The P trap is removable so it can be drained for the winter. The dirt and ground insulates pretty well. So just the exposed parts are at risk. Could probably install a pipe warmer to prevent freezing too if you wanted to run it all winter.

I don’t remember which one exactly, but they are all the same on Amazon. The purpose of the video was not so much a how to but more of a creative idea and adapting something to work. Another idea I had was to take apart the soft close and 3D print a longer trigger lever. Maybe I’ll get around to that someday.

Really? You find something helpful and all you can do is criticize? You’re welcome to use your mute button 😉

I have my moments, 😉 you’re welcome!

We do sell the Freedom Clamps separate. I wouldn’t say they are universal but they do work with most standard tracks on the market that come with round spacers. We have special instructions for installing them with a 3rd party kit. The one major change are the holes drilled in the door. Freedom Clamps require a little extra space between the door and the track. If you have a door that was pre-drilled for another system then the holes will need to be filled and re-drilled to work with our brackets. So just be aware of that.

No, it’s specifically designed for stud mount

@@NeaterNestTo bad. I like your design. I was really hoping you would have designed one for ceiling mount as well. Thank you.

Yes, that’s just for freedom clamp. It’s a process we came up with because people wanted to use their own rollers and with different sizes, we needed a 1 size fits all, so that method works.

This is a comparison between a standard kit which is pre-drilled every 16 inches, and our hardware which is adjustable to the stud spacing. Not all studs are 16 inches apart. Especially around doorways. You want to talk about misleading? How about all these standard kits that make it look so easy to install and every lag going into a stud. I guarantee that almost never happens unless you plan for it during construction and add extra blocking. People get them on Amazon and think it’s a simple DIY and turns out not being safe at all. I’ve been to houses where the doors are falling off the track and the lags completely missed the studs. If you have never installed hardware like this before you don’t know you’re about to have a big problem until you get that cheap kit home and start drilling holes in your wall. That’s why people use our system instead.

Yes we do sell the track with no holes. Some guys actually like to source their own track locally from bar stock as long as it’s the right dimensions.

Yes, if you bought a kit with holes drilled already and they magically line up with your studs then consider yourself lucky.

😂 haha. Right? It’s funny because I was always having a hard time figuring out what to call it. “External blocking”? Header board seemed to be the most commonly used description amongst DIYers.

Hey Matt, I love solving problems so we should talk. neaternest.com/pages/contact-us

Always!

That’s always good. But I ran into a problem the other day on a job. Blocking was installed but the wall was not plumb. The bottom plate was kicked out so far that the door was dragging. Freedom Clamps to the rescue. I added the extenders to the back and that shimmed out the track enough to keep the door from dragging.

@@NeaterNest caulk and paint make a framer what he ain’t

We currently don’t have anything for sale to do a double rail. But we do have a design in the works. I’d be happy to discuss this further with you if you contact Neater Nest. Ask for Eric and reference this conversation. We can talk about your needs and see if we can come up with a solution for you.

Thank you!

All the details are in the link in the description. neaternest.com/collections/adjustable-barn-door-hardware Next time, try a compliment sandwich. It will be received better than an insult. How would you feel if someone said this to you? “Your face is ugly but your family is rich… wanna go on a date?” That’s essentially what you did. I’ve learned to not be offended because I can’t please everybody. Let me know if there are specific details you want to know after exploring the link above. We sell both the complete kits as well as the brackets alone.

Yes. Typically the floor gap is between 1/2” and 1-inch. If there is carpet, you don’t want it too close because of moisture. And in general you want to allow for any house movement or sometimes floors are not level so you may have a small gap on one side and larger on the other.

@@NeaterNest I have tile. You think 1/2 would be good? I’m about to install the clamps I received from you.

Yes, I think 1/2 is good for tile.

@@NeaterNest thanks!

@@NeaterNest what about if you have carpet now but plan to replace with composite wood later?

That’s a great idea. Not sure if it’s technically possible to do that on a huge production line with the existing process but thanks for the suggestion!

Thanks, I explain more about my process, the good and bad, on my blog. neaternest.com/blogs/projects/grow-your-own-food-with-this-self-watering-raised-bed-garden

Yes! 11 inches is plenty. You only need 6. The instructions come with links to the videos. I’ll make sure to update the website with more videos in the FAQ and spec section.

Yep! Locate the studs and you should have 1 every 16-24 inches or so.

Thanks! I’ll be sure to run my music selection by you next time and get your approval. Because it’s important to me that I please everyone. 😉 I have other video content besides this. I had no intention of making this a tutorial. It’s literally me hacking through my thought process and designing on the fly. There are no skills to be learned here. This is all art. Think about a painter making a mural. Would you watch an hour long tutorial of them explaining how they are painting it? I learn a lot from watching others work on YT. Seeing their process and getting ideas. I’m sorry it didn’t meet your standards. For the record, this was over 2 years ago and my newer content performs much better. It served its purpose to document my project. That’s it.

The nice thing about DIY is that you can always change it and do it differently. I realize that everyone has their opinion. We really like the color and it fits our decor. It feels very classy. Plus you’re forgetting the golden rule… Happy wife, Happy life!

@@NeaterNest I love it, and the choice of color is super cool! Very chic, clean. deep, dramatic look. Very nice, modern, contrasting element. I like to walk through professionally designed model homes and I see such deep dark accent walls alllot, and they always look great. Beautiful! Great job, guys!

We’ve got them back in stock. Limited quantity available right now.

Thanks for the question. The short answer is that our brackets can be adapted to work in almost any situation. But there are a few things to work around. 1. Extending the hangers. You would need to do this yourself. But you would no longer have jump protection. Something needs to keep the door from jumping off the track in the event of an accident. 2. Double bypass can be done with our hardware but again you have to sacrifice the jump protection for the outside door. In your situation where you would be extending the hangers anyway, this wouldn’t be an issue. Last I would just mention that we have had several customers install the hardware by mounting to the transom beam and they look great. But that may not fit your design idea. Feel free to shoot us an email and I’d be happy to brainstorm other ideas with you.

Thank you. Any chance your clients shared photos of mounting them to the transom trim?

@@traceynix2256 my very first install was actually on a transom where we converted an open cove to a closet. I built out the top with 1x4s and glass then hung a sliding door below it. Those photos are on our website.

Hi there can I buy everything from u or u just sell hardware I need a barn door Iim going to install it myself but just wondering if I can order everything i need from u

You’re right Mitch. I had planned to have my garage door guy come out to add tension to the springs after installing the insulation. I have 3 kids so there is a lot of open, close happening and it broke before a tech could come out. I’ll do just about any DIY but I don’t do springs. I eventually did get them adjusted and it’s all working great now.

So we don’t have our soft close fully developed yet. I came up with a hack a long time ago and you can check it out here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e3jKdmx9lr2Dnsk

I’m so sorry. You should be okay as long as you get some good air flow in the crawl space to dry it out. Our sub floor got pretty wet and it ended up warping our engineered hardwood. I still have not replaced it as the kids are young and destroying our floor anyway. Good luck! Get a drip pan under there for future.

Thank you! It is fun and I hope they remember these times as a family. It does give them a sense of ownership in the place we call home. Working hard doesn’t always have to be work though, it can be fun too.

Awesome! Sounds like a cool project. Feel free to reach out if you need some help planning out materials to cover such a large space.

for sure... but one thing at a time. When we built the house 10 years ago we had to make a lot of decisions. Many of which we knew we would be changing later. This fan was one of those... With 3 kids it takes a lot of time and money to overhaul the house. So we just keep chipping away at these things. I am considering painting the fan white to disappear more into the ceiling. But changing it out might be the way we go when we get there...

@@NeaterNest yeah I had the same fan as yours and changed it into one with a 4 blade retractable fan/light. Made the whole room look much bigger. Was lucky to find it on sale for $180 at Lowes. The same fan is now on Wayfair for over $400!

Sorry, this is late and you probably already fixed it. Not all GE dishwashers use the same parts, but sometimes they do. Check out www.appliancepartspros.com/ I use them for all my repairs. You can look up your model and see the schematic to find the right part. Good Luck!