3x to 1x Drivetrain Conversion Part 3: smaller chainring and proper torquing of bolts

[@f1hotrod527]

I fantasize about putting a 1x, with AXS eagle on my old Trek Antelope. The electric shifting is so nice, and it would remove 2 external cables from my frame.

[@pentiuman]

Thanks for making these videos. I do think you may have erred on the side of caution on the bottom bracket bearings, and tightened them more than required, (when you used that wrench, and didn't have a socket to tighten them). - But, that's an amatuer opinion.

[@tomahoks]

Regarding pedals, they both are tightened same direction. Good rule, imo.

[@pentiuman]

No, I believe you are wrong - right side is right to tighten, while left side is left to tighten, traditional, old-fashioned pedals. As the video correctly explains, that is from the perspective of being on the same side you are wrenching from. But in the video, he's tightening the non-drive (left side) pedal, FROM the right side of the bike, given the way he's tightening his pedals, using the hex. key on the back - he chose to do it from the back of the pedal, given his torque wrench type.

[@druiz127]

If you don’t put thread lock on the chainring bolts isn’t it possible they can seize?

[@chasingmyfreedom3642]

In my experience, you don't generally use thread lock to avoid seizing (although it may inadvertently help in this regard) but rather to keep bolts from vibrating loose and eventually falling out. I believe the best way to avoid seizing is to instead use an anti-seize compound. I've used this on my motorcycle bolts for years and it has worked well. I've also heard just putting grease on the threads can help to reduce seizing but not as well as anti-seize.