Nice build-up, respect. Only one question: Doesn't block the transformer the air flow? The housing seems to be too small for your project. I really like the way you make your own front and rear panels. Thumbs up!

No high pitch squealing in this video mate, great fix , keep up the good work 🤙🏼🇦🇺

I can’t hear too much whining in today’s video compared to previous one. You can change the fans to noctua silent fans they are surprisingly silent.

any heating element, i would just nut-bolt them with heat paste and aluminum plate to the cabinet itself. since a meta cabinet is not too bad of a heat sink. but that was nice too.

Great work! That is much, much better! Also, I do like the new camera, do you mind sharing what camera it is?

I have an 8840/AF that I got in exchange for repairing 4 other 8840/AF's. They were sold at a government auction from the USAF repair center. To be blunt, the service techs at the repair center's skill set appeared to consist of the ability to read a repair flow-chart, and little else. The repair tags told embarrassing stories of government employee ineptitude. For instance, one of them had replaced an IC that their repair chart identified as defective. But when the unit still didn't work it went into the surplus sale. I desoldered the IC, turned it around the right way, soldered it back in, and the unit worked once again. So after a day and a half of repair work I was the proud owner of an 8840/AF that has now been on my bench for many years. While it may not be within calibration specs, (like you, I have no idea,) once I had repaired it I notated its values against what passes as references for me, and there has been close to zero change in any of the measured values, (right-hand digit stuff,) over a 15 year time frame. It's just very stable, which provides me with a lot of confidence in it. It's also very close to a used Agilent bench multi-meter I have, and my similar Keithley bench meter. All 3 are very stable over time. So for a hobbyist bench meter the old Fluke more than meets my needs. Thank you for your ongoing video series. I look forward to each of them.

No whine at all for me and I can't even hear the fans at the beginning so all's good ! I must say that front panel is beautiful ! we are so lucky to be able to have our ideas turned into reality nowadays and at a sensible price too...yeah 10/10 from me for artwork and functionality and what a great little series. I will be without doubt looking to build one myself based on your design if I may ! but I think I will design my PCB around a decent heatsink that I have lying around as they ain't cheap, don't think I will be able to improve your panel design !...Where can I find the last rev of the circuit please PCBWAY ? cheers.

I have a strong feeling that actually people tend to love listening to unhinged rants about incompetent/evil post services in a cathartic manner (self included). Or as an alternative, one can always disclaim "skip to the timestamp onscreen if you wish to skip this rant..." Hopefully there is a logical reason, that they can agree really quite well on Farads and Ohms, but not on Henries

Hows it going uneducated pedophile?

Hello brain dead muppet.

I like to measure my inductors with a NanoVNA.

I think you will like it. I have the rebranded one of these and like it a lot. I use it almost constant. The boards inside are the same but the name is RUOSHUI 4090C. Its a little less money and the only difference is the on button is rectangle and the colors on the front. In fact the FREG button has the same misspelling. LOL

I wrote a device definition for Test Controller for these units, if you need remote control for them.

I really appreciate the video. I don't comment a lot but I really do love your channel I would absolutely love to see a video explaining what these values mean. I'd love to know what else this meter is actually telling you about the component beyond if it just matches the capacitance on the label.

Nice ! I'm sure we will see it some more :)

Just a “stupid”question: but a 200W load is able to support 300W without damages?? Thanks in advance!

Should i buy this one or the Zoyi 703s if they are 10 dollars apart?

I bought one with a dim vfd on ebay no so cheap (UK premium) and the same led display covertion kit you showed but I haven't needed it, the vfd perked up perfectly fine with a few days use, just long term storage I guess, also have a solar tron 7150plus but much prefer to use the fluke

Volt nuts would say the the SZA263/LTFLU-1 reference used inside those is worth the price of admission alone. You can argue it could possibly rival the stability of the LTZ1000

I have two of these with the LED kits installed. The kits work well, digits are slightly scaled down from the original but completely readable. What surprised me, and as a few others have mentioned is that the calibrations of these units appears quite stable over such long time frames

I did some repair videos on the 8842, which is almost identical, I kept one unit as I was impressed with how accurate and stable it was, even though it hasn’t been calibrated in decades.

Very nice score. Those type of meters are confirmed rock solid as we used around 10 of them for almost 30 years in calibration at our R&D lab. There was never any need for readjustment but the displays are now completely dimmed. The 20V range also have high impedance which is very rare at such a class of instruments. Cheers

Very nice meter at a great price! The dim display photos on eBay are caused by multiplexed displays and fast shutters. Some times you can get a better idea of display functionality if there are multiple photos.

Nice fluke dmm. You lucked out to get one for that price.

Nice score! The 8840 is a great series of meters. I picked up an 8840A with an AC option a few years back at a Hamfest and it has been a very solid performer for me. I've found it especially impressive using 4 wire Kelvin clips for measuring resistance. I'm curious now what the AF designation means on your meter. Thanks for sharing this! - JRH

I would trust the Fluke more than I would the Siglent quite frankly. I have 2 independently sourced Fluke 45's and they both agree exactly. A great peice of engineering the Flukes!

Nice catch !

Nice pick up man! That thing will outlive us all.

Which camera are you using?

In your VDO it is appears that, the wiring of the test leads for your reference meter are not true kelvin connection. Any reason?

FNIRSI confirmed the known problem of misidentifying the leads of an NPN Transistor. . Hopefully the next firmware update will fix it.

A video explaining how to disassemble it step by step please

nozzle gets burnt up fast.

Thes soldering tips are just T12 😉

These desoldering iron are able to melt themselves by experience 😹

I bought one of those solder suckers. It came with the 120 volt plug but it would never get more than a little warm. I pulled the packaging out of the trash and it said 240 volts right on the package. I decided to take it apart and remove half of the heating wire. I finally got it to work but after seeing how they’re put together with bubblegum and twist ties and I couldn’t get it to a point that I felt safe using it so I threw it out. I did notice the smoking issue at first and think I attributed that to the very thin piece of fiberglass sleeving that is the only thing between the heating element and the rest of the device. After the new burned off the smoking stopped.

Just one comment regarding the desoldering tool: Remember to run the cleaning rod through the nozzle before switching it off. If solder blocks the tube, it can be a real pain to remove. The same applies to the vac pump gun type desoldering stations as well. Andy

I've always wondered if that desoldering iron was any good. Thanks for the review. I noticed the same thing with my T65 soldering iron. It's great that it's compatible with a lot of different tips but it's hard to know which ones to buy. I bought 2 well actually 3 sets of tips if you count the ones that never showed up. The SH72 tips are significantly longer that the T65 tips but I got some FM65 tips from Temu that seem to be the same as the T65. Of course they all seem to work perfectly fine.

I modified this kind of desoldering iron by adding electric vacuum pump. Works really well

Must be really cold where you are!

It's nice to stock up ! Regarding the chips for garden lights I too have thought that there must be other uses, that could be very interesting !

I was exicited about this until I notice the propritary tips. I instead decided to go with a soldering iron with the t12 tips that are more readily available. The control box is separate, but still small enough to not take up much space.

Of course they probably buy that cable from someone else. I have purchased those adapters before and I never thought to check it. I will now. Rather than fixing it you could just buy a new cable from Amazon. They are not expensive. Of course the damage is done now, but depends on what damage was done to the soldering iron. You might be able to repair it. What do you think of the hs-01 vs the hs-02. The tips on the hs-02 seem a bit weak compared to those on the hs-01.

I hope you let us know what the "mystery" problem turns out to be.

you should also have added a higher volt mod. either using a stepup transformer or using a special power plug for a higher voltage adapter. because these devices can get very inaccurate due to the low voltage they use, making it less acurate at some parts and even pretty much impossible to get good readings with some other parts. for example: 1. Mosfets RDSon is almost always very wrong with the lipo version since most mosfets need atleast 5v or more to properly turn on. 2. transistors can also get very wrong ratings in some cases. 3. and diodes with a higher reverse voltage drop can't be measured(could measure a few more with a higher voltage mod.). 4. can make it less noise sensitive if the method for higher voltage is stable and without to much ripple or noise. ofcource do first check how much voltage your device can handle as input, and often don't try to max it out. but you also very often see such devices powered by 9V batteries, and some with DC jack inputs. and I bet many people would be insterested in some easy and proven info about what kind of voltages it can actually handle. I would recommend adding someting like a switch to switch between high and low voltage mode, this is mostly since running it at lower voltage should be more safe for components which perhaps migth not handle the higher voltage and also slightly lower power usage and drawing directly from the lipo gives a stable voltage for sure.

A few clarifications to this video: - Not ALL 'scopes have a Trigger function, although virtually all 'modern' scopes have it. Older scopes, and some special-purpose modern scopes, did not/do not have Trigger functionality. - The model number of this 'scope starts with IO-, not 10-...... - Most 'scopes seem to be marked V/div and S/div, rather than V/cm and S/cm as this scope does. The 'cm' only makes sense if the 'scope's CRT graticule is set up with one division per cm. Since a great many 'scopes don't have a cm graticule, just referring to 'divisions' (div) makes more sense generically. - Some of the narration is confusing since the narrator's eye level is considerably higher than the level of the camera lens, thus the 'scope's "trace" appears lower relative to the graticule.

I wouldn't rely on the aliexpress adds for future reference, a few times I have gone back through my orders to see details, and if the product is no longer available, AE will not take you back to the add or the description page

hi...sometime ago i put a battery from an old internet mobile router on my tester...works just fine and lasts wayyyyyyyy longer... i added wires and crcodiles instead of banana plugs...

Not bad. Obviously you need to find out exactly why the burn up happened. But it does look promising.

Thanks for testing out the concern i had with heatsink. I am also in the process of building a DC load for about two year now, its a side project. My goal was to make a battery capacity tester and also use the same hardware as a load, it has both digital and analog control. Routing of control signal is done with analog switch. Now about your wire desoldeing off of the battery, this usually happens when you connect a live supply across the mosfet Drain and Source. So depending on which terminal connects first, mosfet will behave differently, I have damaged countless mosfets in the process of finding out where the issue is. After much research on how commercial LOADs are managing(basically i looked at their schematic available online) the live supply connected to them, I found that they put another switch in the path of mosfet to keep it turned off and they also use soft-start mechanism, and only turn on the switch when it is necessary. In my project I am using LTC4368-2 hot-swap controller, i made a small evaluation board for this and currently put this in series with the LOAD mosfet on high side and the control signal goes to the mcu to on/off the live supply such as a battery. My goal is to test 12S to 1S li-ion batteries, I have tested the current design with 6S packs, it works fine. Earlier I was testing with 2S packs ~8V with IRLZ44N mosfets which are 55V rated parts and they were getting damaged, also there is another reason for the damages are, that the long wires from the battery to the load increases the stray inductance which causes huge voltage spikes when connected to load circuit. I put a small 22uf electrolytic cap on drain-source which helped dampen those ringing of voltage spikes saved the mosfets. Now I am using IRFB4332PBF which has very good SOA for DC application. I also have those linear mosfets from ixys IXTK90N25L2, I want to test them too. All the parts i used were from digikey/mouser so it wasnt that i was using knockoff parts which were getting damaged randomly it was because of my skill issue. I learned LAODs of thing from this project particularly in terms of writing my own firmware in C and designing the HMI for the load. Sorry if all this is in unorganized order.