This is super good stuff. I really appreciate you putting this out there for us.

VCDS Programming: 34:50 (note for self) ❤ Thx for the video. Still using in Aug of 24'. 🤙🏼👍🏽

Great job as ALWAYS Fernando!

Thank you Jesus!!

Do you remember the torque spec on the brackets that hold the pins that hold the solenoids?

How can you tell if it’s the valve body is bad and not anything else?

Very cool

Awesome

Good job Brother !

Fernando, you are the stand-up comedian of engineers!!! What an interesting and extremely funny presentation!

This vids shit, should be showing people, we don't want to see you do it from a far

Ummmm. Show

Torque is measured in Newton meters, not nanometers.

Very well said & done..Also very informative. Question... Do u need the Vcs vw programed to learn the new valve body?Or will the on board car computer do it on its own?

you didnt show a good angle for pulling these wires the hardest part

grande abraço!

aeee mano saudades de fazer os consertos juntos!!! te ajudaria se estivesse ai perto....kkk achou que ia demorar 1 hora, lembre se é 3 vezes para mais o tempo q vc acha

Excellent 👍

Where can I find the PDF’s for the diagram?

Good to see a new video here! What a great surprise with an important theme being presented.

how did your guide pins work? when raising the valve body to mate back into position within the transmission?

Did you need to adjust the clutch control valves?

I know this was done a while back. Do you still have the car and if so, how is the transmission working today?

Seu inglês aportuguesado está ok 👌 😂😂

Thanks for the video, very helpful. Some proceadures are totally not necessary like the shipping tags on the wiring connectors. They basically fall back in place on their own because they have been that way for many years, VERY difficult to mess that up. The torque specs for the valve body bolts is questionable, some instructions say 11 Nm and nothing else, your instructions show 8 Nm+90 degrees, and others show 71 inch lbs. Where did you get your torque specs from? Also, this video helps a lot with the location of all the valve body bolts, super straight forward - take a look: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ioG3YmRsZtSif6M&lc=UgxcaHZKPmunTA7ESNl4AaABAg.9bLc97s8VwP9bNH1ubZywM

Excellent video! Will be doing mine soon.

Thank you so much!!!

Nice, but quick question, how much fluid came out after you tested the fluid level? Did you test the correct fluid level? Let it drain at 35°C and 45°C until air bubbles appear while the fluid drips out... Etc

amazon is full of made in china craps. The good reviews are paid for. Do not waste your money and time. Buy a name brand and cry once.

The rod idea was terrific. I got two M6 250mm rods. After loosening the 12 bolts properly I removed 2 completely at opposite diagonals and replaced them with rods with nuts about half way up. Then when I removed the remaining bolts I could control the VB descent squarely and not lose the accumulator piston or the spool valve. This VB weighs 18lbs and on your own under a ramped car reinstalling is tough if you don't have the rod guides while you're trying to ensure the accumulator is positioned properly and nothing is pinched as you slide the VB up the rods to start a couple of bolts. Fernando's guide is nothing short of perfect. My only failing was not having a VCDS and trying the transmission resets using various anecdotal methods like gas down for x seconds etc, or pulling fuses 14/30 to reset TCM. Unlike Fernando, my Jetta is running horrible now even in tiptronic mode. I am waiting for a rented HEX USB CAN cable to arrive next week to do the resets properly and see if something else is amiss before deciding this VB is a dud. It also came from Street Smart and they are excellent at helping and will send another VB out if this one doesn't settle down. Will post later.

Great video. Thanks. About to do this for 2007 Jetta 2.5 with 67K miles and shifting issues and no codes. I love the rod guide idea for replacing VB but also if you choose 2 opposite holes after some bolts are removed you can insert the rods and loosely thread the nuts up to the VB. Then when you remove the final bolts, the VB is supported and you can gradually work it down the rods unthreading nuts as you go and control the point at which the damper/spring drops out so that it isn't damaged by falling.

Appreciate the video. Where did you get the manual from and why was this your second time replacing the valve body?

nice work. what do you charge?

Interesting video 👍

Where did you get the repair manual from

Fernando Eid Pires, Regarding reset the learned values, I made this following this video (thx for it) but my question is, re-learn the kick down, how it is working? After doing the reset in Trans window, went to engine basic setting and group 63 was not coming back again....(before it was visible) 60 it is show, 63 not anymore....

Muito bom!!

SHOW!!!

muito bom, parabéns!

Hi. I have beetle 07 2.5l transmission is compatible to jetta 09 2.5l.

Not nanometers, newton meters! Check!

A good primer in the work required to change the valve body. Thanks! I ended up using a floor jack to raise the valve body in to the case...made inserting the first couple bolts pretty easy. I'd use a jack also to ease removal of the last couple of bolts as well. Thank you!

Judging from the Ramps I'm worried for the rest of the video

Wowwwwww, I hate dealing with aftermarket parts at my shop. Aftermarket parts are a hit or miss😏

OEM people

Nm is for newton meter not for nanometers

do I need to evacuate system before replacing? also, does any oil fall out when replacing?

Thanks for the advise and useful tips. Nm = Newton meter is the measure of torque.

Fuck those pieces of shit specially the ones used in Hyundai cars never seen such shitty tech