@@vickybagley1967 yes should be ok but make sure the baton doesn’t encroach on the area where the bottle bottom retainer sits, if it’s a problem you could fit a smaller baton either side in the corners,

@@thatdamnmackem thank you 😊

Thank you, The blue and white cable is the live feed to the reversing light in the tail lights, wiring to this cable allows power to go to the monitor and the camera only when reverse gear is selected, meaning your monitor will come on when you place the vehicle into reverse, if you have a system that can be used at any time you would need to use a different power source. I don't have the van any more so can't give you any suggestions but any permanent live would do, the easiest and in my opinion the best way to connect the wires is with cable solder butt connectors, these connectors weren't available when I did my conversion but would be the option I would choose if doing another, hope this helps, good luck with your build

@@thatdamnmackem Thank you so much for your reply, sir. Yes, I also want the power to go to the monitor and the camera only when reverse gear is selected. I want to do exactly what you did. Your video is by far the best on KZbin regarding this matter. I understand that the blue white cable serves as a power source. I'm not sure only regarding the thick blue wire. Is it the power wire from the monitor, meaning I need additional wire coming from the front of the van (where the monitor is placed) up to the rear part of the van, to be connected to the blue white wire, together with the positive wire of the camera, right? Did you use scotch locks for this particular connection? Connection steps are: cut the blue white wire and connect it on one end and on the other end of the connector attache power wires from the monitor and camera, as well as blue white wire, right? Also, both negative wires (namely from the camera and monitor) will go to the van grounding, correct? Thanks for your feedback once again.

@@marin87mne Sorry can't remember anything about a thick blue wire, I ran a thick 2 core black cable extension from the front to the rear to enable me to use the power from the rear to power the monitor, I assume that is the one you are referring to, otherwise you will have to power the monitor from a different power source, if you want to do this you can access the same blue/white reversing light cable from under the passenger side A pillar cover that runs down the windscreen to the dash. Using the cable suggested connect the live and the negative from the monitor to the cable at the front, make sure to make a note of which colour cable you use for the live if the cables in the extension are different colours to that on the monitor live. Yes you are correct, At the rear of the van connect the live of the extension to the live of the rear camera and connect both to the blue/white reversing cable, don't cut it, just remove a section of the outer sheath, and yes earth them both negatives to the van bodywork remembering to remove any paint to achieve a good earth. Yes I used Scotch locks for some connections and simple cable connecters for others however as mentioned in the video I never trust scotch locks as I've had problems with them in the past on some cables and when using always remove the cable sheathing at the joint, defeats the object of using them but stops any problems occurring. But as I said the solder type are much better, also all the joints will need to be covered with heat shrink or tape to stop any shorts. You will probably find two blue/white cables at the rear depending where you access them, you can use either as they both power a reversing light on each side of the van. Another point I should make is that the extension should have a rubberised outer sheath, normal cabling is prone to cracking due to vibration from the van and will break down over time. I used it for all my two core work except for any droppers and for the three core I used Artic Blue heavy duty, maybe this is the cable you were referring to, hope this helps

@@marin87mne Sorry just rewatched the video, the blue cable you are referring to is one of the cables in the extension

@@thatdamnmackem Thanks for your prompt reply, it is literally perfect! I hope many other people will find it helpful! Thanks for your effort again, sir!

Thank you

Many thanks

just takes time and planning, good luck with it

Many thanks, glad you liked it

Sorry can’t remedy now but I will have mentioned it in the video

The adhesive is a special type for bonded windows , not Sikaflex. I found that a full tube was sufficient for the side door window but the driver's side took more, around 1 1/4 tubes with it being a larger window, you shouldn't have any excess squeezing out as there is ample area to apply it to allow for flattening, but any small smudges can be cleaned with isopropolol achohol

nice one, cheers

Many thanks, much appreciated

Many thanks for the kind comments. glad you like it

I did I used foam insulation board check out the full build on my channel

Thank you, glad you like it

Many thanks 👍

Many thanks, much appreciated

Thanks they are upvc wall and ceiling boards, this video shows them although if I were doing another I would use wood cladding as they are a little brittle. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJaao2ikaZh8o5Isi=L6nuvDlox8dvTG2n

Ha ha thanks marra 👍

Yes gloss vinyl, got them from ebay, sorry can't remember where

Thanks however it has now gone to a new home

@@thatdamnmackem you sold it?

Yes to someone who watched the build from the beginning,

No made from scratch with plywood

Many thanks

Thanks

Thanks the angled piece behind the side window is just vinyl

Many thanks

Many thanks

Thetford C263CS cassette

Many thanks mate, it was a great project

Many thanks, it's called a 90° Mitre Corner or Angle Clamp

Many thanks, much appreciated

Van conversion was around £8.5k

Thanks you can find them on E-Bay under upvc shower wall and ceiling panels

Thanks Lindsay much appreciated mate

Where can I get those backgrounds

Yes I remember when Ally McCoist played for Sunderland (my home team) didn't work out for him here and he went on to great things at Rangers, must have been the English air 😂, hands down it's still my most productive lure, I only tie it with the Ally fritz from Flybow now

@@thatdamnmackem the Rangers fans are brittish staunch through and through No Surrender.

Many thanks. Happy to answer any questions if I can, it will be for sale soon if you want a ready made one lol 😆

@@thatdamnmackem That would depend £?

@@PtangPtangBiscuitBarrelSmith 24k

Many thanks. You're welcome to have a look around the van if you are in the North east, just drop me message, don't know who Nigel is though lol🙂 Brian

@@thatdamnmackem no worries thank you Brain! I’m a bit far but if I’m ever up that way I’ll be there 😄

Glad it was of some help, think the best advice I can give is to take your time planning before you go ahead with the cut, and clean your bodywork well before applying the primer, also if you are using a jigsaw as I did it creates a lot of very hot tiny shards which can stick to your paintwork so I protected the surrounding bodywork with dust sheets when I did the other windows, good luck with it

Hi, the level indicators came together with and are part of the Sargent Controller that I used for the electrics, hope this helps

@@thatdamnmackem Many thanks.

Thank you

Many thanks

Thanks glad you liked it

I used a stick on one but I remember it needed 24hrs to cure before use

Thanks, glad you like the build, sorry I didn't do a vid on the sink as it's a very easy install, just need to leave enough room for the pipework, good luck with your build

@@thatdamnmackem OK quick question and thanks for reply 👍. Waste what did you use . Standard half inch domestic? Or a small version. Got my head around the tap install. Not 100% sure on Waste. Only got the sink and mixer. Tia

@@thatdamnmackem just looking under it . The hole is small. I got it new from ebay but no waste attachment. Can you point me in the right direction to purchase a waste fitting for it . Love your wet room mine is almost identical and your videos helped a lot .

@@MrLodonlondon I snapped the waste that came with my sink ( doesn't take much to crack them) I replaced it with a standard camper 3/4" angled waste outlet, as they fit to the dometic sinks, easy to find on ebay like this one, www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184705446918?epid=1628750134&hash=item2b014d7406:g:UhUAAOSwkiZgSfR4

Just purchased it . A gargantuan help thank you ever so much. 🙏 many thanks !

Glad it was of some help

No problem 👍

You do that is why there is a 50mm lip at the bottom of the door as explained in the video, but remember this box will not pass any safety inspections, it is just for folks who want to improve the safety of their own vans

Mainly for cost reasons, a lot of builders are on a budget, a 6kg metal box is around £95, you can make one like this for for a few quid, as long as you have an adequate open floor vent and the joints are all sealed correctly, the chances of any gas build up are negligible, and it's better than just having an open bottle in a cupoard.

Many thanks

Thank you, I got the plastic from eBay, unfortunately the company I used don't sell it any more but others are available, a search for "hygenic wall cladding" brings up the better prices, good luck with your build

@@thatdamnmackem Thanks again . I’m watching you. John

Many thanks 👍

Thank you, there's a dipstick born every minute, I deleted the ones with the swearing in them 😂