I ended up running the master cylinder/brake booster combo offered for the tri fives from CPP I believe, can’t easily recall right offhand

Ok.thx.

Sorry for the delay in response, allow me a bit of time to look over the build and research as it’s been some time now since the video was published and I don’t recall it right off hand. Thanks!

Yes and no. It still functions, though I’ve noticed that I’ve had trouble with my temp reading despite changing the sending unit, and the fuel readings began giving me some trouble. I suspect that was due to me not doing my research regarding the sending units having two different options for ohms I think? I don’t remember right off hand, but yeah. Still functions; the one thing I highly dislike is that even when dimmed, it’s still offensively bright to me at night

Once the two pieces were beveled and ready to weld in, a very, very small gap was placed to help compensate for this, though I’d presume with the small enough amount that it’d likely have enough play not to affect it

I wouldn’t say it was even half of that. Maybe 2-3 hours for me to get the bulk of it in, another hour to work on the controller and switches, and an hour or two under the hood compressor and wiring wise? I’m also quite slow at mechanic work compared to others so 6-7 hours for me may be more than others need

Ironically enough I’d just developed some problems with my gauge cluster and have been putting off calling customer support about it, thinking I may need a new one lol

Used the same axles but swapped them side to side

Awesome. Gonna be doing this swap shortly. Thanks.

I utilized a pattern layout from summit and had a machine shop redrill the axles to a Chevrolet pattern, so I could install Chevrolet studs and run the same lug bolts and wheels that I had originally before the rearend swap. A trip to the auto parts store always helps me if I’m shopping for lug bolts on something else, just run them for the explorer if you haven’t swapped the studs out

Nobody seems to be answering this question 😕 pinion centerline??? I have 62 nova 2 inches off

I’m not sure if the stock 55 is centerline or not, I don’t recall it being offset. But I know the 8.8 is not centerline, and required work to correct it enough to align as far as the driveshaft tunnel and driveshaft/pinion

For sure, you should be able to tuck some serious tire that way!

I decided I didn’t like the side vents when mocking things up, and capped them off just running the center under dash vent. I may go back and cut/install some factory style side vents but the ones in the kit I didn’t like at all

@@TheBuildSpot I didn't like that option either. When I spoke to the Vintage Air rep he said you could buy those that factory style ones and install. That's the route I/m gonna go with. Thanks again for the videos! They definitely help.

I’ve heard of people doing it, just potentially causing some binding in the tunnel underneath the car with the driveshaft If the car is too low. Not sure if it’s true or not, just what I’d heard.

I intend to pick back up filming and posting as soon as possible. Some life events put me on pause for some time, and very recently my shop was destroyed so I’m in the process of rebuilding! Thanks for the follow!

I used the same driveshaft I had, just utilized a different u joint to pair it to the ford’s 8.8 flange

Yes, size (width) is extremely close to a factory rear end, and this rear end came from a late 90s explorer I believe. I’d have to look back as it’s been some time since I made the video now, a few projects ago, but it was relatively easy and works quite well even to this day

Your blower motor isn’t working right? Hmmm. Mine came all inclusive and worked wonderfully, I wonder if you’ve either got something blocked like a half stuck blend door, or the fan isn’t running at full capacity? Have you called vintage Air about it?

Surprisingly, no lol. Just accumulated things over time, but I’ll say he’s an absolutely fantastic fabricator. You should see some of the things he’s built recently on my Instagram, it baffles me! I haven’t been able to film and post because of pc AND camera issues but both should be fixed soon so I’ll be able to capture more of it hopefully

I don’t recall having to do so, just took my time and manipulated the shaft stubs through the firewall from the inside, and ran outside the car to get it started as far as screwing the retainer nut on

It hasn’t been with me, and I’m starting to suspect my cars either been lowered or has worn out springs lol

@@TheBuildSpot I didn't word that properly. I meant without swapping housing ends.

Wipers work fine and are very quiet, I have no problems with them at all. We ended up buying a second set for my dads nomad actually

@@TheBuildSpot that’s awesome! Thank you for the reply. I’m gonna order the kit for mine. Thanks again.

@@1996slamster not a problem, that’s the whole reason I filmed all of this was to hopefully help people out with it!

Are you referring to an LS swap? I’d presume so, speedometer runs off if wiring or mechanical sensor. Rpm is a wire which I believe can be tied into a section in the LS swap (I don’t know much about them). Water temp and oil pressure I believe are pretty similar. I swapped in a fresh engine with self tuning EFI and it runs fine with that

eric mcmurtrie I did use the flange and the conversion u joint yes. As for the driveshaft length I don’t entirely recall now, I’ll have to check on that and get back to you on it!

@@TheBuildSpot will this rear end fit in a wagon/ nomad as the clearance to the fuel tank is tight? thanks so much

eric mcmurtrie we’ve got one built currently for our nomad with no KNOWN fitment issues, haven’t gotten it installed yet but from reading the forums it’s supposed to fit tri fives across the board

rodsby red I went with the mid-late 90s explorers as they had disc brakes, not to mention if you keep an eye on the suffix codes in the door jamb you can score one with 3.73 limited slip

@@TheBuildSpot Thanks , put that same rear diff in a 51 F3 , soon to be a half ton. Any idea where I can get good backing plates ? Ford wants to sell the whole bracket and plate combo 😵

rodsby red ive had a lot of luck recently digging through junkyards ironically enough. Just scored an old 348 big block and a Ford 9” for virtually nothing. Any u auto pull it’s near you?

@@TheBuildSpot that's where I pull the explorer diff ( YPI ). Unfortunately I live in the rust belt (Ohio)

rodsby red ah. See I’m in Arkansas, junk cars everywhere and minimal rust as we don’t typically have to salt the roads here

Awesome man!

Not quite sure what you mean regarding the heater hoses? And I made a video covering the control panel as well, it was quite intimidating to me initially

I couldn’t tell you what it was my friend, we had a family friend who welds for a living do it! I’m learning slowly, but had I done the welding it most certainly would’ve come apart 😂

The Build Spot learning is the main thing. All looking good to me. I’m interested in watching the progress.

Ron Muirhead thanks man! My updates have been slow, though the cars been on back burner a bit. Hoping to finish editing a video this weekend, and to also wrap it up for the most part this weekend IF all goes well. I’m ready to drive it again 😂

Does it show anything at all, such as 0mph or is it completely blank?

@@TheBuildSpot it says " 0 mph " everything else works so I figures maybe I have a wrong connection to the transmission

Yeah I would figure that would be the problem if I had to guess, though I’m no expert on the gauges! Let me do some checking into it and if I find anything else on it I’ll let ya know with a reply back!

This one is running well thankfully, no problems so far. That said, I’ll definitely run a jig of some sort for any in the future

Dude I HATE being left handed 😂

dernolddodge good to hear, and glad it helped in some way!

dernolddodge 55-57 have the same measurements as far as rear ends go, so if it fits one of the tri five cars typically it’ll fit the others aside from specifics such as body panels, dash components etc which varied by year

The Build Spot thanks. I will definitely use your video when I get one for my car.

I meant to say i not in

TORRELL R it’s some sort of summit brand carb that my father purchased. Did ok, but I’m more familiar with Holley carbs which it’s similar to at least