability? Tubeless saves weight? Just want to be clear. Nice video though and some good patience displayed. I probably would have done more throwing and swearing with that rear. Cheers.

your transition is complete! nice job!

Awesome work around! I have the cradle haven’t used it yet but I think this is a great work around ! Your friend should sell it !!!

Also I might say I love seeing older bikes upgraded with newer and better parts. It’s very satisfying but it can be very frustrating working out the compatibility between older and newer parts. Trying to find correct spares for a 13 year old bike can be quite hard also. Again well done.

I’m doing the same conversion on my old 2011 Giant XTC 1. It has Deore and XT components but I’ll be going with a Cues 4000 set up for simplicity and toughness. I just need to work out if it will fit with my existing press fit bottom bracket. Great videos BTW.

Should of went with an eleven speed cassette instead looks tight but might work.

I have used Aeroe handlebar cradle on approx 10 rides so far. On the first two ride with only 4.5lbs on the cradle, the cradle kept slipping lower, pressing into my hydraulic brake lines. The Clamping kept loosening. On the next few rides, the cradle slipped almost immediately with approx. 6lbs in the cradle. I then used a handlebar extender to move the cradle out from my handlebars. On the next ride with 7lbs in the cradle the extender held but the cradle clamps loosened and the cradle flopped almost to tire level and pressed against my brake lines. On my last ride I think i have found a solution. I put an additional extender under the first extender so when the cradle clamps loosen. The cradle did flop, but only as far as the second extender not into my brake lines. I now have built up the extender thickness with rubber inner tube and really cranked the cradle clamps down on the tubing. I am testing this latest version and it seems to hold. My complaint about the cradle itself Is that the dry bag (that contains my tent. fly, poles and ground sheet) keeps bouncing and keeps spinning in the cradle. It is like the cradle material is not sturdy enough to even carry a 7 lb load. Neither the company I purchased it from Mountain Equipment Co-op nor Aeroe seem to care about the lack of performance or quality of this product. This product can only be used with a lot of work.

All my tubeless set ups including a set of the 3.00 spez butchers.. very heavy very grippy .longest lasting tyre f an nduro haibike abuse and still have the dynamic equivalent grip as the top end soft compounds...its so heavly built and designed ..ithat pair of butchers have been on my haibike yam nduro 7..for a year ......yeah .a year ..they need changing but hey ..id havd burnt through hundreds f the Sam performance elsewhere..ALL MY TUBLESS WERE BUILT THIS WAY..WORK CAREFULLY AND THEY WILL PROBABLY LAST LONGER THAN USUAL...PLUS ONCE 1 CYCLE OF GOO HAS RUN THROUGH EM...BUT... .... ALWAYS USE GUERILLA TAPE ...YEAH ..WE ALL DO IT AND WE ALL USE IT.... GORILLA GREEN

Thanks for the great video! I am planning on heading out there next weekend. However, after watching you suffer the climbs on the way up I will only do the north Cowichan portion 😅

I bought this rack and the 12 ltr dry bag last week and the attachment to the handlebar is different now. Instead of a strap, it is a metal strip which sits on top of a rubber band of decent thickness. Now when you tighten the screws, the metal strip squeezes down super tight onto the rubber which is around the handlebar. I have been using a fully loaded bag on the rack and there has been zero movement even though I've ridden on rough terrain.My bike has front shocks so some of the force has been dampened but I'm still really pleased with the lack of movement.

What a waste of time 1x is cr@p

Hi, great video and mod for the harness. I made my own harness from a thrift store lumbar support. I have a few other hack ideas on my budget gravel bike set up like waste pipe fork cages. . I'm not a you tuber but I made 1 short video about these , check it out if you're curious ✌

Think most people would use a 8 to 13 litre dry bag with this harness. A lot of handlebars are quite smooth / slippery, would putting some insulation tape or textured tape or even a piece of cut innertube rubber, around the handlebar (where harness fits) first then mount the harness be a solution ? I have used this when fitting light brackets to the bike. Or try tying a piece of para cord / dyneema over the handlebar stem and down onto the harness to prevent it dropping.

Personally I would never want that much weight up there so it might not be and issue but I couldn't help noticing the forks are locked out. If they were not then would it absorb impact more? If I were to modify one I would probably look at an Ortlieb style cable set up so nothing would be left on the bike when not in use.

Great video! Thanks

Planning on doing this trip May long weekend. thanks for posting cheers

Great job! i wondered if its possible to convert a retro steel touring bike [Dawes Galaxy] to a 1 x ? Anyone know?

DOT 4? Not sure about that choice, but the rest of the video was very helpful!

I fantasize about putting a 1x, with AXS eagle on my old Trek Antelope. The electric shifting is so nice, and it would remove 2 external cables from my frame.

Personally I would have gotten an air pig, go to my mechanic have him fill it up, enough air for car tires, and bike tires.

Watched 3 times looking forward to this ride

Wow you have a great setup. You gave me some great advice on the front rack problem and the use of a dry bag strapped to the rack. Thank you.

Not sure there is any value in trying to seat the bead with out the tire sealant in it after your experience. Maybe the liquid lubricates the bead just enough to slide out against the rim.

Have you ever repaired a tubeless wheel in the forest? If so, you'll never try tubeless tyres again...

As a perfectionist, I would be annoyed / slightly bothered by the mix of old and new tire design, and so I think that was a poor customer service decision to ship 2 different designs to the same customer. But, yeah, getting delayed just to make them the same would also be a concern. As far as going tubeless, I think it would be overkill and not worth the effort and expense for the light type of riding I do.

Thanks for making these videos. I do think you may have erred on the side of caution on the bottom bracket bearings, and tightened them more than required, (when you used that wrench, and didn't have a socket to tighten them). - But, that's an amatuer opinion.

Thanks for the video. I have a 15 year old fully, aluminium frame. 3 by, Shimano XT. Worth about 2000 USD back then. Not many km, as I used it for short MTB tours (am more of a road biker). I was wondering if it was worth investing to make a 1by out of it. I’d go for SRAM Eagle GX groupset and would also need to replace the crankset and the inner bearing. Knowing that I can get a new Eagle GX Aluminium hardtail 1by for 1500 and a carbon one for 2000 (don’t really need fully), I was wondering if it was really worth doing the upgrade. Why the upgrade: 1) I need lower gears as I’m getting older and often pull the kids trailer, and 2) The 1 to 3 current lowest gears always "jump" under load, despite the cassette, chainring and chain being good, which leaves me in a tight spot when pulling the kids. (To get this fixed, I tried on my own then went 2-3 times to a mechanic: the problem has never been solved.)

Nicely done! I came up with a slightly different solution. I used a handlebar extender, mounted vertically on the steering tube. The piece your master-metalsmith-brother-from-another-mother Toby made up for you is much more elegant. I might take one, just a BC ferry ride away for me.......🤣

My atx has a cartridge bottom bracket. Did you replace your bottom bracket and if so which one did you get. If not, how did you get your new cranks to fit

Nice video! Using diy hardware I mounted the Aeroe cradle on the arch of my suspension fork, angled almost upright. Did not use the handlebar mounting hardware that came with the kit. I’m also using a pair of 25” long Atlas straps (similar to Voile). I can strap dry bags up to 20 liters without issues.

Sweet video. I also have a giant atx and interested in doing a 1x11 conversion. I was wondering what wheel and free hub you got to make it fit. I’m not sure about sizing and all that.

I use a rack and same set up as you, great video.

If Aeroe did this mod I would buy it.