Can't believe there's not more views on this. It sounds like something you'd hear on TV. Good writing, performance and production. Thanks for sharing.

great video, I'm doing this now and there are some really good tips here

I agree with you man, asthetically the truss rod hole on a headstock looks crap, i don't like them either. That was some effort you put in there! Wow! lol...i was thinking sbout doing that on an old japanese squire neck i have, but I think I'll pass after watching your vid and the nightmare you had trying to sort it lol ...A++++ for effort and determination though 👍 😎 pity these heel spoke wheek adjusters weren't around back in years gone by like they are starting to come through now. that way everyone is potentialky happy 👍 people can adjust the neck st the heel without having to take the neck off and the headstock avoids an ugly looking hole. Fender need to get with the program and start using these spoke wheel adjusters themselves. My two main strats sre partcasters. The rosewood necks are from elsewhere, not fender, because at the time of writing this post, they don't do any necks with spoke wheel at the heel.For me personally they are coolio, i get the classic 60's strat look i like the best on the headstock but i can easily sort out a truss rod adjust if i need too 👍

I would like a modern style locking tuner but with the old greenish plastic tuner keys! I like the look!

Very helpful information, thank you!

No one talks about this. Same with Martin acoustics. Really large washers that hurt the aesthetics of the guitar. I just put butterbean open back tuners on my cheaper martin. Looks so much better. My les paul is from 2002 so already has small washers and the vintage look.

I just learned the aged knobs for my strat (the universal kid) don’t fit my powerhouse strat pots . So I help this works.

Look up the new tool called "Fret Maestro". The videos I have seen on it look very interesting.

Goldtop & Bigsby gives me strong Joey Santiago vibes. Nice.

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product! I will say though that I doubt I would have gone to the level of detail you went through to get your pickguard exactly how you want it. Also, I'm the type of guy who would have ruined the one you went with by trying the techniques on the new one instead of the old Epiphone pickguard. I'm a bit odd that way.

Hey Nathan, thanks for sharing your meticulously researched data. You’re becoming a great resource for very specific guitar specs.

Here is an update/supplement to this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2bbZYyrrtWYjdU. The leather dye didn't remain on the dot markers over time, and so I eventually replaced the dots with darker "aged clay" dots.

Bro has a Marv T-shirt, he's won in life

Thanks for your video !

My 335 had a nashville that had sunk really bad. Just took an abr1 slightly enlarged holes n it works perfectly, but ya need to do a clean job on the holes.

Your spray booth is genius. Thanks for the idea.

I love the coffee mug for sure but I can't afford the quad cortex but this pedal has alot of features for such a small pedal.

I tried something similar with my charvel. Wanted the toothpaste logo, got my dad to make a waterslide for me. Applied it after sanding and staining. But without a layer of paint under it. I used Nitro clear without softeners, it should crack faster. It cracked while drying on the waterslide. Maybe because i didnt lacquer the headstock

so good 🎉

The LR Baggs Anthem in my Emerald guitar died within a few months, in the middle of the song, while plugged into an Ampero II Stomp, that was routed into an A&H SQ5. Swapping the battery did not help. The purveyor of my 12 String Emerald carbon fiber replied "this has never happened, as if it couldn't happen, and he basically refused to stand by his and LR-Baggs warranty. And out of 5 of his guitars, this was the first warranty request! after spending $~10,000, this was quite shoddy!

I came in mainly curious about the neck pickup since I’m about to trade one of my guitars for a Tele that has a Duncan Designed tele bridge pickup and a Duncan Designed JM neck pickup. I already know I’m gonna swap the Tele pickup for a Chopper T, so I needed to know if it would be worth keeping the Jazzmaster pickup, and I gotta say I’m shocked at just how good that sounds.

I think it came out really well. I share the same dislike for the truss rod adjustment being at the headstock., to me it looks cheap and distracts from the overall look of the headstock. What I’d like to try is replacing the truss rod nut on a Squire neck with a Bullet truss rod nut. I’m not sure of the thread size of the Squires truss rod so I don’t know if the Bullet adjuster will fit. Good job man!

you the musician cares kind of like when you build something and there's a mistake and someone says no one will know it's there and you say but I will.

I am so old that I don't care if the headstock says Epiphone or Squire.

Yeah, the modern size holes in Fender are 10.5 mm. I think Kluson makes a different adapter for those.

Looks great Nathan!

I've been looking for a Road Warn body for a similar project for some time. Any ideas or references to get a similar Butterscotch Blonde color that is only slightly translucent with the light undercoat? Thanks

Are you still using them and how do you like them? Does it stay in tune easier and did it change the tone of guitar drastically or not?

Does anyone know how it holds up over time? Especially when played by someone with aggressive sweat?

Did I miss the part where you drill the headstock for the extra screws of the Klusons? I'm considering this swap in my LP to save some weight, any idea how much lighter the Klusons were? And did you notice a difference in how the guitar balances?

As a wood finisher, boat painter, occasional car, etc, there is zero special about nitro, or cheap one part lacquer in general like you're using which isn't nitro based. The problem with that stuff you're using is it's not thinned down for the base coats and won't sink into the wood. However, it's light years better than poly, or poly type mixes, oil, etc, for a guitar because it looks, feels, and plays good. You can buy a cheap sprayer, some nitro, thin and tint depending on coat process, all for cheaper than buying those tint cans plus the cheap HD cans, fyi. The entire reason relics are popular is because old-school nitro wore out quick, making a guitar look worn. But, it still is the best choice imho. And a 120$ thinline! Wtf

How'd you dull the Chrome, ..steel Wool?

.. nickel plated brass

..I like the dulled aluminum and black

Hey Nathan, What are the disadvantages to installing tuners so that the tuner knob axles are CLOSER to the bridge than the tuner peg axles? For that orientation, are sealed tuners strong enough to prevent the string tension from pulling the tuner peg gear away from the tuner knob gear?

On my 97 Jaoanese Jaguar i put a drinking straw over the end of the trem arm and it holds it perfectly stable for about 4 or 5 years, before replacing

Thanks 😎

The problem with Dave's wood putty is that it was a little too dark to start with. I've used a light fleshy color putty (very very close to the Fimo flesh color, if not identical) and really liked the result. Doesn't look exactly like or even ages the same as the harvite dots I made years ago, but close enough.

The Wammy Bar will add tone, I pulled one off an SG and the SG lost some of its Dark Rich Tone. I may put it back on. So be careful not to screw up a Guitar just because everyone says its better, it may not be.

Been playing these things for 62+ years. Back in the early '70s, we used linseed oil to dress boards in my brother's Tallahassee music store. Since then, I have used all kinds of stuff ... I think my favorite was Formby's Lemon Oil. But that went into history, some how. These daze, I have returned to linseed oil. Cheap and does a real fine job. And guess what ... I remember Fender -- in the early days of rosewood boards -- recommending 3-In-1 oil ...

I like 'em. They seem to have disappeared from the music industry these days, in 2024.

Chainlube stiffens the tuners up its very sticky , it doesnt wear off to soon (understatement )

Just as a heads up, that "pre-action" in your Bigsby arm where it's depressed 1/2" before it truly engages means there's a problem with your Bigsby. And it's not the spring. There's not supposed to be slack in your Bigsby arm. It's supposed to respond immediately to whatever pressure you apply. Flip the Bigsby arm over, make sure the plastic washer is seated underneath the spring and not on top in the recess of the Bigsby arm. Then tighten the little nut where the arm pivots. That nut has a spring loaded lock washer underneath it. If you tighten that nut until the lock washer is compressed your Bigsby will have no slack and it will function the way Paul Bigsby intended. Your Bigsby will respond immediately and evenly, even when only light pressure is applied to the arm. It is a HUGE improvement. It will impact the "flutter and fluidity" you refer to much more than a new spring. But I'm sure your spring recommendation is a great suggestion.

If I had an Epi, I'd reshape the head as well.

I’m starting to piece together my partscaster. For some reason I’ve always loved the “trouble maker” strats… aka Stratocaster with Telecaster headstock. Musikraft makes it super easy to put a strat heal on a tele neck, so this is probably the route I’m going. Similar companies also don’t offer clay inlays and that’s a look I’d always regret not going with on the dark rosewood. Going to use a MJT body and a prewired pick gaurd from Bare Knuckle to round it out. The only decision I haven’t made yet is if I’m using tele or strat decals on the headstock 😂

Are those plugged into different circuits? Or same circuit with one outlet way down the line from the other?

You start yanking bridge bushings/inserts and now you have to worry about the bridge grounding wire contacting the new insert correctly

Did you just use the mounting screws that were already on your squier tremelo or does the new one come with its own mounting screws? Thanks

Thank you for sharing all of this. You do a great job on the videos too.

You really butcher the pronunciation of Faber. Both syllables wrong. 🤣 Can’t do a drop test on an Ikea table… Use some Teflon tape, on the bridge post insert. It will stop wobbling. You have a Gibson, yet you cheap out on the bridge? 🤦 Hopeless.