really helpful, very clear. Do you have a video on adjusting the tension on this particular machine?

Nice work

Pls show how to fix the tread

Nice video on a fabulous machine! My 1923 15-88 and my 15-91 have the same open thread guide as yours, so I think they all come that way.

I have a class 15 Japanese HA-1 clone of your machine. It's super similar. I've been having trouble finding out what the thread path is. This video illuminated for me that I had 2 steps backwards in my thread path. Thanks! I recently rebuilt the tension assembly with a new spring and I was worried I didn't do it right because I'm getting a little bit (just dots) of top thread poking through to the bottom of my fabric no matter what my tension was set at. I think this might be why. Fingers crossed!

Today I've bought a machine like yours. I'm so happy and can't stop to say "wow-what a machine!" thanks for your tutorial that helps me to understand how it works properly

🤩😇

Thank you for this video I have learned so much from you

If you wet the thread just 1/4 an inch above the end of the end it threads like a piece of cake

Wow This is exactly what I have been looking for I have a treadle singer and I got an embroidery foot I want to add free motion embroidery on my bags

Thank you for the video, I just picked the same Singer 15-88 with the motor in the back, and the best part, it only cost me $21.20 in excellent condition.

You are very talented at embroidery. That machine looks like it has been in your family for a while. What a treasure.

Oh my gosh....I LOVE the little air compressor!! Ran across you @rvweekends NEWEST FRIEND! Blessings to you. LUCRETIA

I don't have answers but I am looking forward to watching. Great to meet you. Sherry

I don't know if you have gotten your questions answered but I have the answers for you. I know you probably don't think you need the first few steps i'm going to give you regarding pixelation but trust me, if you want nice results, you'll clean up your image in using IMAGE software first and then you'll import it to SewArt. Take these steps and you'll never use SewArt the same way again. For the reducing pixelation and resizing of the image: 1.Download a GOOD image editing software like GIMP or if you have the funds, photoshop. (I use GIMP, it's pretty much the same as photoshop but it's free. HIGHLY recommend using GIMP) 2. Open up your JPEG image. File>Open image (Whenever you're using a JPG/JPEG image you are ALWAYS going to lose quality and it will become pixelated no matter what you do. I NEVER use the wizard tool or posterizing tool in sew Art. That program is a nightmare but remember it's NOT an image editing software. So in order to clean up the pixelation we need to take a few extra steps) 3. On the menu bar, go to IMAGE> MODE>Indexed 4.On the first line it says "Generate Optimum Palette" and you'll see how many colors are in your image. To the naked eye, it looks like 2. But when you scroll in, you see sooo many other grays and whites that wont register in SewArt so we are going to make it so there are only 2 colors.) 5. Next to "Maximum numbers of colors...Change that number to 2! and click "Convert" -It should look alot more crisper! Now save a new COPY so your original stays intact. !!!IMPORTANT!! If something went wrong, Ctrl-Z it! Ctrl-z is the "undo" button. At any point if something went wrong, Ctrl-Z!!! 6. use the FILL BUCKET with black plaint and make sure "fill similar colors" is selected in the tool options bar. Click on the black part of the design. It should bolden it a little or make it true black. Now do the same for the color white on the white parts of the design. 7. Go back to IMAGE>MODE>and select RGB 8. File>Save as> and save it as whatever you want it to be called. It will now be a GIMP(.xcf) or Photoshop (.pds) NOT a jpg..we will need to export it but first we are going to resize it in GIMP/PS RESIZING: 9. Find and click on the "SCALE TOOL" on the toolbar on the left hand side of the screen. (hover over all the little icons until you see the "Scale tool) Or Press SHIFT+S in GIMP 10. Once you've clicked on the scale tool, hover your mouse over the image and click it. You can either click the boxes in the corners to resize or enter the numbers manually. (I recommend doing the numbers manually so you know what size youre making it for your hoop) 11. In the Scale Tool window you have a 2 sets of numbers, width and height. Next to those boxes on the right hand sign there is a little icon that looks like a little chain. Make sure that chain is connected and not apart. This keeps the ratios equal so you width and height stays proportionate to one another. If youre not sure, click it and if the chain becomes unlinked, click it again to link it again! :) 12. youll see a drop down box that says "px" (it measures in pixels by default but we need inches for our hoop sizes) change it to inches 13. Whichever number is the highest (in your case the WIDTH) you're going to bring that number down to the size of your hoop. The length will automatically be proportionate to the width. So bring that 13.39in down to whatever your hoop size is 14. Click SCALE Now we need to get rid of that extra space because your canvas size is still the same but the image is smaller. 15. Find the "CROP" tool on the toolbar. Click and drag the cropping rectangle right up against the edges of your design. Zoom in to see better! 16. Click ENTER If you messed up, CTRL-Z that bad boy! If it looks good, save your work but clicking "SAVE" Now hopefully you're still reading this. I know it sounds like alot but it's really really simple it just sounds like alot. Regarding the BACKGROUND becoming digitized with your image, you have to draw a border around the white part of the design to give it a barrier. 1. Select the PENCIL tool. (Not the paint brush tool. The paint brush adds that pixelation we got rid on. Pencil tool is nice hard lines) 2. Select your "paint brush" for your pencil tool as either the very first brush or the solid round brush. Select a fairly small size maybe 2 should suffice. 3.zoom in to a white portion of outer edge of the image, make sure the brush color is BLACK and draw along the edge of the white part of the design, connecting black to black. So youre pretty much making a black border but because the design is mostly black, you dont need to go over the whole thing. If you messed up... CTRL-Z it girl! When you feel good about it..SAVE it Now when youre ready to bring it to Sew Art we are going to make a new image as a .PNG image. PNG barely looses quality and it wont get all choppy like a JPG 4. File>Export As> save it as whatever the name is To save it as a .PNG click "select file type by extension" and select PNG. 5. Click "Export" 6. Dont worry about that extra window with those options, just click "EXPORT" again NOW go to SewArt and open your new .PNG image rather than your jpeg You should see a substantial difference. and now that there is a seperation between the design and back ground, you can fill the background in Sew Art a different color and draw that black border you drew back to white and it will still be separate I know it seems like alot but it's really simple once you get to know it. The possibilities are endless with GIMP and SewArt. One more important thing and i promise i'm done! The above steps can be used on ANY image you want. But when you are using it on an image with multiple colors, I can't emphasize the importance of step 7! Make you you change the mode BACK to RGB before continuing. And you can do it over and over again to clean things up. I don't think i've ever written such a long comment before but this is one i can actually answer!! Good luck!!!!!

Nice 👍🏼

Great review and feature video. I think Suoaki makes good products. I recommend their 100W foldable panels. I did a detailed video on those panels and their S370 (322Wh) power station. I have been using both of those for more than 6 months now and they have been great. Thanks again for a great video, looking forward to more videos in this channel.

Review: I have been using this for a few months now & I really love this little thing. Fully charged I can get 2 full days of multiple charges on my cell phone and tablet (both have old batteries & require frequent recharging throughout the day). I have an old MacBook Pro that is a power hungry beast and I can fully charge it once when this device has a full charge on it. I have used it with my Foredom flexshaft tool that I use to do woodcarving. That has a really powerful 1800 amp motor & I can use it with the Suaoki 200 for about 5 hours continuously. I used it with my woodburning tool for about 6 hours with almost no depletion of power in the battery on this. And finally, I have used it with my 1931 Singer sewing machine which still sports some of its original electrical wiring which is not safe or efficient. But I did about 4 hours of freemotion embroidery with only 2 bars of power depletion. Very Awesome! Charging this with the wall plug in takes just about 3 hours. Charging this on the Suaoki 50w solar panel that I have does take a full day of sun up here in the desert. I would love to upgrade to a 100w panel & shorten that charging time.

So nice! Thank you for sharing! I enjoy watching your videos and I like your content! Keep it up! Stay positive and healthy! Thank you for connecting with me!

I have that same thing happen with the first thread guide. Gets the thread caught in the light. Good fix.

Very nice work! Thumbs up from Dublin (Ireland) ! :)

Great video, this is something I have to try, I watched the video on you threading the machine, very easy to understand.

Thank you so much for this!!

Glad to see LED bulbs becoming more commonplace, and for older eyes they are sooooo nice and bright. ❤️

Awesome Foot Control , It should give you more Sewing control, Glenn 💕

That’s a badass little compressor!

This looks awesome!!! ❤️❤️❤️😘