You’d want to pump the levers before removing the syringe or funnel from the bleed port and you would need to make sure the bleed block is in place, so you don’t overfill your system. We pump the brake levers after the entire bleed to make sure the brakes are no longer spongy. If you need further help, feel free to email us: [email protected]

SO glad you found it helpful! You're awesome :)

Happy to help! No, there isn't a specific reason why we did it this way. You can close the bleed port right after you remove the tubing if you'd like! :)

We're so sorry to hear you had a bad experience with our tutorial. If you look at the 2 minute mark, Libbi begins to open the bleed port on the lever (upper bleed screw). Directly after, she says to check your syringe is smooth and screw the adapter and tubing into the bleed port. If you have any questions, please comment back here or email us ([email protected]) and we would be happy to help!

Essentially, when the bleed port at the lever is closed first, it’s comparable to covering one end of a straw with your finger and the water holding because of the greater air pressure under the straw. So that's why we remove the bleeding tube from the lever first in order to close the lever bleed port first. You can remove the bleeding tube from the caliper first only if you use a tube clamp at the lever. If you choose to pump the levers while bleeding your brakes, just make sure the bleed block is in place.

Happy to help!! :)

Yes, you could use a funnel at the top. Are you saying you tried it with the funnel and it didn't work? If you bought a kit from us that was supposed to have more fittings/hoses and didn't receive them, please email us at [email protected], and we will send you the parts you are missing!

@ no i bought a different kit off amazon, thank you though. I wanted to use the 2 syringes but couldnt. I saw another video about taking the lid off and watching the bubbles come out the hole in the cylinder and that worked great. Still not as strong as id like. Its probably my pads and rotors but it works a little bit better than how it was when i started

😂

We edit out the part of us struggling to unscrew some of them XD

The old oil goes into the syringe at the bleed port on the lever :)

Awesome! So glad you found it helpful!!

I guess Shimano must've felt the same way. Glad they changed it :)

Drilling a hole in the lever syringe has two purposes. First, it allows air to escape when pushing fluid through the brake line from the caliper. This makes pushing the fluid easier due to less resistance. Then, covering the hole with your finger when you remove the syringe prevents oil from leaking out. It’s comparable to covering one end of a straw with your finger and the water holding because of the greater air pressure under the straw. Let us know if that makes sense! And if you don't have the tools for it, we can send you a pre-drilled syringe :)

@@bleedzonekits after drilling it need to put back the plunger am i right?because i want to bleed my magura mt7.hope this is the best solution.i will try it

Yes, you would put the plunger back. If you need any further assistance, feel free to comment back here or email us!

Haha thank you. Just sharing some of that bleeding knowledge with the community :)

yup, this is a full bleed one too, usually ppl just have vids on the lever bleed which is not as concise

haha thanks

You're so welcome!

yeah ofc :D

DOT 3 oil reduces the boiling point and absorbs water, so it's not recommended. Hayes recommends DOT 4 or 5.1 fluid only.

So glad it was helpful!! <3

Happy to help!! :)

Any of our bleed kits for Tektro brakes are compatible with the HD-E350 model!

Yes, it's the same process! Reach out if you have any more questions.

From our research, Radius brakes need a threaded adapter at the caliper. It seems like the size that's needed are the M6 adapters found in Tektro bleed kits, and we have a tutorial for Tektro brakes on our channel that may give you a better idea of what that caliper bleed port looks like if you're having trouble finding it. Hope that helps, and feel free to reach out if you have any additional questions!

@@bleedzonekitsI have watched several videos on how to bleed your bike breaks and i’ve looked all around the break caliper and there is no bleed nipple. is it still possible to do a full fluid change without the nipple?

So there won't be a bleed nipple, but there is still a bleed port. That's where you would put the threaded adapter. Here is our Tektro bleed tutorial. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3eWgYukrs15a7c It should provide some clarity, but if not, we are happy to help!

Great question! Fully pushing back the pistons and then inserting the block to keep them in place will ensure that the proper amount of brake fluid is in the system both during and after the bleed process. If you overfill the system by not using a bleed block to push back the pistons, that could lead to the brake pads not fully retracting, which would cause them to rub the rotor. Overfilling can also prevent the pistons from getting pushed back after the bleed, which can lead to difficulty when installing new brake pads due to the insufficient space from the extra fluid. Hope this helps, and let us know if you have any other questions :)

We’re sorry for the confusion. We reviewed the bleed kit listing that’s linked in this KZbin tutorial, and it makes no mention of Zoom brakes. While we don’t have a Zoom tutorial just yet, bleeding your Zoom brakes should be very similar to [bleeding Tektro brakes](kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3eWgYukrs15a7c) OR our [Tektro tutorial video](kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3eWgYukrs15a7c) would mostly closely match the bleed process for Zoom hydraulic brakes. However, with you having an older Shimano style reservoir, I can see why you choose this video. I am a bit confused and would need some clarity to give you a more accurate answer. Did you purchase a kit specifically made for Zoom brakes? Or did you need to purchase one for Zoom brakes specifically (we do have one available)? We are happy to help in any of your bleeding needs!

@@bleedzonekits I had 2 bleed kits already, but I did not know the correct procedure for my Zoom brakes and obviously wasn't having any luck up top without removing the cover. So I ordered a 3rd kit, your Zoom brakes bleed kit. I was more frustrated that the seller of the brakes included no info despite many reviews stating that they couldn't bleed the brakes. I did return your kit, but there wasn't any issue, it's just that I didn't need it, but I didn't know that. I had more than I needed with the first two kits. I had been working on my car all week and was without transportation trying to bleed the brakes on my bike so I could get parts for the car.

@@BigFarm_ah365 Try a gravity flush/bleed. No kit needed. Maybe an empty bottle to catch the fluid at the bottom. Just have to keep topping it up at the reservoir if you don't have a dedicated port of bleeding at the reservoir.

You'll do great!! Don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions or concerns :)

@@bleedzonekits oh noes! I have wrong screws :/ I have shimano kit and definitely not compatible with my tektro, nevermind, ordered the universal set :)

Whoa, that was a rollercoaster! Glad to hear you figured it out!!

@@bleedzonekits i managed to do it with a borrowed kit :) brakes perfect now!! thanks for the hints, we had finally a careless ride with my daughter yesterday, no more spongy brakes :) well, 4000 km driven and 3rd set of brake pads.. lots of bubbles there were :)

1. You're awesome - Great tip to remember!! 2. Yes, SO important to make sure the syringe is free of air!! Thanks for watching!! :)

You can have the lever and caliper leveled or angled! No matter how they are positioned relative to each other, the oil would stay in the hydraulic system because opening the caliper bleed port is comparable to the scenario of covering one end of a straw with your finger and the liquid inside holding because of the greater air pressure under the straw. When opening the lever bleed port you would want to make sure that it is leveled, but otherwise, the oil also wouldn't leak when opening the port because the lever is at a higher point.

So glad this video helped you!! :)

Happy to help!!

Hey there!! Thanks for commenting!! It sounds like you may have bought the wrong kit. You'll need one that has adapters. Here are some of the ones we sell. Please reach out if you have anymore questions!! :) Pro Kit: www.amazon.com/dp/B08F29P2MG Master Kit: www.amazon.com/dp/B08CSYBXDJ Standard Kit: www.amazon.com/dp/B08F147Z36 Basic Kit: www.amazon.com/dp/B08DLFM4JL

Thanks for watching :)

Are you having issues with oil coming out? Removing the syringe from the lever first and closing the bleed port may help reduce oil leakage. However, even in our video removing the fitting at the caliper first with the lever slightly higher than the caliper had minimal oil leakage. Essentially, when the bleed port at the lever is closed first, it’s comparable to covering one end of a straw with your finger and the water holding because of the greater air pressure under the straw. We are starting the clean up process at 03:26, so no, the oil shouldn't be coming out again except for maybe some slight leakage. Please reach out if you have any further questions!!

It all depends on a person’s preference. We have plenty of affordable kits with only the basics you need or kits with the tools that you buy once and keep to reuse for all your bleeding needs 😊

Woohoo - thanks for the great feedback!! Happy riding!! :)

@@bleedzonekits You're welcome 👍!

We're sorry to hear it got a little messy, but stoked you were able to fix your brakes! <3 A helpful tip could be trying to level the caliper and lever on a bike stand to possibly reduce the mess!

We knew you could do it! :)

Hey there - sorry to hear our bleed process isn’t working out for you! I don’t think it’s your brake lines, as you can see the oil rise when you are applying pressure to the lever. I would suggest try pushing oil out through the syringe/tubing while it isn't connected to the bleed port. If oil is coming out then it’s most likely your caliper that is needing replaced.

@@bleedzonekits thanks for your advice. I had to screw the lever completlely back, then the channel was open 👍

No problem - happy to help!! :)

Thanks for the feedback!

Yes, the bleed block will work but not well. We have had some customers say they used a rubber band or the velcro fasteners included in the kit to help keep the block in place. At the moment we do not have a bleed block designed specifically for 4 piston brakes.

Thanks for your insight! With our method, there shouldn’t be any air left in your system, but we’re glad that your brakes are working well for you.

Thank you for your question. You will need to fill only one syringe (at the caliper) with the oil to push the fluid through the system.

Thanks for your feedback, and we’re sorry to hear you still have air in your brakes! Could you clarify what steps are missing? Our bleed process is designed to remove all the air by pushing new fluid through the brake system, and we and many other viewers have had no issues with the bleed process in our tutorial.

So sorry to hear that you were having trouble with our tutorial! Yes, there is a syringe attached to the tubing at the brake lever that acts as a kind of funnel, and you do drain the old fluid out by pushing new fluid through the brake system. If your brakes have been bled correctly and they’re still not working, you could have a leak in your system. Even the smallest leak in your brakes will allow air to enter the lines and negatively affect your brake performance. Common leak-prone areas in the system include the caliper from damaged seals and the hydraulic fluid lines often from corrosion. You might want to check the fittings at the ends of the brake line and the master cylinder cap screws as well. Another issue could be that your brake pads are worn out. If you bleed your brakes again, put the brake pad, all the caliper parts, and the wheel back without removing the funnel, and then pump the lever until it’s firm. When the brake pads are worn out, you might need extra fluid and often bubbles could be trapped at the lever. Unfortunately, due to the many Tektro brake models, we were not able to cover all the methods of removing the brake pads in one video, but we’re glad you were able to get instructions from your brake manufacturer. If you’re still having issues, definitely let us know and we’ll work to figure this out with you.

Okay :)

It’s optional, but if you feel resistance when you’re pushing fluid from the caliper, pulling slightly on the syringe at the lever could help relieve some pressure from the system!

We're glad our video is clear! We appreciate you!! :)

So glad you enjoyed our video! Thanks for commenting!!

Our bleed block is designed to fit all mountain bike brake calipers, but we are so sorry to hear that it didn't work for you! Was the bleed block too small or too large? If you can message us directly at [email protected], we can try to troubleshoot for you.